After weeks in India, I was feeling surprised (and happy) that so far, I have had no vomiting or diarrhoea. Until today. I woke up at 4:00am with a churning tummy and then when I got up, threw up everything in my stomache. After that, I felt better so decided to go ahead with my plans to see the place where buddism began, a 45 min tuk-tuk ride through the city. I thought it would be a good idea to drink some water with electrolytes and take some pro-biotics. Driving through the bumpy streets, I could feel my tummy begin to swirl. When I arrived with two of my friends, I got out and walked into the already blazing heat of the day. We got our tickets and decided to walk through the gardens first. They were beautifully manicured and so unlike anywhere else. I said to the girls "what if I have to throw up" and they said, "just do it". "Where?!" I asked, with growing dread. The reply was "anywhere! This is India, get it out!". A few minutes later, there I was in the beautiful gardens, spilling my guts over the manicured hedge, monks walking past me, not even flinching. Even a little bit of pee came out to my utter embarrassment The girls had gone on with the guide, leaving me in my misery, distracting the guide, who, incidentally didn't flinch either. I was mortified!
And then humbled. I am now one of the millions of people in this country who have not a spec of privacy in their day to day lives. They do everything in public it seems - bathing, peeing, shitting, and spitting. And yet, they seem to do it with a lot more tact and grace than I did. And they don't do it in the grounds of a national monument.
I am quite a modest and private person when it comes to bodily functions. In India, it is openly talked about as a natural part of life. Even in our group, if someone is suffering with constipation or diarrhoea, we all offer advice, medications and support. One day, as we were walking a long way into the centre of the city, we stopped in the hot, crowded street at a pharmacy (more like a drive-through window) and discussed the treatment for one of our group member who was suffering with constipation. Everyone in the shop gathered around and even passersby stopped in interest. It's just not a big deal and is an important aspect of our health.
Another lesson for me to learn. So many more to come I'm sure.
In the meantime, I pray that I can get through the 15 hour overnight train journey without needing to use the toilet. But if I do, then I'll just hike up my skirt and do it!!
Friday, 30 March 2012
Thursday, 29 March 2012
A very strange thing happened.....
As I was standing at the gate to visit the gardens and see the sunset behind the Taj Mahal, I heard someone call out to me. I turned around, only to see a woman I met when I was walking the Camino! Her name is Marie-Jose and she lives in Holland. I couldn't believe it! We had a huge hug and kept looking at each other in complete bewilderment. We had a moment to quickly catch up before going into the garden and then had some time together inside. Neither one of us had mentioned anything about India when we were in Spain, so when you think that it could have been 5 minutes either way when we arrived at the garden gate, we would not have met.
Of course, I have been thinking about this ever since, wondering how these things happen....but more importantly, why. I met Marie-Jose towards the end of the Camino along with a bunch of other people who had all been walking around the same time. I remember having dinner with her once and bumping into her many times along "the Way". Conversations on the camino are often close and intimate and you get to know people quickly. I liked her as soon as we met and remember the good conversations.
Is it the magic and spiritual wonder of India? Serendipity? Coincidence? Or merely a chance meeting with a friend? I don't know what to make of it but I know that everything in life happens for a reason. I will never forget her as she is now part of the story of my travels. Who knows who I will meet again....!
I leave it to God and keep my heart and my soul open to all the possibilities.
I sincerely hope it is not the last time I will meet Marie-Jose. Maybe I will go to the Netherlands next!
Of course, I have been thinking about this ever since, wondering how these things happen....but more importantly, why. I met Marie-Jose towards the end of the Camino along with a bunch of other people who had all been walking around the same time. I remember having dinner with her once and bumping into her many times along "the Way". Conversations on the camino are often close and intimate and you get to know people quickly. I liked her as soon as we met and remember the good conversations.
Is it the magic and spiritual wonder of India? Serendipity? Coincidence? Or merely a chance meeting with a friend? I don't know what to make of it but I know that everything in life happens for a reason. I will never forget her as she is now part of the story of my travels. Who knows who I will meet again....!
I leave it to God and keep my heart and my soul open to all the possibilities.
I sincerely hope it is not the last time I will meet Marie-Jose. Maybe I will go to the Netherlands next!
Wednesday, 28 March 2012
Impressions
I've been writing about the places I've been to and the sights that I have seen but recently have thought that these things, though wondrous as they are, can easily be read about in any travel guide. While they are a vital part of the experience and understanding of India, they tell only part of the story, a story of how 1.25 billion people manage to co-exist together peaceably.
I've decided instead to write about my impressions of India as I see it from day to day. When I am on the bus or riding in a tuk-tuk, I look out the window and see the people living as they do. I would describe India as functioning in a sort of organised chaos. Just taking a rickshaw, for example, you are thrust into the mayhem of a traffic system that has no rules. The drivers seem to read the traffic with intuition and skill rather than use reflex or reaction. They drive on the left hand side of the road but often cross over, pass, or stop wherever they feel like. Our guide Mayank told me that statistically, there are no more accidents in this system of disorder than in an organised, rule driven system. Hard to believe, but so far, I have not seen any sort of accident at all.
The busses are really interesting too. I like taking local transport because you get a chance to observe the locals and sometimes even have a conversation. I look out the window and the scenes I observe are little vignettes frozen in my mind forever. An old man bathing by the side of the road; cycle rick-shaws lined up along the street, their sleeping owners lying precariously on top of the seat and handlebars. This is their home. Countless beggers, children, bedraggled and looking like they have never had a bath. Public toilets (I use the term loosely) with no doors but facing the road where you can see them doing their business. Men spitting the vile red juice of the paan they chew all day long. A half naked, dirty toddler playing with a plastic bottle in the middle of a roundabout, oblivious to the chaotic traffic swirling around him, no parent in sight. Men, young and old walking hand in hand, not as lovers, but as best friends. I find this oddly endearing. A polio survivor, his twisted, crippled body crawling through the filth of the streets, begging because it's all he can do. A man, sitting in a barber's chair having a shave, perilously close to the side of the road, only inches away from the speeding traffic. Women dressed in colourful saris, deftly stepping around the rubbish and piles of cow manure in their jewelled sandals, anklet bracelets jingling in the noisy street. Scrawny, mangy dogs scrabbling in the garbage looking for scraps. More tattered, filthy, lice infested, smiling children, playing in the squalor, always seizing the opportunity to beg from the passersby. Young men on motorcycles, usually two at a time, dressed as westerners with their aviator sunglasses gleaming in the sunlight like giant flies. And the ever common sight of people relieving themselves unabashedly in a country where there is no privacy at all. It is accepted, just as the filth, the rubbish, the dirty children, the foul smells are so much a part of the fabric of this complicated and interesting country. I am overwhelmed, overstimulated as I try to make sense of it all, immersing myself in it and trying to blend in, my whiteness too stark a contrast to the beauty of the Indian people.
