*Walk*Pray*Laugh*

When I began this journey ten months ago I had no idea the impact it would have  on me nor the adventures that lay ahead. I did not know I would change my plans to carry on travelling for the better part of a year. If I had thought about it, well, I probably wouldn't have done it. It evolved. I was open. It was meant to be.

As I contemplate  my journey home tomorrow I am trying to find a way to put into words my feelings, my thoughts, my anxieties and anticipation about ending what was the most extraordinary year of my life. I am excited beyond measure to see my children Sarah, Robbie, James and my son in law Robert, my Mom and all my friends, and, of course George, my puppy. How I have missed them! And I am very sad to say goodbye to everyone here - Sue and Terry, Ange, and all my cousins, and their lovely children as well as the friends I have made here. So, off come the hippy bracelets and the harem pants and on to the sobering reality of taxes, bills, responsibilities and the rather daunting prospect of finding a job..

 My blog has been an account of the details of my journey and my personal journal. I am amazed at the number of hits, ......mind you, 50% are probably my Mother! But I do appreciate those who have read and followed me along "The Way". What began as a 5 week pilgrimage has turned into a near year long discovery of who I am, what my life means and holds for me as I consider the next half of it. How do I keep with me those moments of sheer awe, of the extraordinary life changing experiences that will never be repeated, at least not in the same way. My mind is like a tornado, so many images and memories swirling around in my head it's dizzying! Even now, I will see something that reminds me of a situation, a person, a place, a moment and I get utterly lost in a memory that I hold dear to my heart. I must keep these moments alive even though I know it is not possible to live in those moments, and knowing they cannot be perceived by anyone else no matter how hard I try to describe them. If you see a smile cross my face at any given moment, you can be sure it will be because I am pondering one of those explicitly delicious moments, a memory I will hold on to ever so dearly. Some people have said, "you're like Julia Roberts in "Eat, Pray, Love".  I am naming this entry "Walk, Pray, Laugh". Here's why:
 **WALK** I must have walked hundreds of miles and have taken every opportunity to be outdoors. I have a weathered look about me and this has aged me considerably but I don't mind. To be outdoors is a welcome opportunity compared to working most of my life indoors. If I don't walk every day, I just don't feel quite right in my body. It calms my mind and exercises my body in a way that benefits and suits me. I have no aches or pains and feel healthy, well and fit. I am happiest when I am walking whether its along the beach of Crosby, the coastal cliffs of Cornwall, following the ubiquitous yellow arrow on the Camino path, hiking up a mountain in India, or walking through a pasture in northern England. Walking simply makes me happy.
 **PRAY** I have entered and prayed in countless churches and holy places of worship. I have lived prayer by walking the Meseta, by walking through the slums of Kolkata, by standing at the tomb of Mother Theresa, by observing the most beautiful and majestic animals in the kingdom, by immersing myself in sunsets and places of such profound beauty, and by standing in front of Masterpieces that have taken me back in time and taken my breath away. My time on the Camino and at Motherhouse renewed my faith and commitment to living a prayer filled life. I have said hundreds of "Hail Mary's" as I toiled up a particularly difficult hill, was lost and didn't know where to go, or felt so homesick for my kids I wanted to cry. It is this one quote that gives me all the strength I need to live my life: "You shall love the Lord your God with all your heart, with all your soul, and with all your mind".  Matt 23:37.  This is the pure and simple answer to have the most amazing life. To me, without this, I am nothing.
 **LAUGH** There were times where I laughed so hard my stomache hurt and my eyes spilled tears of joy. Arlene, Francis, Laura, Les, Eric, Sue, Terry, Stephanie, Steph, Linnea, Jess, Foxy, Gen, Richard, Ruth, Rachel, Nancy..to name a few. I thank you for laughing out loud with me. A good deep belly laugh is like medicine and there is nothing quite like it. I will remember with love all the people I've met and spent time with laughing, talking, eating, drinking, sharing. I pray I will see you all again someday. And if I don't, know that you will never be forgotten.

