Musings

It's amazing how time slips by without you even noticing it. I've been in Liverpool nearly two weeks now. This past week was half term and everyone was off school. As it often is, at the beginning of a week off, it seems like you have time to do all the things you want to do and at the end of the week you realise the list was rather longer than you thought. I feel the same way with my time in Liverpool. 've had a good week though and have been doing the things I've  wanted to do. I love walking on the beach-it seems to go on forever, sort of like Tofino and Vancouver island. Sort of. One of my favourite things is the "Iron Man" exhibition by Antony Gormley entitled "Another Place". 100 life sized iron men spread across 3kms of Crosby beach facing out to the sea. Here is the link: http://www.sefton.gov.uk/default.aspx?page=6216, you must check it out...though you can't get the power of it unless you see it for real. I was walking there one evening at dusk and though I was almost the only person there, it felt eerily as though I wasn't alone. I never get tired of looking at them, they are unusual and fascinating.
A funny thing happened the other day. I was on my way to the beach and decided I needed my hair trimmed so I stopped in at a hair salon on South Rd near my Aunt's place. I settled in to the chair and asked for a quick trim. The young woman commented on my accent and asked me where I was from. When I told her, she said "I have an aunt who lives there", and, naturally, I asked her which part of Canada. She said she really didn't know. After a pause she asked me "where is Canada"? I was stunned and when I regained my composure I asked her if she knew where the United States was and she said, yes, is it near there? Bless. Though she may not be the brightestest girl I've ever met, she was smart enough to charge me £12 quid for a 5 minute trim!

Endless cups of tea!

It's true. A cup of tea seems to make everything better. Whether you've already had 2, or 5, or 10, when someone says "shall I put the kettle on"? the answer is always yes. I don't know what it is that makes the tea here so good. It could be the water, or the fact that the electricity is 220w which makes the water seem to boil even more fiercely than at home. Or it could be the milk because everything dairy is just better here. Whatever it is, I am always up for a cuppa.
Now, onto other travel plans. I have booked a trip to Morocco from Nov 13 to 27th which is pretty exciting. I'll be landing in Casablanca and ending up in Marakesh. Activities include camping in the desert and riding camels. I have decided to change my ticket home and will be staying here longer because, well, I just don't have a reason not to really. I feel like I have this amazing opportunity to travel the world. I'm relatively unencumbered and just feel like this is the right thing to do. I am a bit homesick at times..... I miss my kids, my friends and my Georgie boy, but I know everyone understands and supports me.
I spend my days with my family, walking on the beach and going to the gym. Today I ran 5km.
I am very blessed to have my aunt and uncle put me up so graciously and I am enjoying my time with them immensely. Just need to sort out a visit with Arlene now and after that.....who knows!

Hanging Out in Liverpool

It is Friday afternoon and I have spent the day doing nothing. I signed up at the gym with my cousin Mel and went yesterday for two hours. It was great to know that I am in good shape and it felt really good to move my body after a week of the sedentary life. My plan is to go every day if I can. I am researching my options for travel now - so much choice! It's a little overwhelming, well, everything is these days. I just feel like I should be walking! And where the hell are those damn yellow arrows when you really need them!?
It's been great being in Liverpool staying with my aunt and uncle Sue and Terry, and seeing my cousins and Aunt Angela every day. The weather is cold and I had to buy a winter jacket yesterday as I really didn't pack properly for post-Camino weather. I wandered around Liverpool yesterday and really enjoyed Bold Street and lunch with my cousin Gemma. I am beginning to feel itchy and need to move on to the next trip. I have some ideas, so keep reading...
I am feeling a little bit blue...homesick for my kids I think. It seems so long ago since I've seen them and haven't spoken to them since I left for Spain. I will try calling this weekend so if you are reading this Sarah, Robbie, and James, make sure you answer your phones when you see "unknown number" on your call display!
Not too much else to report other than a nice evening last night with Phil (my cousin Mel's husband) and their friend Chris. We went to a couple of pubs and listened to some live music. Tonight I'm going over there for curry and then this weekend my other cousin William and his wife Anne and their children are coming up from London for a visit. It will be great seeing them. I hope to make a plan to go to Bristol to see Arlene before my next trip.
I need to go for a long walk so I'm going to sign off and get outside.
Lots of love to all
Jena