I hate this place. I love this place. I can't explain it
I've decided instead to write about my impressions of India as I see it from day to day. When I am on the bus or riding in a tuk-tuk, I look out the window and see the people living as they do. I would describe India as functioning in a sort of organised chaos. Just taking a rickshaw, for example, you are thrust into the mayhem of a traffic system that has no rules. The drivers seem to read the traffic with intuition and skill rather than use reflex or reaction. They drive on the left hand side of the road but often cross over, pass, or stop wherever they feel like. Our guide Mayank told me that statistically, there are no more accidents in this system of disorder than in an organised, rule driven system. Hard to believe, but so far, I have not seen any sort of accident at all.
The busses are really interesting too. I like taking local transport because you get a chance to observe the locals and sometimes even have a conversation. I look out the window and the scenes I observe are little vignettes frozen in my mind forever. An old man bathing by the side of the road; cycle rick-shaws lined up along the street, their sleeping owners lying precariously on top of the seat and handlebars. This is their home. Countless beggers, children, bedraggled and looking like they have never had a bath. Public toilets (I use the term loosely) with no doors but facing the road where you can see them doing their business. Men spitting the vile red juice of the paan they chew all day long. A half naked, dirty toddler playing with a plastic bottle in the middle of a roundabout, oblivious to the chaotic traffic swirling around him, no parent in sight. Men, young and old walking hand in hand, not as lovers, but as best friends. I find this oddly endearing. A polio survivor, his twisted, crippled body crawling through the filth of the streets, begging because it's all he can do. A man, sitting in a barber's chair having a shave, perilously close to the side of the road, only inches away from the speeding traffic. Women dressed in colourful saris, deftly stepping around the rubbish and piles of cow manure in their jewelled sandals, anklet bracelets jingling in the noisy street. Scrawny, mangy dogs scrabbling in the garbage looking for scraps. More tattered, filthy, lice infested, smiling children, playing in the squalor, always seizing the opportunity to beg from the passersby. Young men on motorcycles, usually two at a time, dressed as westerners with their aviator sunglasses gleaming in the sunlight like giant flies. And the ever common sight of people relieving themselves unabashedly in a country where there is no privacy at all. It is accepted, just as the filth, the rubbish, the dirty children, the foul smells are so much a part of the fabric of this complicated and interesting country. I am overwhelmed, overstimulated as I try to make sense of it all, immersing myself in it and trying to blend in, my whiteness too stark a contrast to the beauty of the Indian people.
I hate this place. I love this place. I can't explain it
Tuesday, 27 March 2012
Jaisalmer
We took a 19 hour train journey on an overnight sleeper train. Leaving Delhi, I watched the landscape turn from the overcrowded bustle of the city to the ubiquitous slums and unending poverty of the sprawling shanty towns with their shelters strung together with any bit of plastic, tin, paper and sticks, each dwelling leaning on the next in an effort to hold it all together. Strewn with garbage it went on, kilometre after kilometre, thousands of people living together, a writhing sea of humanity amidst open sewage and piles of waste and rubbish. Amazingly, children were playing and smiling and a community was evident despite these appalling conditions. I felt my heart break knowing there is nothing I can do to change this. It is, as it is.
The trains have compartments with 3 bunks on each side and, as luck would have it, I was assigned the top bunk. Once I was up there, it was fine but I prayed I didn't need to use the loo in the middle of the night. I could just imagine myself climbing down, negotiating the ladders and probably stepping on something or someone in the process. It was a long journey but I made it just fine, not too worse for the wear. The reward was arriving in the beautiful old fort town called Jaisalmer and once we got our bags, navigated our way out of the chaotic station and into jeeps waiting to take us up through the very narrow and winding streets to our hotel....we could finally relax.
It's hard to describe the noise...horns honking, people yelling at each other, tuk tuk's, scooters and motorcycles vying to be heard over the din and inch their way into position. It amazes me that in this crazy chaos I don't think about wearing a seatbelt (there are none) and I readily put my faith in the driver to get me where I need to go, safely. So far, so good.
There are stray cows and oxen everywhere. They feed on the rubbish in the streets (Indian garbage collection solution?) and the long grasses that people cut from the fields and bring them. They are seemingly calm amidst the chaos of the traffic and are regarded with respect as the drivers avoid contact with them.
The next day I booked a pedicure (350 rupees, or $7 cdn) which was great, but very different to what I'm used to. First off, the girl had no way of getting hot water except by placing an electrical wand, plugged perilously into a wall socket that looked like it would spark into fire any moment, into a bucket of water. Not kidding. It seemed to work and I was grateful for the warm soak. An hour and a half later, I emerged, pink toenails and freshly threaded eyebrows....a new woman! I then went out to explore the city and tour the fort and palace.
Shopping in India is a very different experience. Instead of haggling at the market stall, you go inside behind the colourful array of "samples" hanging in front of the shop revealing a huge back room with all the stock neatly stacked and ready to be unfurled for your buying pleasure. There is a huge cushion for you to sit on and they usually offer you chai, or in my case, a beer and then set to work convincing you to buy something, unfurling piles and piles of colourful cashmere and silk to entice you. It is a long process and I succumbed once, emerging an hour later, a bit tipsy, and totally bewildered at how I managed to leave with five pashmina scarves in hand and a dinner date with the much too young shopkeeper. Needless to say, I have tried to avoid this situation ever since. I prefer instead take a rickshaw into the non-touristy parts of the city where I can chat with the locals, drink street chai and take interesting photos.
The people I am travelling with are great, particularly the 8 young women ages 19-28. They have welcomed me into their fold, telling me I am more like a peer than a mom and I am growing increasingly fond of each one of tthese bright, beautiful and interesting young women.
It makes me long for my own kids and I often think of them and how much I wish they could experience this. I hope they will one day.