 A year of travel. A gift worth more than all the money I have or will ever have. Experiences that cannot be surpassed or repeated. Beautiful people I will never forget. Lessons that can be learned in no other way. An acute and growing awareness for those who struggle, where I do not. The observance of how cultures and customs shape the world. That no matter the colour of our skin or the language that we speak we are all People of God, whether we believe it or not. My pilgrimage has come to an end. Now, I must use the experiences to continue to have the most precious and blessed life. To live my life with passion and purpose and to fill it with love and beauty. To manage the stress and challenges that come my way with dignity, ease and grace. I will always remember the words of the Franciscan monk at La Faba and his special pilgrim blessing: "If you go home and merely tell stories about your Camino, you haven't really done the Camino. You have to change something about yourself, something about your life, and keep it with you always". I ponder how I have changed. My attitude to happiness and what that means to me. My ability to trust that all will work out the way it's meant to. My deepened sense of understanding and awareness of others. My purpose is unclear but I trust it will be revealed in time and I pray that I do not get pulled into the inertia and stagnation that life can sometimes be. I will continue to enrich my life every day.....Life, with all it's challenges, joy, beauty, sadness and pain. I will not take it for granted, no matter what. 

 A big theme for me this year was moving out of my comfort zone. I have a huge fear of getting lost and have always been intimidated by big cities. I do not have a good sense of direction, yet I have navigated my way through some of the biggest and busiest airports and metro stations in the world - London, Paris, Madrid, Barcelona, Dublin, Manchester, Casablanca, Addis Ababa, Nairobi, New Delhi, Kolkata, Dubai, Liverpool! And all by myself!  I have gained great confidence and feel brave and proud. I have been on dozens of flights and trains, slept in countless beds, with countless people! I have not driven a car in all this time. I have travelled the world. I have seen so much. I have lived life fully. I  have known true freedom. The more I see of the world, the more I realise there is still so much I haven't yet seen. Perhaps it is not an ending at all, but merely another beginning. So if this is what it's like to be 50, then I only have one more thing to say: BRING  IT ON!

Top twenty Travel Tips

Travelling is at times tiring, confusing, difficult, hot, cold, boring, irritating and terribly uncomfortable. I have never been happier. I am an intrepid traveller. A true explorer. I have learned many things, some of which are spiritual, physical, personal, or just plain practical. 

Here are my Top Twenty Travel Tips:

 1. Never travel anywhere without tissue. Ever.
2. When they say get to the airport 2 hours before....they mean it.
3. Always talk to strangers. 
4. Pack light. Then take out more.
5. If you're not sure, ask someone.
6. Give to the poor.
7. Never leave anything behind that can't be used by someone else
8. Learn how to wash your clothes by hand
9. Be polite, no matter what the situation. You are representing your country.
10. Use the tourist information offices. You're a tourist.
11.  Send postcards.
12. Take a business card from the place you are staying when you go out for the day.
13. Spend your money on experiences rather than stuff
14. Take pictures but commit to memory as well
15. Sleep with your passport. Shower with it if necessary.
16. Eat the local food.
17. Move your body every day.
18. Conserve water, use it wisely.
19. Try to speak a few words in the language of the country you are in.
20.  Write about your travels

The Scilly Isles

....pronounced "Silly" Isles. We decided to take this once in a lifetime (for me) opportunity to visit the Scilly Isles, specifically Tescoe Isle. My first time ever in a helicopter, it seemed a fitting way to experience my last inter-continental flight before going home. We had a cup of tea at the waiting area and then were led out to the waiting, and very noisy, helicopter. I must admit, I was excited! I kept thinking of Robbie who used to go to work everyday like this when he was firefighting. The view from the helicopter was incredible as you fly much lower than in an airplane. The coastline was wild and rugged and so interesting to watch the waves crashing against the gnarly cliffs. It was a rough day, very windy, but a smooth ride nevertheless. The helipad on Trescoe was very simple and since the island is a no-car zone, we walked the short distance to our first stop, the sub tropical Trescoe Abby Gardens, host to thousands of exotic plants . Finding myself enraptured in this place of such profound beauty, engulfed in the trees, shrubs, flowers, birds and insects, I was thoroughly engaged for the next couple of hours. We walked the lush criss-cross grid of pathways amidst succulents, towering palm trees and lipstick red flame trees and hundreds of flowering plants and shrubs from all over the world.  Many of these plants would not stand a chance on the Cornish mainland less than 30 miles away but by building tall wind breaks Augustus Smith channelled the weather up and over the network of walled enclosures that he built around the priory ruins. This tropical garden is home to species from 80 countries and indeed a treasure to behold! Next a walk around the island to the castle ruins and the only pub "The New Inn" for lunch - a half pint of fresh prawns, salad and, of course, a beer. We got drowned in a torrential rain storm on the way back but I have learned to shake it off and enjoy myself despite the unpredictable English weather. The sun came out and we had a cup of tea in the garden where the birds were so tame they were actually sitting on Terry's knee! Delightful! We saw a golden pheasant, one of the most colourful birds I've ever been close to, and one I've never even heard of before. It was an amazing day, one I shall never forget. The next day we headed back to Liverpool, a long 8 hour drive and I sincerely hope to go back to Cornwall one day. In fact, if I could, I'd live there. Still need to find that farmer to marry though.....!

