I think I am getting used to things in India, though some things I doubt I ever will. The smell is at times overwhelming, a choking, gagging sensation that makes me breathe through my mouth most of the time. The constant noise is incredible and the heat is stifling. Horns honking from every vehicle, big or small, people screeching at each other in their high pitched voices, shopkeepers shouting at you for attention. At night, thank goodness, it is blissfully quiet and we have had some lovely evenings sitting on top of rooftop restaurants eating amazing food and getting to know one another. It is very hot - I'm thinking high 30's, and I am told that it is still quite cool by Indian standards...this area can get up to 50 degrees in the summer! As we head further south, the heat will get worse. Most of us have bought some of the baggy trousers to wear because you need to cover up your legs in public (out of respect), and also because it helps keep the sun and any lurking mosquito from getting at you. On this style of group travel we travel as the locals do using public transport and staying in 1-2 star hotels which are comfortable, clean and tend to be in the centre of the town, close to all the action. Our guide gives us an orientation and walking tour of each new place, showing us the main attractions and suggesting good, but affordable places to eat. He then leaves us on our own to do as we wish either with group members or on our own. He also helps us arrange extra things we might like to do in the area.
India is at once a stifling, dirty, vile, fantastic, colourful, richly vibrant and deeply unsettling place. You are faced at one moment with rich culture, festivals, forts, palaces, architecture, temples, beaches, music and then thrust suddenly into the deepest poverty and human filth. It is indeed a place that begins to take hold of you in a way you never expected, in a way that most certainly will change who you are and what you think about the world. I embrace the challenge and the opportunity to once again, permit myself a departure from what is comfortable and safe. My world continues to broaden.
Wednesday, 21 March 2012
Saturday, 17 March 2012
Namaste
I'm sitting on the rooftop of my Havali in Jodhpur, one of Rajasthan's largest cities, a busy, bustling city with the famous and colossal Mehrangarh Fort which dominates the city's skyline. It is very hot - too hot for me to go out in the afternoon so I will attempt to update my blog.
My flight from Nairobi to Dehli was uneventful, though long, and I arrived in Dehli in the morning. The airport was surprisingly easy to navigate and I arranged for a prepaid taxi near the exit. I love these taxi kiosks as there is no haggling, you just book it and they give you a number and when you go outside to the mayhem, you don't feel so overwhelmed. I got to my hotel just in time to meet my roommate, Debra from Australia, and then met the rest of the group. This type of tour I'm on is a basic tour where you have a guide who arranges all the local travel - busses, trains, subway etc. and you get lots of free time to explore on your own. Our guides name is Mayank and he is absolutely lovely. There are twelve of us - 8 young women under 30, two single men over 50, and then me and Debra, roughly the same age. It's an interesting dynamic as I find myself, once again, more comfortable with the young people. Not sure why, but they are all lovely and good fun.
The next day we headed out for a walking tour of Old Dehli. I have to say, after the peaceful time in the Serengeti, I was finding it all a bit too much. Dehli is a filthly, noisy, smelly, chaotic place teeming with people and heat. I was overwhelmed with it all and not sure if I was going to like it here. We made our way by bus to the centre of the city amidst all this utter confusion. India's capital is an exciting, busy, and often chaotic city but it's also one of the most interesting in the world with historical sites from different eras, museums and galleries, shops and endless bazaars! We walked through the famous Chandni Chowk where we tasted masala chai and street snacks made with peanuts, sesame seeds and honey. Its hard to describe the utter filth - gutters streaming with garbage and sewage, people releiving themselves wherever they want and spitting the gross chewing tobacco (pan) onto the street. Yuck! Cows and oxen roam freely amidst the rickshaws, tuk-tuks and motorcycles with surprising calmness and ease. We then set off on the city's modern metro system, and then India's famed public transport, tuk-tuks through chaotic streets. We visited to the Jama Masjid, Delhi's oldest mosque and one of its most impressive buildings, then to the Sheeshganj Gurudwara (Sikh Temple) to learn about the Sikh religion. I have a whole new appreciation for the Sikh religion as they serve free food every day to all the devotees and anyone, rich or poor, without any distinction of caste, creed,or distinction will be served.
Jama Masjid, Delhi's oldest mosque and one of its most impressive buildings, is the largest mosque in India. The Jama Masjid stands across the road in front of the Red Fort. Built between 1644 and 1658, Jama Masjid is one of the last architectural works of the Mughal emperor Shah Jahan. The spacious courtyard of the Jama Masjid holds thousands of faithful. Jama Masjid is located on a mound in the heart of the old city and projects beautifully into the Old-Delhi skyline. Jama Masjid Mosque was built in red sandstone and marble by more than 5000 artisans. Originally called the Masjid-i-Jahan-Numa, or "mosque commanding view of the world", the Jama Masjid stands at the center of the erstwhile capital city of the Mughals, Shahjahanbad.
My flight from Nairobi to Dehli was uneventful, though long, and I arrived in Dehli in the morning. The airport was surprisingly easy to navigate and I arranged for a prepaid taxi near the exit. I love these taxi kiosks as there is no haggling, you just book it and they give you a number and when you go outside to the mayhem, you don't feel so overwhelmed. I got to my hotel just in time to meet my roommate, Debra from Australia, and then met the rest of the group. This type of tour I'm on is a basic tour where you have a guide who arranges all the local travel - busses, trains, subway etc. and you get lots of free time to explore on your own. Our guides name is Mayank and he is absolutely lovely. There are twelve of us - 8 young women under 30, two single men over 50, and then me and Debra, roughly the same age. It's an interesting dynamic as I find myself, once again, more comfortable with the young people. Not sure why, but they are all lovely and good fun.
