Paris in the springtime

As long as I can remember, I have always wanted to go to Paris. Each time I've travelled over here, the thought has come up but because of other travel plans or commitments I never made it happen. Until now. I was determined to get there this time and was just going to get the Eurostar over for a few days when I got a Facebook message from my childhood best buddy Nancy saying she had just booked an apartment in Paris for two weeks and could I join her. Ummmmm, YES! Thrilled I was! First, at going to Paris finally, but more thrilled because it had been 32 years since Nancy and I had seen each other. I quickly booked my flight and we made our plans. So here is my account of a journey, and a meeting that was long overdue..... After navigating my way through Charles de Gaulle airport, finding the train at Gare du Nord and then taking a cab the short distance from the station to the address of the apartment, I arrived around 10:30pm. Nancy was on the street to greet me and we embraced and giggled for a long moment. Up to the apartment which was quite luxurious compared with where I normally stay, and there to greet me were Nancy's sister Bonnie and her husband Ron, also from Calgary and there for a week. We had a glass of bubbly and chatted for at least an hour catching up and making plans for the next day. MUSEA D'ORSAY When we woke up, we got ready to go out for my first day in Paris! I was excited, I'll be honest. So much to see and do and only 6 days. First thing: cafe. Just around the corner was a little restaurant where we each had a coffee (4€ ea). Okay, this is Paris and the waiter was decent. Nance and I decided to walk to the Musea D'Orsay and ended up getting caught in a magnificent rain storm. Then we queued for our tickets for about an hour. It was fine, we had 32 years to catch up on...we were wet, but it didnt matter. I was thrilled to find out that Nancy does museums the way I do....audio guides! Unfortunately it was a busy day and they ran out of English guides so we just started with the impressionists and got lost in a time of romance and soft beauty. We spent about 4 hours in total, and it is a great collection of so many masterpieces I knew. Afterwards we wandered towards the Louvre and ended up in a bar for a much needed beer (another similarity I was thrilled about!) The plan was to meet Bon and Ron for dinner at 9:00 and we made our way back to the 9th arrondissement, our neighbourhood. We sat outside and had a wonderful dinner of escargot, French onion soup, a huge salad and, of course, wine. Perfect!  THE LOURVE The next day we decided to get up early and spend the day at the Louvre.  Originally a royal palace, the Louvre became a public museum at the end of the 18th century. It is located in the 1st arrondissement, at the heart of Paris. There are about 35.000 objects on display, spread out over three wings of the former palace. The museum has a diverse collection ranging from the antiquity up to the mid 19th century. A large part of the collection consists of European paintings and sculptures. Other rooms contain Roman, Egyptian, Greek and Oriental art. There is also a section with 'Objects d'Art', where objects such as clocks, furniture, china and tapestries are displayed. Some of the most famous works of art in the museum are the Venus of Milo, the Nike of Samothrake, the Dying Slave by Michelangelo and of course Leonardo da Vinci's Mona Lisa, all of which lived up to my expectation.(I was enraptured!) By the time we arrived, got our tickets and figured out what we wanted to see we had 6 hours in total....barely enough to scratch the surface. We picked up our audio guides which proved to be quite a challenge to work out but we finally did and Nance even helped some Italian people with theirs! Words can't describe the awe and magnitude of the artists and their works. It is impossible to describe. The only thing I can say is that seeing works from the same artists spread all over Europe, your begin to get an understanding of the history as dates, times, monarchy's, wars and it all begins to come together in your mind and you get a real sense of what it was like. Sort of. It's so much to take in really. Exhausted, we finally left as I had made arrangements to see my cousin Emma who lives in St. Cloud, a suburb on the edge of the city. We had our directions and headed to the station. I had not seen Emma since she was about 12...she is now married with three beautiful children and working as a lawyer for her own music management company. I thought she and Robbie should connect :) in Paris. It was wonderful to see her and to