Land's End

We woke up to pouring rain today. The plan was forTerry and I to drop Sue off at her course and then carry on to Lands End, England's most westerly point and do a coastal walk. I was really excited and I packed my bag with all the necessary items. I knew I'd get wet, but I didn't mind. I was primed to see the beauty of this rugged coastline I had read so much about. When we got to Lands End, it was so windy I began to have second thoughts only from the safety aspect. We went into the coffee shop had a coffee and then I decided I wanted to go regardless of the weather. Terry did as well though he only wanted to walk to Sennen, a mile away. I wasn't thrilled about walking alone on a treacherous path but once we got going it seemed to settle down a bit and was fine. We parted ways at Sennen and after meeting and getting information from a very friendly woman named "Irish Annie"at the National Trust office (an old fort overlooking the sea),  I carried on nearly to Port Cornwall where it veered off to the small town of St Just.  Battered into dramatic shapes by the Atlantic winds and waves, jagged cliffs rise from the wild waters. It took me about three hours and it was stunningly beautiful....words can't describe it. I had walked about an hour and a half when I reached a high rocky bit where the path seemed to end rather abruptly. I found myself peering over the cliff edge looking down a rock face to the sea below. I had no choice but to turn back. When I did, I met three guys who were headed that way and I told them they wouldn't be able to pass. Just then, another guy came down heading in the opposite direction of which we were going and told us we just had to scramble over the rocks and we would be okay. So that's what we did and my new friends Ian (Groggy), Mark, and Aidy (Adrian) found themselves with a new walking partner. They were very kind and two of them were heading to Port Cornwall as well so it made sense to walk together. When we got to the sign that said St Just I decided to leave them and head there to meet Terry. I invited them to join us for a pint at the Kings Arms Pub, which they did. It had started raining heavily and the last 45 minutes was torrential. Luckily the pub had a roaring fire going and we warmed up rather nicely, hung our clothes in front of the fire and had a good time. The owner of the pub was doing a quiz night and practiced on us...so much fun! We said goodbye, another couple of people that will remain in my memories of this amazing journey.

St. Ives

"...I could fill pages remembering one thing after another. All together made the summer at St. Ives the best beginning to life imaginable." --- Virginia Woolf

St. Ives

Barbara Hepworth

Barbara Hepworth

 Touted the 'Best UK Seaside Town' from the British Travel Awards in both 2010 and 2011, St Ives was incorporated by Royal Charter in 1639. It has become renowned for its number of local artists, most notably sculptor Barbara Hepworth whose studio and sculpture garden are a must-see. The Barbara Hepworth Museum and her sculpture garden are the responsibility of Tate St Ives. It was the wish of the late sculptor to leave her work on public display in perpetuity. St Ives is situated on the shore of St Ives Bay, its harbour sheltered by Smeaton's pier. Close to the harbour, its streets are narrow and uneven while its wider streets are in the newer parts of the town on rising ground. We parked the car in a car park up a steep street and made our way down to the pier. The town has four beaches and because of its oceanic climate has some of the mildest winters and warmest summers in Britain making it a popular holiday destination for the Brits. Anyway, I did love this place...it was a happy place filled with young people, dogs and for some reason, lots of pregnant women! Needless to say, it is an very special place and though I felt like a tourist, it was a place I wanted to return to, so I did. We decided to take one of the little boats to "Seal Island" which turned out to be a sunny and spectacular cruise along the beautiful coastline and though there weren't many seals, the ones that were there were delightful. Back on dry land we strolled along the promenade and ate a Cornish pasty, the local specialty. We meandered through the streets lined with little gift shops, bakeries, pasty shops and a butcher shop where we bought delicious lamb chops that we bbq'd for tea that night. It has become our custom, call it a Holiday Habit, to stop in at a pub for a pint before going back to the cottage to cook dinner. On one such occasion I went to the bar and ordered a cider for Sue, a pint of Betty Stoggs for Terry, and a half pint for myself. The barman asked me if I was sure I only wanted a half to which I replied "go on then, I'll have a whole". I've been here long enough to know the lingo....a pint, I should have said. By the time I go home, I'll have it down and then will have to go back to saying....uh oh, what is it that we say in Canada? Now I'm really confused. Better quit drinking beer for a while!

