I Miss George!

I think he is happy with Norm and Carrie though!

Happy New Year

I had a lovely Christmas here in Liverpool with my Aunt and Uncle, cousins and their children (second cousins once removed...?)and, though I really missed my kids and my Mum, managed to enjoy myself immensely. On Christmas Eve, I went to Chorley where my cousin Ruth lives, to sing carols in the village square. It was pouring rain but we had a lovely time anyway, ending up in the pub across the road afterwards. It always amazes me to see children welcome in the pubs. It was packed with people who all know each other, toasting to a happy Christmas. Later, I walked to midnight mass, which felt familiar and I really enjoyed the organ and choir in the church, putting me firmly into the spirit of Christmas. A few weeks ago, I asked if I could decorate the Christmas table so when my cousin's wife Maddy showed an interest as well, we put our creative heads together and designed a table even Martha couldn't pull off! It was fabulous!. The day unfolded much as any other Christmas with gifts, good food, visits from family and, of course, the turkey dinner with all the trimmings. I felt warmly welcomed by all my family and so appreciated being included.

So it seems that it is not possible to be spontaneous when it comes to international travel these days. I decided to go to India for a couple of months and applied for a visa with confidence that I, as a Canadian citizen, would be granted one without any trouble. Not so. Apparently they want me to apply from my home country. I am in the process of applying for my British passport which would make it easier. Since my parents were both born in the UK, i am already a citizen but need a passport to make it official. It takes 6 weeks to be processed and then I have to have an interview which means I\'m grounded here in England for the next six weeks. It\'s too bad I didn\'t think of this before I left home! But I didn\'t know I would be travelling for such a long time. Anyway, it is totally worth it to see it through while I\'m here and will just have to find something to do while I wait. I can think of a few: walking the Coast-to-Coast, or the West Highland Way, both would be great.....in the spring! It will be cold and probably rainy but I\'d like to do it nevertheless. I would also like to spend a good week in London and see all the sights as it really doesn't matter what the weather is like when you're in a museum or art gallery. Anyway, I am headed to Ireland next week to meet up with two Camino buddies (SO excited) and will send the paperwork after that as I need my passport to go to Ireland. So, instead of India, I will probably do more of east Africa and the middle east.

My great Aunty Margy passed away today. After three weeks of gradually slipping away, she died peacefully in her sleep and I am thankful that she did not suffer. Even so, it is sad when a loved one dies and I see from my relatives who knew her their whole lives, that her passing is hard for them. I visited her only yesterday and wondered when her time would come. She had a great, long life and was surrounded by so many people in her final days. I think that is how it should be. At age 96, she was the last remaining member of that generation on my mother's side, marking the end of an era. May she rest in peace.

Tomorrow I am off to Chorely with my cousin Rachel and her two boys to spend New Years' Eve with my cousin Ruth, and her family. It's beautiful there, typical English countryside and quaint village life. We will have a good time I'm sure, playing games and bringing in the new year!
I wish everyone a happy and safe New Year, sending much love from across the pond!
Xoxoxoxox

Recipe

Here is a truly English recipe:
ENJOY!!!!

Chocolate Guiness Cake

1 c Guinness stout
5 oz unsalted butter
3/4 c unsweetened cocoa powder
2 c superfine sugar (caster sugar)
2 eggs
2 c all purpose sugar
3/4 c sour cream
1 tbsp vanilla extract
2-1/2 tsp baking soda

Topping:
8 oz cream cheese
1-1/4 cups icing sugar
1/2 c double cream

Method:
Preheat oven to 350*, line and butter a 9" springform pan.
Pour the Guinness into a large wide saucepan, add the butter in slices and heat until butter is melted, at which time you should whisk in the cocoa and sugar.
Beat the sour cream with the eggs and vanilla and then pour into the pan with the beer and butter, finally whisk in the flour and b.soda. Pour the batter into the greased pan and bake for 45min to an hour.
Leave to cool completely in the pan on a cooling rack; it will be a damp cake.
When the cake is cold, sit it on a flat plate ready to cover with the topping.
Lightly whip the cream cheese until smooth, sift the icing sugar and mix with the cream cheese in a processor or by hand. Add the cream and beat again until the mixture is spreadable consistency. Ice the top of the cake so that it looks like the frothy top of the famous pint!

Christmas Eve

Twas the night before Christmas....

Here I am in Liverpool, celebrating Christmas with my Aunts, uncle, and cousins. We have a full house here at Sue and Terry's with their eldest son Will and his wife Anne along with their two little boys, Arty and Harry; Tim and Maddy from NYC. It's lovely to be able to spend time with them as I have not seen them in years and have never had the opportunity to get to know them growing up. My other Aunt, Angela lives here as well and has four daughters - Gemma, Mel (married to Phil, 4 children - Molly, Oliver, Lily, and George), Rachel, who lives in Ethiopia with her husband Al and their two children Theo and Nathanial; Ruth, married to Roland and they have three children - Mabel, Barney, and Monty and they live in Chorley, about 45 min from Liverpool. I spent a lovely evening in Chorley with Ruth, Roland and Rachel and all the kids where we sang carols in the village square and heard the Christmas story. Even though it was raining heavily, it was picturesque and brought the meaning of Christmas alive. A couple of pints in the local pub, children in tow, and then back to Ruth's for tea. I have an hour before midnight Mass so thought I'd try and catch up on my blog.

Not too much happening other than planning next travels and organising the paperwork for my British passport. I found out that technically I am a british citizen because my parents were both born here but I need to have proof as in citizenship papers or a passport. Once I have a passport, I can travel freely within the European Union using my UK passport, and I can live and work here without restrictions. I'm not saying I will do that, but it's nice to have the option. Anyway, it means I'm grounded for a few weeks while everything is in process. I'll travel around Britain, seeing some of the places I have not yet seen and visit people I haven't seen in a long time. God knows I have enough relatives here so that should keep me busy for a while.

Well, it is just after 11:00 and I must get ready for Midnight Mass. I think of all my friends and loved ones with much love and wish everyone a very Happy Christmas.

Jena xoxoxoxox

The Lake District - Take one

My Aunt and Uncle and I made an attempt to get away before the big Christmas rush set in. We decided to go to the Lake District, a mountainous region in northwest England. I have heard of it many times though have never been and since I am missing my walking, thought it would be a great place to go as it is known as a great walking area.I We settled on Penrith Lake in Cumbria and a B&B called Johnby Hall near the little hamlet of Greystoke. Johnby Hall is a 14th century Tudor manor house currently being run by Henry and Anna Howard (I had to wonder, given the age of the house, if he is a descendent of THE Howards...) The weather was cold, rainy and miserable so we stopped on the way in a place called Hawkeshead, a small village where they were having a christmas fair. Despite the weather, there was a good turn out of people and we had a great time wandering around the quaint little shops and tasting the locally made cheese, sausages, and meat pies. When the rain got really bad, we popped into the pub to warm up. I loved this little village and understood why Beatrix Potter was so inspired there (it is where she lived and wrote her lovely books).
After getting lost, we finally arrived at Johnby Hall where we were warmly greeted by our host Henry. There were two studios, one in the main house and one in an outbuilding on the property. After getting settled, we headed down the the local pub for a hearty meal and some wine (I won't say how much). It was a clear, beautiful night and as I walked across the driveway to my bed, I tried to ignore how cold it was...and the snow that was beginning to pile up on the ground! I awoke to blue sky and, though it was cold, I was determined to go for a good long walk. Terry and I had a plan; a 7 mile walk near the lake and we were prepared with good boots, warm clothes, and a flask of hot something. We breakfasted in the Great Hall and it was drafty and cold. Fortunately for me, I was having a hot flash and sat there in my t-shirt much to the horror of our hosts. It was a delicious full English breakfast, the meat and eggs made from their own hand reared, free range pigs and chickens. Whilst we were eating, Sue got a call from her sister Angela saying that Aunty Margy was not doing well at all. After some discussion, we decided to go back to Liverpool but would try and do a short walk before we left. When we went outside, the weather had turned completely and there was a veritable blizzard! We packed up, apologised to our host and made the treacherous drive back to the city.
I'm determined there will be a "Take Two"!
(did you notice that I am beginning to use the word "whilst"? And my new swear word is "bollocks". I may pass the citizenship test after all!)

My Great Auntie Margy

My great Auntie Margy, my mother's mother's sister, is 96 years old. She has been living on her own in her little house in Maghull until only about a year ago. She is a lovely, smart, feisty old gal and though I have only seen her when I've visited England, and once when she came to Canada many years ago, she is someone I love and respect. I find it so heartwarming to see how loved she is by the family here. Both my aunts are devoted to her as she is the last remaining of her generation still living, and the closest relative to my grandmother. She never married or had children but lived a rich and purposeful life. As her health begins to fail, she has made it clear she does not want to go into hospital and it seems that her time is near. I am so thankful that she is surrounded by many family members who visit her regularly - I think she has a visitor every day - and in her final days, she will be loved greatly. It doesn't matter the age, when someone you love passes, it is very sad. I know she will feel loved and honoured no matter when her time comes, but most of all, she will not be alone. Having said that, she is pretty strong and may rally again, but she tells us that she has told Our Lady of Lourdes that she is ready anytime.
God bless her!

Serendipity

So I'm standing on the platform in Kent, getting last minute instructions to Euston from Nineeta's sister Rada, and a woman standing next to us had an extra London underground map which she generously gave me. I said goodbye to Rada and this woman and I got chatting. She asked me where I was from, where I was travelling to and I told her I want to go to India, specifically, Calcutta. Turns out  she was born there and knows of the place I want to volunteer at, as well as the sister who runs the place! She also told me that she is married to a Nigerian who lives in Lagos and spends her time between Calcutta and Nigeria. Needless to say, we had plenty to talk about on the short journey to London. We have exchanged details and will keep in touch as I make my plans to go there. It so happens she will be there at the same time as I hope to be and has offered to help me find a place to stay and get settled. It absolutely astonishes me when these things happen. I mean, really! I was supposed to catch the train before this one but ran late and ended up on the the next one. I continue to trust that things will unfold for me as they are meant to and all my needs will be met.
Wow.