The trains have compartments with 3 bunks on each side and, as luck would have it, I was assigned the top bunk. Once I was up there, it was fine but I prayed I didn't need to use the loo in the middle of the night. I could just imagine myself climbing down, negotiating the ladders and probably stepping on something or someone in the process. It was a long journey but I made it just fine, not too worse for the wear. The reward was arriving in the beautiful old fort town called Jaisalmer and once we got our bags, navigated our way out of the chaotic station and into jeeps waiting to take us up through the very narrow and winding streets to our hotel....we could finally relax.
It's hard to describe the noise...horns honking, people yelling at each other, tuk tuk's, scooters and motorcycles vying to be heard over the din and inch their way into position. It amazes me that in this crazy chaos I don't think about wearing a seatbelt (there are none) and I readily put my faith in the driver to get me where I need to go, safely. So far, so good.
There are stray cows and oxen everywhere. They feed on the rubbish in the streets (Indian garbage collection solution?) and the long grasses that people cut from the fields and bring them. They are seemingly calm amidst the chaos of the traffic and are regarded with respect as the drivers avoid contact with them.
The next day I booked a pedicure (350 rupees, or $7 cdn) which was great, but very different to what I'm used to. First off, the girl had no way of getting hot water except by placing an electrical wand, plugged perilously into a wall socket that looked like it would spark into fire any moment, into a bucket of water. Not kidding. It seemed to work and I was grateful for the warm soak. An hour and a half later, I emerged, pink toenails and freshly threaded eyebrows....a new woman! I then went out to explore the city and tour the fort and palace.
Shopping in India is a very different experience. Instead of haggling at the market stall, you go inside behind the colourful array of "samples" hanging in front of the shop revealing a huge back room with all the stock neatly stacked and ready to be unfurled for your buying pleasure. There is a huge cushion for you to sit on and they usually offer you chai, or in my case, a beer and then set to work convincing you to buy something, unfurling piles and piles of colourful cashmere and silk to entice you. It is a long process and I succumbed once, emerging an hour later, a bit tipsy, and totally bewildered at how I managed to leave with five pashmina scarves in hand and a dinner date with the much too young shopkeeper. Needless to say, I have tried to avoid this situation ever since. I prefer instead take a rickshaw into the non-touristy parts of the city where I can chat with the locals, drink street chai and take interesting photos.
The people I am travelling with are great, particularly the 8 young women ages 19-28. They have welcomed me into their fold, telling me I am more like a peer than a mom and I am growing increasingly fond of each one of tthese bright, beautiful and interesting young women.
It makes me long for my own kids and I often think of them and how much I wish they could experience this. I hope they will one day.
Wednesday, 21 March 2012
Real India
I think I am getting used to things in India, though some things I doubt I ever will. The smell is at times overwhelming, a choking, gagging sensation that makes me breathe through my mouth most of the time. The constant noise is incredible and the heat is stifling. Horns honking from every vehicle, big or small, people screeching at each other in their high pitched voices, shopkeepers shouting at you for attention. At night, thank goodness, it is blissfully quiet and we have had some lovely evenings sitting on top of rooftop restaurants eating amazing food and getting to know one another. It is very hot - I'm thinking high 30's, and I am told that it is still quite cool by Indian standards...this area can get up to 50 degrees in the summer! As we head further south, the heat will get worse. Most of us have bought some of the baggy trousers to wear because you need to cover up your legs in public (out of respect), and also because it helps keep the sun and any lurking mosquito from getting at you. On this style of group travel we travel as the locals do using public transport and staying in 1-2 star hotels which are comfortable, clean and tend to be in the centre of the town, close to all the action. Our guide gives us an orientation and walking tour of each new place, showing us the main attractions and suggesting good, but affordable places to eat. He then leaves us on our own to do as we wish either with group members or on our own. He also helps us arrange extra things we might like to do in the area.
India is at once a stifling, dirty, vile, fantastic, colourful, richly vibrant and deeply unsettling place. You are faced at one moment with rich culture, festivals, forts, palaces, architecture, temples, beaches, music and then thrust suddenly into the deepest poverty and human filth. It is indeed a place that begins to take hold of you in a way you never expected, in a way that most certainly will change who you are and what you think about the world. I embrace the challenge and the opportunity to once again, permit myself a departure from what is comfortable and safe. My world continues to broaden.
India is at once a stifling, dirty, vile, fantastic, colourful, richly vibrant and deeply unsettling place. You are faced at one moment with rich culture, festivals, forts, palaces, architecture, temples, beaches, music and then thrust suddenly into the deepest poverty and human filth. It is indeed a place that begins to take hold of you in a way you never expected, in a way that most certainly will change who you are and what you think about the world. I embrace the challenge and the opportunity to once again, permit myself a departure from what is comfortable and safe. My world continues to broaden.
Saturday, 17 March 2012
Namaste
I'm sitting on the rooftop of my Havali in Jodhpur, one of Rajasthan's largest cities, a busy, bustling city with the famous and colossal Mehrangarh Fort which dominates the city's skyline. It is very hot - too hot for me to go out in the afternoon so I will attempt to update my blog.
My flight from Nairobi to Dehli was uneventful, though long, and I arrived in Dehli in the morning. The airport was surprisingly easy to navigate and I arranged for a prepaid taxi near the exit. I love these taxi kiosks as there is no haggling, you just book it and they give you a number and when you go outside to the mayhem, you don't feel so overwhelmed. I got to my hotel just in time to meet my roommate, Debra from Australia, and then met the rest of the group. This type of tour I'm on is a basic tour where you have a guide who arranges all the local travel - busses, trains, subway etc. and you get lots of free time to explore on your own. Our guides name is Mayank and he is absolutely lovely. There are twelve of us - 8 young women under 30, two single men over 50, and then me and Debra, roughly the same age. It's an interesting dynamic as I find myself, once again, more comfortable with the young people. Not sure why, but they are all lovely and good fun.
