I went to Finisterra yesterday with Arlene, and the three English people I met on the first day of walking: Rita, Ken and Carmel. We decided to rent a car instead of taking the bus and I think it was a good thing to do in the end. God bless Arlene, the only person who had her drivers license with her, for driving. We had a gps unit (Kate) in the car and even then it was a bit crazy getting out of the city. Once we got out on the highway though, Kate sent us up into the mountains, away from the coast, but it turned out alright in the end as we were rewarded with stunning views of the whole coastline. Again, it was hot, sunny and clear and as we made our way down the mountain and to the coast we were swept up in the beauty of it all. We made it to Finisterra and had a little walk around the town and then went for lunch at one of the many restaurants on the sea front. Afterwards we went up to the lighthouse and took many photos. There is a long tradition of pilgrims going to Finisterra and burning all their clothing so as to cleanse themselves in both body and spirit before turning back and making the long journey home. Now, it is a very touristy place and no burning is allowed! We had to settle for absorbing ourselves in the stunning views of the beautiful coastline - it was blissful being by the sea again, inhaling it´s salty, sweet scent.
Back to Santiago and one last evening with my good friend Arlene. She is so amazing and such a gift from my Camino experience. We laughed, we cried, we shared many moments walking, eating, drinking and sharing as if we´d known each other for years. She is a gem and I am so blessed to have met her. The only thing that prevented me from crying my eyes out is that I know I will see her again in the UK before I go home.
I have decided to go back to Liverpool on Monday. I am feeling a little overwhelmed with my experience and feel the need to re-group before making further travel plans. I feel good about this and even though Barcelona would be amazing, I feel like I have plenty of time to come back to Spain if I want to later. The weather here continues to be sunny and hot - today it was 36 degrees!! Hard to leave this country...
So, two more nights at the Parador (!!!) - I heard someone call me a "Paradonna", which I thought was very fitting. I could have moved to another hotel, or, God forbid the Alburgue, but hey, I´ll only turn 50 once and I might as well milk it for all it´s worth.
Stay tuned, I will continue to write about my journey. I appreciated all the beatiful emails I received for my birthday from all who took the time to email or comment. Thank you.
Saturday, 15 October 2011
Thursday, 13 October 2011
Santiago
I must start this blog entry from yesterday morning when I left Arco de Pino, the last day of walking, a mere 20km. I left just before 7am as I wanted to get to the Church before noon so I could go to Mass. It was dark, and would be for about an hour and a quarter and I walked alone. Several amazing things happened this day - the moon was full, or nearly, and my path was lit by moonlight. The first part of the walk was through a forest of eucalyptyse (sp) trees and in the moonlight, they were utterly beautiful. I felt absolutely no pain anywhere. I saw, for the last time, the sun rise in the mountains of Galecia, a fine morning mist settled in the valley. I did not walk alone for long as I kept meeting other Pilgrims I knew. We spoke a few words, walked together for a bit, but moved at our own pace, in our own thoughts. I contemplated the end of the journey and the last day I would walk and marvelled at how far I have come.
There is a hill just before Santiago called the ¨hill of tears¨ or ¨hill of Joy¨ which is about 5km from the centre of the City. From the top, you can see the city and just make out the tops of the two steeples of the Cathedral. When I stood there, I kept thinking of the medieval pilgrims who had walked for months, or even years to reach their destination and I understood why it was named so.
I walked the last 10km or so with Sylvie from Quebec and Samantha from Ireland, two women I have met recently. Winding our way through the modern part of the city and then into the old part with the signature cobbled narrow streets, I had a feeling of urgency....I wanted to get there, I desperately wanted to see the Cathedral. I was uprepared for the emotion I felt when I walked down through the portal into the square. The magnificence of the Cathedral is awe-some and I wept when I saw it. It was another beautiful sunny day, not a cloud and just the right temperature. I couldn´t take my eyes off the cathedral and looked up, tears of joy in my eyes. Joy, because of the sheer magnitude of the building; Joy, because I had completed something I set out to do. I felt such emotion and and a burst of energy unlike the usual exhaustion at the end of the walk.
We got there about 5 past noon and did not go into the church. Instead, we stayed and took some photos of ourselves in front of the church and then went and had something to eat and drink at one of the cafes. We all felt a little numb and didn´t quite know how to express our feelings. I checked into my hotel, had a shower and went back into the square to meet and greet the many fellow pilgrims who had arrived the day before. It was a lot of hugging and congratulating each other, photos, laughter, and exclamations: "we did it"!!! We all agreed to meet in the square at 7pm that evening and make dinner plans, like we did every night for the past few weeks.