This weekend I am off to the Lake District for a few days of walking and enjoying the verdant green lush beauty of the area. It may rain the whole time, but I have the gear and am really looking forward to walking again. It's weird how much I miss it after my Camino....it's a form of meditation that seems to really ground me.
I am still trying to upload photos from my iPad so will try one now....

London Revisited

Back in the crazy, busy, crowded, expensive, exciting city of London! It's a love-hate thing with me I think. I love London for all it's history and vibrancy, but let's face it, I'm a small town girl and totally out of my comfort zone here. Having said that, it would be fun to live here for a short time and really "do" London. 
The purpose of this few days in London was to connect with a colleague from my Cowans days, Nineeta Drepal, CEO of the buying group we belong to. She and I are the same age and have always connected. Now that I am no longer in the business, we can be friends! Our original idea was to spend our 50th birthday year together at some point. For ten days, we are the same age (she was born in 1960). The idea of Barcelona came up when I told her of my plans to do the Camino. As it turned out, we couldn't get together until now and it has worked out just great. She is one of those totally amazing women that I aspire to emulate....someday! It has been SO great to seeing her again, and meeting some of her family was an added privilege. We are talking bout doing a trip together, though she tells me it will have to be a "comfort" trip. None of this traipsing around with a backpack for her!! I was also able to connect with my lovely friend Laura, whom I met on the Morocco trip. We met at Oxford Circus tube station and found a pub where we had a pint and our final gab/giggle session! It was amazing to see her again so soon and I will miss her terribly.
So, back to Liverpool today and where I will sort myself out again for further travel. I am starting to get questioned in immigration now as they want to know where I'm going, how long I'm staying, how I am supporting myself and whether I have a relationship in England. Ha!! I wish!! I am in the process of applying for my British citizenship so hopefully that will help. As I've said, I'd like to go to India for a few months but if that doesn't work out, I would like to do more of the Middle East. I really love Africa and could just remain there forever! I also met a wonderful couple, Marina and Les from New Zealand who I adore and would really love to visit as well. So many choices!  Anyway, I know that once I take my head out of the proverbial sand, reality will sink in and I'll have to go home. In the meantime, I'm happy to just keep on trekking!

Marrakech

Last stop before leaving this amazing country. We spent our last two nights in this bustling, colourful city. We arrived at our hotel and then walked about 30 minutes to enjoy dinner at the infamous Djemaa el Fna, the ultimate el fresco experience. Every night the main square comes alive with endless food vendors and rows of tables waiting for you to sit down and be enveloped in the tastes of Marrkech. This was an unforgettable introduction to bustling City where we  wandered though the crowds hoping to see the singers, drummers, dancers, snake charmers, fortune tellers, tooth pullers, storytellers, jugglers and even old medicine men, who all make up what has been dubbed the 'greatest spectacle on earth'. I did not see any of this, but did have a monkey hop onto my shoulders! Marrakech is a feast for the senses. Enticed by the alluring scents and brilliant colours of the spice markets, the sounds of the musicians, the rich folds of fabrics, and delectable foods, I was totally caught up in the energy of this vibrant city.
The next day, three of us decided to hire a guide who took us on a walking tour of the city. We explored the amazing Medina and the seemingly endless mosaic of souqs. Each is devoted to a separate trade: pottery, woodwork, copper, leather, carpets and spices. 
The monuments of Marrakech are numerous and range from the well-known Koutoubia Mosque and its superb minaret, the Palais Bahia, a superb example of Muslim architecture, and the ruins of the Palais Badi, reputedly one of the most beautiful palaces in the world in its time. The Saadian tombs are a recently uncovered gem of the Medina. Our guide, Abdul, was a delightful young man and we enjoyed our tour immensely. 
The last dinner was on a rooftop at a fancy restaurant where we ate lamb tagine and couscous for the last time. The next day, most of us were catching flights for further travel, or going home. I really enjoyed this group of people and our guide Aziz who became very dear to us all over the 15 days. I miss them all and will never forget my amazing experience in Morocco

Essaouira

We left the mountains behind and headed towards the windswept Atlantic Coast and the old fishing town of Essaouira.
The name Essaouira means image, which is appropriate since it's such a picturesque town. Its charm is undeniable - within the stone ramparts you'll find whitewashed houses with bright blue shutters, art galleries and wood workshops. This laidback artists' town is a former Portuguese trading colony and was once home to sizeable British and Jewish populations. The town faces a group of rocky islands - called the Mogador - and is surrounded by an expanse of sandy beaches and dunes. Really beautiful, but more importantly...really warm!!!
It's still a busy fishing port and its pretty harbour is filled with colourful boats which go out early every morning for the day's catch. Visitors who have been seduced by its charms include Orson Welles and Jimi Hendrix, who (according to local legend) spent much of his time here in the 1960s. More recently, filmmaker Ridley Scott chose the ramparts as an important location for his film, Kingdom of Heaven.
We had a local guide who took us on a walking tour through the old Medina, Jewish mellah, port and skala (sea wall). 
We stayed in a wonderfully restored riad - a traditional nobleman's house unique to Morocco - an escape from the hustle and bustle of the Medina. Our riad had a central courtyard and was beautifully designed and decorated in traditional Moroccan style.
Everything in the small centre was within walking distance and the beach was beautiful and clean.  It was wonderful to be by the sea again. I took the time to browse the shops and art galleries that make this little town a particularly pleasant place to be. It has a growing reputation for its unique art including its burled Thuya wood - delicately formed and inlaid in tiny shops, which are built into the thick walls of the Portuguese ramparts. The scent from the oils used to polish the richly coloured wood permeates the air and made for a pleasant change from the meat markets with sheeps heads, entrails, and God knows what, filling the streets!
Our guide Aziz took us to a very fun restaurant for dinner. It was Laura's birthday and we were in the mood to celebrate. The food was amazing - fresh seafood caught that day and traditional live music to dine to. We all ended up dancing until midnight and then walked back to the hotel to have birthday cake. It was one of the best nights of the trip, and, I'm sure, one of Laura's most memorable birthdays!

Aroumd

Today we journey'd over the Tizi n'Tichka Pass (2260 m) to the scenic Toubkal National Park. The route is an epic journey as we bid farewell to the landscape of the Sahara, passing over the desolate high altitudes of the Tichka, before traversing some stunning lush valleys and winding our way to the end of the road at Imlil.
We stored our main luggage and took our daypacks up to the peaceful  village of Aroumd where we spent the night. We had the option of putting our bags on to pack mules, but i felt i needed the extra exercise so decided to carry mine the one hour climb. Plus, I just feel sorry for the mules as it always seems like they carry way too much weight. 
A family-run mountain home (gite) was our accommodation for the night and perched on a great rocky outcrop we had an incredible view of North Africa's highest peak - Mount Toubkal. Facilities at the mountain gite were shared - both the bathroom and sleeping arrangements - but it was quite comfortable. The temperature had dropped dramatically, down to -4, and even though there was a fire in the common area, I just couldn't get warm. Eventually, I just went to bed, slept in my clothes and piled as many blankets as I could on top of me. My new room mate is a lovely girl from Australia named Laura. We have become great friends over the past 10 days and spend much of our time giggling and being silly together. She is a breath of fresh air.
The next morning we were led on a four hour hike up the mountain to an ancient shrine. It was for me, another highlight. The hike was fairly steep and rocky but it was a beautiful sunny day and we managed to stay quite warm. A few people opted out of the hike so we were a small group of only 6. As we approached the shrine, we came into the snow, making it a little treacherous to walk, but as usual, well worth the effort. The shrine is only about halfway up, the rest being much more challenging and with more snow and ice. With the sunshine it was stunning, and I wished I could have gone on to the top. We met a group of Polish people who were staying overnight at the top and I was so envious!
We had sweet mint tea to fortify ourselves for the descent down and kept ourselves amused by singing musicals all the way down. Laura can sing like an angel and Les and I did our best to keep up to her. (Les, from New Zealand, is a big burly steer farmer, self proclaimed redneck, and I was most surprised at his affection for singing the songs from the Sound of Music!)
Once we arrived back at the gite, we were served an amazing lunch on the terrace in the sunshine. Still quite chilly, but the views of the mountains in front of us made us forget the temperature altogether. After lunch, we packed up and made our way back down to the village and our patiently waiting driver Hassan.

Ait Benhaddou

We left the Gorges region and traveled further south towards Ait Benhaddou  This scenic drive offers a glimpse of times gone by via the ruins of ancient kasbahs, former colonial military outposts, austere mountains, wide-open spaces, and valleys of palm trees and irrigated fields. En route we stopped for lunch in Ouarzazate, the film capital of Morocco.
We had a short visit to Project Handicapped Horizon, an organisation dedicated to the rehabilitation, health and empowerment of people with disabilities. This project is supported through The Intrepid Foundation.
Centuries ago, Ait Benhaddou was an important stop for the caravans passing through as they carried salt across the Sahara, returning with gold, ivory and slaves. Today, its grand kasbah is still one of the most beautiful in all of Morocco and a World Heritage site. This fortified village is a fine example of clay architecture and is also famous for its role on the silver screen, featuring in numerous films such as Lawrence of Arabia, The Jewel of the Nile and Gladiator. We walked up through the Kasbah, lined with the usual shops selling their colourful wares of scarves, trinkets, carpets and jellabas.
At our guesthouse we had a  cooking demonstration of Morocco's most famous cuisine: couscous and tajine. We dined and went to bed fairly early as it was still quite cold and bed is the only place to stay warm! In the morning, we had breakfast on the rooftop patio in the morning sun. It was lovely and warm and we were treated to a boiled egg, yogurt, oranges, bread and coffee, a departure from the usual bread or Moroccan style pancakes.
Back into the van and on our way to the High Atlas mountains. We have had a lot of time on the bus lately, which has bonded us as a group and we have had many laughs and good chats with each other.I am really enjoying my new friends!

