Thursday 31 May 2012

Twice Brewed, Greencarts, Heddon-on-the-Wall, Wallsend

At some point Foxy and I bought a bottle of brandy with which we continually filled our little tiny sample whisky bottles that Richard gave us on the second day. Came in handy for the last few days of cold weather and rain. It's amazing how a little bit of brandy can warm you up! The day started out bright and sunny and I went for an early morning walk with Henry just to warm up. Back at camp and Gary arrived with sausage butty's (only half a cherry tomato on each one...seriously, you'd think there was war rationings!) Still not happy with the tea situation. At Greencarts, however we did have use of the kitchen. We ordered a curry for our dinner that night, it was nice to just shower and not have to go out to eat. I took the liberty of filling up my hot water bottle and my thermos there.

During our morning orientation, Gary gave us explicit instructions on taking a photo of the ancient sicamore tree at the famous "Sicamore Gap". He did another little demonstration...Richard was the tree, Foxy, the person being photographed and I was appointed the photographer, nearly tripping over a tent rope, much to Gary's disapproval! Point was taken and when we got there, we duly took our positions and shot the photos as instructed. Undeniably, the most beautiful and visible remains of the wall, this was my favourite day. There were a lot of ups and downs, steep rock stair climbs offering incredible views from the top depicting clearly the rugged landscape of the north and the vibrant green pastures south of the wall. It was clear to see why the Romans chose this place to mark their territory. By now it was raining pretty heavily and we made it to Housesteads just in time to avoid the downpour. We took refuge in the British Heritage museum there and then carried on after a short break.

We said goodbye to Gary and Jack that morning as the next two nights were to be spent in a bunkhouse in Heddon-on-the-Wall. In beds. With sheets. And towels. And breakfast. This was the longest day of walking - 37.7km according to Lindy - further than any day I did on the Camino! We made the great mistake of stopping far too long at Chesters (museum, cafe) and were way behind schedule by the time we got going. I was quite anxious as I knew it was a long way. We ended up separating and walked the last5 hours alone that day. Foxy, Lindy, and Richard walked together. When I arrived at the Robin Hood Pub at 5:30, knowing I still had two hours to go, I texted them and told them to take a cab as they were about an hour behind me. Lindy took a cab with two other guys staying at the same place but Foxy soldiered on with Richard, arriving around 8:30. Boy were we glad to get to that bunkhouse!

Another working farm, we met Paula, the farmers wife who also looked after everyone at the bunkhouse. She was SO great. Henry and I went for a short walk in the morning and introduced ourselves to the horses which was so fun. It was pouring and I was already wet. I made tea for everyone (there was a full kitchen) and took it around on a tray. Then breakfast and on our way for the last day of walking through Newcastle to Wallsend. The forecast was for relentless rain all day. Since most of us were staying another night, we didn't have to pack up and we braced ourselves for the rainy day.  It was a reasonable 15miles and a very uneventful end as there wasn't even a plaque! We passed the museum, which indicated the end and had to backtrack! There were no signs, no fanfare and oddly, no Gary popping up to welcome and congratulate us! 

After meeting Lindy, we went to a grocery store and bought the makings of a meal. We returned to the bunkhouse and I cooked a huge spag bol and Gen made a beautiful salad. Henry and his dad left us a bottle of champagne to celebrate (they stayed in Newcastle that night with family). We had a great meal and prepared ourselves for the inevitable goodbyes that would come the next day. In the morning, Paula asked me if I wanted to help her feed the lambs before I left! It was so much fun! Lambs are the sweetest creatures of all. I just loved all the farm animals and talked endlessly with anyone who would take the time to tell me about life on a farm. I think I might want to be a farmers wife someday. Hmmmm. Once again, I had to say goodbye to people who I had come to love. It's really hard as these experiences are so intense and you do get very close. Fortunately for me Foxy lives in Liverpool so I can prolong my goodbye with her and I know I will see Lindy and Gen in Canada. The rest....well, never say never I say. We may meet again someday. Such is the life of the traveller and I shall never forget any of them. It was a highlight of my travels.

Me and my "snuggle pack"



Favorite day




We did it!!

Celebrating!