I had decided to treat myself to a night at the Parador, a five star hotel right on the square. The history is that it was always a place for Pilgrims to stay and it has now been transformed into a luxury hotel. I cannot describe the beauty of it adequately. I could not believe they let me in in my bedraggled, sweaty, state and did my best to cover any signs of bed bug bites as I entered the building. After I checked in, the porter asked me if he could take my¨"bag" to which I replied: "I´ve carried this pack nearly 800kms, and don´t mind carrying it a few more meters!" I have a huge room overlooking one of the gardens with a water fountain. It is completely over the top and I must say I felt only slightly guilty as I settled myself in.
I went to the office where I was to receive my compostella - a document written in latin to say I had completed the Camino de Santiago. Even my name was written in Latin and the young man was impressed that I had started my journey from St. Jean PDP. When he looked at my passport with all the stamps I had received over the past 5 weeks, he said I had come a long, long way and congratulated me sincerely. I know it´s only a piece of paper, but I felt very proud at that moment.
We all met in the square as planned and there was more celebrating, hugging, congratulating, and photos. There must have been 40 people who had all had some kind of contact over the past few weeks. It was very emotional and moving, especially to realize that most of us will not see each other again. We decided to have dinner at a hotel around the corner - a beautiful monastary that has been turned into a hotel and served, what was for most of us, our last Pilgrim meal.
Later, we met at one of the cafe bars and continued to drink toasts to each other and say goodbye to some people who were moving on the next day. At midnight, there were a few stragglers who wished me a happy birthday and I think I finally got back to my hotel around 1am where I poured myself a long, hot, bubble bath. Delicious!
This morning I woke up and met Sylvie and Samantha, also staying at the Parador, for breakfast. I ate caviar and drank champagne on my 50th birthday! It was beautifully extravagant! Later, I went to the church and sat in the splendor of the Cathedral for a while before Mass began. At the beginning, they list all the countries that the Pilgrims had come from and who had received their Compostellas the day before. The organ played magnificently and a nun sang so beautifully...very moving...more tears. If you know anything about the church you may know that there is a huge incense burner that is hoisted from the ceiling of the church. At the end of Mass, the priests stand on either side and swing it from side to side on a thick rope, frankencense buring and filling the church with its sweet scent. I love the smell of that incense and it was a spectacular sight to see.
My friend Arlene took me out for a birthday lunch of salad, clams, and roasted pimentos (my favourite spanish dish) and we walked around the city all afternoon, stopping for a beer and doing our laundry! She is a good friend and I will go and see her in Bristol at some point before I return home.
Tonight, whoever is left will meet again in the square and we will decide where to go for dinner. I´m hoping to drink white wine and eat Pulpo, a specialty of Galecia.
Tomorrow I will go to Finisterra and then make travel plans for Barcelona for a couple of days before going back to Liverpool. I am starting to feel that my Camino has come to an end but am realizing, perhaps it is only the beginning. I feel a great sense of peace. The past couple of years have been so difficult and painful and I have felt enormous loss and grief in so many ways. But I have survived and have come out the other side stronger, richer, and more at peace with myself. I still don´t know what I will do with my life and I don´t know exactly what the message for my Camino is yet, but I know it will come to me when the time is right. My only job is to make sure I am listening so I will hear the message.
There is a hill just before Santiago called the ¨hill of tears¨ or ¨hill of Joy¨ which is about 5km from the centre of the City. From the top, you can see the city and just make out the tops of the two steeples of the Cathedral. When I stood there, I kept thinking of the medieval pilgrims who had walked for months, or even years to reach their destination and I understood why it was named so.
I walked the last 10km or so with Sylvie from Quebec and Samantha from Ireland, two women I have met recently. Winding our way through the modern part of the city and then into the old part with the signature cobbled narrow streets, I had a feeling of urgency....I wanted to get there, I desperately wanted to see the Cathedral. I was uprepared for the emotion I felt when I walked down through the portal into the square. The magnificence of the Cathedral is awe-some and I wept when I saw it. It was another beautiful sunny day, not a cloud and just the right temperature. I couldn´t take my eyes off the cathedral and looked up, tears of joy in my eyes. Joy, because of the sheer magnitude of the building; Joy, because I had completed something I set out to do. I felt such emotion and and a burst of energy unlike the usual exhaustion at the end of the walk.