Mousehole, Penzance and Marazion

The forecast is for rain, clouds, and wind but the day dawned bright and sunny. Off we went to see the Open Studios of some artists in the area, one of which is Peter Ray, a printmaker who is giving a class for two days this week that my aunt has signed up for. I met some lovely people and viewed some amazing art. Another artist, was Paul Fry whom I had a lovely chat with in his studio. He does beautiful paintings that kind of remind me of my sister's work....sort of ethereal and white with pencil-y drawings in them. Okay, I'm crap at describing artwork but google him and you'll see what I mean. Anyway, I really enjoyed myself as it reminded me a bit of doing "ArtWalk" in Nelson (or as I like to call it, "Chatwalk". We talked about art, life, and travel. As you do. Afterwards, we decided to go to Mousehole (pronounced Mose-il) so I could walk from there to Penzance. The weather was holding and I needed to get some exercise. I was dropped off and spent the next couple of hours doing what I do best. I'm trying to get my walks in every day and most of the time I get an hour or two. I find I am happiest when I am walking. Whether it is a beach, a trail, a path, or a road, or if it is cloudy, sunny, raining heavily or even snowing, it doesn't matter. I am happy. I like walking alone or with someone but it is for me about being outside and moving my body every day. I pray, I think, I dream, I plan and sometimes I listen to music on my iPod. It is for me the most comfortable place I can be. Perfect. We carried onto Marazion and the famous St Michael's Mount, a one thousand year old castle that is only accessible by a causeway which is affected by the tide. If you're not paying attention, you could get stuck there until the tide goes back out. Beautiful beach and lovely village and great beer on a deck. Back to the cottage for our tea (dinner).

A week in Cornwall

Another place I've always wanted to go in England. When I was about eighteen, I read the Poldark series by Winston Graham and was swept away to the 17th century and the wild images of the fierce but beautiful landscape of sea cliffs and quaint fishing villages. Since then, I have always wanted to go there. I plan to do some walking, regardless of the weather and in consideration of England's notoriously unpredictable weather, I packed my bag with this in mind.  I travelled with my aunt and uncle by car and to break up the long journey,  we spent the first night in a little village called Taunton, Somerset in a B&B called Farthings. It was quaint and cosy and my room was perfect, complete with bathtub, veranda, and a tea trolley. We sat on the deck to soak up the end of the day sun, then found a pub with great ale and had a hearty meal before tucking ourselves in to our cosy beds. I got up very early and headed out for my morning walk. The sun was shining and I was in heaven. I saw a doe, a deer, 2 rabbits and a dead badger before having a delicious breakfast of cereal, toast and two cups of tea!  With only about a hundred miles to go, we got to our cottage in Trescowe quite early, dropped off our bags and then went off to explore. We decided to go to Penzance and have some lunch and a look around and get some groceries before going back to the cottage to settle in. So far, the weather was cooperating and it wasn't raining. The cottage is lovely but a little out of the way as it is a few miles away from the nearest village. The country roads are very narrow and so not good for walking along as you could be faced with a car, tractor or horse at any turn! The owners Keith, Mandy and Katie, their daughter, are very nice and have gone out of their way to make us feel comfortable we have everything we need. Sue bought Rummikub so we will have something to do in the evenings. The cottage is equipped with maps, brochures and information on what to do in Cornwall. All set for a special week and I feel like I am on a holiday by the seaside. Bring it on!

