Life in Deep Cove

Deep Cove

Deep Cove Park

Well, I've been here nearly two weeks now and am so far enjoying living in the mountains. Or at least it feels like that anyway. It's very quiet, very hilly, and very beautiful. I am house sitting for friends who head down south every winter and need someone to stay in their beautiful house overlooking the Cove. Hmmm. It wasn't a really hard decision to make. I'm closer to my kids, though James lives in Aldergrove, about an hour away, and Sarah, Rob and Robbie live in East Vancouver, about 30 minutes away. Added bonus is my sister Judith and her husband Peter and my brother Jamie also live about 30 minutes away. So, this is my chance to see what it would be like to live on the coast and be able to participate in and create family gatherings.

The Deck and View

The House

Major challenges include:
• Making new friends in a place where I know nobody.
• Driving in the big city.
• Getting lost.
• Dealing with torrential downpours that last all day.
• Convincing people to make the drive out here.

George and I manage two good walks every day and are discovering some great paths and trails. Our favourite one is Quarry Rock, about an hour and a half there and back. It's challenging - steep in both directions with a bit of flat but all in the forest. The view in the end is lovely and worth it. Not so fun in the rain, but we try and pick drier days to do it.

The squatters

Deep Cove itself reminds me a little of Nelson, only smaller. The village is quaint and overlooks the cove with a lovely park along the shore. The marina with the majestic sailboats, waiting for the perfect opportunity to venture out. People are friendly here as well. I've met dogwalkers, store owners, and random people just smiling and sometimes saying a friendly hello. All in all, I think it will work out just fine and despite my slight lonliness at the moment, I'm enjoying the peace and quiet and know that come May, I'll probably have made a friend or two.

Day 9 - Back to Halifax

We have been staying in a place called Baddeck on Cape Breton Island. Baddeck is a tiny village situated on the northern shores of Bras d'Or lake. The name Baddeck is derived from the Mi'kmaq term "Abadak" which has been translated as "place with an island near". Baddeck is one of several Cape Breton communities that plays host to the Celtic Colours festival each fall. The music festival features hundreds of Celtic musicians from Cape Breton and around the world. And every night after they've played at the various venues, they have an "after party" that begins at 11pm and ends....well, let's just say they serve breakfast at the venue. Our hotel had a free shuttle service to the party and I was thinking what a fun thing that would be to do. But we had to get up early the next day and  I thought it would be too late. I met a young couple at the pub who convinced me to go with them and that I could take the shuttle back at 1:30. I decided to go for it thinking that wouldn't be too late and I could survive. I ended up taking the last shuttle back at 3:30 am arriving at the hotel at 4:00. All I can say is....it was worth it! The music was incredible - the fiddles, accordians, guitars, spoons, singing and of course, the foot stomping! I was so incredibly tired the next day but I would have always regretted it if I hadn't gone.

New Friends

We left Cape Breton Island bright and early and I must admit, I was a little sad. We stopped at Sugar Moon Farm and spent the morning at a charming log cabin where we were treated to a brunch of pancakes, biscuits with maple butter (Yum!!) sausages and of course, plenty of maple syrup. What a feast! We had a tour of the facility and met the family that runs the farm who told us about the unique organic methods they employ to produce the delicious maple syrup. Some things I did not know: Maple syrup only comes from the sugar maple trees which only grow in the East. 90% of all maple syrup is produced in Quebec and it takes approximately 40 litres of sap to make one litre of maple syrup! No wonder it's so pricey.

Sugar Moon Farm

Back to Halifax and the end of our tour. We had such a great time and it was hard saying goodbye to our new friends, our tour guide Chris and trusty (and patient) bus driver Brian. Mom and I went down to the pier for bit of shopping and a last dinner with Denny and Mary at "Salty's". Next part of the adventure begins with the first leg of our train journey all the way back to Vancouver.

Day 8 - Cape Breton Island and the Cabot Trail

Atlantic Coastline

Cabot Trail

We spent the day exploring the Cabot Trail and I fell in love with its rugged terrain and spectacular Atlantic Ocean views. The weather was not so good, a bit foggy, but it cleared from time to time and we were able to marvel at the stunning views. 

St. Peter's Church - Cheticamp

We stopped in Cheticamp for lunch and took a moment to peek into the famed St. Peter's Church and strolled the streets of this traditional village steeped in the vibrant culture of the "Old World" French. At the Acadian museum, we saw a demonstration of the traditional hooked rug. Years ago, I came across one at a antique shop in Victoria. I didn't pay much 
for it, but I liked it and appreciated the handiwork. It wasn't until I saw the hooked rugs here that I realized the value of this rug. I think I'll keep it forever! 