meet her family. It was a short visit and she gave us a ride into the city where we had a quick bite before she had to rush off to make an appearance at a gig. There ended another busy day. CHATEAU  de VERSAILLES We had decided to go to Versailles and knew it was going to be an all-day affair so we left early. It took about an hour on the train and then we queued up for our tickets. Then we queued up to get in the gates and joined the throng of people to view what is probably one of the most grandiose examples of ostentatious royal living. Impossible to describe the decadence and sumptuous decor of this place. When the château was built, Versailles was a country village; today, however, it is a suburb of Paris, some 20 kilometres southwest of the French capital. The court of Versailles was the centre of political power in France from 1682, when Louis XIV moved from Paris, until the royal family was forced to return to the capital in October 1789 after the beginning of the French Revolution. Versailles is therefore famous not only as a building, but as a symbol of the system of absolute monarchy of the Ancien Régime. We could imagine the Louis's.....XIII, XIV, XV, XVI and Marie Antoinette partying it up in grand style. Mind blowing! The crowds were massive, as were the grounds! The vast number of apartments and salons were so luxurious and over the top, we were rendered speechless. Go to the website for photos and you will get an idea, though it can't compare with being there in person, of course. We decided to walk down the gardens past all the fountains and then another few kilometers to see Marie Antoinette's estate first, which turned out to be our favourite as it was very grand but on a smaller scale and the crowds were much less. After several hours, we had a much needed coffee and cake in the cafe and then headed to the train and back to Paris for dinner. The next couple of days were spent wandering through the little streets, touring the Sacre Coeur, Norte Dame, and generally stopping at cafes and parks along the way. It was heavenly and the best part was sharing it all with my pal. LAST DAY I have to say at this point, that contrary to common belief, we found Parisans to be incredibly nice, helpful and even interested in having conversations with us. We stumbled along using as much french as we could, which, I think they appreciated. One funny story.....and an example of one of my dumb blond moments.....We had just eaten dinner at a restaurant a ways from our apartment. Nancy went to use the loo and I went to pay for the meal and get directions to the nearest metro station from the man behind the bar (who, incidentally was rather striking). He very kindly wrote down the instructions on a napkin and at the bottom wrote a phone number. I thanked him and then asked if the number was in case I got lost and needed further directions. Our waiter was standing next to me smiling and said "no, he likes you and wants you to call him later". Duh. So embarrassing! On my last day, we decided to do the night bike tour. Well, actually, we wanted to do the afternoon one but spent too much time in Notre Dame and didn't give ourselves enough time to get there. We ended up finding a little bar across the street from the Tour Eiffel and drinking belgium beer instead! Anyway, it turned out to be the better choice I think. We met at the Tour Eiffel at 7:00pm, and walked from there to the bike shop to gear up. Our guide took us out into the busy city streets, giving us strict instructions on cycling in the Paris traffic. Fortunately there are cycle paths but at first the traffic is a little intimidating. Anyway, we cycled to, and made stops at Notre Dame, Academie Française, Tour Eiffel, Princess Diana's Flame - situated above the tunnel where Princess Diana was killed, and arrived at the back courtyard of The Louvre just in time to see the magnificent sunset! We then boarded a river boat on the Sienne and cruised for about an hour as the city began to light up. We saw the laser light show where the Eiffel Tower is fully lit up in blue lights. Indeed, the City of Light! Of course, we were drinking wine....but i didnt really need to tell you that, did I? Back on our bikes and back to the bike shop at close to 1:00am! We had met some nice people who invited us to go have a drink with them and when we arrived at the bar, it was so packed we decided to go back to the apartment as it was along way and I needed to get up around 6:00am to get my flight back to Liverpool. We ate some Brie and cheese and I put my weary head down for the last night in Paris.  It is my favourite big city so far.