The Hammam Experience

As I reread the last few posts, I realise how inadequate I am sometimes in describing my experiences. I find I am always rushing at the end of a day to get the facts down before I forget them, so I apologise for the lack of imagination.
After the hike in the mountains and the amazing lunch, we were given the opportunity to partake in a traditional Hammam steam bath, Moroccan style. We weren't given a whole lot of information other than it takes place in a steam room with a bunch of other women and you are given a scrub/massage with black soap. I was completely unprepared for what took place and I will do my best to describe it adequately. Bear in mind, it will be a bit graphic!
Upon entering, we were given a scrub mitt and a blob of black soap which looks a lot like automotive grease. We were told to take off our clothes, leaving on our bottoms, and were led into the steam room, a bare tiled room. It was warm and steamy and we sat down on the floor and awaited further instruction, surrounded by a number of equally unclad women of all shapes and sizes. I was very aware of our western discomfort with nudity. A large woman with the most enormous breasts I've ever seen, brought a bucket of hot water and proceeded to douse us, one at a time and then instructed us in Berber (and hand motions) to rub the soap on our bodies. She walked away, leaving us to it and I thought to myself that it seemed a bit lacking as I was expecting some sort of massage. Since the room was completely bare, we were left with nothing to look at except each other and the other naked women in the room who seemed efficient in their ablutions, scrubbing their skin and throwing water from buckets on themselves or each other. After a time, we decided we should do the same and we bashfully scrubbed each others' backs, not saying much. Eventually, big breasted woman came back and directed us over to the other side of the room, each of us in front of a large bucket of hot water. She began with Marina, scrubbing her arm and moving on to every part of her body, scrubbing with great vigor. She was quite rough and looking at Marina's face, I was guessing it wasn't terribly pleasant! At one point she roughly pushed her into a lying down position and proceeded to scrub every part of her body, lifting and pulling limbs as necessary. This went on for a good 20 minutes as we all sat there, trying not to watch, but knowing we were next. Since there were 6 of us, she left the room to bring in reinforcements and it was my turn. I felt like my skin was being ripped off, and indeed, it was. This was exfoliation taken to the extreme! Eventually, after she covered every inch of me, I got to rinse off with the steaming hot water. It felt amazing, but even better, my skin has never felt so soft. Finally, we emerged, squeaky clean and ready for a meal....and a large drink!

Todra Gorges

Another amazing experience. After the long drive out of the desert, we headed to the mountains and the birthplace of our young tour guide, Aziz. This was a very special experience as we were honoured guests at Aziz's family home, a small village in the low Atlas mountains called Todra Gorges. We got settled into our hotel, a lovely, quiet place nestled at the foot of the rocky mountains, towering majestically above. Again, the friendly hospitality of the Moroccans proved to make our stay more than enjoyable. We were served more of the delicious cuisine, all made with the local produce and spices. After dinner, as is customary, the drums come out and we join our hosts for music and dancing and sometimes Sheesha. I love this about the Moroccans...everyone is welcome no matter where you come from. It is also a way to keep warm as it was very cold and they do not have heating in the rooms so it makes sense to gather together and keep warm. It was a pretty early night as we would be hiking to the top of the mountain the next day. When we awoke, it was to pouring rain. I was pretty determined to carry on with the hike, hoping that the rain would let up. Only half of the group decided to go and I was very glad indeed that I persevered as it turned out to be an amazing experience. It took about 2 hours to get up to the top, the path was rocky and fairly steep with little vegetatn.  Atthe top, we visited a nomadic family who live in caves, subsisting in the harsh environment of the mountains.  They graciously made us tea, this time made from lemon sage which grows in abundance on the rocky mountainside. It is difficult to imagine living this way, but is an example of people who live simply and seem happy in this lifestyle. The family consisted of a father, age 72, with two wives and 12 children. They tend goats and chickens and when they need money, they go into the Market and sell a goat or trade some of their handwork for produce or goods.
We made our way down the steep and rocky path and to the home of Aziz' family to be hosted for lunch. They run a small restaurant with the best food I have had in Morocco! It was squash soup, Moroccan pizza accompanied by about 8 little side dishes of salsa, marinated veggies, lentils, flava beans, and olives. Absolutely incredible. Aziz has one sister and 8 brothers, a loving generous mother and father and we were warmly welcomed and treated with great respect. I was invited to return someday and stay at their home.
The next activity.....a traditional Hammam!

The Sahara Desert

This few days I think will be the highlight of my trip to Morocco. When I decided to make Morocco my next trip, it was to experience the sandunes in the desert and for the opportunity to be in the high Atlas mountains and the past few days have delivered in spades! I'll start with the long drive from Fez to the edge of the desert. As we got closer to it, the landscape changed dramatically and it was a bit like driving through the prairies; not much to see and it seemed endless. At last we could see the reddish brown sand dunes off in the distance, and I began to feel the anticipation of a truly amazing experience. The plan was to park the van at an Auberge at the edge of the dunes and ride by camel about an hour to our campsite. We packed our sleeping bags and only the most necessary items like toothbrush and a change of clothes. There were no facilities so we wouldn't be able to bathe or wash. I have to admit, I was pretty excited at the idea of riding a camel. I know it sounds touristy, but I knew that we were going to a very rustic place, surrounded only by sand dunes and the sky, and that this would be something I will likely only experience once in my lifetime.
Getting onto the camel was interesting. The shepherds make them go down onto the ground (I love the way they fold their legs up underneath). You mount the camel and when they get up, they go up on their back legs first, thrusting you forward and then up on their front legs, thrusting you back! I thought I was going to fall off, but it seems they know what to do. It was about 3pm by the time we started off to the camp, making our way slowly into the dunes. In the hour it took to get there, I was enchanted by the beauty of the red sand, the curves and shapes of the dunes, made more interesting by the changing light and shadow. By the time we got to the camp, it was dusk and we dismounted our trusty steeds, where they gracefully settled themselves for the night.
The camp was indeed rustic. It was very cold and we were greeted by the men who were to cook for us that evening, welcoming us with a cup of Moroccan tea. It was pretty cold so we huddled around the table, sitting on mats around a low table. We were served chicken tajine and fruit, and of course, the delicious mint tea we have become so accustomed to. As in Canada, everything tastes so good when you are camping and you are ravenous! After dinner, we took the blankets off our camels to wrap ourselves in while we sat in the total darkness under a clear sky resplendent with bright stars. As is customary in Morocco, the drums came out and both the shepherds and the camp caretakers sat with us and we played and sang together under the night sky. At some point, I have no idea of the time, we made our way into our tents and went to sleep. It was magic. We arose at early light, in time to climb to the top of a sand dune to watch the sunrise, and then mounted our camels and made the journey back to the edge of the desert for breakfast at the auberge where we left our van.
Next stop, the High Atlas mountains....

Fez

Our tour guide today was a woman named Hakim. She is well known, and seemingly well loved in Fez. Apparently there are very few female guides here. She has a good sense of humor and is very knowledgeable. She and I had a good conversation at one point and she asked me if I was a famous person in Canada. I didn't dare ask her why she thought that!
First stop was the Royal Palace: 14th century, 82 hectares with huge rooms, shops, swimming pools and golf course. The entrance has 7 doors, seven floors, seven skies all with some significance to the seven days of the week.
The city of Fez was built in the 8th century and the medina is the largest imperial city in Morocco. It has the oldest university in the world. The medina is a veritable maze of streets, all interwoven and absolutely no pattern to the layout. It would be impossible to go into it without getting lost if you didn't have a proper guide! Inside, we visited a metalwork shop, a food market, Koramic school - no longer in use, a blacksmith, textile factory where they weave scarves and tablecloths, and a mosque. Later on we went to a ceramic factory and saw the entire process of how tiles are produced - from the clay to the wheels to the painting with dyes made from all natural ingredients: aloe Vera, saffron, indigo, henna, poppy flower, mint; to the kiln and finally, the finished products. It is all done by hand and the people who work there apprentice for 5-7 years before they become master craftsmen. 
We drove up to the military site where there is a spectacular lookout point over the entire Medina. The entrance to the medina is a magnificent tiled archway, the outside in all blues signifying the national colour of Fez, and the inside in green, the colour of peace. We learned that 98% of the population is Muslim, almost all practicing.
We then visited a carpet factory inside the medina which was situated in one of the older homes in the city. Upstairs we saw one of the carpet weavers who painstakingly weave the carpets by hand. There are 1500+ members of the cooperative and the bigger ones take 8-10 months to complete. They are made from wool, cotton and silk. I learned that silk also comes from the aloe vera plant!
Lastly, we visited a tannery where they cure the skins of camel, goat, sheep, and cow to make clothing, purses, bags etc. I cannot begin to describe the smell of this place! 
We had lunch at a restaurant in the Medina and it was one of the best ones yet! I can't get over the incredible flavours of the Moroccan cuisine. One of the specialties of Fez is pastille, which is meat pie. Very tasty.
Tomorrow we head for the Atlas Mountains. The weather has been quite cool and will get even cooler in the mountains. I hope I will be warm enough.

