Astorga

I am staying at an Albergue that holds about 125 people. I´ve managed to get into a semi private room with 3 other women so it should be a quiet night. This is a great city but because I didn´t arrive until later today, had very little time to explore. It was a 32km day and the last 3km was gruelling in the 32degrees heat. I had dinner at a fancy hotel with my friend Eric, a singer-dancer from NYC. He thinks I´m FABULOUS! We had a nice evening together and he is determined to be in Santiago for my birthday.
So many amazing people I have met. Two nights ago I ran into a couple from Vernon BC whom I had met earlier on. They are really nice but I hadn´t had a chance to spend much time with them until the other night. Linda shared that her camino is about grieving the loss of her son less than a year ago. She told the story of his sudden illness and death and that he was 41 and left behind a wife and three young children. She cried openly and I so appreciated her sharing her grief. It made me think of my mom and how strong she is and how much she would have been able to relate to this woman.
I am finding that we get very close very quickly with people and you take the moment you have because you may never see this person again. It is a rich and beautiful experience.
Tomorrow I go to Rabanal, only 21km. I am considering going a bit further as the next day is 31km and is up to the Cruz de Ferra, the place where I will leave my stone.
I feel good. Blessed. Happy.

Leon

Last night I decided to stay at the Alburgue run by the nuns. It was interesting. Normally, you have to be in by 10pm but this one was 9:30. It was a very crowded and busy place and I got a bed on the bottom bunk. I heard a lot of people talking about bed bugs but they had fumigated the place that day so I was´nt too worried. I got myself ready for bed and then all of a sudden a little nun came through the place clapping her hands and telling everyone to come with her. I got out of bed, threw on my shorts and followed, no idea what was happening. We all filed into a small room for evening prayers and there were little books in all different languages so we could follow along. This took about 20 minutes and I thought we were done. Then, she opened two big doors that led into the church and we all filed in. I sat near the front and as is common in some of these old churches, there is a space at the front separated by iron gates where the clergy or nuns sit. All of a sudden, about 20 nuns filed in 2 or three at a time, like penguins. They were so cute! They began the evening prayers in Spanish, or latin I think and I just listened and enjoyed the warm feeling of the moment. Then one of the older nuns began to sing. It was so beautiful as she had a clear and perfect voice. It brought tears to my eyes and I just embraced it all. After that, there were a few more prayers, lots of standing up and stitting down, and then a woman who worked there came to the front and named the countries of all the pilgrims that night. There must have been 25 different countries! At the end, there was the pilgrim blessing, wishing us a good journey to Santiago. It was beautiful. The other good thing about this albergue was that the men and women were separated and even though there were 30 or 40 people in my room, there was NO Snoring!! I had a pretty good sleep.
I´ve discovered that my least favourite part of this whole thing is going into and leaving a big city. Sometimes it takes 1-2 hours. Leon was not well signed and I really had to pay attention and look at a map. Because it is now dark until nearly 8am, it is impossible to do this in the light of day. Anyway, I made it out onto the quiet road and walked a mere 23km today.
Since I spent a day in Leon, I have lost my original travel group for the most part. I have met new people already and feel okay about spending some time alone now. Tomorrow is a long day - 32 km to Astorga, a slightly bigger city.
I am more than half way to my destination and am considering walking to Finisterra, another 100km if all is well. We´ll see when I get to Santiago.
Tonight I am staying at a private Albergue for 7 euros and 9 euros for a delicious home cooked meal. I ate together with new people, Rudy, Guillia, and a German guy whose name I can't remember, and it was nice. Salad, squash soup, and paella. I think I will go to bed early and make a start around 7am. Blisters are healing, new ones cropping up....this is how it is meant to be for me.
I hope all is well with you all at home,
Jena

I cán´t say enough about OLIVES!