We got there about 5 past noon and did not go into the church. Instead, we stayed and took some photos of ourselves in front of the church and then went and had something to eat and drink at one of the cafes. We all felt a little numb and didn´t quite know how to express our feelings. I checked into my hotel, had a shower and went back into the square to meet and greet the many fellow pilgrims who had arrived the day before. It was a lot of hugging and congratulating each other, photos, laughter, and exclamations: "we did it"!!! We all agreed to meet in the square at 7pm that evening and make dinner plans, like we did every night for the past few weeks.
I had decided to treat myself to a night at the Parador, a five star hotel right on the square. The history is that it was always a place for Pilgrims to stay and it has now been transformed into a luxury hotel. I cannot describe the beauty of it adequately. I could not believe they let me in in my bedraggled, sweaty, state and did my best to cover any signs of bed bug bites as I entered the building. After I checked in, the porter asked me if he could take my¨"bag" to which I replied: "I´ve carried this pack nearly 800kms, and don´t mind carrying it a few more meters!" I have a huge room overlooking one of the gardens with a water fountain. It is completely over the top and I must say I felt only slightly guilty as I settled myself in.
I went to the office where I was to receive my compostella - a document written in latin to say I had completed the Camino de Santiago. Even my name was written in Latin and the young man was impressed that I had started my journey from St. Jean PDP. When he looked at my passport with all the stamps I had received over the past 5 weeks, he said I had come a long, long way and congratulated me sincerely. I know it´s only a piece of paper, but I felt very proud at that moment.
We all met in the square as planned and there was more celebrating, hugging, congratulating, and photos. There must have been 40 people who had all had some kind of contact over the past few weeks. It was very emotional and moving, especially to realize that most of us will not see each other again. We decided to have dinner at a hotel around the corner - a beautiful monastary that has been turned into a hotel and served, what was for most of us, our last Pilgrim meal.
Later, we met at one of the cafe bars and continued to drink toasts to each other and say goodbye to some people who were moving on the next day. At midnight, there were a few stragglers who wished me a happy birthday and I think I finally got back to my hotel around 1am where I poured myself a long, hot, bubble bath. Delicious!
This morning I woke up and met Sylvie and Samantha, also staying at the Parador, for breakfast. I ate caviar and drank champagne on my 50th birthday! It was beautifully extravagant! Later, I went to the church and sat in the splendor of the Cathedral for a while before Mass began. At the beginning, they list all the countries that the Pilgrims had come from and who had received their Compostellas the day before. The organ played magnificently and a nun sang so beautifully...very moving...more tears. If you know anything about the church you may know that there is a huge incense burner that is hoisted from the ceiling of the church. At the end of Mass, the priests stand on either side and swing it from side to side on a thick rope, frankencense buring and filling the church with its sweet scent. I love the smell of that incense and it was a spectacular sight to see.
My friend Arlene took me out for a birthday lunch of salad, clams, and roasted pimentos (my favourite spanish dish) and we walked around the city all afternoon, stopping for a beer and doing our laundry! She is a good friend and I will go and see her in Bristol at some point before I return home.
Tonight, whoever is left will meet again in the square and we will decide where to go for dinner. I´m hoping to drink white wine and eat Pulpo, a specialty of Galecia.
Tomorrow I will go to Finisterra and then make travel plans for Barcelona for a couple of days before going back to Liverpool. I am starting to feel that my Camino has come to an end but am realizing, perhaps it is only the beginning. I feel a great sense of peace. The past couple of years have been so difficult and painful and I have felt enormous loss and grief in so many ways. But I have survived and have come out the other side stronger, richer, and more at peace with myself. I still don´t know what I will do with my life and I don´t know exactly what the message for my Camino is yet, but I know it will come to me when the time is right. My only job is to make sure I am listening so I will hear the message.
I DID IT!!!!!
Just a quick note to say that I made it! I know you were all pulling for me and I felt the energy when I entered the Cathedral square. I am going to write more later today as I am going to go into the church now to sit for a while before mass starts at noon. I woke up this morning in the Parador and am staying one more night. This experience continues to overwhelm me.
Stay tuned.....a big blog entry is coming...!
Stay tuned.....a big blog entry is coming...!