Rabat, Meknes

We began the morning touring the 3rd largest mosque in the world - Hassan II Mosque. It was built in the early eighties and took 5 years and 30,000 labourers to build. Many modern day technologies including a high tech speaker system, sliding roof to let in light and air, and heated marble floors. The titanium doors weigh several tons and open electronically. At 200meters high, the minaret is the highest in the world. Apart from the Italian chandeliers, all the materials are Moroccan. Inside the mosque, I was overwhelmed with the sheer size of it - able to hold 80,000 people! I couldn't help but wonder what would you do if you really needed to go to the loo!? It truly was an amazing sight with it's polished marble floors and intricate hand made tile work.
Afterwards we got the train to Rabat, the Capitol city of Morocco, where we toured the Market and the centuries old Medina before moving on to Meknes, a 10th century city founded by the Berber tribe of the Meknassis. We arrived in time to eat dinner and get to our hotel to sleep before spending the day there. 
The first stop was the Hari es-Souani, the granaries that the King built for his 12,000 horses over a thousand years ago. It is basically in ruins except for the first few vaults which have been restored. I find it fascinating that they could control temperature, direct and regulate the flow of water in these massive buildings so long ago without any technology and using the power of animals and rudimentary tools. After that we walked to the mausoleum of Moulay Ismail. Beautiful and peaceful.
Another wander through a very large, very busy, and very colourful market where I bought some frankincense and amber. The meat section was interesting and made me swear off meat until lunchtime where I ate a camel burger. When in Rome....as they say!
After lunch, which was delicious by the way, we took a bus to the Roman ruins on the way to our next stop, Fez. It is hard to fathom seeing floor tiles in intricate patterns that have been uncovered after 2000 years. Only a third of the ancient city has been unearthed and restored (started in the 1920's) but there are plans to uncover and rebuild the rest of it in time. Truly amazing.
The food in Morocco is sensational. The Moroccans really know what they're doing with spices. The tangines are fragrant with spices, tender meat and often cooked with figs, vegetables and couscous. A highlight today was eating a fresh pomegranate.
Just heading out to eat dinner. I'm told that lambs head is on the menu.....!

Morocco

Well, I made it to my destination and what a crazy day it was! Early start of 4:15 to get to the airport by 5:30, flight at 7:45. All good. I arrived in Marrakech on time and got through customs no problem. Got to an ATM and found the bus to take me to the train station. So far so good. I met a young man from USA who was also going to the train stn and even taking the same train but going to Rabat. As it happens when travelling, you become fast friends very quickly. When we got to the train stn, it was just before 1:00 and I thought I would have just enough time to get my ticket and get on the train. We were met by huge crowds lining up for tickets and the kind of chaos one finds in a busy, economically challenged city such as this.we got in line, knowing the next train was scheduled for 3:00 and I hoped it would be on time. In the line up, we met another young man from Belgium who was stopping in Casablanca and who could speak French as well. I decided to stick to him like glue. Turns out he was a very nice guy and he helped me out enormously. At 2:15, a porter started yelling and whistling for everyone to line up for the train. I thought this was a little odd but along came the train and Jerome, who has been here for a month, told me to get up to the front and push my way in. There were hundreds of people on the platform and I was feeling a little claustrophobic. There are compartments that hold 8 people comfortably but we had 12 in ours. The windows wouldn't open and it was very hot and stuffy. People kept crowding onto the train and here we waited until 3:00 when we finally started moving. It was interesting to see the Moroccans dressed in wool coats and many women in full burkas. I couldn't imagine how hot they must have been.
It became clear that I was not going to make it to my hotel by 6:00 so I asked Jerome to call my hotel (at £1.75 per min!) and leave a message for my tour leader that I would be late. We didn't get to Casablanca until nearly 8:00 and it was absolute madness getting off the train! There were people and baggage everywhere, even in the aisles and we had to step over them with our bags, shoving our way through out into the dark platform. I needed to negotiate the petit cab and again, Jerome came to the rescue. It was insane! No seatbelts and I prayed I would make it to the hotel alive. Jerome and I parted ways amidst the chaos and noise, having exchanged emails on the train. We lost Mike on the platform getting on the train and didn't see him again.
When I got to my hotel, everyone had gone out for dinner but the host didn't know where. He gave me directions to a nice restaurant "around the corner". I set out, acutely aware that I was a very White woman walking alone in a busy city and felt for the first time on my travels, a little nervous. A lot of men tried to speak to me but I ignored them and did not make eye contact, almost turning around, but I had not eaten since a coffee and yogurt at 6:30 this morning and was starving. I kept going and ended up at a really nice quiet place where I had a beautiful lamb and couscous dinner. The waiter spoke French and kept coming back to my table and kept repeating the words "après" and "bise". I finally figured it out - he wanted to meet me afterwards and kiss. Needless to say, I got the hell out of there fast and he followed me to my hotel - I think to make me think he was getting me there safely. I finally shook him off and got to my hotel safely. Eventually I met my team, briefly, and am now in my room, safe and sound and ready to explore Marrakech in the daytime!

More travels

I left Bournemouth today and made my way to Gatwick by bus and then train. Staying at a funky little hotel about 20 minutes away. When I say funky, I mean a bit weird. When I booked it online - looking for something really cheap but close to the airport with wifi and a restaurant - I got that, but the restaurant is a bar and the wifi can only be used in the bar or the lobby. I was looking forward to getting into bed and sending a bunch of emails and order room service. Oh well, it will have to do. I have to get the 5am shuttle as I have an early flight and easy jet can have a very long check in as they tend to check in all the flights from one desk.
Travelling alone again, I am looking forward to the next adventure and who I shall meet. I am a bit nervous as I have to fly to Marakech and then get a train to Casablanca where my tour starts. I need to get money at the airport in Marakech (it is not possible to obtain MAD money before arriving in the country). That will be the first challenge. Then I have to get a cab, negotiate the fare before I get in, and get to the train station where there are trains to Casablanca every hour. It should take about 3 hours and then another cab to the hotel hopefully before 6pm where I will meet my group. I hope they are as fun and nice as the group I travelled in Italy with 5 years ago.
Wish me luck!!
Keep reading, next post from Morocco!

11.11.11.

This just has to be an auspicious day. I can't help but think that there is something to it when the numbers line up like this. I wish I knew more about numerology, or astrology because I think it probably has some significance. For me, it is another day of possible adventure. My last day in Bournemouth and hoping for a long walk on the beach again. I have now been in England nearly 4 weeks (is it really 4 weeks since I left Spain??) and am starting to feel like I live here. What I love is the anonimity I experience every day. I walk down the street and know not a single soul. For some reason I like this. You can't beat the dairy here - cheese especially. Sarah, you would be in heaven, the aged white cheddar is to die for! I try not to eat it too often because, well, it's just not good to do that. This way, I can savour it when I do have it. I have mentioned my addiction to tea already and I indulge in that (as my aunt Susie and uncle Terry can attest to) as often as I like. I had a cadbury chocolate in Liverpool - another thing that seems to taste better than anywhere else, as do the toffees, which I have yet to indulge in. I love the old churches, cobblestones, narrow streets, and earthy, lush green that is evident only as a result of the rain and dampness. Oddly enough, it hasn't rained much but I'm told it will....
I am looking forward to my trip to Morocco. I am carrying my pack with only a few things - I now know how to pack light. It was more difficult to pack for this trip as I needed to have both warm things for my time in England as well as cool clothes for my trip to Morocco - all fitting into my little orange pack. I need to take a sleeping bag too which takes up a bit of space. I recently bought an iPad (I now understand the merits of it) and will try and write as often as I can depending of the availability of WiFi. I have just uploaded all my photos and will post them to FB in the next day or two. I continue to ache for Spain so have applied to volunteer for a week in Madrid teaching conversational English. It sounds great - they put you up in a nice place and you just have to have conversations with Spanish people who have learned English in a classroom setting, but need to practice their conversation skills. They pay for all your expenses and the only skill you require is to be able to talk to people. (Hehehehe)
Other than that, I am still exploring the idea of going to India for a few months. I don't feel ready to go home and feel that this time has been given to me and I must do something extraordinary with it. Time has a way of slipping by and I have become acutely aware of how much time can easily be wasted doing what we think we ought to do instead of taking a risk and doing what we really want to do.
Time will tell.

Bournemouth

I am now in Bournemouth, on the south coast of England staying with my mom's eldest sister Jennifer. It is a very beautiful place - isn't it always beautiful by the sea? I decided that I needed a long walk yesterday so took the bus down into the town square and walked down to the pier. It was windy, but not too cold and the sea was rough and alive. I walked for a couple of hours, over to the other pier. I walked up the windy zig zag path that goes up to the road and didn't even feel out of breath, so I did it again! The sea front is lined with tiny little beach huts in matching colours. For instance, there will be a block of about 10 in all the hues of blue, and then another one in yellows. They are great and I want to paint them someday.  I had a cup of tea in a cafe on the seafront and made my way back to the town square to wander around the shops.
Speaking of painting....I went to my aunt's art class with her today and did a watercolour painting. It was absolutely awful, but it was fun and I learned how to use frisket. The teacher was great and inspired me to do a class....someday. Maybe. I come from a long line of true artists and I must say they are all rather intimidating.
Tomorrow Jen and and I are going to meet Mary, the daughter of my late grandfather's brother George for lunch. She lives in Poole and Jen sees her regularly.
On Saturday I go back to London and will fly out to Marrakech early Sunday morning. Stay tuned for adventures in Morocco!