Post Camino transition

Back in Liverpool again. I was met at the train station by my lovely Aunties Susie and Angela and it was soooo lovely to see them. Susie, Terry and I shared a bottle of bubbly (my second glass of the day) and we had a delicious dinner. I put my washing in and put on some clothes I had left here and realizeed how much weight I must have lost.  This is all good, but I am no longer walking 25km a day!  Maybe my cousin Mel will take me to the gym with her every day while I'm here.
I know this transition is going to be difficult. The simplicity of life on the Camino is over and I find myself thinking about other things again. The trick is to keep reminding myself of the things learned there that I want to retain and hope that people can cope with the changes in me. I miss very much the people I met and became so close with in such intense and unusual circumstances. I am in touch with a few and look forward to seeing Arlene and hopefully Lewis in Bristol soon.
I thoroughly enjoyed my time in Santiago. I couldn't stop gazing at the magnificent cathedral and found myself drawn back to the chuch square again and again, gazing up at it's grand stature, smiling as new batches of pilgrims made their emotional entrance into the square. Perhaps I felt a spiritual connection, knowing that so many pilgrims over so many centuries had come to this very place after a long and incredible journey. It's a feeling I hope I never forget.
So now I will begin researching the possibilities that lie before me.
Keep reading...... I will keep writing.

The end of the earth

I went to Finisterra yesterday with Arlene, and the three English people I met on the first day of walking: Rita, Ken and Carmel. We decided to rent a car instead of taking the bus and I think it was a good thing to do in the end. God bless Arlene, the only person who had her drivers license with her, for driving. We had a gps unit (Kate) in the car and even then it was a bit crazy getting out of the city. Once we got out on the highway though, Kate sent us up into the mountains, away from the coast, but it turned out alright in the end as we were rewarded with stunning views of the whole coastline. Again, it was hot, sunny and clear and as we made our way down the mountain and to the coast we were swept up in the beauty of it all. We made it to Finisterra and had a little walk around the town and then went for lunch at one of the many restaurants on the sea front. Afterwards we went up to the lighthouse and took many photos. There is a long tradition of pilgrims going to Finisterra and burning all their clothing so as to cleanse themselves in both body and spirit before turning back and making the long journey home. Now, it is a very touristy place and no burning is allowed! We had to settle for absorbing ourselves in the stunning views of the beautiful coastline - it was blissful being by the sea again, inhaling it´s salty, sweet scent.
Back to Santiago and one last evening with my good friend Arlene. She is so amazing and such a gift from my Camino experience. We laughed, we cried, we shared many moments walking, eating, drinking and sharing as if we´d known each other for years. She is a gem and I am so blessed to have met her. The only thing that prevented me from crying my eyes out is that I know I will see her again in the UK before I go home.
I have decided to go back to Liverpool on Monday. I am feeling a little overwhelmed with my experience and feel the need to re-group before making further travel plans. I feel good about this and even though Barcelona would be amazing, I feel like I have plenty of time to come back to Spain if I want to later. The weather here continues to be sunny and hot - today it was 36 degrees!! Hard to leave this country...
So, two more nights at the Parador (!!!) - I heard someone call me a "Paradonna", which I thought was very fitting. I could have moved to another hotel, or, God forbid the Alburgue, but hey, I´ll only turn 50 once and I might as well milk it for all it´s worth.
Stay tuned, I will continue to write about my journey. I appreciated all the beatiful emails I received for my birthday from all who took the time to email or comment. Thank you.

