Day 9 - Back to Halifax

We have been staying in a place called Baddeck on Cape Breton Island. Baddeck is a tiny village situated on the northern shores of Bras d'Or lake. The name Baddeck is derived from the Mi'kmaq term "Abadak" which has been translated as "place with an island near". Baddeck is one of several Cape Breton communities that plays host to the Celtic Colours festival each fall. The music festival features hundreds of Celtic musicians from Cape Breton and around the world. And every night after they've played at the various venues, they have an "after party" that begins at 11pm and ends....well, let's just say they serve breakfast at the venue. Our hotel had a free shuttle service to the party and I was thinking what a fun thing that would be to do. But we had to get up early the next day and  I thought it would be too late. I met a young couple at the pub who convinced me to go with them and that I could take the shuttle back at 1:30. I decided to go for it thinking that wouldn't be too late and I could survive. I ended up taking the last shuttle back at 3:30 am arriving at the hotel at 4:00. All I can say is....it was worth it! The music was incredible - the fiddles, accordians, guitars, spoons, singing and of course, the foot stomping! I was so incredibly tired the next day but I would have always regretted it if I hadn't gone.

New Friends

We left Cape Breton Island bright and early and I must admit, I was a little sad. We stopped at Sugar Moon Farm and spent the morning at a charming log cabin where we were treated to a brunch of pancakes, biscuits with maple butter (Yum!!) sausages and of course, plenty of maple syrup. What a feast! We had a tour of the facility and met the family that runs the farm who told us about the unique organic methods they employ to produce the delicious maple syrup. Some things I did not know: Maple syrup only comes from the sugar maple trees which only grow in the East. 90% of all maple syrup is produced in Quebec and it takes approximately 40 litres of sap to make one litre of maple syrup! No wonder it's so pricey.

Sugar Moon Farm

Back to Halifax and the end of our tour. We had such a great time and it was hard saying goodbye to our new friends, our tour guide Chris and trusty (and patient) bus driver Brian. Mom and I went down to the pier for bit of shopping and a last dinner with Denny and Mary at "Salty's". Next part of the adventure begins with the first leg of our train journey all the way back to Vancouver.

Day 8 - Cape Breton Island and the Cabot Trail

Atlantic Coastline

Cabot Trail

We spent the day exploring the Cabot Trail and I fell in love with its rugged terrain and spectacular Atlantic Ocean views. The weather was not so good, a bit foggy, but it cleared from time to time and we were able to marvel at the stunning views. 

St. Peter's Church - Cheticamp

We stopped in Cheticamp for lunch and took a moment to peek into the famed St. Peter's Church and strolled the streets of this traditional village steeped in the vibrant culture of the "Old World" French. At the Acadian museum, we saw a demonstration of the traditional hooked rug. Years ago, I came across one at a antique shop in Victoria. I didn't pay much 
for it, but I liked it and appreciated the handiwork. It wasn't until I saw the hooked rugs here that I realized the value of this rug. I think I'll keep it forever! 

Neil's Harbour

On the way back we stopped at a lovely fishing community called Neil's Harbour. I loved the opportunity to walk around, take pictures and relished the beauty of the coastline that I have come to associate with the east coast of Canada.

I want to say a few words about the people we've met on this tour. Many are from the USA and I have to say, are some of the nicest and friendliest people I've ever met. There are Canadians also and a couple from England. There's Barbara and Ray from New Jersey, Pat from Spokane, Denny and Mary from Wisconsin...to name a few. And in Canada, Joan from Kelowna, Maria from Toronto, Judy and Joan from Alberta. Also, the people in the Maritimes are absolutely the warmest I've met during my travels. Right up there with the Liverpudlians! I had no idea that the rich culture, the fishing and farming, the Acadian history were so profoundly and authentically true to their reputation. Wonderful, wonderful people in Atlantic Canada!

Day 7 - Cape Breton Island

Today we left P.E.I. by ferry back to Nova Scotia across the Northumberland Straight. We drove over the Canso Causeway to Cape Breton Island. It was a stunning drive drive along the pristine shores of Bras d'Or Lakes, Canada's only inland sea. Spent a marvellous afternoon at the Alexander Graham Bell museum - it was a brilliant display of his life and his inventions and his dedication to helping people with hearing problems. It was fascinating....I had no idea!

Day 6 - Charlottown

Home of Lucy Maude Montgomery

My Mom is so cute!