Bristol

I am now in Bristol with my Camino bessie mate Arlene. She is kindly putting me up at her place for a few days before I go off to Bournemouth to visit my Aunt Jennifer. The train journey from Liverpool started off with a cancelled train but I was able to get on one that went through Birmingham and then on to Bristol making me only a half hour behind schedule. Arlene picked me up and we went out for an Indian meal before going back to her place to drink wine and catch up. Today was a beautiful sunny day and we went down to the docks and had a very british, very naughty brunch of bacon butty's and chips. Hell, you only live once right? It was delicious and well worth queuing up for. There is a beautiful bridge that goes across the Avon river and we walked across it and then up to the little fortress at the top of the hill. We have had a great time catching up and philosophysing about the effect the Camino has had on us and trying to work it all out and make sense of it all. We looked at photos and reminisced about our friends and all the good times we had together. We called Gerry from Ireland and it was good to hear his voice. We had the idea of meeting up doing a walk in the lake district or even Scotland - maybe the Coast to Coast....
Tomorrow we are driving to London to see a screening of a film Arlene's cousin has edited. Not sure if I can get a ticket, but if not, I'm sure I can find something to do in London...! Back to Bristol and then on to Bournemouth Tuesday morning where I will stay until I leave for Marakech next Sunday.
It is so good to re-live the Camino with Arlene. It is something that doesn't easily fit into "real" life and it has been a challenge to not talk about it with others for fear of boring them to death! We never seem to tire of talking about it and it's so good to talk about it with someone who has experienced it with me.
Well, off to cook dinner now and possibly drink a glass of wine : )
Hasta Luego!
Jena

Musings

It's amazing how time slips by without you even noticing it. I've been in Liverpool nearly two weeks now. This past week was half term and everyone was off school. As it often is, at the beginning of a week off, it seems like you have time to do all the things you want to do and at the end of the week you realise the list was rather longer than you thought. I feel the same way with my time in Liverpool. 've had a good week though and have been doing the things I've  wanted to do. I love walking on the beach-it seems to go on forever, sort of like Tofino and Vancouver island. Sort of. One of my favourite things is the "Iron Man" exhibition by Antony Gormley entitled "Another Place". 100 life sized iron men spread across 3kms of Crosby beach facing out to the sea. Here is the link: http://www.sefton.gov.uk/default.aspx?page=6216, you must check it out...though you can't get the power of it unless you see it for real. I was walking there one evening at dusk and though I was almost the only person there, it felt eerily as though I wasn't alone. I never get tired of looking at them, they are unusual and fascinating.
A funny thing happened the other day. I was on my way to the beach and decided I needed my hair trimmed so I stopped in at a hair salon on South Rd near my Aunt's place. I settled in to the chair and asked for a quick trim. The young woman commented on my accent and asked me where I was from. When I told her, she said "I have an aunt who lives there", and, naturally, I asked her which part of Canada. She said she really didn't know. After a pause she asked me "where is Canada"? I was stunned and when I regained my composure I asked her if she knew where the United States was and she said, yes, is it near there? Bless. Though she may not be the brightestest girl I've ever met, she was smart enough to charge me £12 quid for a 5 minute trim!

Endless cups of tea!

It's true. A cup of tea seems to make everything better. Whether you've already had 2, or 5, or 10, when someone says "shall I put the kettle on"? the answer is always yes. I don't know what it is that makes the tea here so good. It could be the water, or the fact that the electricity is 220w which makes the water seem to boil even more fiercely than at home. Or it could be the milk because everything dairy is just better here. Whatever it is, I am always up for a cuppa.
Now, onto other travel plans. I have booked a trip to Morocco from Nov 13 to 27th which is pretty exciting. I'll be landing in Casablanca and ending up in Marakesh. Activities include camping in the desert and riding camels. I have decided to change my ticket home and will be staying here longer because, well, I just don't have a reason not to really. I feel like I have this amazing opportunity to travel the world. I'm relatively unencumbered and just feel like this is the right thing to do. I am a bit homesick at times..... I miss my kids, my friends and my Georgie boy, but I know everyone understands and supports me.
I spend my days with my family, walking on the beach and going to the gym. Today I ran 5km.
I am very blessed to have my aunt and uncle put me up so graciously and I am enjoying my time with them immensely. Just need to sort out a visit with Arlene now and after that.....who knows!

Hanging Out in Liverpool

It is Friday afternoon and I have spent the day doing nothing. I signed up at the gym with my cousin Mel and went yesterday for two hours. It was great to know that I am in good shape and it felt really good to move my body after a week of the sedentary life. My plan is to go every day if I can. I am researching my options for travel now - so much choice! It's a little overwhelming, well, everything is these days. I just feel like I should be walking! And where the hell are those damn yellow arrows when you really need them!?
It's been great being in Liverpool staying with my aunt and uncle Sue and Terry, and seeing my cousins and Aunt Angela every day. The weather is cold and I had to buy a winter jacket yesterday as I really didn't pack properly for post-Camino weather. I wandered around Liverpool yesterday and really enjoyed Bold Street and lunch with my cousin Gemma. I am beginning to feel itchy and need to move on to the next trip. I have some ideas, so keep reading...
I am feeling a little bit blue...homesick for my kids I think. It seems so long ago since I've seen them and haven't spoken to them since I left for Spain. I will try calling this weekend so if you are reading this Sarah, Robbie, and James, make sure you answer your phones when you see "unknown number" on your call display!
Not too much else to report other than a nice evening last night with Phil (my cousin Mel's husband) and their friend Chris. We went to a couple of pubs and listened to some live music. Tonight I'm going over there for curry and then this weekend my other cousin William and his wife Anne and their children are coming up from London for a visit. It will be great seeing them. I hope to make a plan to go to Bristol to see Arlene before my next trip.
I need to go for a long walk so I'm going to sign off and get outside.
Lots of love to all
Jena

Post Camino transition

Back in Liverpool again. I was met at the train station by my lovely Aunties Susie and Angela and it was soooo lovely to see them. Susie, Terry and I shared a bottle of bubbly (my second glass of the day) and we had a delicious dinner. I put my washing in and put on some clothes I had left here and realizeed how much weight I must have lost.  This is all good, but I am no longer walking 25km a day!  Maybe my cousin Mel will take me to the gym with her every day while I'm here.
I know this transition is going to be difficult. The simplicity of life on the Camino is over and I find myself thinking about other things again. The trick is to keep reminding myself of the things learned there that I want to retain and hope that people can cope with the changes in me. I miss very much the people I met and became so close with in such intense and unusual circumstances. I am in touch with a few and look forward to seeing Arlene and hopefully Lewis in Bristol soon.
I thoroughly enjoyed my time in Santiago. I couldn't stop gazing at the magnificent cathedral and found myself drawn back to the chuch square again and again, gazing up at it's grand stature, smiling as new batches of pilgrims made their emotional entrance into the square. Perhaps I felt a spiritual connection, knowing that so many pilgrims over so many centuries had come to this very place after a long and incredible journey. It's a feeling I hope I never forget.
So now I will begin researching the possibilities that lie before me.
Keep reading...... I will keep writing.

The end of the earth

I went to Finisterra yesterday with Arlene, and the three English people I met on the first day of walking: Rita, Ken and Carmel. We decided to rent a car instead of taking the bus and I think it was a good thing to do in the end. God bless Arlene, the only person who had her drivers license with her, for driving. We had a gps unit (Kate) in the car and even then it was a bit crazy getting out of the city. Once we got out on the highway though, Kate sent us up into the mountains, away from the coast, but it turned out alright in the end as we were rewarded with stunning views of the whole coastline. Again, it was hot, sunny and clear and as we made our way down the mountain and to the coast we were swept up in the beauty of it all. We made it to Finisterra and had a little walk around the town and then went for lunch at one of the many restaurants on the sea front. Afterwards we went up to the lighthouse and took many photos. There is a long tradition of pilgrims going to Finisterra and burning all their clothing so as to cleanse themselves in both body and spirit before turning back and making the long journey home. Now, it is a very touristy place and no burning is allowed! We had to settle for absorbing ourselves in the stunning views of the beautiful coastline - it was blissful being by the sea again, inhaling it´s salty, sweet scent.
Back to Santiago and one last evening with my good friend Arlene. She is so amazing and such a gift from my Camino experience. We laughed, we cried, we shared many moments walking, eating, drinking and sharing as if we´d known each other for years. She is a gem and I am so blessed to have met her. The only thing that prevented me from crying my eyes out is that I know I will see her again in the UK before I go home.
I have decided to go back to Liverpool on Monday. I am feeling a little overwhelmed with my experience and feel the need to re-group before making further travel plans. I feel good about this and even though Barcelona would be amazing, I feel like I have plenty of time to come back to Spain if I want to later. The weather here continues to be sunny and hot - today it was 36 degrees!! Hard to leave this country...
So, two more nights at the Parador (!!!) - I heard someone call me a "Paradonna", which I thought was very fitting. I could have moved to another hotel, or, God forbid the Alburgue, but hey, I´ll only turn 50 once and I might as well milk it for all it´s worth.
Stay tuned, I will continue to write about my journey. I appreciated all the beatiful emails I received for my birthday from all who took the time to email or comment. Thank you.