Appleby

Even the name is quaint! When I travelled in Africa, I met two women that became good friends...Liz, who lives in Appleby, Yorkshire and Stephanie, who lives in NYC. We had the idea that we would try and meet up in England before I went home and the beginning of June seemed like a good time for Steph to come over to England as it was the week of the Appleby Fair. If you've never heard of this, it is similar to the series " My Big Fat Gypsy Wedding". The dates were set and on June 4th I headed to Manchester Airport to meet Steph before heading to Penrith, where we would be picked up by Liz. I left pretty early in the morning in order to meet Steph but when I arrived in Manchester, I found out her flight was delayed and we would miss our train.  The system here is crazy, if you pre-purchase your ticket at least a week in advance, it's a reasonable price. If you buy your ticket close to, or on the day of travel, you will pay near double the rate. No changes allowed. It drives me crazy! When I realised we would not make our train, I went to the office, batted my eyes and begged for consideration, which was granted, and I was given a ticket for the following train, no extra charge. Liz was at the station in Penrith to meet us. We picked up some supplies and headed to Appleby.  Liz lives in a lovely house and we were made very welcome. She has two delightful little dogs who we played with and walked after we had a BBQ. We took a wander through the village, an old and very quaint village with a beautiful river running right through the town. Walking through a farmers field we came across a newborn foal, less than a day old. Such a beautiful little thing, I was transfixed. Another farm experience to cherish. The following day we went for a hike up into the surrounding hills. More beauty, more sheep and then to a pub for the obligatory half before heading home. Another great dinner and good time with new friends.   The next day, Liz made bacon buttys for breakfast and then we got in the car and headed to Keswick, another lovely village in the Lake district. Had a lovely time wandering through the quaint streets and around the shops. Had a bite to eat at a little outside cafe and then another drive and then headed to Penrith where I was to catch my train back to Liverpool. Steph was staying on so she could see (...take part in?!) the infamous Appleby Fair that was happening on the weekend. I was headed to Cornwall. I feel so blessed, once again, for the opportunity to meet up with friends I have met whilst travelling.  Next reunion, hopefully in NYC!

Madrid...again

When I was in Spain for three weeks doing the English Immersion program I left a small suitcase there, a carry-on bag, containing my regular clothes that I didnt need for walking. My intention was to pick it up in Madrid on the day I was to get my flight back to Liverpool. I left it with someone from the program who said it would be absolutely no problem and she would meet me on the day I was back in Madrid, we'd pick up the bag and have lunch before I flew out. Great. Off I went to walk a week on the Camino and see Barcelona. The day before I arrived back in Madrid, I emailed her to make arrangements to which I got a reply saying she had left it at the office and because of the bank holiday, it was closed and we would not be able to get in. Well, that seemed crazy to me....surely there was someone who had a key? Turns out, no one was around as everyone leaves town on a holiday. I asked her to ring the big boss man and she said it would be a last resort. I didn't want to appear bitchy, but I said I thought it was a last resort....I had a flight to catch and needed to leave by 2:00pm. I stressed again that I needed my bag as it contained all of my regular clothes. She called and he gave her the code. Down to the office we went only to find that it was the wrong code!! When I suggested we call him back, she said he was a busy man and she could not possibly bother him again. I said there had to be someone in the building who could get in if there was an emergency (to me, this qualified!). We found the security guy who told us he didn't know the code. By now I'm starting to realise that I would not be getting my case. We went for lunch with her son and I was told it would be no problem, the office girl would send the case the next day. It wasn't such a huge deal as I was going to begin my Hadrian's Wall walk the day after I returned to Liverpool so had all my walking gear with me. I had to accept the situation and made my way to the airport. A week later, I returned from my Hadrian's Wall walk thinking that my case would be delivered, but no such luck. I emailed the woman who said she was surprised, she assumed it was taken care of. She made some inquiries and told me that they didn't send it because it was going to cost me 70€ to ship it and they needed my consent. I was a bit shocked by the price but said to go ahead. Two days later, I left for Paris....with my walking clothes. I followed up again when I returned and they said the price they gave me was for delivery in Spain only and the price was now 330€. I was speechless and did some inquiries of my own only to find out it was indeed true. It dawned on me that it might be cheaper to go and get it myself so I began looking for flights. Turns out, it was cheaper to go and get it. I should have shares in Easyjet! Another flight to arrange and then to find a place to stay. I decided to email the Spaniards I had met and see if anyone would kindly offer me a bed, couch, or floor to sleep on as I was only staying one night. My friend Carlos came through and this became the silver lining to this little adventure. He picked me up, took me out for the most amazing tapas I've ever had and then took me to his home to meet his family. I was so grateful for their warm hospitality and hope that one day I can do the same for any one of them. The next morning I got up early and headed to the Prado where I spent a good four hours immersing myself in Spanish, Italian, and Dutch paintings and sculptures. Then boarded a bus that took me straight to the airport and back to Liverpool. Phew! Lesson learned.