The next day we headed out for a walking tour of Old Dehli. I have to say, after the peaceful time in the Serengeti, I was finding it all a bit too much. Dehli is a filthly, noisy, smelly, chaotic place teeming with people and heat. I was overwhelmed with it all and not sure if I was going to like it here. We made our way by bus to the centre of the city amidst all this utter confusion. India's capital is an exciting, busy, and often chaotic city but it's also one of the most interesting in the world with historical sites from different eras, museums and galleries, shops and endless bazaars! We walked through the famous Chandni Chowk where we tasted masala chai and street snacks made with peanuts, sesame seeds and honey. Its hard to describe the utter filth - gutters streaming with garbage and sewage, people releiving themselves wherever they want and spitting the gross chewing tobacco (pan) onto the street. Yuck! Cows and oxen roam freely amidst the rickshaws, tuk-tuks and motorcycles with surprising calmness and ease. We then set off on the city's modern metro system, and then India's famed public transport, tuk-tuks through chaotic streets. We visited to the Jama Masjid, Delhi's oldest mosque and one of its most impressive buildings, then to the Sheeshganj Gurudwara (Sikh Temple) to learn about the Sikh religion. I have a whole new appreciation for the Sikh religion as they serve free food every day to all the devotees and anyone, rich or poor, without any distinction of caste, creed,or distinction will be served.
Jama Masjid, Delhi's oldest mosque and one of its most impressive buildings, is the largest mosque in India. The Jama Masjid stands across the road in front of the Red Fort. Built between 1644 and 1658, Jama Masjid is one of the last architectural works of the Mughal emperor Shah Jahan. The spacious courtyard of the Jama Masjid holds thousands of faithful. Jama Masjid is located on a mound in the heart of the old city and projects beautifully into the Old-Delhi skyline. Jama Masjid Mosque was built in red sandstone and marble by more than 5000 artisans. Originally called the Masjid-i-Jahan-Numa, or "mosque commanding view of the world", the Jama Masjid stands at the center of the erstwhile capital city of the Mughals, Shahjahanbad.
My flight from Nairobi to Dehli was uneventful, though long, and I arrived in Dehli in the morning. The airport was surprisingly easy to navigate and I arranged for a prepaid taxi near the exit. I love these taxi kiosks as there is no haggling, you just book it and they give you a number and when you go outside to the mayhem, you don't feel so overwhelmed. I got to my hotel just in time to meet my roommate, Debra from Australia, and then met the rest of the group. This type of tour I'm on is a basic tour where you have a guide who arranges all the local travel - busses, trains, subway etc. and you get lots of free time to explore on your own. Our guides name is Mayank and he is absolutely lovely. There are twelve of us - 8 young women under 30, two single men over 50, and then me and Debra, roughly the same age. It's an interesting dynamic as I find myself, once again, more comfortable with the young people. Not sure why, but they are all lovely and good fun.
The next day we headed out for a walking tour of Old Dehli. I have to say, after the peaceful time in the Serengeti, I was finding it all a bit too much. Dehli is a filthly, noisy, smelly, chaotic place teeming with people and heat. I was overwhelmed with it all and not sure if I was going to like it here. We made our way by bus to the centre of the city amidst all this utter confusion. India's capital is an exciting, busy, and often chaotic city but it's also one of the most interesting in the world with historical sites from different eras, museums and galleries, shops and endless bazaars! We walked through the famous Chandni Chowk where we tasted masala chai and street snacks made with peanuts, sesame seeds and honey. Its hard to describe the utter filth - gutters streaming with garbage and sewage, people releiving themselves wherever they want and spitting the gross chewing tobacco (pan) onto the street. Yuck! Cows and oxen roam freely amidst the rickshaws, tuk-tuks and motorcycles with surprising calmness and ease. We then set off on the city's modern metro system, and then India's famed public transport, tuk-tuks through chaotic streets. We visited to the Jama Masjid, Delhi's oldest mosque and one of its most impressive buildings, then to the Sheeshganj Gurudwara (Sikh Temple) to learn about the Sikh religion. I have a whole new appreciation for the Sikh religion as they serve free food every day to all the devotees and anyone, rich or poor, without any distinction of caste, creed,or distinction will be served.
Jama Masjid, Delhi's oldest mosque and one of its most impressive buildings, is the largest mosque in India. The Jama Masjid stands across the road in front of the Red Fort. Built between 1644 and 1658, Jama Masjid is one of the last architectural works of the Mughal emperor Shah Jahan. The spacious courtyard of the Jama Masjid holds thousands of faithful. Jama Masjid is located on a mound in the heart of the old city and projects beautifully into the Old-Delhi skyline. Jama Masjid Mosque was built in red sandstone and marble by more than 5000 artisans. Originally called the Masjid-i-Jahan-Numa, or "mosque commanding view of the world", the Jama Masjid stands at the center of the erstwhile capital city of the Mughals, Shahjahanbad.
Thursday, 15 March 2012
Mto Wa Mbu
Our last night of camping and we stop at Mto Wa Mbu, a small village community, offering an excellent opportunity to get a close-up look at a small African town away from the main tourist trail. Our campsite is in Meserani on the outskirts of Arusha, the place where 5 of our group will leave us to trek Mt Killimangero. I was wishing I had considered doing this as well - who knows if I'll ever get another opportunity.
Our last night together and a special meal of roast goat (on a spit) and then to one of the best bars I've ever been to. The walls and ceilings are covered with t-shirts left from visitors from all over the world. This rustic pub sits beside the snake zoo where we viewed boa constrictors, pythons and crocs.
For the last time, we pack up our tents and head back to Nairobi, the end of an amazing experience and one I shall never forget. A group of very special people including our local guides made it very hard to say goodbye. Another 19 people to add to the long list of people I have met on my travels so far.
*****
I'm sitting on the plane, on my way to India, feeling like I'm not ready to leave this extraordinary place. I meet people every day who tell me I'm so brave to do all this travelling, but really, I just think I'm so very blessed.
So, the next adventure is about to begin. As each month goes by, I feel myself changing and growing in a way that I know would never experience by living my life as it was. This time is a gift beyond measure and not a minute goes by that I don't recognise how truly blessed I am.
I am thankful. I am fortunate. I am happy.
The gifts of the Camino continue to be bestowed upon me.
Our last night together and a special meal of roast goat (on a spit) and then to one of the best bars I've ever been to. The walls and ceilings are covered with t-shirts left from visitors from all over the world. This rustic pub sits beside the snake zoo where we viewed boa constrictors, pythons and crocs.
For the last time, we pack up our tents and head back to Nairobi, the end of an amazing experience and one I shall never forget. A group of very special people including our local guides made it very hard to say goodbye. Another 19 people to add to the long list of people I have met on my travels so far.
*****
I'm sitting on the plane, on my way to India, feeling like I'm not ready to leave this extraordinary place. I meet people every day who tell me I'm so brave to do all this travelling, but really, I just think I'm so very blessed.