Tuesday, 11 October 2011
One more day
Only one more day of walking left - 20km to Santiago. As I was walking today I became aware that my journey is nearly over. Life goes back to ¨normal¨ for most people after spending a day or two in the city and possibly going on to Finisterra. I need to start making plans now as to what I will do next. Í can´t believe I did this. When I think back to the first night I spent at the Chemin d Espirit in St. Jean Pied de Port, it feels like a year ago! And now, I am only 20km from my destination. I have walked nearly 800kms. So, Santiago. I ponder what this means to me. It is the end of a journey, a goal realized, a completion of something I set out to do. It was a physical challence, an emotional journey, a spiritual quest. The spiritual part I have not yet realized. Perhaps when I get there it will be more clear. Some say it is weeks before you get the full message of your Camino.
There will be many of my friends in Santiago for a few days to help me celebrate my birthday. Some, I met very early on and many I have met since Leon. Some have gone home but will be there with me in spirit. I feel so blessed to have met so many wonderful people. I must write about three men I met recently - Antonio and Massimo from Italy and Jamie from Mexico. They have travelled together since St. Jean and are fondly referred to as ¨the three tenors¨because of their snoring in harmony! Apparently it is quite the orchestra! Though I adore them, I have successfully managed to avoid sleeping with them!
Another person I want to mention is a young man named Lewis from London. I met him after Leon as well. He is 24 and such a kind, funny, sweet young man. Reminds me a bit of James. He cooked for me when I was feeling unwell. He is travelling on his own and has made many friends along the way and I am blessed to know him.
When you go to bed tonight, know that I will be just beginning the last 20km of my pilgrimmage.
Pray for me, that I make it!
J
There will be many of my friends in Santiago for a few days to help me celebrate my birthday. Some, I met very early on and many I have met since Leon. Some have gone home but will be there with me in spirit. I feel so blessed to have met so many wonderful people. I must write about three men I met recently - Antonio and Massimo from Italy and Jamie from Mexico. They have travelled together since St. Jean and are fondly referred to as ¨the three tenors¨because of their snoring in harmony! Apparently it is quite the orchestra! Though I adore them, I have successfully managed to avoid sleeping with them!
Another person I want to mention is a young man named Lewis from London. I met him after Leon as well. He is 24 and such a kind, funny, sweet young man. Reminds me a bit of James. He cooked for me when I was feeling unwell. He is travelling on his own and has made many friends along the way and I am blessed to know him.
When you go to bed tonight, know that I will be just beginning the last 20km of my pilgrimmage.
Pray for me, that I make it!
J
Monday, 10 October 2011
Time
I was walking for a bit today with a guy named Peter from Australia. He had an interesting thought: he thinks that westerners are so active that they simply can´t be still and quiet to meditate. The Camino is a thing of physical endurance but every single step is like a meditation. You will never take that one step again, and the next one gets you closer to your destination. I could relate to this.
I need to start thinking about what I am going to do when I get to Santiago. I thought about walking to Finisterra, but will see how I´m feeling. I have many friends waiting for me or arriving the same day and we will have a great celebration. There is a festival on the 12th, the day I will arrive, but I will go to Mass on the 13th and then make plans for Finisterra. I may go to Barcelona for a few days after that and then back to Liverpool to make plans for the next step of my journey. Lately, I´ve been thinking a lot about India.......
I hope these blogs are somewhat interesting to you..I seem to be focussing a lot on my physical condition, mostly because it is impossible to describe the profound beauty of what surrounds me each day. I have taken loads of photos, many of ancient buildings, churches, and bridges. The history is so interesting and I love reading about the places I´ve been. After all this time though, it´s all melding together and I´m having trouble remembering which place I´d been and what happened there.
I know that I am walking when you all are sleeping, but please remember to think of me and send me good wishes on ¨The Way¨.
Sunday, 9 October 2011
Palas de Rei
Only a few minutes to write so I´ll try and be brief. The sun continues to shine through the bucolic hills of Galicia. There was a beautiful fine mist this morning and it cleared to a crisp, cool morning of walking. I must say I will remember the ¨smell¨of walking in Galicia....cow and pig manure. Speaking of smells....I think I have taken on a unique odour myself that is not so pleasant either! Handwashing My clothing just doesn´t do the job.