Paris in the springtime

As long as I can remember, I have always wanted to go to Paris. Each time I've travelled over here, the thought has come up but because of other travel plans or commitments I never made it happen. Until now. I was determined to get there this time and was just going to get the Eurostar over for a few days when I got a Facebook message from my childhood best buddy Nancy saying she had just booked an apartment in Paris for two weeks and could I join her. Ummmmm, YES! Thrilled I was! First, at going to Paris finally, but more thrilled because it had been 32 years since Nancy and I had seen each other. I quickly booked my flight and we made our plans. So here is my account of a journey, and a meeting that was long overdue..... After navigating my way through Charles de Gaulle airport, finding the train at Gare du Nord and then taking a cab the short distance from the station to the address of the apartment, I arrived around 10:30pm. Nancy was on the street to greet me and we embraced and giggled for a long moment. Up to the apartment which was quite luxurious compared with where I normally stay, and there to greet me were Nancy's sister Bonnie and her husband Ron, also from Calgary and there for a week. We had a glass of bubbly and chatted for at least an hour catching up and making plans for the next day. MUSEA D'ORSAY When we woke up, we got ready to go out for my first day in Paris! I was excited, I'll be honest. So much to see and do and only 6 days. First thing: cafe. Just around the corner was a little restaurant where we each had a coffee (4€ ea). Okay, this is Paris and the waiter was decent. Nance and I decided to walk to the Musea D'Orsay and ended up getting caught in a magnificent rain storm. Then we queued for our tickets for about an hour. It was fine, we had 32 years to catch up on...we were wet, but it didnt matter. I was thrilled to find out that Nancy does museums the way I do....audio guides! Unfortunately it was a busy day and they ran out of English guides so we just started with the impressionists and got lost in a time of romance and soft beauty. We spent about 4 hours in total, and it is a great collection of so many masterpieces I knew. Afterwards we wandered towards the Louvre and ended up in a bar for a much needed beer (another similarity I was thrilled about!) The plan was to meet Bon and Ron for dinner at 9:00 and we made our way back to the 9th arrondissement, our neighbourhood. We sat outside and had a wonderful dinner of escargot, French onion soup, a huge salad and, of course, wine. Perfect!  THE LOURVE The next day we decided to get up early and spend the day at the Louvre.  Originally a royal palace, the Louvre became a public museum at the end of the 18th century. It is located in the 1st arrondissement, at the heart of Paris. There are about 35.000 objects on display, spread out over three wings of the former palace. The museum has a diverse collection ranging from the antiquity up to the mid 19th century. A large part of the collection consists of European paintings and sculptures. Other rooms contain Roman, Egyptian, Greek and Oriental art. There is also a section with 'Objects d'Art', where objects such as clocks, furniture, china and tapestries are displayed. Some of the most famous works of art in the museum are the Venus of Milo, the Nike of Samothrake, the Dying Slave by Michelangelo and of course Leonardo da Vinci's Mona Lisa, all of which lived up to my expectation.(I was enraptured!) By the time we arrived, got our tickets and figured out what we wanted to see we had 6 hours in total....barely enough to scratch the surface. We picked up our audio guides which proved to be quite a challenge to work out but we finally did and Nance even helped some Italian people with theirs! Words can't describe the awe and magnitude of the artists and their works. It is impossible to describe. The only thing I can say is that seeing works from the same artists spread all over Europe, your begin to get an understanding of the history as dates, times, monarchy's, wars and it all begins to come together in your mind and you get a real sense of what it was like. Sort of. It's so much to take in really. Exhausted, we finally left as I had made arrangements to see my cousin Emma who lives in St. Cloud, a suburb on the edge of the city. We had our directions and headed to the station. I had not seen Emma since she was about 12...she is now married with three beautiful children and working as a lawyer for her own music management company. I thought she and Robbie should connect :) in Paris. It was wonderful to see her and to