So, the next adventure is about to begin. As each month goes by, I feel myself changing and growing in a way that I know would never experience by living my life as it was. This time is a gift beyond measure and not a minute goes by that I don't recognise how truly blessed I am.
I am thankful. I am fortunate. I am happy.
The gifts of the Camino continue to be bestowed upon me.
Wednesday, 14 March 2012
Ngorongoro Crater
Another game drive out of the park as we continue our journey to the Ngorongoro crater, approx 80 kms out. I was totally unprepared for the profound beauty of the view of the crater and for the second time on my travels was moved to tears by what I was seeing. This is indeed God's work and i was truly awed. I knew this was going to be one of those once-in-a-lifetime experiences that I will never forget. It is fiercely protected and they only let so many vehicles in the park a day. You are given a time that you must return and if you don't you are heavily fined.
Our campsite on the rim of the crater overlooks jagged volcanic peaks and rolling grasslands thousands of feet below. With cold showers and drop toilets, this is likely one of the most spectacular campsites with such a view. It was quite cold but we built a fire and stayed up late looking at the stars and the magnificent full moon - an added bonus!
After an early breakfast, we descended to the crater floor in 4x4 jeeps, a steep 600m below the rim. A huge, perfectly intact crater, Ngorongoro Crater is home to approximately 30,000 animals including the endangered black rhino. We were told there was only a 50% chance of seeing one of which there are only 28 in the whole of the crater. This is the only place they live and the park staff are committed to increasing the herd. We were lucky enough to see this rare sight as we viewed a group of 5 off in the distance, completing our viewing of the Big Five! Another highlight was the leopard, sleeping in the tree, it's limbs hanging down, completely relaxed. It was incredible to see the thousands of pink flamingoes that grace the edge of the lake feeding off the algae that turns them the vibrant pink colour. Again, elephants, lions, impalas, zebras and hippos along with the hyenas and warthogs who frequently cross the road in front of us. Towards the end of the drive, we were able to witness the migration of the wilder beasts, approximately 1.25 million of them, a magnificent sight indeed. I was so impressed with the driver's knowledge and the complete regard for the life of the animals. He told us that at times, whilst the vehicle is parked, a lion will come and lie down in the shade of the vehicle or even jump onto the hood, and if this happens, they do not move the car until the lion decides to move on. This can take hours, and it is this profound regard for the animals that made me so thankful for their diligence to keep the animals safe in their natural habitat.
What strikes me as so incredibly amazing is that each and every living thing, plant, insect, or mammal depends on each other to create this wondrous and perfect place on earth. Never have I been so in awe, so enraptured by the very existence of these marvellous creatures.
Our campsite on the rim of the crater overlooks jagged volcanic peaks and rolling grasslands thousands of feet below. With cold showers and drop toilets, this is likely one of the most spectacular campsites with such a view. It was quite cold but we built a fire and stayed up late looking at the stars and the magnificent full moon - an added bonus!
After an early breakfast, we descended to the crater floor in 4x4 jeeps, a steep 600m below the rim. A huge, perfectly intact crater, Ngorongoro Crater is home to approximately 30,000 animals including the endangered black rhino. We were told there was only a 50% chance of seeing one of which there are only 28 in the whole of the crater. This is the only place they live and the park staff are committed to increasing the herd. We were lucky enough to see this rare sight as we viewed a group of 5 off in the distance, completing our viewing of the Big Five! Another highlight was the leopard, sleeping in the tree, it's limbs hanging down, completely relaxed. It was incredible to see the thousands of pink flamingoes that grace the edge of the lake feeding off the algae that turns them the vibrant pink colour. Again, elephants, lions, impalas, zebras and hippos along with the hyenas and warthogs who frequently cross the road in front of us. Towards the end of the drive, we were able to witness the migration of the wilder beasts, approximately 1.25 million of them, a magnificent sight indeed. I was so impressed with the driver's knowledge and the complete regard for the life of the animals. He told us that at times, whilst the vehicle is parked, a lion will come and lie down in the shade of the vehicle or even jump onto the hood, and if this happens, they do not move the car until the lion decides to move on. This can take hours, and it is this profound regard for the animals that made me so thankful for their diligence to keep the animals safe in their natural habitat.
What strikes me as so incredibly amazing is that each and every living thing, plant, insect, or mammal depends on each other to create this wondrous and perfect place on earth. Never have I been so in awe, so enraptured by the very existence of these marvellous creatures.
Tuesday, 13 March 2012
Serengeti National Park, Tanzania
About 100km drive and we entered the Sarengeti National Park, 14,763 square kilometers in size. Over the next 120 km we began our game drive and were immediately treated to herds of wilderbeast, zebras, and impalas, grazing and barely looking up to notice us. Everyone got really excited when the first two giraffes appeared and then, only minutes later, a herd of elephants. It is indescribable to witness these majestic beasts in their natural habitat. The wide open plains of the Serengeti, green now because of the recent rain is home to thousands of hoofed animals and fierce predators, the quintessential image of Africa. Flat and rolling with long grasses and dotted with acacia trees, the plains get their name from the Massai word "Siringitu" which means "the place where the land moves on forever". There were so many amazing moments as we witnessed the solitude and reverence of the animals in the park over the next two days. It is not a given that you will see The Big Five on one trip but we have been abundantly blessed to see them all. Elephants, lions, leopards, buffalo and even the elusive leopard. So many more including giraffes, herds of wilderbeasts, warthogs, impalas, ostriches, gnus, dikdiks, hyenas, to name a few.
And the birds alone! With over 500 species in the Serengeti we were able to spot quite a few. My favourite was the red-billed oxpecker, magnificent in its irridescent bright shiny blue/green colours and closely related to the starling . Our guides were equipped with books and were themselves incredibly knowledgeable about a lot of the animals and birds. The only negative was that we got stuck in the mud and it took two hours to dig ourselves out, eventually being rescued by a truck with a pully that hauled while the rest of us pushed. It was actually kind of fun and just added to the "real life experience".
