The Hammam Experience

As I reread the last few posts, I realise how inadequate I am sometimes in describing my experiences. I find I am always rushing at the end of a day to get the facts down before I forget them, so I apologise for the lack of imagination.
After the hike in the mountains and the amazing lunch, we were given the opportunity to partake in a traditional Hammam steam bath, Moroccan style. We weren't given a whole lot of information other than it takes place in a steam room with a bunch of other women and you are given a scrub/massage with black soap. I was completely unprepared for what took place and I will do my best to describe it adequately. Bear in mind, it will be a bit graphic!
Upon entering, we were given a scrub mitt and a blob of black soap which looks a lot like automotive grease. We were told to take off our clothes, leaving on our bottoms, and were led into the steam room, a bare tiled room. It was warm and steamy and we sat down on the floor and awaited further instruction, surrounded by a number of equally unclad women of all shapes and sizes. I was very aware of our western discomfort with nudity. A large woman with the most enormous breasts I've ever seen, brought a bucket of hot water and proceeded to douse us, one at a time and then instructed us in Berber (and hand motions) to rub the soap on our bodies. She walked away, leaving us to it and I thought to myself that it seemed a bit lacking as I was expecting some sort of massage. Since the room was completely bare, we were left with nothing to look at except each other and the other naked women in the room who seemed efficient in their ablutions, scrubbing their skin and throwing water from buckets on themselves or each other. After a time, we decided we should do the same and we bashfully scrubbed each others' backs, not saying much. Eventually, big breasted woman came back and directed us over to the other side of the room, each of us in front of a large bucket of hot water. She began with Marina, scrubbing her arm and moving on to every part of her body, scrubbing with great vigor. She was quite rough and looking at Marina's face, I was guessing it wasn't terribly pleasant! At one point she roughly pushed her into a lying down position and proceeded to scrub every part of her body, lifting and pulling limbs as necessary. This went on for a good 20 minutes as we all sat there, trying not to watch, but knowing we were next. Since there were 6 of us, she left the room to bring in reinforcements and it was my turn. I felt like my skin was being ripped off, and indeed, it was. This was exfoliation taken to the extreme! Eventually, after she covered every inch of me, I got to rinse off with the steaming hot water. It felt amazing, but even better, my skin has never felt so soft. Finally, we emerged, squeaky clean and ready for a meal....and a large drink!

Todra Gorges

Another amazing experience. After the long drive out of the desert, we headed to the mountains and the birthplace of our young tour guide, Aziz. This was a very special experience as we were honoured guests at Aziz's family home, a small village in the low Atlas mountains called Todra Gorges. We got settled into our hotel, a lovely, quiet place nestled at the foot of the rocky mountains, towering majestically above. Again, the friendly hospitality of the Moroccans proved to make our stay more than enjoyable. We were served more of the delicious cuisine, all made with the local produce and spices. After dinner, as is customary, the drums come out and we join our hosts for music and dancing and sometimes Sheesha. I love this about the Moroccans...everyone is welcome no matter where you come from. It is also a way to keep warm as it was very cold and they do not have heating in the rooms so it makes sense to gather together and keep warm. It was a pretty early night as we would be hiking to the top of the mountain the next day. When we awoke, it was to pouring rain. I was pretty determined to carry on with the hike, hoping that the rain would let up. Only half of the group decided to go and I was very glad indeed that I persevered as it turned out to be an amazing experience. It took about 2 hours to get up to the top, the path was rocky and fairly steep with little vegetatn.  Atthe top, we visited a nomadic family who live in caves, subsisting in the harsh environment of the mountains.  They graciously made us tea, this time made from lemon sage which grows in abundance on the rocky mountainside. It is difficult to imagine living this way, but is an example of people who live simply and seem happy in this lifestyle. The family consisted of a father, age 72, with two wives and 12 children. They tend goats and chickens and when they need money, they go into the Market and sell a goat or trade some of their handwork for produce or goods.
We made our way down the steep and rocky path and to the home of Aziz' family to be hosted for lunch. They run a small restaurant with the best food I have had in Morocco! It was squash soup, Moroccan pizza accompanied by about 8 little side dishes of salsa, marinated veggies, lentils, flava beans, and olives. Absolutely incredible. Aziz has one sister and 8 brothers, a loving generous mother and father and we were warmly welcomed and treated with great respect. I was invited to return someday and stay at their home.
The next activity.....a traditional Hammam!