Now that I am resting in Leon, I have a little more time to write. There is an internet cafe with lots of computers and no one breathing down my neck. I´m hearing that a  lot of people are unable to leave comments on the blog. If anyone can post something about how to do it, that would be great. Robbie....?
It is so good to hear from you all....encouraging words that make me feel more connected to home. I generally know what time it is but have no idea what day or date it is. I just know I´ve been walking for about 20 days.
Last night I stayed un a luxurious hotel with my two Belgian friends, Francis and Roger. Only on the Camino is it okay to spend the night with two men I didn´t know until I started this journey! I had a the greatest luxury of a bubble bath, completely losing myself in the warmth, smell and the clean white towels. Bliss! We met some other friends from California for dinner as it was R & F´s last night. I think they will complete it next year. Strange to be so connected to people you never knew before and know that you may never see them again. Never say never....
I am staying in the Albergue tonight, again sleeping with 20 or so people. This one is by donation and run by the nuns. They do a beautiful evening service and pray for all the Pilgrims (Pelegrinos). Tomorrow I will walk again and I think it is a long one, about 28kms. Working our way back into the mountains and perhaps a change in weather. It continues to be beautiful and sunny every day.
The food in Spain is interesting. I eat olives every day, sometimes even for breakfast. They are so good!! I bought a small bag this morning at the market and I think they were the best ones yet, so I went back and bought more! I am always thinking about what I must carry in my pack. Even the smallest items can add up and believe it or not, I feel the difference.  I am getting a little tired of the Pelegrino menu: as it is always the same no matter the city or town, but only costs 9 or 10 euros and includes all the wine you want to drink. You have a choice between Pasta, ensalada mixta, garlic soup and maybe asparagus for your starter and then meat, fish, or eggs for your main. Every dish comes with french fries. I have found a nice change is to go for tapas and share with other people. It´s enough food and is almost always good. Beyond that, I take some fruit and yogurt drink on the road and usually drink a beer when I get myself settled in my place.
The church in Leon is magnificent. I went in briefly yesterday when I arrived and will go back in today. Therey are countless outside cafe´s surrounding the square where one can sit and drink, read, write, and watch people. This will be my afternoon and then an early night and hopefully not too many snoring people!!
Since I am staying a day in Leon, I will lose track of some of the people I have been travelling with but I´m sure I will meet more. Seems that is my way.
Will write again soon.
PS. Did I mention the olives.....???

The Meseta continues....

Now in a very small but lovely town about a day and a half from Leon. I think I will stop in Leon for a day of rest and then carry on to the next mountains. It is a little chilly in the mornings but still very hot during the day. They say it is unusual for this time of year, but I am grateful we do not have rain. I now have a cold - sleeping with 20 or more people every night it is not surprising. Its not too bad though but a drag nevertheless. It is very flat where I am walking now and close to the highway so not very exciting at all. The last two days had stretches of 12-18 km with no place to stop so I had to be very prepared. Still not much of an appetite during the day so I eat mostly fruit and drink lots of water. My clothes are quite baggy so I must be losing weight. It is so interesting to hear people speak in so many different languages. Primarily Espanol in these small towns, everyone is trying so hard to communicate. Today I went into the little bar where I am staying and asked for a bottle of water and a glass with some ice. I got that, and then the young man put a small plate of tapas down as well. I wasn´t hungry so I said no, just agua....he shrugged his shoulders and looked a little disappointed. The woman standing beside me said, I think he wanted to give you the tapas for free. I felt so bad! so I tried to communicate no comprendo....He smiled.
On my bucket list I have added one more item; to learn Spanish!!! I have met people who speak 3 or 4 languages well enough to communicate their needs and have a conversation. So impressive.
I have countless stories like this and will bore you all to tears when I return. But the moments on this journey for me will never be forgotten.
Today when I was walking, my blister was really hurting. I started thinking about my Dad working in his garden and how much joy he got from that. I felt his warm companionship, just as I always had with him and before I knew it, my blister had stopped hurtimg. I know he was walking with me.
These are the gifts of the Camino.

Blog is working!