A little old....but I may have found my farmer!

 

The earth is really brick red

Today we visited the Anne of Green Gables museum, the house in which Lucy Maude Montgomery lived and upon which she based her books. The property is still owned by the family and is still farmed - a lot of potatoes, mostly grown for french fries. The grounds surrounding the house are green and lush and exactly as she described them in her book. The soil is brick red and they grow the unusual blue potato which is actually a bright purple. We even got to help the farmer plant some in the garden!

Downtown Charlottown

Charlottown

We spent the afternoon in the seaside town of Charlottetown wandering around the town enjoying the old buildings and the quaint tree lined streets. We visited an old manor house overlooking the bay that has been restored. The history was interesting and evident with much of the old furnishings and dishes, beautiful. dinner at an Irish pub rounded off the evening perfectly.

Day 5 - Prince Edward Island

Confederation Bridge - Cavendish PEI

On to PEI, "Island cradled in the waves" and setting of the famous Anne of Green Gables by Lucy Maude Montgomery. Mom and I were struck by the beauty and pride taken in the rolling, lush green landscape. Everything is so well taken care of...the houses and yards, the farms and buildings so pretty to look at. A highlight of the day was passing over the stately Confederation Bridge into PEI - 13km long! You don't pay a toll to go into PEI, but you pay when you leave! I like it!

dipping my toes in the Atlantic Ocean

On to Cavendish where we headed down to the windy beaches of the Atlantic ocean in Cavendish National Park. I just had to put my feet in....it was not that cold, certainly no worse than Kootenay Lake. Then a quick stop at the village of Rustico and it's celebrated wharf dotted with fishing boats and lobster traps.

Avonlea

A visit to the quaint village of Avonlea where the buildings from Lucy Maude Montgomery's community of Long River were brought, erected and restored to recreate the fictitious town of Avonlea as depicted in the books.

Best oysters in the world!

Fresh today!

Acadian Musicians

We heard musicians play the piano, accordion, fiddle and guitar and then were treated to fresh oysters, the best in the world. Dinner was a traditional kitchen party complete with fresh lobster, mussels, oysters and, of course potatoes! And then the music! We have nothing like this in the west. Everything seems to be about the music and the stories told though it. It's truly wonderful.

Day 4 - The Bay of Fundy

Today we travelled to the Bay of Fundy and the sea sprayed shoreline to the amazing Hopewell Rocks, a New Brunswick icon. These magnificent sandstone rock flower pot formations carved by the Fundy tides rise 4 stories high at low tide and then disappear into tiny islands when the tide is high. This process happens every 6 hours and 13 minutes. We walked on the beach and took the mandatory photo in the "lovers arch".

Later we visited the Pays de la Sogouine Heritage Centre where we experienced a true celebration of Acadian history and culture. The woman who was our guide reminded me SO much of Mathilde Klassen both in mannerisms and enthusiasm. She left us with this message: The most important thing in life is to be proud of who you are and where you came from.....and PARTY!!!


She was great! Learning abou the history of the Atlantic coast has been so wonderful and I have a great appreciation for the Acadian culture and heritage. People worked hard, endured much hardship but always had time to enjoy life. Joie de Vivre, indeed!!

The famous "flowerpot" rock formations at Hopewell

Lovers Arch - Hopewell Rocks

La Pays de la Sagouin

First hand re-enactment of Acadian times

Day 3 - On to New Brunswick

Up early for our trip to New Brunswick. First stop was the Glooscap interpretive centre at Mik'maq where we learned about the first nations people whose history is recorded from 13000 years ago....I had no idea! The young men who ran the centre were knowledgable, keen and very passionate about their culture and people. It was beautifully laid out and most inspiring.

The next stop was the Olivier soapery near Moncton. We were thoroughly entertained by a woman who engaged us and showed us how they make soap with all natural ingredients including olive oil, beeswax, cocoa butter and essential oils. Everything was so beautiful and of course we had to buy some! I'm hoping my skin will improve.

The last part of the day was a fishing trip to see how lobsters are farmed, caught, cooked and eaten. What a treat this was! The boat was sturdy, the people who ran it were awesome and Captain Ron was very entertaining. I found it particularly fascinating to hear about the regulations surrounding the harvest as well as the "gentlemen's" agreement not to fish on Sundays. It's interesting how this is enforced, though no one is admitting to anything. The bottom line is they respect the sea and the generations past, present and future who have earned a living doing this noble profession. We each got a whole lobster to eat.....and you can literally eat almost all of this delicious crusteacion! Their method is to cook it in salted water then immerse in cold salted ice water and eating it just like that. Cold, no butter or sauces, just as it is. Another highlight, for sure.