Santiago

I must start this blog entry from yesterday morning when I left Arco de Pino, the last day of walking, a mere 20km. I left just before 7am as I wanted to get to the Church before noon so I could go to Mass. It was dark, and would be for about an hour and a quarter and I walked alone. Several amazing things happened this day - the moon was full, or nearly, and my path was lit by moonlight. The first part of the walk was through a forest of eucalyptyse (sp) trees and in the moonlight, they were utterly beautiful. I felt absolutely no pain anywhere. I saw, for the last time, the sun rise in the mountains of Galecia, a fine morning mist settled in the valley. I did not walk alone for long as I kept meeting other Pilgrims I knew. We spoke a few words, walked together for a bit, but moved at our own pace, in our own thoughts. I contemplated the end of the journey and the last day I would walk and marvelled at how far I have come.
There is a hill just before Santiago called the ¨hill of tears¨ or ¨hill of Joy¨ which is about 5km from the centre of the City. From the top, you can see the city and just make out the tops of the two steeples of the Cathedral. When I stood there, I kept thinking of the medieval pilgrims who had walked for months, or even years to reach their destination and I understood why it was named so.
I walked the last 10km or so with Sylvie from Quebec and Samantha from Ireland, two women I have met recently. Winding our way through the modern part of the city and then into the old part with the signature cobbled narrow streets, I had a feeling of urgency....I wanted to get there, I desperately wanted to see the Cathedral. I was uprepared for the emotion I felt when I walked down through the portal into the square. The magnificence of the Cathedral is awe-some and I wept when I saw it. It was another beautiful sunny day, not a cloud and just the right temperature. I couldn´t take my eyes off the cathedral and looked up, tears of joy in my eyes. Joy, because of the sheer magnitude of the building; Joy, because I had completed something I set out to do. I felt such emotion and and a burst of energy unlike the usual exhaustion at the end of the walk.
We got there about 5 past noon and did not go into the church. Instead, we stayed and took some photos of ourselves in front of the church and then went and had something to eat and drink at one of the cafes. We all felt a little numb and didn´t quite know how to express our feelings. I checked into my hotel, had a shower and went back into the square to meet and greet the many fellow pilgrims who had arrived the day before. It was a lot of hugging and congratulating each other, photos, laughter, and exclamations: "we did it"!!! We all agreed to meet in the square at 7pm that evening and make dinner plans, like we did every night for the past few weeks.
I had decided to treat myself to a night at the Parador, a five star hotel right on the square. The history is that it was always a place for Pilgrims to stay and it has now been transformed into a luxury hotel. I cannot describe the beauty of it adequately. I could not believe they let me in in my bedraggled, sweaty, state and did my best to cover any signs of bed bug bites as I entered the building. After I checked in, the porter asked me if he could take my¨"bag" to which I replied: "I´ve carried this pack nearly 800kms, and don´t mind carrying it a few more meters!" I have a huge room overlooking one of the gardens with a water fountain. It is completely over the top and I must say I felt only slightly guilty as I settled myself in.
I went to the office where I was to receive my compostella - a document written in latin to say I had completed the Camino de Santiago. Even my name was written in Latin and the young man was impressed that I had started my journey from St. Jean PDP. When he looked at my passport with all the stamps I had received over the past 5 weeks, he said I had come a long, long way and congratulated me sincerely. I know it´s only a piece of paper, but I felt very proud at that moment.
We all met in the square as planned and there was more celebrating, hugging, congratulating, and photos. There must have been 40 people who had all had some kind of contact over the past few weeks. It was very emotional and moving, especially to realize that most of us will not see each other again. We decided to have dinner at a hotel around the corner - a beautiful monastary that has been turned into a hotel and served, what was for most of us, our last Pilgrim meal.
Later, we met at one of the cafe bars and continued to drink toasts to each other and say goodbye to some people who were moving on the next day. At midnight, there were a few stragglers who wished me a happy birthday and I think I finally got back to my hotel around 1am where I poured myself a long, hot, bubble bath. Delicious!
This morning I woke up and met Sylvie and Samantha, also staying at the Parador, for breakfast. I ate caviar and drank champagne on my 50th birthday! It was beautifully extravagant! Later, I went to the church and sat in the splendor of the Cathedral for a while before Mass began. At the beginning, they list all the countries that the Pilgrims had come from and who had received their Compostellas the day before. The organ played magnificently and a nun sang so beautifully...very moving...more tears. If you know anything about the church you may know that there is a huge incense burner that is hoisted from the ceiling of the church. At the end of Mass, the priests stand on either side and swing it from side to side on a thick rope, frankencense buring and filling the church with its sweet scent. I love the smell of that incense and it was a spectacular sight to see.
My friend Arlene took me out for a birthday lunch of salad, clams, and roasted pimentos (my favourite spanish dish) and we walked around the city all afternoon, stopping for a beer and doing our laundry! She is a good friend and I will go and see her in Bristol at some point before I return home.
Tonight, whoever is left will meet again in the square and we will decide where to go for dinner. I´m hoping to drink white wine and eat Pulpo, a specialty of Galecia.
Tomorrow I will go to Finisterra and then make travel plans for Barcelona for a couple of days before going back to Liverpool. I am starting to feel that my Camino has come to an end but am realizing, perhaps it is only the beginning. I feel a great sense of peace. The past couple of years have been so difficult and painful and I  have felt enormous loss and grief in so many ways. But I have survived and have come out the other side stronger, richer, and more at peace with myself. I still don´t know what I will do with my life and I don´t know exactly what the message for my Camino is yet, but I know it will come to me when the time is right. My only job is to make sure I am listening so I will hear the message.