Finally my blog is working. Thanks Robbie for trying to help.
I have been dying to write and let you know that I am fine and still walking....There is so much to tell and I have been writing in my diary instead so I don´t forget anything. It is still very hot here but much cooler in the mornings when I set out. It is also darker and I usually walk an hour or so in darkness or little light. Yesterday I left Castrojirez early and climbed to the top of a steep hill just in time to see the sun rise. It was incredible! I am now in Carrion and in the middle of the Meseta, what some people say is the most boring part of the Camino. I find that it is necessary in the experience as it is a time for thought and reflection instead of the beauty around me. When I walk, I am constantly aware of my body and how it feels. I have never been so aware of every little thing that gives me discomfort or pain. My blisters are finally healing after two days´rest in Burgos and I am now walking again and hoping they don´t flare up again. My body is strong and fit and I feel healthy otherwise.
I do not think of home. I am in the moment always. In the early part of this journey, I was constantly looking ahead to see what was around the next corner. Would it be another hill? Would there be shade? Or would it be down a rocky path...? I realize this is much like how I live my life, constantly wondering what comes next and what plans I must make. I do not look ahead now, I walk because I am here and there are gifts every day...even in the Meseta.
I have met so many people and hear so many different languages every day. Some people have gone on past me and some are behind but I am always so surprised and delighted to see someone I have shared something with along the way, whether it was an hour of walking, a room in an albergue, or a meal later in the day. I found my first friend Anna in Burgos (the woman who walked over the Pyrenees with me). We lost each other for quite a long time and then there she was! I was delighted to see her again and exchange emails. She is home in Paris now. Other friends will finish in Leon and others will go on to Santiago. I wonder who I will see wen I get there.....
My days consist of getting up early and re-packing my belongings into my pack, making sure I have enough water and that I have not left anything important behind. I have exactly what I need right now - no more, no less. I walk until 1 or 2pm, following the book as closely as I can, and then look for a place to stay when I arrive, hot, sweaty, dusty, stinky and tired, ready to rest my weary legs and feet. It is especially joyful when I take my boots off! I take a shower, unpack my bag, wash my clothes and then lie down for an hour or so. Afterwards I go and look for a place to eat and meet friends and share the stories of the day. In bed by 10pm, and in the words of Dylan Thomas "say a few words to the close and holy darkness¨, and then I sleep.
It is impossible to adequately describe this experience. It is full of pain at times, and joy at other times. When I meet people for the first time, there are three questions I ask: Where are you from? What is your Camino? and, How are your feet?! We are all the same, walking the road together, each with a different purpose, but sharing the same experience. There were times in the beginning that I did not think I could do this, but now I know I can. I am committed. I am happy walking alone or with people and I gratefully accept whatever the Camino brings to me. I am open to the gifts, the pain, the joy and the beauty of it all. For me, perhaps this journey is a journey of grace and thankfulness.
I will write again soon,
with much love to all
Jena

Los Arcos....a long day in the sun

I haven´t written for a while as it is often hard to get onto the computer at the end of the day in the refugios. Last night, I stayed in a terrible one, it was not clean and very hot. many beds in a huge room so lots of snoring! Tonight I am staying in a newer one with only 6 beds to a room and breakfast included. I have made many friends along the way but will be parting ways with them tomorrow as I will not be able to walk 30k with my bad blister. It seems the Camino is telling me to slow down and take more time. I will have to cut this short as lights out has passed but there is a football game on so they are letting some of the guys stay up and watch the game. Anyway, this is very hard and I am discouraged with my blister but still hoping it will eventually heal. I am prepared to stay one more night in Logrono if necessary. The weather is blistering hot and today there was no shade at all. Rewards are the incredible scenery, the old monastery´s and medival buildings and churches you pass by and today was the day of the wine fountain which I drank from at 8.00 am! I am so hot I have totally lost my appetite during the day and can only manage a cafe con leche and some fruit. Sometimes the cafes offer fresh squeezed orange juice which I happily take part in! Tonight my friend Frances from Belgium and I cooked a meal for some of the people staying here. It was so much fun and we drank wine and talked till late. I am being asked to get off the computer so will bid you goodnight. Thanks for thinking of me...please pray for my blister to heal. I am learning to live in the moment.

Blisters and Blarney

I have a huge blister on my heel and am wishing Leah was here with her gel bandages! It was 34 degrees yesterday and the hills didn´t end. We got to Zuburi, and they told us the hostel was closed in Larasonna, so we had to stay in Zubiri instead. I was so hot, tired, sore and in pain. The only thing that made me quit complaining is that there is a group of Irish people and they are so happy all the time. One of the guys is blind and he has the biggest smile on his face and keeps saying how wonderful it all is. So there. Anyway, it is 8am and I am on to Pamploma so I better get going before it gets too hot. Pray for me and my blister.....

Roncesvalles...I made it!

Well, that was probably the hardest thing I´ve ever done. It was a mix of Gordon Rd, Pulpit Rock, and Silverspray. Seriously didn´t think I was going to make it at times. I walked with a young woman named Anna from the US (living in Paris) and we helped each other along. It was 31 degrees which made it a little harder with the heat. Anyway, we were rewarded with unimaginably beautiful sights. Green rolling hills, sheep grazing with their bells tolling, birds singing and otherwise completely silent. I was truly overcome with the beauty of it all. It was a gruelling day and took us longer than we thought, however we made it.  I can now say that I walked from France into Spain over the Pyrenees and survived to tell the tale. When we got here, we were given our rooms in an old monestary (300 plus rooms) and I crept to the shower, nearly weeping with joy, as they were clean, new and vacant! I showered, washed my clothes and then went for a cold beer down in one of the hotel bars. We then had a wonderful ¨"Pilgrims meal¨" complete with pasta, fish, and wine. 9 euros. On the way back, I said to my friends, I´m just going to have a look at the cathedral and when I got in, they were just starting Mass for the pilgrims. I decided to stay and was very glad I did. Even tho it was in Spanish, it was beautiful in the century´s old church complete with full organ and 30´foot stained glass windows. I felt very special as they prayed for all the pilgrims on the road that day. I am beyond tired and need to tend to my blister (damn!) and then close my eyes and rest my weary body before the 24km walk tomorrow. I have met people from Belgium, USA, England, Ireland, Netherlands, Spain, and Canada....amazing! Good night, and bless you all. Love jenn

