Burgos

It has basically rained continuously from Belorado to Burgos and I am getting a little tired of being wet. Despite the rain I have really enjoyed walking this bit. It is so green and lush, the promise of great things to come...wine! In Villafranca Montes de Oca, I made the grave mistake of washing my clothes. There was no heat and they didn't dry so I was forced to walk in shorter trousers, and it was cold. By the time I got to Atapuerca where I stayed that night, I was sopping wet, carrying my other damp clothes. To my delight it was a very nice albergue complete with washer and dryer! I quickly put everything into the dryer and wore the only dry thing I had - shorts and a fleece. At the albergue I decided to cook for myself as there was a kitchen so I went off to the supermercado where I met a lovely Korean couple in their 60's from Vancouver who I asked to join me which they seemed happy to do. I told them I would cook and all they had to do was keep me company with a bottle of wine. We had such a nice time and ended up finally saying goodbye in Burgos. We will keep in touch. I was so impressed with their determination to get to Santiago despite the gloomy weather. I also met a woman named Steen from Copenhagen who was fed up with the weather and decided to go home after walking in the rain all day to Burgos. She is an optomotrist and did not want to waste her precious holidays by walking in rain every day. Fair enough. The great thing about living in Europe is that it is easy to get back to Spain and the camino will always be here. We hung out that evening and had a really nice time before she left at 4:00 am for her bus to Madrid. So, now on the bus and on my way to Barcelona for a few days to see the sights there. Everyone I've spoken to has said that it is one of the best cities to visit so I am excited. I have a room booked and hope to do a bicycle tour of the city and see the Sagrada Familia. A wander through La Rambles and many a cafe con leche in the sunshine would make me very happy

Casteldelgado....again

I went into the hotel to use the loo before getting on my way. When I came out, there was Jude and Kate, two women from Australia whom I had met two days before. We were so happy to see each other! I sat down with them and before we realised, three French men at the table next to us ordered us each a beer. Now I knew I wouldn't be walking too far! After a little snack, we finally headed out, hoping to get past Belorado. We were met with incredible high winds, almost enough to take us up in the air! It was very difficult walking and I forged on ahead of them as it was hard going and we had to go our own pace. By the time I got to Belorado, it was raining heavily. I decided to stay there. I made my way through the town to an albergue I had stayed at last year called Cuatro Cantones and remembered to be a really nice one. When I went in, the man who runs it came to the door and recognised me! He gave me a big hug and took me inside offering me a cup of tea! He wanted to know why I was back, and we had a really nice reunion. His name is Fernando and he welcomed me warmly. Kate and Jude showed up a bit later and we all settled in. We were all in a room together with a woman named Ina, a dentist from Germany and a sweet guy from Belgium named Fred.  I asked Fernando if there was evening Mass and he said it was at 8:00 but dinner was at 7:30. I said I would go to Mass and skip dinner as I could find something in the supermercado later. He said nonsense, he would keep my dinner for me. Off I went to church only to find that they decided to have mass that day at 7:00 instead of 8:00. This is typical Spain - change it but don't bother to let anyone know. Dinner was delicious, wine was great, company was the best. Ina and I walked together the next day, something I rarely do, but we had the same pace and had a great visit. She decided to take the bus to Burgos and I wanted to keep walking so stayed in Villafranca Montes de Oca. In fact, many people, including Jude and Kate took the bus that day from Belorado to Burgos because the weather forecast was for rain, rain, and more rain. I came here to walk, and walk I will! Besides, I need to prepare myself for walking Hadrians Wall next week and my guess is, it will likely rain there too

Belorado

Santo Domingo

I left Ciruena early in order to get to Santo Domingo in plenty of time to tour the church museum and possibly go to Mass. I arrived at 8:30, had a coffee and was able to attend mass in the little chapel beside the church. Afterwards, I went to the entrance to the cathedral museum to find, to my delight, it was open. I spent two hours learning about Santo Domingo and his dedication and devotion to improving the physical route for the pilgrims. Born in 1019, he came from humble surroundings and is said to have been a giant among men. He built a pilgrim hospital, now a Parador, and a church which has evolved over the years into a cathedral. Both are situated in the Plaza del Santo, and like many religious structures have been renovated over the centuries, therefore combining many architectural styles. I was so happy to have had the opportunity to wander the winding streets of this ancient town. Just before I made my way back onto the trail, I decided to get some cash out of one of the ATM's on the main street. I happened to run into three other pilgrims I had met the day before and was chatting with them. I got my money and off I went, wishing them "buen Camino"! ........ When I woke up, I decided not to have breakfast but to just make a start. I went to reception to pay my bill, opened my wallet to find that my bank card was not there. I remembered at that point how I was talking with the pilgrims at the ATM in Sto. Domingo and realised I must have left it there. I did not panic (what is the point in that?) I went into the bar and ordered a coffee and to ponder what I should do about this. What were the chances that someone would have turned it in to the bank? Pretty good, I thought as it is exactly what I would do if I saw a bank card left behind. I decided to find out if there was a bus back to Sto. Domingo and see. I had to wait an hour for the bus but it took only 10 min to get there (it would have taken 2-3 hours to walk). I got to the bank, and while I was waiting in line, I prayed that my journey was not for nothing, but knew whatever happened, I would be fine. My turn. I asked the man if he spoke English, he said no. I attempted to explain why I was there and he asked me if my name was Jennifer. I was thrilled! I showed him my passport and he handed over my bank card. Back to the bus station to find out that I had 2 hours to wait so I went back to the cathedral for a quick visit, had a cafe con leche in the sunshine, and got the bus back to Casteldelgado, where I had begun that morning. All was well. Yesterday is history, tomorrow a mystery and today is a gift - that is why itis called the present -- unknown