Twice Brewed, Greencarts, Heddon-on-the-Wall, Wallsend

At some point Foxy and I bought a bottle of brandy with which we continually filled our little tiny sample whisky bottles that Richard gave us on the second day. Came in handy for the last few days of cold weather and rain. It's amazing how a little bit of brandy can warm you up! The day started out bright and sunny and I went for an early morning walk with Henry just to warm up. Back at camp and Gary arrived with sausage butty's (only half a cherry tomato on each one...seriously, you'd think there was war rationings!) Still not happy with the tea situation. At Greencarts, however we did have use of the kitchen. We ordered a curry for our dinner that night, it was nice to just shower and not have to go out to eat. I took the liberty of filling up my hot water bottle and my thermos there.

During our morning orientation, Gary gave us explicit instructions on taking a photo of the ancient sicamore tree at the famous "Sicamore Gap". He did another little demonstration...Richard was the tree, Foxy, the person being photographed and I was appointed the photographer, nearly tripping over a tent rope, much to Gary's disapproval! Point was taken and when we got there, we duly took our positions and shot the photos as instructed. Undeniably, the most beautiful and visible remains of the wall, this was my favourite day. There were a lot of ups and downs, steep rock stair climbs offering incredible views from the top depicting clearly the rugged landscape of the north and the vibrant green pastures south of the wall. It was clear to see why the Romans chose this place to mark their territory. By now it was raining pretty heavily and we made it to Housesteads just in time to avoid the downpour. We took refuge in the British Heritage museum there and then carried on after a short break.

We said goodbye to Gary and Jack that morning as the next two nights were to be spent in a bunkhouse in Heddon-on-the-Wall. In beds. With sheets. And towels. And breakfast. This was the longest day of walking - 37.7km according to Lindy - further than any day I did on the Camino! We made the great mistake of stopping far too long at Chesters (museum, cafe) and were way behind schedule by the time we got going. I was quite anxious as I knew it was a long way. We ended up separating and walked the last5 hours alone that day. Foxy, Lindy, and Richard walked together. When I arrived at the Robin Hood Pub at 5:30, knowing I still had two hours to go, I texted them and told them to take a cab as they were about an hour behind me. Lindy took a cab with two other guys staying at the same place but Foxy soldiered on with Richard, arriving around 8:30. Boy were we glad to get to that bunkhouse!

Another working farm, we met Paula, the farmers wife who also looked after everyone at the bunkhouse. She was SO great. Henry and I went for a short walk in the morning and introduced ourselves to the horses which was so fun. It was pouring and I was already wet. I made tea for everyone (there was a full kitchen) and took it around on a tray. Then breakfast and on our way for the last day of walking through Newcastle to Wallsend. The forecast was for relentless rain all day. Since most of us were staying another night, we didn't have to pack up and we braced ourselves for the rainy day.  It was a reasonable 15miles and a very uneventful end as there wasn't even a plaque! We passed the museum, which indicated the end and had to backtrack! There were no signs, no fanfare and oddly, no Gary popping up to welcome and congratulate us! 

After meeting Lindy, we went to a grocery store and bought the makings of a meal. We returned to the bunkhouse and I cooked a huge spag bol and Gen made a beautiful salad. Henry and his dad left us a bottle of champagne to celebrate (they stayed in Newcastle that night with family). We had a great meal and prepared ourselves for the inevitable goodbyes that would come the next day. In the morning, Paula asked me if I wanted to help her feed the lambs before I left! It was so much fun! Lambs are the sweetest creatures of all. I just loved all the farm animals and talked endlessly with anyone who would take the time to tell me about life on a farm. I think I might want to be a farmers wife someday. Hmmmm. Once again, I had to say goodbye to people who I had come to love. It's really hard as these experiences are so intense and you do get very close. Fortunately for me Foxy lives in Liverpool so I can prolong my goodbye with her and I know I will see Lindy and Gen in Canada. The rest....well, never say never I say. We may meet again someday. Such is the life of the traveller and I shall never forget any of them. It was a highlight of my travels.

Me and my "snuggle pack"

Favorite day

We did it!!

Celebrating!

Hadrian's Wall continued....