Santiago

I must start this blog entry from yesterday morning when I left Arco de Pino, the last day of walking, a mere 20km. I left just before 7am as I wanted to get to the Church before noon so I could go to Mass. It was dark, and would be for about an hour and a quarter and I walked alone. Several amazing things happened this day - the moon was full, or nearly, and my path was lit by moonlight. The first part of the walk was through a forest of eucalyptyse (sp) trees and in the moonlight, they were utterly beautiful. I felt absolutely no pain anywhere. I saw, for the last time, the sun rise in the mountains of Galecia, a fine morning mist settled in the valley. I did not walk alone for long as I kept meeting other Pilgrims I knew. We spoke a few words, walked together for a bit, but moved at our own pace, in our own thoughts. I contemplated the end of the journey and the last day I would walk and marvelled at how far I have come.
There is a hill just before Santiago called the ¨hill of tears¨ or ¨hill of Joy¨ which is about 5km from the centre of the City. From the top, you can see the city and just make out the tops of the two steeples of the Cathedral. When I stood there, I kept thinking of the medieval pilgrims who had walked for months, or even years to reach their destination and I understood why it was named so.
I walked the last 10km or so with Sylvie from Quebec and Samantha from Ireland, two women I have met recently. Winding our way through the modern part of the city and then into the old part with the signature cobbled narrow streets, I had a feeling of urgency....I wanted to get there, I desperately wanted to see the Cathedral. I was uprepared for the emotion I felt when I walked down through the portal into the square. The magnificence of the Cathedral is awe-some and I wept when I saw it. It was another beautiful sunny day, not a cloud and just the right temperature. I couldn´t take my eyes off the cathedral and looked up, tears of joy in my eyes. Joy, because of the sheer magnitude of the building; Joy, because I had completed something I set out to do. I felt such emotion and and a burst of energy unlike the usual exhaustion at the end of the walk.
We got there about 5 past noon and did not go into the church. Instead, we stayed and took some photos of ourselves in front of the church and then went and had something to eat and drink at one of the cafes. We all felt a little numb and didn´t quite know how to express our feelings. I checked into my hotel, had a shower and went back into the square to meet and greet the many fellow pilgrims who had arrived the day before. It was a lot of hugging and congratulating each other, photos, laughter, and exclamations: "we did it"!!! We all agreed to meet in the square at 7pm that evening and make dinner plans, like we did every night for the past few weeks.
I had decided to treat myself to a night at the Parador, a five star hotel right on the square. The history is that it was always a place for Pilgrims to stay and it has now been transformed into a luxury hotel. I cannot describe the beauty of it adequately. I could not believe they let me in in my bedraggled, sweaty, state and did my best to cover any signs of bed bug bites as I entered the building. After I checked in, the porter asked me if he could take my¨"bag" to which I replied: "I´ve carried this pack nearly 800kms, and don´t mind carrying it a few more meters!" I have a huge room overlooking one of the gardens with a water fountain. It is completely over the top and I must say I felt only slightly guilty as I settled myself in.
I went to the office where I was to receive my compostella - a document written in latin to say I had completed the Camino de Santiago. Even my name was written in Latin and the young man was impressed that I had started my journey from St. Jean PDP. When he looked at my passport with all the stamps I had received over the past 5 weeks, he said I had come a long, long way and congratulated me sincerely. I know it´s only a piece of paper, but I felt very proud at that moment.
We all met in the square as planned and there was more celebrating, hugging, congratulating, and photos. There must have been 40 people who had all had some kind of contact over the past few weeks. It was very emotional and moving, especially to realize that most of us will not see each other again. We decided to have dinner at a hotel around the corner - a beautiful monastary that has been turned into a hotel and served, what was for most of us, our last Pilgrim meal.
Later, we met at one of the cafe bars and continued to drink toasts to each other and say goodbye to some people who were moving on the next day. At midnight, there were a few stragglers who wished me a happy birthday and I think I finally got back to my hotel around 1am where I poured myself a long, hot, bubble bath. Delicious!
This morning I woke up and met Sylvie and Samantha, also staying at the Parador, for breakfast. I ate caviar and drank champagne on my 50th birthday! It was beautifully extravagant! Later, I went to the church and sat in the splendor of the Cathedral for a while before Mass began. At the beginning, they list all the countries that the Pilgrims had come from and who had received their Compostellas the day before. The organ played magnificently and a nun sang so beautifully...very moving...more tears. If you know anything about the church you may know that there is a huge incense burner that is hoisted from the ceiling of the church. At the end of Mass, the priests stand on either side and swing it from side to side on a thick rope, frankencense buring and filling the church with its sweet scent. I love the smell of that incense and it was a spectacular sight to see.
My friend Arlene took me out for a birthday lunch of salad, clams, and roasted pimentos (my favourite spanish dish) and we walked around the city all afternoon, stopping for a beer and doing our laundry! She is a good friend and I will go and see her in Bristol at some point before I return home.
Tonight, whoever is left will meet again in the square and we will decide where to go for dinner. I´m hoping to drink white wine and eat Pulpo, a specialty of Galecia.
Tomorrow I will go to Finisterra and then make travel plans for Barcelona for a couple of days before going back to Liverpool. I am starting to feel that my Camino has come to an end but am realizing, perhaps it is only the beginning. I feel a great sense of peace. The past couple of years have been so difficult and painful and I  have felt enormous loss and grief in so many ways. But I have survived and have come out the other side stronger, richer, and more at peace with myself. I still don´t know what I will do with my life and I don´t know exactly what the message for my Camino is yet, but I know it will come to me when the time is right. My only job is to make sure I am listening so I will hear the message.

I DID IT!!!!!

Just a quick note to say that I made it! I know you were all pulling for me and I felt the energy when I entered the Cathedral square. I am going to write more later today as I am going to go into the church now to sit for a while before mass starts at noon. I woke up this morning in the Parador and am staying one more night. This experience continues to overwhelm me.
Stay tuned.....a big blog entry is coming...!

One more day

Only one more day of walking left - 20km to Santiago. As I was walking today I became aware that my journey is nearly over. Life goes back to ¨normal¨ for most people after spending a day or two in the city and possibly going on to Finisterra. I need to start making plans now as to what I will do next. Í can´t believe I did this. When I think back to the first night I spent at the Chemin d Espirit in St. Jean Pied de Port, it feels like a year ago! And now, I am only 20km from my destination. I have walked nearly 800kms. So, Santiago. I ponder what this means to me. It is the end of a journey, a goal realized, a completion of something I set out to do. It was a physical challence, an emotional journey, a spiritual quest. The spiritual part I have not yet realized. Perhaps when I get there it will be more clear. Some say it is weeks before you get the full message of your Camino.
There will be many of my friends in Santiago for a few days to help me celebrate my birthday. Some, I met very early on and many I have met since Leon. Some have gone home but will be there with me in spirit. I feel so blessed to have met so many wonderful people. I must write about three men I met recently - Antonio and Massimo from Italy and Jamie from Mexico. They have travelled together since St. Jean and are fondly referred to as ¨the three tenors¨because of their snoring in harmony! Apparently it is quite the orchestra! Though I adore them,  I have successfully managed to avoid sleeping with them!
Another person I want to mention is a young man named Lewis from London. I met him after Leon as well. He is 24 and such a kind, funny, sweet young man. Reminds me a bit of James. He cooked for me when I was feeling unwell. He is travelling on his own and has made many friends along the way and I am blessed to know him.
When you go to bed tonight, know that I will be just beginning the last 20km of my pilgrimmage.
Pray for me, that I make it!
J

Time

Time seems to stand still here on the Camino. Another really hard day today (you´d think this would get easier) as I have very low energy with my tummy bug. Cannot eat anything but have been drinking tea and lots of water. It´s the best I can do. I was hoping that by now it would have resolved so may have to go to the doctor. With only two more days of walking, I feel like just putting up with it. It was a beautiful walk today though, with rolling hills and then, of course, a good 2km steep hill at the very end. I´ve got some choice words for Brierly when I am finished with this! The first 20km are enjoyable and no problem and always the last 5km are so hard. Everything aches from the hip down, and I just want to stop. It is at this point when I am more aware of my thoughts and try to distract myself with thinking about, praying for, people I love and miss. Eventually, when I am sure I can´t take one more step, I get to my destination and make a decision about where I am to stay. After a shower, a drink, and a rest, all the pain is forgotten.
I was walking for a bit today with a guy named Peter from Australia. He had an interesting thought: he thinks that westerners are so active that they simply can´t be still and quiet to meditate. The Camino is a thing of physical endurance but every single step is like a meditation. You will never take that one step again, and the next one gets you closer to your destination. I could relate to this.
I need to start thinking about what I am going to do when I get to Santiago. I thought about walking to Finisterra, but will see how I´m feeling. I have many friends waiting for me or arriving the same day and we will have a great celebration. There is a festival on the 12th, the day I will arrive, but I will go to Mass on the 13th and then make plans for Finisterra. I may go to Barcelona for a few days after that and then back to Liverpool to make plans for the next step of my journey. Lately, I´ve been thinking a lot about India.......
I hope these blogs are somewhat interesting to you..I seem to be focussing a lot on my physical condition, mostly because it is impossible to describe the profound beauty of what surrounds me each day. I have taken loads of photos, many of ancient buildings, churches, and bridges. The history is so interesting and I love reading about the places I´ve been. After all this time though, it´s all melding together and I´m having trouble remembering which place I´d been and what happened there.
I know that I am walking when you all are sleeping, but please remember to think of me and send me good wishes on ¨The Way¨.

Palas de Rei

Only a few minutes to write so I´ll try and be brief. The sun continues to shine through the bucolic hills of Galicia. There was a beautiful fine mist this morning and it cleared to a crisp, cool morning of walking. I must say I will remember the ¨smell¨of walking in Galicia....cow and pig manure. Speaking of smells....I think I have taken on a unique odour myself that is not so pleasant either! Handwashing My clothing just doesn´t do the job.
I have noticed a huge increase in the number of people starting out in the morning. A steady stream of Peregrinos steadfastedly and purposfully following the yellow arrows. At least there is less liklihood of me getting lost. I have picked up some kind of tummy bug and have been unable to eat much over the last three days except tea and toast. This is nowhere near what I need to consume in order to walk as much as I do. It is hard going as I notice my energy dwindling. I´m going to try and eat something now and just pray that I do not spend the night twisting and turning with stomache cramps! I can´t believe the amount of physical challenges I have had with this journey. My body is strong, muscles etc, no aches or pains there, but all these other problems have been such a drag.
Only three more days of walking unless I decide to walk to Finisterra which is another 100k or so. Please keep sending me your encouraging emails....
Buenos Tardes!