I DID IT!!!!!

Just a quick note to say that I made it! I know you were all pulling for me and I felt the energy when I entered the Cathedral square. I am going to write more later today as I am going to go into the church now to sit for a while before mass starts at noon. I woke up this morning in the Parador and am staying one more night. This experience continues to overwhelm me.
Stay tuned.....a big blog entry is coming...!

One more day

Only one more day of walking left - 20km to Santiago. As I was walking today I became aware that my journey is nearly over. Life goes back to ¨normal¨ for most people after spending a day or two in the city and possibly going on to Finisterra. I need to start making plans now as to what I will do next. Í can´t believe I did this. When I think back to the first night I spent at the Chemin d Espirit in St. Jean Pied de Port, it feels like a year ago! And now, I am only 20km from my destination. I have walked nearly 800kms. So, Santiago. I ponder what this means to me. It is the end of a journey, a goal realized, a completion of something I set out to do. It was a physical challence, an emotional journey, a spiritual quest. The spiritual part I have not yet realized. Perhaps when I get there it will be more clear. Some say it is weeks before you get the full message of your Camino.
There will be many of my friends in Santiago for a few days to help me celebrate my birthday. Some, I met very early on and many I have met since Leon. Some have gone home but will be there with me in spirit. I feel so blessed to have met so many wonderful people. I must write about three men I met recently - Antonio and Massimo from Italy and Jamie from Mexico. They have travelled together since St. Jean and are fondly referred to as ¨the three tenors¨because of their snoring in harmony! Apparently it is quite the orchestra! Though I adore them,  I have successfully managed to avoid sleeping with them!
Another person I want to mention is a young man named Lewis from London. I met him after Leon as well. He is 24 and such a kind, funny, sweet young man. Reminds me a bit of James. He cooked for me when I was feeling unwell. He is travelling on his own and has made many friends along the way and I am blessed to know him.
When you go to bed tonight, know that I will be just beginning the last 20km of my pilgrimmage.
Pray for me, that I make it!
J

Time

Time seems to stand still here on the Camino. Another really hard day today (you´d think this would get easier) as I have very low energy with my tummy bug. Cannot eat anything but have been drinking tea and lots of water. It´s the best I can do. I was hoping that by now it would have resolved so may have to go to the doctor. With only two more days of walking, I feel like just putting up with it. It was a beautiful walk today though, with rolling hills and then, of course, a good 2km steep hill at the very end. I´ve got some choice words for Brierly when I am finished with this! The first 20km are enjoyable and no problem and always the last 5km are so hard. Everything aches from the hip down, and I just want to stop. It is at this point when I am more aware of my thoughts and try to distract myself with thinking about, praying for, people I love and miss. Eventually, when I am sure I can´t take one more step, I get to my destination and make a decision about where I am to stay. After a shower, a drink, and a rest, all the pain is forgotten.
I was walking for a bit today with a guy named Peter from Australia. He had an interesting thought: he thinks that westerners are so active that they simply can´t be still and quiet to meditate. The Camino is a thing of physical endurance but every single step is like a meditation. You will never take that one step again, and the next one gets you closer to your destination. I could relate to this.
I need to start thinking about what I am going to do when I get to Santiago. I thought about walking to Finisterra, but will see how I´m feeling. I have many friends waiting for me or arriving the same day and we will have a great celebration. There is a festival on the 12th, the day I will arrive, but I will go to Mass on the 13th and then make plans for Finisterra. I may go to Barcelona for a few days after that and then back to Liverpool to make plans for the next step of my journey. Lately, I´ve been thinking a lot about India.......
I hope these blogs are somewhat interesting to you..I seem to be focussing a lot on my physical condition, mostly because it is impossible to describe the profound beauty of what surrounds me each day. I have taken loads of photos, many of ancient buildings, churches, and bridges. The history is so interesting and I love reading about the places I´ve been. After all this time though, it´s all melding together and I´m having trouble remembering which place I´d been and what happened there.
I know that I am walking when you all are sleeping, but please remember to think of me and send me good wishes on ¨The Way¨.

