Sunday 13 November 2011

Morocco

Well, I made it to my destination and what a crazy day it was! Early start of 4:15 to get to the airport by 5:30, flight at 7:45. All good. I arrived in Marrakech on time and got through customs no problem. Got to an ATM and found the bus to take me to the train station. So far so good. I met a young man from USA who was also going to the train stn and even taking the same train but going to Rabat. As it happens when travelling, you become fast friends very quickly. When we got to the train stn, it was just before 1:00 and I thought I would have just enough time to get my ticket and get on the train. We were met by huge crowds lining up for tickets and the kind of chaos one finds in a busy, economically challenged city such as this.we got in line, knowing the next train was scheduled for 3:00 and I hoped it would be on time. In the line up, we met another young man from Belgium who was stopping in Casablanca and who could speak French as well. I decided to stick to him like glue. Turns out he was a very nice guy and he helped me out enormously. At 2:15, a porter started yelling and whistling for everyone to line up for the train. I thought this was a little odd but along came the train and Jerome, who has been here for a month, told me to get up to the front and push my way in. There were hundreds of people on the platform and I was feeling a little claustrophobic. There are compartments that hold 8 people comfortably but we had 12 in ours. The windows wouldn't open and it was very hot and stuffy. People kept crowding onto the train and here we waited until 3:00 when we finally started moving. It was interesting to see the Moroccans dressed in wool coats and many women in full burkas. I couldn't imagine how hot they must have been.
It became clear that I was not going to make it to my hotel by 6:00 so I asked Jerome to call my hotel (at £1.75 per min!) and leave a message for my tour leader that I would be late. We didn't get to Casablanca until nearly 8:00 and it was absolute madness getting off the train! There were people and baggage everywhere, even in the aisles and we had to step over them with our bags, shoving our way through out into the dark platform. I needed to negotiate the petit cab and again, Jerome came to the rescue. It was insane! No seatbelts and I prayed I would make it to the hotel alive. Jerome and I parted ways amidst the chaos and noise, having exchanged emails on the train. We lost Mike on the platform getting on the train and didn't see him again.
When I got to my hotel, everyone had gone out for dinner but the host didn't know where. He gave me directions to a nice restaurant "around the corner". I set out, acutely aware that I was a very White woman walking alone in a busy city and felt for the first time on my travels, a little nervous. A lot of men tried to speak to me but I ignored them and did not make eye contact, almost turning around, but I had not eaten since a coffee and yogurt at 6:30 this morning and was starving. I kept going and ended up at a really nice quiet place where I had a beautiful lamb and couscous dinner. The waiter spoke French and kept coming back to my table and kept repeating the words "après" and "bise". I finally figured it out - he wanted to meet me afterwards and kiss. Needless to say, I got the hell out of there fast and he followed me to my hotel - I think to make me think he was getting me there safely. I finally shook him off and got to my hotel safely. Eventually I met my team, briefly, and am now in my room, safe and sound and ready to explore Marrakech in the daytime!