I left very early this morning, arriving in Bahar Dair around 9:30am. I had arranged a driver and a guide (Kindu) to take me to the Blue Nile Falls and the monasteries on the peninsula. He greeted me with enthusiasm and since I was his only customer, took good care to ensue I had a good experience. We drove through the city to the lake where my hotel was; I dropped off my suitcase and off we went. It was a very hot day and the road was dusty and rough. We passed many people on their way to market, miles away. The men, draped in the traditional gabi carrying a stick across their shoulders, their thin spindly legs like sticks. The women, draped in their traditional dresses and natelas, carrying huge bundles on their heads, invariably a child strapped to their backs. We complain when we have to walk anywhere...I am struck by the searing contrast of my life.
The journey was hot and dusty, the road very rough. We passed a garbage dump with flocks of buzzards perched heavily on the branches of the trees, somehow managing to look majestic, waiting to dive down to eat something fleshy and dead. To keep them at bay, the men started burning the rubbish, acrid smoke filling the air.
The jaquaranda trees were in full bloom, the branches heavy with the mauve blossoms, like puffs of purple smoke standing out against the dry, brown landscape. I wanted to get closer so I could smell them, wondering if they even have a scent.
We drove through the village where the market took place, a busy, bustling hive of activity. Children running around, barefoot and ragged, goats and donkeys sometimes making it impossible to pass. We eventually got to the place where we met the local guide and began walking towards the falls. It was a moderate climb up into the hills, very hot and dusty. At one point I found myself thinking - here I am, in the middle of a strange country with two men I don't know, trusting that they will take me where I want to go. Again, as in so many times on my travels, I felt I was taken care of. The last bit was to cross a suspension bridge high above the rocky river bed, dry now until the rains come. I am terrified of heights but managed to cross by looking up and holding the hand of my trusty guide.
I knew that being the dry season the Blue Nile Falls would be underwhelming, but the landscape and beauty of the area was spectacular. I saw where the Blue Nile feeds into Lake Tana.
The next day we took a boat across the lake to the peninsula and onto what felt like an unspoiled remote island. Again, the warmth and smiles were so beguiling and I find myself pulled into the life there. I saw monkeys swinging and playing in the trees, tasted the juice from the ripe coffee beans, bought a small painting from a local artist who uses natural colours from the plants and flowers, took traditional, ceremonial tea, and had a tour of the 14th century church. When i think of all the magnificent churches i have seen along the way, I felt more at home in this humble and well loved church. This island was paradise to me and I am once again struck by the simplicity and appreciation for the environment the people live in. I want to live there!
Back to Addis where I was picked up at the airport by Ray and the boys. We had a lovely day lounging by the pool at the Sheraton and then an amazing last night dinner at an authentic Ethiopian restaurant which was so good, in fact best meal in Ethiopia. Saying goodbye to this little family was difficult for me as I grew very close to them all in the week we spent together. I think of them with great fondness and hope it won't be too long till I see them all again.
I wish I had more time to visit Gondor and Lalibela but I guess this just means I'll have to come back some day.