Palas de Rei

Only a few minutes to write so I´ll try and be brief. The sun continues to shine through the bucolic hills of Galicia. There was a beautiful fine mist this morning and it cleared to a crisp, cool morning of walking. I must say I will remember the ¨smell¨of walking in Galicia....cow and pig manure. Speaking of smells....I think I have taken on a unique odour myself that is not so pleasant either! Handwashing My clothing just doesn´t do the job.
I have noticed a huge increase in the number of people starting out in the morning. A steady stream of Peregrinos steadfastedly and purposfully following the yellow arrows. At least there is less liklihood of me getting lost. I have picked up some kind of tummy bug and have been unable to eat much over the last three days except tea and toast. This is nowhere near what I need to consume in order to walk as much as I do. It is hard going as I notice my energy dwindling. I´m going to try and eat something now and just pray that I do not spend the night twisting and turning with stomache cramps! I can´t believe the amount of physical challenges I have had with this journey. My body is strong, muscles etc, no aches or pains there, but all these other problems have been such a drag.
Only three more days of walking unless I decide to walk to Finisterra which is another 100k or so. Please keep sending me your encouraging emails....
Buenos Tardes!

Countdown

With about 100km to go and only 5 more days of walking left, I am feeling a bit nostalgic already. What will I do with nowhere to walk, and, more importantly, how will I cope without the ubiquitous yellow arrow to tell me where I am to go? I feel like I could just live this life. It is so simple and surreal. I don´t have to worry about anything and my only purpose is to walk to the next village or town. I love Spain. It is so beautiful and sometimes I feel like I could remain here in some tiny little village with the sun shining and all my most basic needs met.
Lately, I have been thinking about what it means to be Happy. I think the true state of happy-ness is something we only get moments of in life. When you are experiencing a moment of happiness, it is so blissful, so keenly felt that I don´t believe we could stay in that state forever. I think the goal should be that we are aware of those moments and we say them out loud: I am happy right now, in this moment. Instead, we tend to look for the elusive state of being ultimately and consistently Happy all the time, and we don´t notice when it happens.
I have had moments of such happiness on my Camino and I have said it outloud each time I realize I am in that state of pure happiness. I cling to those memories as they are what will provide me with what I need to keep my Camino alive and attempt to live my life in a more simple and open way.
So many people I have met, each with their own ¨Camino¨, each with their own story. I bless all these pilgrims as they have come to this with open minds and hearts, and have most likely felt both the pain and the bliss of this extraordinary experience.
After Sarria, it is about 100km to Santiago. In order to acquire your Compostela, you actually only have to walk the last 100km. I expect the road will become very busy as more and more people join the last leg of the journey. I will arrive in Santiago on Oct. 12 and will likely see many people I have met along the way who will celebrate with me on the 13th. I must begin to decide what I will do afterwards but still, I remain for the most part, in the moment. I cherish these last days and trust that I will find my way after Santiago.
But now I am hungry and need to go and eat.
Blessings,

Long, but beautiful day

Today was the day I climbed the next big mountain. Acutally, I decided to do most of it yesterday and the rest today, but it seemed like the climbs would never end today. La Faba turned out to be a really great place - a tiny hamlet, high in the mountains run by a German confraternity. Nice and clean and a big kitchen to cook in. I am travelling with another group of people and I particularly like Arlene, from Bristol who I have befriended. She is about my age and we seem to have a lot in common. She has made me feel very welcome. There were about 15 people who pooled our resources and cooked a huge pot of pasta and a risotto. Plenty of wine, and lots of laughs. At 8:00, there was a special service at the little church for all the pilgrims so I decided to go. A franciscan brother led the service and a woman translated in German and English. He lit a candle lantern and pàssed it around, telling us to think of somone or something that was special and important to us on the Camino. It was very moving as the lights were dim and it was completely quiet. He then washed the feet of one of the pilgrims and asked her to wash the feet of another, and so on. It was very special. After that, he did a blessing and we all stood around the alter together. It made me realize that though we come from so many different countries, on the Camino, we are all the same. I think of this quite often. He left us with this thought: "if you go home and merely tell stories about your experiences on the Camino, you haven't really done the Camino. You have to change something and keep it with you forever". I will think about this as I keep walking.
There are people waiting to use the computer so I will sign off for now.....and take a rest.

Oh the shame...!!!!!

After I had a shower I took out my sleeping bag and laid it out on my bed. I decided to have a little rest for half and hour and then went out to sit at a cafe and write. I met some new people and we were chatting when I found a bunch of little itchy bumps on my shoulder. I got Gerry (from Ireland) to have a look and he said he thought it was what I dreaded it to be. Yes. I have bed bugs. Gerry and I came back to the albergue, my head hung in shame, admitting to my haeneous crime. The young man and woman who run the place gave me two big plastic bags and told me to pack up everything that can be washed and bring it down to the laundry. Everyone in the dorm was looking at me and I felt so embarassed. God Bless Gerry, who came with me and helped me. I have to have everything washed, even what I am wearing and it will cost me 5 euros per load! They can´t wash my pack but they can spray it with something. I feel like my whole body is covered in bites (it isn´t) and that there are bugs crawling all over me (there aren´t). Now I have to hang around here until some clothes are ready for me to wear.
I feel like crying.....but I´m not going to.
This too, shall pass.