On our second day in the Serengeti, we woke up very early in order to be out at dawn when the animals are at their most active. Once again, we found ourselves stuck in the mud and another two hours to dig and push and finally free ourselves from the thick, wet mud. Back to the campsite for brunch and then relaxing, doing laundry by hand and hanging it in the sun to dry. We headed out again at dusk and were treated to the sight of the many animals that live there. I think my favourite is the elephants as they are just so majestic. It is mesmerising watching the animals. They seem oblivious to us as they regard the vehicles as part of the environment and do not feel the least bit frightened or spooked. At times they came right up to the vehicle, which was truly amazing. At one point there was a male elephant right beside the truck and he looked at us and then raised his trunk and roared! I also love the giraffes. Up close you can see their long eyelashes as they graze at the top branches of the thorny acacia trees. It amazes me how they can twist their long tongues around the thorny branch somehow managing to take the tiny leaves without getting pierced by the long thorns. I learned that they have a kind of natural defence in their tongues that prevent them from ingesting the poison from the thorns. Nature is so amazing!
Our campsite is right in the serengeti itself and as we sat around the campfire, we could hear the nocturnal sounds of the animals and were visited by a hyena, lurking nearby in the shadows, not menacing, but definitely hoping for something to scavenge.
There are many Massai villages near the Serengeti, and, while it is a fascinating culture, these villages now exist for the purpose of tourism and the Massai try to sell souvenirs, a disappointing aspect of the experience. I have begun to realise that as the world grows smaller, it is increasingly difficult to experience the remoteness and authenticity of these ancient and remote cultures. There are still some authentic Massai who live the true life of their culture, herding their animals, living on fresh blood and milk as their only food.
And the birds alone! With over 500 species in the Serengeti we were able to spot quite a few. My favourite was the red-billed oxpecker, magnificent in its irridescent bright shiny blue/green colours and closely related to the starling . Our guides were equipped with books and were themselves incredibly knowledgeable about a lot of the animals and birds. The only negative was that we got stuck in the mud and it took two hours to dig ourselves out, eventually being rescued by a truck with a pully that hauled while the rest of us pushed. It was actually kind of fun and just added to the "real life experience".
On our second day in the Serengeti, we woke up very early in order to be out at dawn when the animals are at their most active. Once again, we found ourselves stuck in the mud and another two hours to dig and push and finally free ourselves from the thick, wet mud. Back to the campsite for brunch and then relaxing, doing laundry by hand and hanging it in the sun to dry. We headed out again at dusk and were treated to the sight of the many animals that live there. I think my favourite is the elephants as they are just so majestic. It is mesmerising watching the animals. They seem oblivious to us as they regard the vehicles as part of the environment and do not feel the least bit frightened or spooked. At times they came right up to the vehicle, which was truly amazing. At one point there was a male elephant right beside the truck and he looked at us and then raised his trunk and roared! I also love the giraffes. Up close you can see their long eyelashes as they graze at the top branches of the thorny acacia trees. It amazes me how they can twist their long tongues around the thorny branch somehow managing to take the tiny leaves without getting pierced by the long thorns. I learned that they have a kind of natural defence in their tongues that prevent them from ingesting the poison from the thorns. Nature is so amazing!
Our campsite is right in the serengeti itself and as we sat around the campfire, we could hear the nocturnal sounds of the animals and were visited by a hyena, lurking nearby in the shadows, not menacing, but definitely hoping for something to scavenge.
There are many Massai villages near the Serengeti, and, while it is a fascinating culture, these villages now exist for the purpose of tourism and the Massai try to sell souvenirs, a disappointing aspect of the experience. I have begun to realise that as the world grows smaller, it is increasingly difficult to experience the remoteness and authenticity of these ancient and remote cultures. There are still some authentic Massai who live the true life of their culture, herding their animals, living on fresh blood and milk as their only food.
Lake Victoria
Travelling towards the Tanzania border and our next stop, lake Victoria, Africa's biggest lake and the world's biggest tropical lake. It's shores are shared by Kenya, Tanzania, and Uganda. The nearest town is Musoma and we stopped there for a quick visit to the market and bank machine. We camped on the shores of the lake on the outskirts of Musoma, one of the least visited campgrounds. It was quiet, peaceful and very beautiful. I felt at home on the lake, though you are not allowed to swim there. Watching the sunset was a real gift. Our camp cook Sue, is an amazing cook and tonight made traditional Kenyan food which is a beef stew, chiapatas and a white maize thing which is like a lump of dough...not very appetising on its own but seems to go with the meal. The Kenyans were delighted as it is one of the favourite foods. Up very early to begin our Serengeti game drive.
Sunday, 11 March 2012
Camping, not "glam ping"
My first experience with bush camping has been great. There is a style of travel in Africa called overland exploring. It's inexpensive and requires that you help out with the basic cooking, cleaning and maintenance. When we get to the camp site, everyone gets out of the truck, grabs their tent and sets it up. Then you get your stuff out of your locker, set it up in your tent - sleeping mat and bedding, clothing etc. it's best to do this when it's light as it is often remote and there is little light once it goes dark. A headlamp is absolutely essential, as are extra batteries. There is a rota of duties and you are part of a team of four. Duties range from food prep, cleaning out the truck, dishes, and pots and pans, and "flapping", a technique for drying dishes in the most sanitary way, this is actually quite brilliant. There are three basins, one to do the initial rinse, the next with hot soapy water, then a first rinse with a little Dettol in it, and the last simply a hot rinse. Everyone takes a dish in each hand and flaps around until they are dry. The same goes for washing hands. One basin with soap and a scrub brush, one rinse with dettol and the last one a clear rinse. No one got sick in the whole time we were away. It's amazing to me how quickly we became efficient at set-up and take-down each day. There is lots of laughter and everyone is willing to help out with anything needing doing.
the truck was a beast but we got used to it and spent many hours going over bumpy, dusty roads. Getting stuck in the mud was quite an adventure, but again, teamwork prevailed and we survived.
the truck was a beast but we got used to it and spent many hours going over bumpy, dusty roads. Getting stuck in the mud was quite an adventure, but again, teamwork prevailed and we survived.
5 hours in Dubai is giving me the time I need to catch up on my blog. It was hard saying goodbye to my friends today and I am realising that this trip is full of rich friendships from all over the world that inevitably end in goodbye, very few who I will see again. You get very close, very quickly and begin trusting people who are complete strangers. Everybody shares everything they have, whether it's snacks, bug spray, medications, or even clothing. It is the way of the traveller.
There is an acronym we use here in Africa: TIA (this is Africa). It explains away anything and is always said with a big smile.