meet her family. It was a short visit and she gave us a ride into the city where we had a quick bite before she had to rush off to make an appearance at a gig. There ended another busy day. CHATEAU  de VERSAILLES We had decided to go to Versailles and knew it was going to be an all-day affair so we left early. It took about an hour on the train and then we queued up for our tickets. Then we queued up to get in the gates and joined the throng of people to view what is probably one of the most grandiose examples of ostentatious royal living. Impossible to describe the decadence and sumptuous decor of this place. When the château was built, Versailles was a country village; today, however, it is a suburb of Paris, some 20 kilometres southwest of the French capital. The court of Versailles was the centre of political power in France from 1682, when Louis XIV moved from Paris, until the royal family was forced to return to the capital in October 1789 after the beginning of the French Revolution. Versailles is therefore famous not only as a building, but as a symbol of the system of absolute monarchy of the Ancien Régime. We could imagine the Louis's.....XIII, XIV, XV, XVI and Marie Antoinette partying it up in grand style. Mind blowing! The crowds were massive, as were the grounds! The vast number of apartments and salons were so luxurious and over the top, we were rendered speechless. Go to the website for photos and you will get an idea, though it can't compare with being there in person, of course. We decided to walk down the gardens past all the fountains and then another few kilometers to see Marie Antoinette's estate first, which turned out to be our favourite as it was very grand but on a smaller scale and the crowds were much less. After several hours, we had a much needed coffee and cake in the cafe and then headed to the train and back to Paris for dinner. The next couple of days were spent wandering through the little streets, touring the Sacre Coeur, Norte Dame, and generally stopping at cafes and parks along the way. It was heavenly and the best part was sharing it all with my pal. LAST DAY I have to say at this point, that contrary to common belief, we found Parisans to be incredibly nice, helpful and even interested in having conversations with us. We stumbled along using as much french as we could, which, I think they appreciated. One funny story.....and an example of one of my dumb blond moments.....We had just eaten dinner at a restaurant a ways from our apartment. Nancy went to use the loo and I went to pay for the meal and get directions to the nearest metro station from the man behind the bar (who, incidentally was rather striking). He very kindly wrote down the instructions on a napkin and at the bottom wrote a phone number. I thanked him and then asked if the number was in case I got lost and needed further directions. Our waiter was standing next to me smiling and said "no, he likes you and wants you to call him later". Duh. So embarrassing! On my last day, we decided to do the night bike tour. Well, actually, we wanted to do the afternoon one but spent too much time in Notre Dame and didn't give ourselves enough time to get there. We ended up finding a little bar across the street from the Tour Eiffel and drinking belgium beer instead! Anyway, it turned out to be the better choice I think. We met at the Tour Eiffel at 7:00pm, and walked from there to the bike shop to gear up. Our guide took us out into the busy city streets, giving us strict instructions on cycling in the Paris traffic. Fortunately there are cycle paths but at first the traffic is a little intimidating. Anyway, we cycled to, and made stops at Notre Dame, Academie Française, Tour Eiffel, Princess Diana's Flame - situated above the tunnel where Princess Diana was killed, and arrived at the back courtyard of The Louvre just in time to see the magnificent sunset! We then boarded a river boat on the Sienne and cruised for about an hour as the city began to light up. We saw the laser light show where the Eiffel Tower is fully lit up in blue lights. Indeed, the City of Light! Of course, we were drinking wine....but i didnt really need to tell you that, did I? Back on our bikes and back to the bike shop at close to 1:00am! We had met some nice people who invited us to go have a drink with them and when we arrived at the bar, it was so packed we decided to go back to the apartment as it was along way and I needed to get up around 6:00am to get my flight back to Liverpool. We ate some Brie and cheese and I put my weary head down for the last night in Paris.  It is my favourite big city so far.