Day one was an easy walking day, about 14 miles and flat, with beautiful coastal views in the beginning. We spent the second night in Walton (pronounced "Watton"), another very cold night. My "snuggle pack" helped but the blanket kept sliding off my sleeping bag which was annoying. We stayed at a farm called Sandysike, a working farm and the home of Richard and Margaret who were "landed gentry". Gary had warned us that they were a bit eccentric but we found them to be perfectly sweet and lovely. Once we got organised, Richard came to the tent site which was situated on what was once the tennis courts, and took our drinks order. We all signed up to dine in their formal dining room, complete with family portraits from the 1600's! They cooked and served us graciously and it was one of the most enjoyable evenings of the week. For dessert there was a fruit crumble and you had a choice between cream or custard. I was the only person to ask for custard and it turned out that Margaret couldnt get it ready in time. I didnt mind, but ate my crumble naked. A few minutes later, she showed up with a small pitcher of custard and i felt bad so i ate it anyway. Thankfully, Henry helped me out!

During the evening I asked Richard if he had a cow that needed milking (it's always been something I'd like to try) and he said "well, yes, there's Emma isn't there?" he told me to meet him at 7:30am and he would take me to her. My friend Gen also had this wish so together we headed into the barn and each took a turn. Emma was very tolerant of our fumbling attemps - I kept thinking i was hurting her! What an experience! We even tasted the milk, which was warm and a little gamey...It was just so interesting to listen to Richard talk about the history of his family and he was quite intriged when I told him about our family farm house dating back to the 1500's. I was having such I great time I hated to leave, especially since there was a cow that was due to give birth at any moment!

We packed up and headed out for day 2. We were all beginning to bond and there was great cameraderie amongst the ten of us. There were four men walking together: two brothers, Bill and David and their sons Mark and Henry. They were from opposite ends of the country and decided to do this as a sort of family reunion. Lovely guys. Then there was Richard from the midlands, Janine from London, and the two Canadians I mentioned earlier. Lindy is a doctor and Gen is a teacher who has taken a year off to travel, a kindred spirit... The six of us sort of walked together and broke off into little groups but keeping an eye on each other. Janine was a keen historian and left us to look at the museums along the way. One of the best things we encountered were the "honesty boxes", little canteens left by the locals with bottles of water, juice, sodas, chocolate, granola bars and other snacks. Each item had a price and if you took one, you just left the money in a little box! I was intrigued by the concept..... and the trust.

The path is pretty well way marked with an acorn symbol and a yellow arrow. We got lost a couple of times however, which made the day longer but we had some adventures! Mostly, we just had such a lovely time together. The scenery in the English countryside is unparalleled. The Canadians kept exclaiming "it's just SO beautiful!", and it made Foxy appreciate her country even more to see it through the eyes of the traveller. For me, I just couldn't get enough of the sheep and lambs. I even came across one that had literally just given birth only minutes before. The mama was licking her baby and gently, but firmly pushing it with her nose to get it to stand up. I just stood there in awe. 

Day three dawned and we braced ourselves for what was meant to be the hardest day. We actually found that, although long, it was quite manageable until we bumped into Gary at Burdoswold where he was entertaining private clients from the USA. He seemed to have a different outfit every time we saw him, each one perfectly suited for the moment. This one was a hiking outfit with woollen jumper, short trousers with knee socks and a little beanie hat with a pompon! He looked auspiciously at his watch saying "you're going to have to get going if you want your dinner tonight!" He then kindly showed us a shortcut, in which we found ourselves lost in a matter of an hour and it took us just as long as it would have had we stuck to the original  path! It was raining, dark, and we ended up walking along the highway to get to the pub at Twice Brewed (yeah, that's the name of the place) just in time to order a meal. There we were, looking pretty daggy and draping our clothing over the radiators to try and dry it out before going back to the tents where we knew it wouldn't dry. Just then, Gary popped up again looking splendid in his country gentleman outfit. Foxy couldn't help herself and told him he looked gorgeous. He beamed and blushed. It turned out we joined a quiz night and didn't get to the campsite until it was well dark. We stumbled through the pitch dark to the campsite, laughing and trying to figure out where the loo was. We gave up, found a spot near the tent, then wriggled ourselves into our sleeping bags. Amen for the "snuggle pack"!