Nairobi (Maasai meaning: "place of cool waters")
I arrived safely after an uneventful journey from Addis to Nairobi. I got here around mid afternoon so had plenty of time to get settled and found myself beside the pool as it was a hot and humid day. The swim was glorious. I met the group at 6pm and then had a beer and dinner with Stephani from NYC (a replica of Carrie from Sex in the City.....really) and Liz from Yorkshire. These girls are going to be a lot of fun! There are 14 people including people from London, New Zealand, Ireland, Germany and NYC. The guides, drivers and cook are Kenyan. So far, it seems like a good group.
The vehicle is massive and capable of taking us on very rough roads. It will carry everything we need for the safari including dishes, tents, sleeping mats and food and water. We each have our own locker which has to fit all our belongings - i am so glad i have learned to pack light. I'm really looking forward to doing some proper camping and we are told that the bush camps in the Serengeti are located amidst the animals whom are free to roam where they will. It is not unusual to have hyenas, warthogs and even elephants visit your campsite in the night! First stop was overlooking the Rift Valley which was incredible! The thorny Acacia trees, so quintessentially African, stand out against the serene landscape.
We continued to travel through the tea-growing highlands going west towards the Tanzania border. It is quite hot, high 30's and I am enjoying the warmth and sunshine. This is the ancient homeland of the Massai, tall, graceful tribesmen dressed in distinctive scarlet robes, tending their prized herds of cattle. Children stand by the side of the road, their bright smiles so beautiful, waving up at us as we pass by. The countryside is lush and green and the donkeys look healthy and strong, unlike the ones in Morocco who were skinny and carrying too much weight.
We stopped in the hilltop town of Kisii where we stocked up on all the supplies as we head out into the African wilderness to begin our safari on the Serengeti. 8 hours on a very rough road. Tonight we are staying just outside of Kisii, in dormitories with hot showers, flush toilets, and beds with bedding, the last luxury before the upcoming bush camps with cold showers and stand toilets.
There is an acronym we use here in Africa: TIA (this is Africa). It explains away anything and is always said with a big smile.
Nairobi (Maasai meaning: "place of cool waters")
I arrived safely after an uneventful journey from Addis to Nairobi. I got here around mid afternoon so had plenty of time to get settled and found myself beside the pool as it was a hot and humid day. The swim was glorious. I met the group at 6pm and then had a beer and dinner with Stephani from NYC (a replica of Carrie from Sex in the City.....really) and Liz from Yorkshire. These girls are going to be a lot of fun! There are 14 people including people from London, New Zealand, Ireland, Germany and NYC. The guides, drivers and cook are Kenyan. So far, it seems like a good group.
The vehicle is massive and capable of taking us on very rough roads. It will carry everything we need for the safari including dishes, tents, sleeping mats and food and water. We each have our own locker which has to fit all our belongings - i am so glad i have learned to pack light. I'm really looking forward to doing some proper camping and we are told that the bush camps in the Serengeti are located amidst the animals whom are free to roam where they will. It is not unusual to have hyenas, warthogs and even elephants visit your campsite in the night! First stop was overlooking the Rift Valley which was incredible! The thorny Acacia trees, so quintessentially African, stand out against the serene landscape.
We continued to travel through the tea-growing highlands going west towards the Tanzania border. It is quite hot, high 30's and I am enjoying the warmth and sunshine. This is the ancient homeland of the Massai, tall, graceful tribesmen dressed in distinctive scarlet robes, tending their prized herds of cattle. Children stand by the side of the road, their bright smiles so beautiful, waving up at us as we pass by. The countryside is lush and green and the donkeys look healthy and strong, unlike the ones in Morocco who were skinny and carrying too much weight.
We stopped in the hilltop town of Kisii where we stocked up on all the supplies as we head out into the African wilderness to begin our safari on the Serengeti. 8 hours on a very rough road. Tonight we are staying just outside of Kisii, in dormitories with hot showers, flush toilets, and beds with bedding, the last luxury before the upcoming bush camps with cold showers and stand toilets.
Saturday, 10 March 2012
Bahar Dair
I left very early this morning, arriving in Bahar Dair around 9:30am. I had arranged a driver and a guide (Kindu) to take me to the Blue Nile Falls and the monasteries on the peninsula. He greeted me with enthusiasm and since I was his only customer, took good care to ensue I had a good experience. We drove through the city to the lake where my hotel was; I dropped off my suitcase and off we went. It was a very hot day and the road was dusty and rough. We passed many people on their way to market, miles away. The men, draped in the traditional gabi carrying a stick across their shoulders, their thin spindly legs like sticks. The women, draped in their traditional dresses and natelas, carrying huge bundles on their heads, invariably a child strapped to their backs. We complain when we have to walk anywhere...I am struck by the searing contrast of my life.
The journey was hot and dusty, the road very rough. We passed a garbage dump with flocks of buzzards perched heavily on the branches of the trees, somehow managing to look majestic, waiting to dive down to eat something fleshy and dead. To keep them at bay, the men started burning the rubbish, acrid smoke filling the air.
The jaquaranda trees were in full bloom, the branches heavy with the mauve blossoms, like puffs of purple smoke standing out against the dry, brown landscape. I wanted to get closer so I could smell them, wondering if they even have a scent.
We drove through the village where the market took place, a busy, bustling hive of activity. Children running around, barefoot and ragged, goats and donkeys sometimes making it impossible to pass. We eventually got to the place where we met the local guide and began walking towards the falls. It was a moderate climb up into the hills, very hot and dusty. At one point I found myself thinking - here I am, in the middle of a strange country with two men I don't know, trusting that they will take me where I want to go. Again, as in so many times on my travels, I felt I was taken care of. The last bit was to cross a suspension bridge high above the rocky river bed, dry now until the rains come. I am terrified of heights but managed to cross by looking up and holding the hand of my trusty guide.
I knew that being the dry season the Blue Nile Falls would be underwhelming, but the landscape and beauty of the area was spectacular. I saw where the Blue Nile feeds into Lake Tana.
The next day we took a boat across the lake to the peninsula and onto what felt like an unspoiled remote island. Again, the warmth and smiles were so beguiling and I find myself pulled into the life there. I saw monkeys swinging and playing in the trees, tasted the juice from the ripe coffee beans, bought a small painting from a local artist who uses natural colours from the plants and flowers, took traditional, ceremonial tea, and had a tour of the 14th century church. When i think of all the magnificent churches i have seen along the way, I felt more at home in this humble and well loved church. This island was paradise to me and I am once again struck by the simplicity and appreciation for the environment the people live in. I want to live there!