Countdown

With about 100km to go and only 5 more days of walking left, I am feeling a bit nostalgic already. What will I do with nowhere to walk, and, more importantly, how will I cope without the ubiquitous yellow arrow to tell me where I am to go? I feel like I could just live this life. It is so simple and surreal. I don´t have to worry about anything and my only purpose is to walk to the next village or town. I love Spain. It is so beautiful and sometimes I feel like I could remain here in some tiny little village with the sun shining and all my most basic needs met.
Lately, I have been thinking about what it means to be Happy. I think the true state of happy-ness is something we only get moments of in life. When you are experiencing a moment of happiness, it is so blissful, so keenly felt that I don´t believe we could stay in that state forever. I think the goal should be that we are aware of those moments and we say them out loud: I am happy right now, in this moment. Instead, we tend to look for the elusive state of being ultimately and consistently Happy all the time, and we don´t notice when it happens.
I have had moments of such happiness on my Camino and I have said it outloud each time I realize I am in that state of pure happiness. I cling to those memories as they are what will provide me with what I need to keep my Camino alive and attempt to live my life in a more simple and open way.
So many people I have met, each with their own ¨Camino¨, each with their own story. I bless all these pilgrims as they have come to this with open minds and hearts, and have most likely felt both the pain and the bliss of this extraordinary experience.
After Sarria, it is about 100km to Santiago. In order to acquire your Compostela, you actually only have to walk the last 100km. I expect the road will become very busy as more and more people join the last leg of the journey. I will arrive in Santiago on Oct. 12 and will likely see many people I have met along the way who will celebrate with me on the 13th. I must begin to decide what I will do afterwards but still, I remain for the most part, in the moment. I cherish these last days and trust that I will find my way after Santiago.
But now I am hungry and need to go and eat.
Blessings,

Long, but beautiful day

Today was the day I climbed the next big mountain. Acutally, I decided to do most of it yesterday and the rest today, but it seemed like the climbs would never end today. La Faba turned out to be a really great place - a tiny hamlet, high in the mountains run by a German confraternity. Nice and clean and a big kitchen to cook in. I am travelling with another group of people and I particularly like Arlene, from Bristol who I have befriended. She is about my age and we seem to have a lot in common. She has made me feel very welcome. There were about 15 people who pooled our resources and cooked a huge pot of pasta and a risotto. Plenty of wine, and lots of laughs. At 8:00, there was a special service at the little church for all the pilgrims so I decided to go. A franciscan brother led the service and a woman translated in German and English. He lit a candle lantern and pàssed it around, telling us to think of somone or something that was special and important to us on the Camino. It was very moving as the lights were dim and it was completely quiet. He then washed the feet of one of the pilgrims and asked her to wash the feet of another, and so on. It was very special. After that, he did a blessing and we all stood around the alter together. It made me realize that though we come from so many different countries, on the Camino, we are all the same. I think of this quite often. He left us with this thought: "if you go home and merely tell stories about your experiences on the Camino, you haven't really done the Camino. You have to change something and keep it with you forever". I will think about this as I keep walking.
There are people waiting to use the computer so I will sign off for now.....and take a rest.

Oh the shame...!!!!!

After I had a shower I took out my sleeping bag and laid it out on my bed. I decided to have a little rest for half and hour and then went out to sit at a cafe and write. I met some new people and we were chatting when I found a bunch of little itchy bumps on my shoulder. I got Gerry (from Ireland) to have a look and he said he thought it was what I dreaded it to be. Yes. I have bed bugs. Gerry and I came back to the albergue, my head hung in shame, admitting to my haeneous crime. The young man and woman who run the place gave me two big plastic bags and told me to pack up everything that can be washed and bring it down to the laundry. Everyone in the dorm was looking at me and I felt so embarassed. God Bless Gerry, who came with me and helped me. I have to have everything washed, even what I am wearing and it will cost me 5 euros per load! They can´t wash my pack but they can spray it with something. I feel like my whole body is covered in bites (it isn´t) and that there are bugs crawling all over me (there aren´t). Now I have to hang around here until some clothes are ready for me to wear.
I feel like crying.....but I´m not going to.
This too, shall pass.

Bed bugs.....?

I have some red spots on my arms and am wondering if they are bed bugs. Not itchy, but quite red. I will air out my sleeping bag and wash everything in my pack in a machine. I have checked all my stuff and don´t see any sign of any black dots so I´m hoping it is just the sun. Yesterday the temperature was 34 degrees in Ponferrada. I decided to stay there because there is a medieval castle (1200ad) and I really wanted to go through it. I totally forgot that on Mondays everything is closed in Spain and since I never know what day of the week it is, I didn´t get to go in. I was quite disappointed so when into yet another cathedral. The one in Ponferrada is quite special as it has very strong links to the Templar knights and has attained the lofty status of a Basillica. It was quite beautiful, but not so grand as others I have seen.
I walked 26km today to Villafranca, just at the foot of the next mountain to climb - O´Cebrera. Tomorrow is supposed to be over 30km to the top but there are a few little villages before that which I think I will consider. I read that O´Cebrera is not a great place to stay and this will shorten the walk a little and since it is all uphill, will be quite hard. I am realizing how strong I am getting as the hills are so easy for me now and I can keep my regular pace. I stop often to take photos and breathe......
On the other side of the mountain, I leave the province of Castille d´Leon and enter Galecia. Apparently, this is where there is a very good white wine - Albarino - which you must eat with octopus. My friend Juan Jo from Spain has been a good guide and translator for me. I met him yesterday and we are having dinner again together tonight. Again, I pledge to learn Spanish!
Most of the time I walk alone. I prefer it right now as I am needing to let my thoughts be what they are. After leaving the meseta, I am enjoying being in the mountains again. So many people complained about the meseta but for me it was a rich and beautiful time. I believe the transition is necessary to the process of the Camino and I am so happy I was able to do it all at once.
There are very few people I know now as I am either ahead of or behind the people I originally started out with. I met two Polish men today and they were fascinated that I had come from so far away and all alone.
My boots and my feet seem to have made peace with each other and most of my blisters are healed. This is a great blessing as I realize how much harder it was to walk now that they are better. I bless them every morning.
Now, two people waiting for the computer so I must close.
Love to all
J

In the Mountains again

So I am once again in the mountains and today was at the highest point I will get to on the Camino - 1505m. The views were indescribable. I stayed in Foncebadon last night, a funky little place only 2km from the Cruz de Ferro. My plan was to leave in the morning and get to the cross at sunrise. Didn´t work out exactly as planned, but it was perfect in the end. I left my stone, sat on the rocks and thought about the "burden" I was leaving there. My thoughts at that point are very personal so won´t put them down here, but know that it was an emotional and profound moment in my journey.
After that I carried on to the top and then began the decsent down to the next village - Acebo. When you are walking, and if you are able to stay present you don´t think about what is coming. All of a sudden, you turn a corner or crest a hill and you see the inevitable church steeple, telling you that you have arrived in the next village. It was hard going down the mountain (only half way down) as it was a very steep and rocky path. When I got to the village, I sat down and had a glass of fresh squeezed orange juice and sat on the patio. The views were stunning and I am so happy to be in the mountains. The air is clear and fresh. And then I saw the sign for rooms and made the decision to stop here. In doing so, I know I will leave the people I have met recently, but it´s okay. I feel like having more alone time.
I passed a sign today that said 222km to Santiago. When I looked at this, I realized that I have walked over 500kms! I am strong, yes I am! I am doing something really amazing and brave and I realize that it took a lot of guts for me to do this on my own. So many people questioned my decision to do this alone. The fact is, you are never really alone. There are people ahead of me, behind me, and sometimes beside me. And this is much like my life. I walk alone, but amidst much love from all the people who believe in me and honor who I am.  I am choosing to slow down so as to be in the mountains a little bit longer. Tomorrow it is a short day - only about 22km to Ponferrada.
So here I am, sitting in a little hostel with a room that is clean, comfortable and all mine! The sun is shining, my clothes are drying and I´ve had a cervesa con limonada on the patio. A little luxury for a humble pelegrino who desperately needs to shave her legs!

Astorga

I am staying at an Albergue that holds about 125 people. I´ve managed to get into a semi private room with 3 other women so it should be a quiet night. This is a great city but because I didn´t arrive until later today, had very little time to explore. It was a 32km day and the last 3km was gruelling in the 32degrees heat. I had dinner at a fancy hotel with my friend Eric, a singer-dancer from NYC. He thinks I´m FABULOUS! We had a nice evening together and he is determined to be in Santiago for my birthday.
So many amazing people I have met. Two nights ago I ran into a couple from Vernon BC whom I had met earlier on. They are really nice but I hadn´t had a chance to spend much time with them until the other night. Linda shared that her camino is about grieving the loss of her son less than a year ago. She told the story of his sudden illness and death and that he was 41 and left behind a wife and three young children. She cried openly and I so appreciated her sharing her grief. It made me think of my mom and how strong she is and how much she would have been able to relate to this woman.
I am finding that we get very close very quickly with people and you take the moment you have because you may never see this person again. It is a rich and beautiful experience.
Tomorrow I go to Rabanal, only 21km. I am considering going a bit further as the next day is 31km and is up to the Cruz de Ferra, the place where I will leave my stone.
I feel good. Blessed. Happy.

Leon

Last night I decided to stay at the Alburgue run by the nuns. It was interesting. Normally, you have to be in by 10pm but this one was 9:30. It was a very crowded and busy place and I got a bed on the bottom bunk. I heard a lot of people talking about bed bugs but they had fumigated the place that day so I was´nt too worried. I got myself ready for bed and then all of a sudden a little nun came through the place clapping her hands and telling everyone to come with her. I got out of bed, threw on my shorts and followed, no idea what was happening. We all filed into a small room for evening prayers and there were little books in all different languages so we could follow along. This took about 20 minutes and I thought we were done. Then, she opened two big doors that led into the church and we all filed in. I sat near the front and as is common in some of these old churches, there is a space at the front separated by iron gates where the clergy or nuns sit. All of a sudden, about 20 nuns filed in 2 or three at a time, like penguins. They were so cute! They began the evening prayers in Spanish, or latin I think and I just listened and enjoyed the warm feeling of the moment. Then one of the older nuns began to sing. It was so beautiful as she had a clear and perfect voice. It brought tears to my eyes and I just embraced it all. After that, there were a few more prayers, lots of standing up and stitting down, and then a woman who worked there came to the front and named the countries of all the pilgrims that night. There must have been 25 different countries! At the end, there was the pilgrim blessing, wishing us a good journey to Santiago. It was beautiful. The other good thing about this albergue was that the men and women were separated and even though there were 30 or 40 people in my room, there was NO Snoring!! I had a pretty good sleep.
I´ve discovered that my least favourite part of this whole thing is going into and leaving a big city. Sometimes it takes 1-2 hours. Leon was not well signed and I really had to pay attention and look at a map. Because it is now dark until nearly 8am, it is impossible to do this in the light of day. Anyway, I made it out onto the quiet road and walked a mere 23km today.
Since I spent a day in Leon, I have lost my original travel group for the most part. I have met new people already and feel okay about spending some time alone now. Tomorrow is a long day - 32 km to Astorga, a slightly bigger city.
I am more than half way to my destination and am considering walking to Finisterra, another 100km if all is well. We´ll see when I get to Santiago.
Tonight I am staying at a private Albergue for 7 euros and 9 euros for a delicious home cooked meal. I ate together with new people, Rudy, Guillia, and a German guy whose name I can't remember, and it was nice. Salad, squash soup, and paella. I think I will go to bed early and make a start around 7am. Blisters are healing, new ones cropping up....this is how it is meant to be for me.
I hope all is well with you all at home,
Jena

I cán´t say enough about OLIVES!