Bed bugs.....?

I have some red spots on my arms and am wondering if they are bed bugs. Not itchy, but quite red. I will air out my sleeping bag and wash everything in my pack in a machine. I have checked all my stuff and don´t see any sign of any black dots so I´m hoping it is just the sun. Yesterday the temperature was 34 degrees in Ponferrada. I decided to stay there because there is a medieval castle (1200ad) and I really wanted to go through it. I totally forgot that on Mondays everything is closed in Spain and since I never know what day of the week it is, I didn´t get to go in. I was quite disappointed so when into yet another cathedral. The one in Ponferrada is quite special as it has very strong links to the Templar knights and has attained the lofty status of a Basillica. It was quite beautiful, but not so grand as others I have seen.
I walked 26km today to Villafranca, just at the foot of the next mountain to climb - O´Cebrera. Tomorrow is supposed to be over 30km to the top but there are a few little villages before that which I think I will consider. I read that O´Cebrera is not a great place to stay and this will shorten the walk a little and since it is all uphill, will be quite hard. I am realizing how strong I am getting as the hills are so easy for me now and I can keep my regular pace. I stop often to take photos and breathe......
On the other side of the mountain, I leave the province of Castille d´Leon and enter Galecia. Apparently, this is where there is a very good white wine - Albarino - which you must eat with octopus. My friend Juan Jo from Spain has been a good guide and translator for me. I met him yesterday and we are having dinner again together tonight. Again, I pledge to learn Spanish!
Most of the time I walk alone. I prefer it right now as I am needing to let my thoughts be what they are. After leaving the meseta, I am enjoying being in the mountains again. So many people complained about the meseta but for me it was a rich and beautiful time. I believe the transition is necessary to the process of the Camino and I am so happy I was able to do it all at once.
There are very few people I know now as I am either ahead of or behind the people I originally started out with. I met two Polish men today and they were fascinated that I had come from so far away and all alone.
My boots and my feet seem to have made peace with each other and most of my blisters are healed. This is a great blessing as I realize how much harder it was to walk now that they are better. I bless them every morning.
Now, two people waiting for the computer so I must close.
Love to all
J

In the Mountains again

So I am once again in the mountains and today was at the highest point I will get to on the Camino - 1505m. The views were indescribable. I stayed in Foncebadon last night, a funky little place only 2km from the Cruz de Ferro. My plan was to leave in the morning and get to the cross at sunrise. Didn´t work out exactly as planned, but it was perfect in the end. I left my stone, sat on the rocks and thought about the "burden" I was leaving there. My thoughts at that point are very personal so won´t put them down here, but know that it was an emotional and profound moment in my journey.
After that I carried on to the top and then began the decsent down to the next village - Acebo. When you are walking, and if you are able to stay present you don´t think about what is coming. All of a sudden, you turn a corner or crest a hill and you see the inevitable church steeple, telling you that you have arrived in the next village. It was hard going down the mountain (only half way down) as it was a very steep and rocky path. When I got to the village, I sat down and had a glass of fresh squeezed orange juice and sat on the patio. The views were stunning and I am so happy to be in the mountains. The air is clear and fresh. And then I saw the sign for rooms and made the decision to stop here. In doing so, I know I will leave the people I have met recently, but it´s okay. I feel like having more alone time.
I passed a sign today that said 222km to Santiago. When I looked at this, I realized that I have walked over 500kms! I am strong, yes I am! I am doing something really amazing and brave and I realize that it took a lot of guts for me to do this on my own. So many people questioned my decision to do this alone. The fact is, you are never really alone. There are people ahead of me, behind me, and sometimes beside me. And this is much like my life. I walk alone, but amidst much love from all the people who believe in me and honor who I am.  I am choosing to slow down so as to be in the mountains a little bit longer. Tomorrow it is a short day - only about 22km to Ponferrada.
So here I am, sitting in a little hostel with a room that is clean, comfortable and all mine! The sun is shining, my clothes are drying and I´ve had a cervesa con limonada on the patio. A little luxury for a humble pelegrino who desperately needs to shave her legs!