Back to Addis where I was picked up at the airport by Ray and the boys. We had a lovely day lounging by the pool at the Sheraton and then an amazing last night dinner at an authentic Ethiopian restaurant which was so good, in fact best meal in Ethiopia. Saying goodbye to this little family was difficult for me as I grew very close to them all in the week we spent together. I think of them with great fondness and hope it won't be too long till I see them all again.
I wish I had more time to visit Gondor and Lalibela but I guess this just means I'll have to come back some day.
The journey was hot and dusty, the road very rough. We passed a garbage dump with flocks of buzzards perched heavily on the branches of the trees, somehow managing to look majestic, waiting to dive down to eat something fleshy and dead. To keep them at bay, the men started burning the rubbish, acrid smoke filling the air.
The jaquaranda trees were in full bloom, the branches heavy with the mauve blossoms, like puffs of purple smoke standing out against the dry, brown landscape. I wanted to get closer so I could smell them, wondering if they even have a scent.
We drove through the village where the market took place, a busy, bustling hive of activity. Children running around, barefoot and ragged, goats and donkeys sometimes making it impossible to pass. We eventually got to the place where we met the local guide and began walking towards the falls. It was a moderate climb up into the hills, very hot and dusty. At one point I found myself thinking - here I am, in the middle of a strange country with two men I don't know, trusting that they will take me where I want to go. Again, as in so many times on my travels, I felt I was taken care of. The last bit was to cross a suspension bridge high above the rocky river bed, dry now until the rains come. I am terrified of heights but managed to cross by looking up and holding the hand of my trusty guide.
I knew that being the dry season the Blue Nile Falls would be underwhelming, but the landscape and beauty of the area was spectacular. I saw where the Blue Nile feeds into Lake Tana.
The next day we took a boat across the lake to the peninsula and onto what felt like an unspoiled remote island. Again, the warmth and smiles were so beguiling and I find myself pulled into the life there. I saw monkeys swinging and playing in the trees, tasted the juice from the ripe coffee beans, bought a small painting from a local artist who uses natural colours from the plants and flowers, took traditional, ceremonial tea, and had a tour of the 14th century church. When i think of all the magnificent churches i have seen along the way, I felt more at home in this humble and well loved church. This island was paradise to me and I am once again struck by the simplicity and appreciation for the environment the people live in. I want to live there!
Back to Addis where I was picked up at the airport by Ray and the boys. We had a lovely day lounging by the pool at the Sheraton and then an amazing last night dinner at an authentic Ethiopian restaurant which was so good, in fact best meal in Ethiopia. Saying goodbye to this little family was difficult for me as I grew very close to them all in the week we spent together. I think of them with great fondness and hope it won't be too long till I see them all again.
I wish I had more time to visit Gondor and Lalibela but I guess this just means I'll have to come back some day.
Friday, 2 March 2012
Ethiopian Coffee Ceremony
I had read about this and wondered if I would be able to experience it, which, to my great delight was arranged for me by Al on Monday afternoon. Almez had prepared the little customery table laid with cups, spoons and coffee pot and placed it on the floor. Beside the tiny table, a small hibachi heating coals with frankincense, giving off that familiar smell reminding me of the incense in church. She sat on a tiny stool and took a small, flat pan and began to roast the green coffee beans over the coals. Once the beans were sufficiently roasted and we could smell their rich, dark, smokey odour, she took them off the heat and put them into a mortar and ground them with the stone pestle into a rich, black dust. She spooned it delicately into the narrow spout of the clay coffee pot and added hot water. We drank two tiny cups each, without sugar or milk. It was so thick and full of flavour, nothing like what I drink at home. Coffee is one of the major exports in Ethiopia, the arabica bean being the most widely known. Al told me that when you share coffee in this traditional way, you would go to the home of one of your neighbours and everyone would sit on the floor, talking and sharing the gossip and stories of the week. Popcorn is served with the coffee, a strange combination, but one that works quite well, I thought.
Addis Ababa
Addis Ababa is a busy, bustling city where beggars, tuk tuks, and street children clamour for your attention - I felt as I have felt in other places in Africa, overwhelmed with the sight of ragged dirty children, polio cripples, and people relieving themselves in public. Despite all this, I never felt any threat to my personal safety other than being a passenger in a vehicle...the driving is crazy!
Alemu spent the past couple of days taking me to the museums and art galleries in Addis. We first went to the National Museum where the skeletal remains of Lucy, a hominid woman who lived about 3.2million years ago are kept. Ethiopians refer to her as "Dinquinesh", meaning "thou art wonderful". Although not the oldest skeleton ever found, the finding was significant in that it proved that humans were walking upright 2.5 million years earlier than previously thought. I found it all so fascinating.
We visited the university which was once the palace of the Emperor Haile Selasi. Inside, the museum does a wonderful job of showing the life and history of the Ethiopian people describing the rituals of birth, marriage and death as well as what happens when young boys and girls come of age. Colourful artwork from the 16th and 17th century depicting religious stories from the bible, painted with natural inks that were once vibrant and rich. In another area there were vestments and jewels once worn by the deacons and high priests of the orthodox church. They were kept in dusty glass cases, a mere padlock keeping them safe. I couldn't help compare these "riches" with the ostentatious blatancy of the crown jewels and the many priceless accoutrements with their high and technical security. The contrast was profound.
Alemu spent the past couple of days taking me to the museums and art galleries in Addis. We first went to the National Museum where the skeletal remains of Lucy, a hominid woman who lived about 3.2million years ago are kept. Ethiopians refer to her as "Dinquinesh", meaning "thou art wonderful". Although not the oldest skeleton ever found, the finding was significant in that it proved that humans were walking upright 2.5 million years earlier than previously thought. I found it all so fascinating.
We visited the university which was once the palace of the Emperor Haile Selasi. Inside, the museum does a wonderful job of showing the life and history of the Ethiopian people describing the rituals of birth, marriage and death as well as what happens when young boys and girls come of age. Colourful artwork from the 16th and 17th century depicting religious stories from the bible, painted with natural inks that were once vibrant and rich. In another area there were vestments and jewels once worn by the deacons and high priests of the orthodox church. They were kept in dusty glass cases, a mere padlock keeping them safe. I couldn't help compare these "riches" with the ostentatious blatancy of the crown jewels and the many priceless accoutrements with their high and technical security. The contrast was profound.
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