Now that I am resting in Leon, I have a little more time to write. There is an internet cafe with lots of computers and no one breathing down my neck. I´m hearing that a  lot of people are unable to leave comments on the blog. If anyone can post something about how to do it, that would be great. Robbie....?
It is so good to hear from you all....encouraging words that make me feel more connected to home. I generally know what time it is but have no idea what day or date it is. I just know I´ve been walking for about 20 days.
Last night I stayed un a luxurious hotel with my two Belgian friends, Francis and Roger. Only on the Camino is it okay to spend the night with two men I didn´t know until I started this journey! I had a the greatest luxury of a bubble bath, completely losing myself in the warmth, smell and the clean white towels. Bliss! We met some other friends from California for dinner as it was R & F´s last night. I think they will complete it next year. Strange to be so connected to people you never knew before and know that you may never see them again. Never say never....
I am staying in the Albergue tonight, again sleeping with 20 or so people. This one is by donation and run by the nuns. They do a beautiful evening service and pray for all the Pilgrims (Pelegrinos). Tomorrow I will walk again and I think it is a long one, about 28kms. Working our way back into the mountains and perhaps a change in weather. It continues to be beautiful and sunny every day.
The food in Spain is interesting. I eat olives every day, sometimes even for breakfast. They are so good!! I bought a small bag this morning at the market and I think they were the best ones yet, so I went back and bought more! I am always thinking about what I must carry in my pack. Even the smallest items can add up and believe it or not, I feel the difference.  I am getting a little tired of the Pelegrino menu: as it is always the same no matter the city or town, but only costs 9 or 10 euros and includes all the wine you want to drink. You have a choice between Pasta, ensalada mixta, garlic soup and maybe asparagus for your starter and then meat, fish, or eggs for your main. Every dish comes with french fries. I have found a nice change is to go for tapas and share with other people. It´s enough food and is almost always good. Beyond that, I take some fruit and yogurt drink on the road and usually drink a beer when I get myself settled in my place.
The church in Leon is magnificent. I went in briefly yesterday when I arrived and will go back in today. Therey are countless outside cafe´s surrounding the square where one can sit and drink, read, write, and watch people. This will be my afternoon and then an early night and hopefully not too many snoring people!!
Since I am staying a day in Leon, I will lose track of some of the people I have been travelling with but I´m sure I will meet more. Seems that is my way.
Will write again soon.
PS. Did I mention the olives.....???

The Meseta continues....

Now in a very small but lovely town about a day and a half from Leon. I think I will stop in Leon for a day of rest and then carry on to the next mountains. It is a little chilly in the mornings but still very hot during the day. They say it is unusual for this time of year, but I am grateful we do not have rain. I now have a cold - sleeping with 20 or more people every night it is not surprising. Its not too bad though but a drag nevertheless. It is very flat where I am walking now and close to the highway so not very exciting at all. The last two days had stretches of 12-18 km with no place to stop so I had to be very prepared. Still not much of an appetite during the day so I eat mostly fruit and drink lots of water. My clothes are quite baggy so I must be losing weight. It is so interesting to hear people speak in so many different languages. Primarily Espanol in these small towns, everyone is trying so hard to communicate. Today I went into the little bar where I am staying and asked for a bottle of water and a glass with some ice. I got that, and then the young man put a small plate of tapas down as well. I wasn´t hungry so I said no, just agua....he shrugged his shoulders and looked a little disappointed. The woman standing beside me said, I think he wanted to give you the tapas for free. I felt so bad! so I tried to communicate no comprendo....He smiled.
On my bucket list I have added one more item; to learn Spanish!!! I have met people who speak 3 or 4 languages well enough to communicate their needs and have a conversation. So impressive.
I have countless stories like this and will bore you all to tears when I return. But the moments on this journey for me will never be forgotten.
Today when I was walking, my blister was really hurting. I started thinking about my Dad working in his garden and how much joy he got from that. I felt his warm companionship, just as I always had with him and before I knew it, my blister had stopped hurtimg. I know he was walking with me.
These are the gifts of the Camino.

Blog is working!

Finally my blog is working. Thanks Robbie for trying to help.
I have been dying to write and let you know that I am fine and still walking....There is so much to tell and I have been writing in my diary instead so I don´t forget anything. It is still very hot here but much cooler in the mornings when I set out. It is also darker and I usually walk an hour or so in darkness or little light. Yesterday I left Castrojirez early and climbed to the top of a steep hill just in time to see the sun rise. It was incredible! I am now in Carrion and in the middle of the Meseta, what some people say is the most boring part of the Camino. I find that it is necessary in the experience as it is a time for thought and reflection instead of the beauty around me. When I walk, I am constantly aware of my body and how it feels. I have never been so aware of every little thing that gives me discomfort or pain. My blisters are finally healing after two days´rest in Burgos and I am now walking again and hoping they don´t flare up again. My body is strong and fit and I feel healthy otherwise.
I do not think of home. I am in the moment always. In the early part of this journey, I was constantly looking ahead to see what was around the next corner. Would it be another hill? Would there be shade? Or would it be down a rocky path...? I realize this is much like how I live my life, constantly wondering what comes next and what plans I must make. I do not look ahead now, I walk because I am here and there are gifts every day...even in the Meseta.
I have met so many people and hear so many different languages every day. Some people have gone on past me and some are behind but I am always so surprised and delighted to see someone I have shared something with along the way, whether it was an hour of walking, a room in an albergue, or a meal later in the day. I found my first friend Anna in Burgos (the woman who walked over the Pyrenees with me). We lost each other for quite a long time and then there she was! I was delighted to see her again and exchange emails. She is home in Paris now. Other friends will finish in Leon and others will go on to Santiago. I wonder who I will see wen I get there.....
My days consist of getting up early and re-packing my belongings into my pack, making sure I have enough water and that I have not left anything important behind. I have exactly what I need right now - no more, no less. I walk until 1 or 2pm, following the book as closely as I can, and then look for a place to stay when I arrive, hot, sweaty, dusty, stinky and tired, ready to rest my weary legs and feet. It is especially joyful when I take my boots off! I take a shower, unpack my bag, wash my clothes and then lie down for an hour or so. Afterwards I go and look for a place to eat and meet friends and share the stories of the day. In bed by 10pm, and in the words of Dylan Thomas "say a few words to the close and holy darkness¨, and then I sleep.
It is impossible to adequately describe this experience. It is full of pain at times, and joy at other times. When I meet people for the first time, there are three questions I ask: Where are you from? What is your Camino? and, How are your feet?! We are all the same, walking the road together, each with a different purpose, but sharing the same experience. There were times in the beginning that I did not think I could do this, but now I know I can. I am committed. I am happy walking alone or with people and I gratefully accept whatever the Camino brings to me. I am open to the gifts, the pain, the joy and the beauty of it all. For me, perhaps this journey is a journey of grace and thankfulness.
I will write again soon,
with much love to all
Jena

Los Arcos....a long day in the sun

I haven´t written for a while as it is often hard to get onto the computer at the end of the day in the refugios. Last night, I stayed in a terrible one, it was not clean and very hot. many beds in a huge room so lots of snoring! Tonight I am staying in a newer one with only 6 beds to a room and breakfast included. I have made many friends along the way but will be parting ways with them tomorrow as I will not be able to walk 30k with my bad blister. It seems the Camino is telling me to slow down and take more time. I will have to cut this short as lights out has passed but there is a football game on so they are letting some of the guys stay up and watch the game. Anyway, this is very hard and I am discouraged with my blister but still hoping it will eventually heal. I am prepared to stay one more night in Logrono if necessary. The weather is blistering hot and today there was no shade at all. Rewards are the incredible scenery, the old monastery´s and medival buildings and churches you pass by and today was the day of the wine fountain which I drank from at 8.00 am! I am so hot I have totally lost my appetite during the day and can only manage a cafe con leche and some fruit. Sometimes the cafes offer fresh squeezed orange juice which I happily take part in! Tonight my friend Frances from Belgium and I cooked a meal for some of the people staying here. It was so much fun and we drank wine and talked till late. I am being asked to get off the computer so will bid you goodnight. Thanks for thinking of me...please pray for my blister to heal. I am learning to live in the moment.

Blisters and Blarney

I have a huge blister on my heel and am wishing Leah was here with her gel bandages! It was 34 degrees yesterday and the hills didn´t end. We got to Zuburi, and they told us the hostel was closed in Larasonna, so we had to stay in Zubiri instead. I was so hot, tired, sore and in pain. The only thing that made me quit complaining is that there is a group of Irish people and they are so happy all the time. One of the guys is blind and he has the biggest smile on his face and keeps saying how wonderful it all is. So there. Anyway, it is 8am and I am on to Pamploma so I better get going before it gets too hot. Pray for me and my blister.....