I left Ciruena early in order to get to Santo Domingo in plenty of time to tour the church museum and possibly go to Mass. I arrived at 8:30, had a coffee and was able to attend mass in the little chapel beside the church. Afterwards, I went to the entrance to the cathedral museum to find, to my delight, it was open. I spent two hours learning about Santo Domingo and his dedication and devotion to improving the physical route for the pilgrims. Born in 1019, he came from humble surroundings and is said to have been a giant among men.
He built a pilgrim hospital, now a Parador, and a church which has evolved over the years into a cathedral. Both are situated in the Plaza del Santo, and like many religious structures have been renovated over the centuries, therefore combining many architectural styles. I was so happy to have had the opportunity to wander the winding streets of this ancient town. Just before I made my way back onto the trail, I decided to get some cash out of one of the ATM's on the main street. I happened to run into three other pilgrims I had met the day before and was chatting with them. I got my money and off I went, wishing them "buen Camino"!
My intent was to walk to walk to Viloria de la Rioja where I had heard there was a really great alburgue. I passed Casteldelgado for the last 5km to Viloria del a Rioja, population 70. When I arrived an hour later, I found myself in a ghost town. The tiny village had only one place to stay....which turned out to be closed for the weekend. Rotten luck for me as by then I was tired, my feet ached and I was ready to stop. There was nothing else to do but to turn around and go back to Casteldelgado where I ended up staying in a hotel by the side of the road. What I didn't know was that it was a truck stop and frequented mostly by men. I had dinner in the restaurant and made my way up to my room only to find I was being followed by a spaniard with ulterior intentions! Apparently it is not unheard of for "ladies of the evening" to frequent these places. Somehow I must have pulled off this look but heaven only knows how he could reach that conclusion given my pilgrim appearance. Despite all this, I had a good sleep in a room by myself in a real bed with sheets and a shower with real towels. Lovely. When I woke up, I decided not to have breakfast but to just make a start. I went to reception to pay my bill, opened my wallet to find that my bank card was not there. I remembered at that point how I was talking with the pilgrims at the ATM in Sto. Domingo and realised I must have left it there. I did not panic (what is the point in that?) I went into the bar and ordered a coffee and to ponder what I should do about this. What were the chances that someone would have turned it in to the bank? Pretty good, I thought as it is exactly what I would do if I saw a bank card left behind. I decided to find out if there was a bus back to Sto. Domingo and see. I had to wait an hour for the bus but it took only 10 min to get there (it would have taken 2-3 hours to walk). I got to the bank, and while I was waiting in line, I prayed that my journey was not for nothing, but knew whatever happened, I would be fine. My turn. I asked the man if he spoke English, he said no. I attempted to explain why I was there and he asked me if my name was Jennifer. I was thrilled! I showed him my passport and he handed over my bank card. Back to the bus station to find out that I had 2 hours to wait so I went back to the cathedral for a quick visit, had a cafe con leche in the sunshine, and got the bus back to Casteldelgado, where I had begun that morning. All was well. Yesterday is history, tomorrow a mystery and today is a gift - that is why itis called the present -- unknown
My intent was to walk to walk to Viloria de la Rioja where I had heard there was a really great alburgue. I passed Casteldelgado for the last 5km to Viloria del a Rioja, population 70. When I arrived an hour later, I found myself in a ghost town. The tiny village had only one place to stay....which turned out to be closed for the weekend. Rotten luck for me as by then I was tired, my feet ached and I was ready to stop. There was nothing else to do but to turn around and go back to Casteldelgado where I ended up staying in a hotel by the side of the road. What I didn't know was that it was a truck stop and frequented mostly by men. I had dinner in the restaurant and made my way up to my room only to find I was being followed by a spaniard with ulterior intentions! Apparently it is not unheard of for "ladies of the evening" to frequent these places. Somehow I must have pulled off this look but heaven only knows how he could reach that conclusion given my pilgrim appearance. Despite all this, I had a good sleep in a room by myself in a real bed with sheets and a shower with real towels. Lovely. When I woke up, I decided not to have breakfast but to just make a start. I went to reception to pay my bill, opened my wallet to find that my bank card was not there. I remembered at that point how I was talking with the pilgrims at the ATM in Sto. Domingo and realised I must have left it there. I did not panic (what is the point in that?) I went into the bar and ordered a coffee and to ponder what I should do about this. What were the chances that someone would have turned it in to the bank? Pretty good, I thought as it is exactly what I would do if I saw a bank card left behind. I decided to find out if there was a bus back to Sto. Domingo and see. I had to wait an hour for the bus but it took only 10 min to get there (it would have taken 2-3 hours to walk). I got to the bank, and while I was waiting in line, I prayed that my journey was not for nothing, but knew whatever happened, I would be fine. My turn. I asked the man if he spoke English, he said no. I attempted to explain why I was there and he asked me if my name was Jennifer. I was thrilled! I showed him my passport and he handed over my bank card. Back to the bus station to find out that I had 2 hours to wait so I went back to the cathedral for a quick visit, had a cafe con leche in the sunshine, and got the bus back to Casteldelgado, where I had begun that morning. All was well. Yesterday is history, tomorrow a mystery and today is a gift - that is why itis called the present -- unknown
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