Neil's Harbour

On the way back we stopped at a lovely fishing community called Neil's Harbour. I loved the opportunity to walk around, take pictures and relished the beauty of the coastline that I have come to associate with the east coast of Canada.

I want to say a few words about the people we've met on this tour. Many are from the USA and I have to say, are some of the nicest and friendliest people I've ever met. There are Canadians also and a couple from England. There's Barbara and Ray from New Jersey, Pat from Spokane, Denny and Mary from Wisconsin...to name a few. And in Canada, Joan from Kelowna, Maria from Toronto, Judy and Joan from Alberta. Also, the people in the Maritimes are absolutely the warmest I've met during my travels. Right up there with the Liverpudlians! I had no idea that the rich culture, the fishing and farming, the Acadian history were so profoundly and authentically true to their reputation. Wonderful, wonderful people in Atlantic Canada!

Day 7 - Cape Breton Island

Today we left P.E.I. by ferry back to Nova Scotia across the Northumberland Straight. We drove over the Canso Causeway to Cape Breton Island. It was a stunning drive drive along the pristine shores of Bras d'Or Lakes, Canada's only inland sea. Spent a marvellous afternoon at the Alexander Graham Bell museum - it was a brilliant display of his life and his inventions and his dedication to helping people with hearing problems. It was fascinating....I had no idea!

Day 6 - Charlottown

Home of Lucy Maude Montgomery

My Mom is so cute!

A little old....but I may have found my farmer!

 

The earth is really brick red

Today we visited the Anne of Green Gables museum, the house in which Lucy Maude Montgomery lived and upon which she based her books. The property is still owned by the family and is still farmed - a lot of potatoes, mostly grown for french fries. The grounds surrounding the house are green and lush and exactly as she described them in her book. The soil is brick red and they grow the unusual blue potato which is actually a bright purple. We even got to help the farmer plant some in the garden!

Downtown Charlottown

Charlottown

We spent the afternoon in the seaside town of Charlottetown wandering around the town enjoying the old buildings and the quaint tree lined streets. We visited an old manor house overlooking the bay that has been restored. The history was interesting and evident with much of the old furnishings and dishes, beautiful. dinner at an Irish pub rounded off the evening perfectly.

Day 5 - Prince Edward Island

Confederation Bridge - Cavendish PEI

On to PEI, "Island cradled in the waves" and setting of the famous Anne of Green Gables by Lucy Maude Montgomery. Mom and I were struck by the beauty and pride taken in the rolling, lush green landscape. Everything is so well taken care of...the houses and yards, the farms and buildings so pretty to look at. A highlight of the day was passing over the stately Confederation Bridge into PEI - 13km long! You don't pay a toll to go into PEI, but you pay when you leave! I like it!

dipping my toes in the Atlantic Ocean

On to Cavendish where we headed down to the windy beaches of the Atlantic ocean in Cavendish National Park. I just had to put my feet in....it was not that cold, certainly no worse than Kootenay Lake. Then a quick stop at the village of Rustico and it's celebrated wharf dotted with fishing boats and lobster traps.

Avonlea

A visit to the quaint village of Avonlea where the buildings from Lucy Maude Montgomery's community of Long River were brought, erected and restored to recreate the fictitious town of Avonlea as depicted in the books.

Best oysters in the world!

Fresh today!

Acadian Musicians

We heard musicians play the piano, accordion, fiddle and guitar and then were treated to fresh oysters, the best in the world. Dinner was a traditional kitchen party complete with fresh lobster, mussels, oysters and, of course potatoes! And then the music! We have nothing like this in the west. Everything seems to be about the music and the stories told though it. It's truly wonderful.

Day 4 - The Bay of Fundy

Today we travelled to the Bay of Fundy and the sea sprayed shoreline to the amazing Hopewell Rocks, a New Brunswick icon. These magnificent sandstone rock flower pot formations carved by the Fundy tides rise 4 stories high at low tide and then disappear into tiny islands when the tide is high. This process happens every 6 hours and 13 minutes. We walked on the beach and took the mandatory photo in the "lovers arch".

Later we visited the Pays de la Sogouine Heritage Centre where we experienced a true celebration of Acadian history and culture. The woman who was our guide reminded me SO much of Mathilde Klassen both in mannerisms and enthusiasm. She left us with this message: The most important thing in life is to be proud of who you are and where you came from.....and PARTY!!!


She was great! Learning abou the history of the Atlantic coast has been so wonderful and I have a great appreciation for the Acadian culture and heritage. People worked hard, endured much hardship but always had time to enjoy life. Joie de Vivre, indeed!!

The famous "flowerpot" rock formations at Hopewell

Lovers Arch - Hopewell Rocks

La Pays de la Sagouin

First hand re-enactment of Acadian times