I have noticed a huge increase in the number of people starting out in the morning. A steady stream of Peregrinos steadfastedly and purposfully following the yellow arrows. At least there is less liklihood of me getting lost. I have picked up some kind of tummy bug and have been unable to eat much over the last three days except tea and toast. This is nowhere near what I need to consume in order to walk as much as I do. It is hard going as I notice my energy dwindling. I´m going to try and eat something now and just pray that I do not spend the night twisting and turning with stomache cramps! I can´t believe the amount of physical challenges I have had with this journey. My body is strong, muscles etc, no aches or pains there, but all these other problems have been such a drag.
Only three more days of walking unless I decide to walk to Finisterra which is another 100k or so. Please keep sending me your encouraging emails....
Buenos Tardes!
I have noticed a huge increase in the number of people starting out in the morning. A steady stream of Peregrinos steadfastedly and purposfully following the yellow arrows. At least there is less liklihood of me getting lost. I have picked up some kind of tummy bug and have been unable to eat much over the last three days except tea and toast. This is nowhere near what I need to consume in order to walk as much as I do. It is hard going as I notice my energy dwindling. I´m going to try and eat something now and just pray that I do not spend the night twisting and turning with stomache cramps! I can´t believe the amount of physical challenges I have had with this journey. My body is strong, muscles etc, no aches or pains there, but all these other problems have been such a drag.
Only three more days of walking unless I decide to walk to Finisterra which is another 100k or so. Please keep sending me your encouraging emails....
Buenos Tardes!
Friday, 7 October 2011
Countdown
With about 100km to go and only 5 more days of walking left, I am feeling a bit nostalgic already. What will I do with nowhere to walk, and, more importantly, how will I cope without the ubiquitous yellow arrow to tell me where I am to go? I feel like I could just live this life. It is so simple and surreal. I don´t have to worry about anything and my only purpose is to walk to the next village or town. I love Spain. It is so beautiful and sometimes I feel like I could remain here in some tiny little village with the sun shining and all my most basic needs met.
Lately, I have been thinking about what it means to be Happy. I think the true state of happy-ness is something we only get moments of in life. When you are experiencing a moment of happiness, it is so blissful, so keenly felt that I don´t believe we could stay in that state forever. I think the goal should be that we are aware of those moments and we say them out loud: I am happy right now, in this moment. Instead, we tend to look for the elusive state of being ultimately and consistently Happy all the time, and we don´t notice when it happens.
I have had moments of such happiness on my Camino and I have said it outloud each time I realize I am in that state of pure happiness. I cling to those memories as they are what will provide me with what I need to keep my Camino alive and attempt to live my life in a more simple and open way.
So many people I have met, each with their own ¨Camino¨, each with their own story. I bless all these pilgrims as they have come to this with open minds and hearts, and have most likely felt both the pain and the bliss of this extraordinary experience.
After Sarria, it is about 100km to Santiago. In order to acquire your Compostela, you actually only have to walk the last 100km. I expect the road will become very busy as more and more people join the last leg of the journey. I will arrive in Santiago on Oct. 12 and will likely see many people I have met along the way who will celebrate with me on the 13th. I must begin to decide what I will do afterwards but still, I remain for the most part, in the moment. I cherish these last days and trust that I will find my way after Santiago.
But now I am hungry and need to go and eat.
Blessings,
Lately, I have been thinking about what it means to be Happy. I think the true state of happy-ness is something we only get moments of in life. When you are experiencing a moment of happiness, it is so blissful, so keenly felt that I don´t believe we could stay in that state forever. I think the goal should be that we are aware of those moments and we say them out loud: I am happy right now, in this moment. Instead, we tend to look for the elusive state of being ultimately and consistently Happy all the time, and we don´t notice when it happens.
I have had moments of such happiness on my Camino and I have said it outloud each time I realize I am in that state of pure happiness. I cling to those memories as they are what will provide me with what I need to keep my Camino alive and attempt to live my life in a more simple and open way.
So many people I have met, each with their own ¨Camino¨, each with their own story. I bless all these pilgrims as they have come to this with open minds and hearts, and have most likely felt both the pain and the bliss of this extraordinary experience.
After Sarria, it is about 100km to Santiago. In order to acquire your Compostela, you actually only have to walk the last 100km. I expect the road will become very busy as more and more people join the last leg of the journey. I will arrive in Santiago on Oct. 12 and will likely see many people I have met along the way who will celebrate with me on the 13th. I must begin to decide what I will do afterwards but still, I remain for the most part, in the moment. I cherish these last days and trust that I will find my way after Santiago.
But now I am hungry and need to go and eat.
Blessings,
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