Favorite Quote: "I'm as warm as a little pie" -- Foxy

Gary and Jack making breakfast

Enjoying a bacon butty

All you have to do is follow the acorn

Mid- day pub stop

Oh the dear lambs!

Hadrian's Wall - part 1

I am very behind in my writing, but with the help of my friend Foxy (yes, she is as fabulous as her name suggests!) I have put together some highlights of the Hadrians Wall walk. Here goes... Foxy and I took the train from Liverpool Lime St to Carlisle and whilst on the train, got chatting with two lovely guys, one from Liverpool and one from Chorley who shared his sweets with us. She was surprised at my ease with talking to strangers....little did she know what my life has been like for the past 8 months!

After arriving in Carlisle we had just enough time to go shoe shopping and have a pint and a Crabbies before boarding a bus to Port Carlisle. We arrived in time to get to the campsite and meet the rest of the people on the self guided tour. Upon arriving at the site, along with three other people on the bus, we met our fearless leader, Gary, whom we came to revere and respect, despite his quirky, stern ways. He was accompanied by his lovely sidekick Jack, who became our most trusty keeper of the camp. Gary chastised those who dared to bring a wheely suitcase or had the audacity to wear jeans.....one cannot hike in jeans because when they get wet, they won't dry! We liked him immediately, but we knew from the start that this was serious business!

During our initial briefing, Gary informed us that it would be a bit chilly so I "rented" a fleece liner as I only had a two season sleeping bag and was worried I might be cold. Then we all headed to the pub around the corner for a meal. Foxy and I sat with two friends from Edmonton, Lindy and Genevieve (Gen) who were to became two of our dear companions over the next week. Back to camp to perform our ablutions and then into our tent for what was to become the coldest night I have ever spent. I don't think I slept a wink and found out the temperature was below freezing. I warned Foxy that if I didn't sort this out, I'd be climbing in bed with her to keep warm. All I could think was where the hell are my hot flushes when I really NEED them?! There were "snuggle packs" for rent as well - a wool blanket and a hot water bottle. I foolishly thought I wouldn't need them but believe me, I had them the next night!

 Breakfasts were included and were served at 8:30 sharp. We were quite excited to find out that each morning we would have a selection of cereals, juice, coffee or tea and a bacon and mushroom or sausage and tomato butty, surely a great way to start a 25+km day of walking. We were each given a fabric bag containing a metal plate, mug, and bowl which we were to use for the week. There were, of course, specific instructions as to the use of said articles. With all the flair that he could muster, Gary proudly produced these buttys and to his horror, Foxy put out her used bowl (she had had some cereal and milk and had not washed the bowl) to which he exclaimed that she must use the plate in her bag! When I asked for another cup of tea, he looked at me in shock and said "there's only so much water. We have to conserve". Bollocks! I thought to myself. This was to become a serious and contentious issue between Gary and I. I need my morning tea!

When Gary discovered that Foxy and I decided not to take the packed lunches (we both prefer to eat light whilst walking), he said "I have only two words for you: DAY THREE"!!! and then wouldn't tell us anything about the dreaded third day. We were left to surmise, knowing it couldn't be good. Port Carlisle is a few miles away from where we began the walk so Gary gave us a ride in the back of his Land Rover to Bowness on Solway, where we began. Each morning after breakfast he gave us a briefing, including historical facts and suggestions of timing in order for us to get to camp before dark. He would often set up a little scenario using us as props so he could illustrate his story....."Richard, stand here - you are a ditch, Mark, you are a vallum, Lindy, you are a mound, Janine, you are the wall"... and then he would proceed with his story. We did as we were told and it added an interesting element to the day and funnily enough, we remembered what he had said when we were walking.  TBC......