St. Jean Pied de Port

Well, I made it to St Jean after an amazing day/night in Bordeaux. Beautiful city full of life and culture. On to St. Jean via train to Bayonne and then bus. So far, have met some wonderful people, my first pilgrim friends Maureen and Nadine from Canada. At the hostel there are 20 or so pilgrims beginning tomorrow and all but myself and one other young girl from USA are stopping in Orrisson. I'm beginning to wonder about my decision to go to Roncesvalles (27k) all in one day and as I look at the mighty Pyrenees looming ahead of me, am feeling a bit intimidated. I remain steadfast in my decision despite the challenge. \The weather is supposed to be sunny and warm and my hosts will be providing me with a lunch for the road. The hostel I'm at is called L'Espirit Chemin and is a cozy little pl.ace where I have been welcomed warmly. We had a "family dinner" and we all got to know one another a little bit. As I begin this journey tomorrow, I do so knowing I am loved and thought of from those back home and it encourages me. I have my pilgrim passport, food for tomorrow, and a good attitude to take me into the mountains. Buen Camino!!

Banks

Trying to figure out why my bank at home would tell me that I need a 5 digit pin number in UK and EU when I really only need my regular 4 digit pin. It amazes me that they don't know this. Didn't need this frustration but I have a few Euros now and a nice hotel booked and paid for tonight in Bordeaux but God knows if it will all work when I need to get more money. Oh well, I guess this is all part of the adventure, right? Wish me luck.

Liverpool

Well, I managed to make it to Liverpool in one piece despite a delayed flight which made me miss my first train. Navigating the underground after 11 hours on a plane, carrying luggage, trying to make my way through the crowds, buy tickets and figure out which way to go, was a bit of an undertaking. For those of you who know me well, know how easy it is for me to get lost. It's embarrassing and I'm really proud of myself for successfully getting myself to Liverpool. I was met at the train station by my Aunt Susie and we were so happy to see one another after 4 years. She and Terry always make me feel so welcome and it felt like coming home. Since arriving it's been a flurry of activity visiting  my Mom's other lovely sister Ange, as well as my cousins Gemma, Mel and Phil, and Ruth and Roland. I spent yesterday at a food and drink festival in Sefton Park with Mel, Phil and their children, Gemma and a good friend Chris. Food was consumed, as was the odd pint or three, finishing off the day with fish and chips. Predictable, I know, but thoroughly enjoyable. Today I went to a cricket match that Ruth and Roland's son Barney was playing in. It was the finals and though they didn't win, it was a lovely sunny day, Barney was a star and we had a good visit. Pub lunch and now dinner at Mel and Phil's after a nice walk on the beach. I'm feeling good, though still a little jet-lagged but hope to be in fine form before I leave for France on Tuesday. Oh look! Phil just brought me a beer! Bless him.

I'm off!

You can see from the previous photo the state of my packing a few days ago. When I finally put everything into my pack, it was clear I had too much stuff. My goal was to have my pack weigh around 16 pounds. It came in at 21.6!! I unpacked everything three times and then finally settled with 16.5, not including water or hiking boots. There wasn't really too much to take out but I reduced the amount of medical supplies and gadgets that I thought I needed. Turns out, one soap will work for everything I need to do: wash clothes, hair and body. I also took the water out of my water bag which made a big difference. I had worked myself into quite a tizzy over this and then went to pack my other bag of "normal" clothes. I chose the smallest carry-on I had and put in a few "luxury" items like shampoo and perfume and left it at that. I will beg, borrow or steal anything else I might need. Chances are, clothes won't fit after 35 days of hiking and walking anyway...unless I do nothing but eat tapas and drink wine! Last minute things to do: write a few emails, phone Robbie, shower, take out garbage, eat, pray that flight gets out of Castlegar and I make all the other connections.
I miss George already, but he was very happy to see Norm when I dropped him off last night.
Next post will come from Liverpool.