Day 2 - Peggy's Cove

The Lighthouse at Peggy's Cove

We met up with our group at 8:30 this morning, there are about 43 of us, mostly from the USA. It seems like a great bunch of people. Mom is getting quite a kick out of the tour guide named Chris and totally appreciates that he speaks slowly and clearly and she can hear everything he says. Turns out he's a working Actor and lives in Calgary.

Peggy's Cove

We began the day with a trip to the famous "Peggy's Cove". I loved how unspoiled it is. There are no hotels or typical souvenir shops, only a few shops that sell handmade local art. We walked out to the lighthouse that rests on the huge granite rocks where you can walk nearly to the edge to see the waves crashing onto them. Magnificent! The cove itself is lined with small shake sided shacks in weathered pastels, all with a dock and a fishing boat that looks like its been well used. We could have spent days there. There are several opinions about why it is called Peggy's Cove and who exactly Peggy is. The village is likely named after Saint Margaret's Bay (Peggy being the nickname for Margaret) and the most popular legend claims that the name came from the sole survivor of a shipwreck at Halibut Rock near the cove. No doubt there are many stories to lay claim to the name of this famous and quaint little village.

Back on the bus and to the Halifax harbor where we scattered for lunch. We met a really nice woman from Kelowna named Joan and she is proving to be good company. We ate the best seafood chowder I've ever tasted and sweet fresh cornbread just out of the oven. A few of us decided to do the 100 year anniversary of the sinking of the Titanic at the maritime museum. It was fascinating learning about the part Halifax played in the role of taking in the deceased off the rescue boats and burying the unclaimed bodies in the cemetery here. We visited the unmarked graves, some of which were later identified even years later. There were stories of people who perished that night, whose names and memories live on after 100 years, leaving a significant mark on the history of this beautiful city.

On the Road Again

Kootenay Lake

It's been four months now since I arrived back in Canada and the time has flown by. Seriously, I don't know how that happens. In the first couple of weeks I kept myself busy with paying bills, banking, income tax and house stuff. The weather wasn't great so it was all okay. I also reconnected with family and friends on a daily basis going for coffee, walks and dinner. The weather turned gorgeous and I spent 6 weeks enjoying the perfect Kootenay summer...and I mean PERFECT! Day after day of sunshine and heat. Living by the lake means a swim every day; the water warmed up considerably and although most people would say it is freezing, it's really lovely and refreshing in the 30 temperatures. My last swim in the lake was Sept 28th!

So now that I'm back on my blog, I'm ready to write again, specifically about my most recent trip: a three week trip across Canada and to the Maritimes with my dear Mom.

Since my blog was not working the whole time we were away, I'm going to post the entries one at a time. The dates are off and it is written in the present because I kept a journal on my iPad as we were travelling. Here goes:

October 3, 2012
My mom and I decided to take a little trip together. I was thinking she meant a trip around the Kootenay's staying in B&B's and checking out the local artisans' work. Turns out, she always wanted to go across Canada on the train. I couldn't say no.

We flew to Halifax via Toronto and even though it is my moms least favourite thing in the world (flying) she took her drugs and despite a 2-1/2 hour delay sitting on the Tarmac in TO, we made it to Halifax safe and sound.
First day - a gorgeous warm sunny day so we walked down to the pier from our hotel, about a 30 min walk and were delighted with the smells, sights and sounds of a busy port and boardwalk on the seafront. We strolled along looking at the ships and taking in the little shops. Not too busy this time of year and we enjoyed every moment.

One of the highlights of today was a tour of the Alexander Keith's brewery on lower Water street, complete with actors in period costume singing and serving us their delicious ales. We ate the best seafood chowder ever at a restaurant called "Salty's" finishing up with an ice cream from the east coast favourite - Cows Ice Cream. Yum! This was the beginning of a most extraordinary culinary experience. I can say I ate my way through the Maritimes. Yikes!

Tomorrow we meet up with a tour group and begin a 10 day tour of the Maritimes. I'm so excited to learn more of this vast and rich country I call "home". For now.