Carlisle

Crabbies

Camp

The beginning

Add caption

An Honesty Box

Barcelona

The best thing about Barcelona is the architecture and art history. The worst thing about Barcelona is the cost of being here. I have spent more money in 3 days in Barcelona than in the other 17 days I've been in Spain! The thing is, they are actually crooks about it. You order a simple meal and they bring bread and olives. As in many places in Spain, this is included in the meal. In Barcelona they have the cheek to add 7€ to your already inflated bill! Lunch one day was a small bocadilla at a sandwich shop, off the main tourist drag. The guy asked me if I wanted cervesa, cola cola or sangria. Naturally I chose sangria. When I got the bill, the sandwich was 8€ and the sangria (glass) was 12€!!!!! I was disgusted and told him so to which he just shrugged nonchalantly.  Anyway, moving on...... Barcelona is a fabulous city, just like everyone said. I booked myself a very small and simple room just off Las Ramblas and it was perfect for what I needed. I met a woman from Denmark on the bus and she ended up staying there as well. The first thing I wanted to do was see the Sagrada Familia and it was even more spectacular than I had imagined it to be. It stands magestically, its 4 spires reaching high to the heavens. I managed to figure out the metro and get myself across town to the Basillica and found that there was a queue of more than an hour. I wavered for a moment, then decided I would do it. Most of the wait was sunny and the wait was so worth it in the end. I stood and stared in awe at the entrance, the Passion facade. In contrast to the highly decorated Nativity Façade, the Passion Façade is austere, plain and simple, with ample bare stone, and is carved with harsh straight lines to resemble a skeleton if it were reduced to only bone. Dedicated to the Passion of Christ, the suffering of Jesus during his crucifixion, the façade was intended to portray the sins of man, provoking a dramatic effect. Gaudí intended for this façade to strike fear into the onlooker. He wanted to "break" arcs and "cut" columns, and to use the effect of chiaroscuro (dark angular shadows contrasted by harsh rigid light) to further show the severity and brutality of Christ's sacrifice, facing the setting sun, indicative and symbolic of the death of Christ. The columns of the interior are a unique Gaudí design, besides branching to support their load, their ever-changing surfaces are the result of the intersection of various geometric forms. The simplest example is that of a square base evolving into an octagon as the column rises, then a sixteen-sided form, and eventually to a circle. Essentially none of the interior surfaces are flat; the ornamentation is comprehensive and rich, consisting in large part of abstract shapes which combine smooth curves and jagged points. Gaudi designed the columns to resemble trees and branches and it really felt as if I was walking into a forest. Constructed between 1894 and 1930, the Nativity façade was the first façade to be completed. Dedicated to the birth of Jesus, it is decorated with scenes reminiscent of elements of life. Characteristic of Gaudí's naturalistic style, the sculptures are ornately arranged and decorated with scenes and images from nature, each a symbol in their own manner. For instance, the three porticos are separated by two large columns, and at the base of each lies a turtle or a tortoise (one to represent the land and the other the sea; each are symbols of time as something set in stone and unchangeable). In contrast to the figures of turtles and their symbolism, two chameleons can be found at either side of the façade, and are symbolic of change. The façade faces the rising sun to the northeast, a symbol for the birth of Christ. It is divided into three porticos, each of which represents a theological virtue (Hope, Faith and Charity). The Tree of Life rises above the door of Jesus in the portico of Charity.  On the subject of the extremely long construction period, Gaudí is said to have remarked, "My client is not in a hurry." When Gaudí died in 1926, the basilica was between 15 and 25 percent complete. The halfway point was marked in 2010, and the church was consecrated by Pope Benedict and is now used for religious service. I went for a bike tour of the city and the day, fortunately was sunny and warm. We started out at Plaza St Jaume where we collected our bikes and met our guides. It was a very good experience as I got to see a lot of the city stopping at various architectural points along the way and ending up at the beach for a drink. A funny thing happened. About three hours into the ride, one of the people in the group rode up beside me and said she had heard I was from BC. She asked me where I was from and, since nobody ever knows where Nelson is, I always say in a small town east of Vancouver. It turns out, she is from Nelson too and I actually know her husband! She was travelling with friends and I did not see her again but it was an interesting encounter. Night bus to Madrid and flight back to Liverpool. I had left a small case at the office of the English immersion program and when I went to pick it up, the office was closed because of a bank holiday and I could not get in. My case is still in Madrid!

Burgos

It has basically rained continuously from Belorado to Burgos and I am getting a little tired of being wet. Despite the rain I have really enjoyed walking this bit. It is so green and lush, the promise of great things to come...wine! In Villafranca Montes de Oca, I made the grave mistake of washing my clothes. There was no heat and they didn't dry so I was forced to walk in shorter trousers, and it was cold. By the time I got to Atapuerca where I stayed that night, I was sopping wet, carrying my other damp clothes. To my delight it was a very nice albergue complete with washer and dryer! I quickly put everything into the dryer and wore the only dry thing I had - shorts and a fleece. At the albergue I decided to cook for myself as there was a kitchen so I went off to the supermercado where I met a lovely Korean couple in their 60's from Vancouver who I asked to join me which they seemed happy to do. I told them I would cook and all they had to do was keep me company with a bottle of wine. We had such a nice time and ended up finally saying goodbye in Burgos. We will keep in touch. I was so impressed with their determination to get to Santiago despite the gloomy weather. I also met a woman named Steen from Copenhagen who was fed up with the weather and decided to go home after walking in the rain all day to Burgos. She is an optomotrist and did not want to waste her precious holidays by walking in rain every day. Fair enough. The great thing about living in Europe is that it is easy to get back to Spain and the camino will always be here. We hung out that evening and had a really nice time before she left at 4:00 am for her bus to Madrid. So, now on the bus and on my way to Barcelona for a few days to see the sights there. Everyone I've spoken to has said that it is one of the best cities to visit so I am excited. I have a room booked and hope to do a bicycle tour of the city and see the Sagrada Familia. A wander through La Rambles and many a cafe con leche in the sunshine would make me very happy

Casteldelgado....again

I went into the hotel to use the loo before getting on my way. When I came out, there was Jude and Kate, two women from Australia whom I had met two days before. We were so happy to see each other! I sat down with them and before we realised, three French men at the table next to us ordered us each a beer. Now I knew I wouldn't be walking too far! After a little snack, we finally headed out, hoping to get past Belorado. We were met with incredible high winds, almost enough to take us up in the air! It was very difficult walking and I forged on ahead of them as it was hard going and we had to go our own pace. By the time I got to Belorado, it was raining heavily. I decided to stay there. I made my way through the town to an albergue I had stayed at last year called Cuatro Cantones and remembered to be a really nice one. When I went in, the man who runs it came to the door and recognised me! He gave me a big hug and took me inside offering me a cup of tea! He wanted to know why I was back, and we had a really nice reunion. His name is Fernando and he welcomed me warmly. Kate and Jude showed up a bit later and we all settled in. We were all in a room together with a woman named Ina, a dentist from Germany and a sweet guy from Belgium named Fred.  I asked Fernando if there was evening Mass and he said it was at 8:00 but dinner was at 7:30. I said I would go to Mass and skip dinner as I could find something in the supermercado later. He said nonsense, he would keep my dinner for me. Off I went to church only to find that they decided to have mass that day at 7:00 instead of 8:00. This is typical Spain - change it but don't bother to let anyone know. Dinner was delicious, wine was great, company was the best. Ina and I walked together the next day, something I rarely do, but we had the same pace and had a great visit. She decided to take the bus to Burgos and I wanted to keep walking so stayed in Villafranca Montes de Oca. In fact, many people, including Jude and Kate took the bus that day from Belorado to Burgos because the weather forecast was for rain, rain, and more rain. I came here to walk, and walk I will! Besides, I need to prepare myself for walking Hadrians Wall next week and my guess is, it will likely rain there too