The next day we headed out for a walking tour of Old Dehli. I have to say, after the peaceful time in the Serengeti, I was finding it all a bit too much. Dehli is a filthly, noisy, smelly, chaotic place teeming with people and heat. I was overwhelmed with it all and not sure if I was going to like it here. We made our way by bus to the centre of the city amidst all this utter confusion. India's capital is an exciting, busy, and often chaotic city but it's also one of the most interesting in the world with historical sites from different eras, museums and galleries, shops and endless bazaars! We walked through the famous Chandni Chowk where we tasted masala chai and street snacks made with peanuts, sesame seeds and honey. Its hard to describe the utter filth - gutters streaming with garbage and sewage, people releiving themselves wherever they want and spitting the gross chewing tobacco (pan) onto the street. Yuck! Cows and oxen roam freely amidst the rickshaws, tuk-tuks and motorcycles with surprising calmness and ease. We then set off on the city's modern metro system, and then India's famed public transport, tuk-tuks through chaotic streets. We visited to the Jama Masjid, Delhi's oldest mosque and one of its most impressive buildings, then to the Sheeshganj Gurudwara (Sikh Temple) to learn about the Sikh religion. I have a whole new appreciation for the Sikh religion as they serve free food every day to all the devotees and anyone, rich or poor, without any distinction of caste, creed,or distinction will be served.
Jama Masjid, Delhi's oldest mosque and one of its most impressive buildings, is the largest mosque in India. The Jama Masjid stands across the road in front of the Red Fort. Built between 1644 and 1658, Jama Masjid is one of the last architectural works of the Mughal emperor Shah Jahan. The spacious courtyard of the Jama Masjid holds thousands of faithful. Jama Masjid is located on a mound in the heart of the old city and projects beautifully into the Old-Delhi skyline. Jama Masjid Mosque was built in red sandstone and marble by more than 5000 artisans. Originally called the Masjid-i-Jahan-Numa, or "mosque commanding view of the world", the Jama Masjid stands at the center of the erstwhile capital city of the Mughals, Shahjahanbad.
Thursday, 15 March 2012
Mto Wa Mbu
Our last night of camping and we stop at Mto Wa Mbu, a small village community, offering an excellent opportunity to get a close-up look at a small African town away from the main tourist trail. Our campsite is in Meserani on the outskirts of Arusha, the place where 5 of our group will leave us to trek Mt Killimangero. I was wishing I had considered doing this as well - who knows if I'll ever get another opportunity.
Our last night together and a special meal of roast goat (on a spit) and then to one of the best bars I've ever been to. The walls and ceilings are covered with t-shirts left from visitors from all over the world. This rustic pub sits beside the snake zoo where we viewed boa constrictors, pythons and crocs.
For the last time, we pack up our tents and head back to Nairobi, the end of an amazing experience and one I shall never forget. A group of very special people including our local guides made it very hard to say goodbye. Another 19 people to add to the long list of people I have met on my travels so far.
*****
I'm sitting on the plane, on my way to India, feeling like I'm not ready to leave this extraordinary place. I meet people every day who tell me I'm so brave to do all this travelling, but really, I just think I'm so very blessed.
So, the next adventure is about to begin. As each month goes by, I feel myself changing and growing in a way that I know would never experience by living my life as it was. This time is a gift beyond measure and not a minute goes by that I don't recognise how truly blessed I am.
I am thankful. I am fortunate. I am happy.
The gifts of the Camino continue to be bestowed upon me.
Our last night together and a special meal of roast goat (on a spit) and then to one of the best bars I've ever been to. The walls and ceilings are covered with t-shirts left from visitors from all over the world. This rustic pub sits beside the snake zoo where we viewed boa constrictors, pythons and crocs.
For the last time, we pack up our tents and head back to Nairobi, the end of an amazing experience and one I shall never forget. A group of very special people including our local guides made it very hard to say goodbye. Another 19 people to add to the long list of people I have met on my travels so far.
*****
I'm sitting on the plane, on my way to India, feeling like I'm not ready to leave this extraordinary place. I meet people every day who tell me I'm so brave to do all this travelling, but really, I just think I'm so very blessed.
So, the next adventure is about to begin. As each month goes by, I feel myself changing and growing in a way that I know would never experience by living my life as it was. This time is a gift beyond measure and not a minute goes by that I don't recognise how truly blessed I am.
I am thankful. I am fortunate. I am happy.
The gifts of the Camino continue to be bestowed upon me.
Wednesday, 14 March 2012
Ngorongoro Crater
Another game drive out of the park as we continue our journey to the Ngorongoro crater, approx 80 kms out. I was totally unprepared for the profound beauty of the view of the crater and for the second time on my travels was moved to tears by what I was seeing. This is indeed God's work and i was truly awed. I knew this was going to be one of those once-in-a-lifetime experiences that I will never forget. It is fiercely protected and they only let so many vehicles in the park a day. You are given a time that you must return and if you don't you are heavily fined.
Our campsite on the rim of the crater overlooks jagged volcanic peaks and rolling grasslands thousands of feet below. With cold showers and drop toilets, this is likely one of the most spectacular campsites with such a view. It was quite cold but we built a fire and stayed up late looking at the stars and the magnificent full moon - an added bonus!
After an early breakfast, we descended to the crater floor in 4x4 jeeps, a steep 600m below the rim. A huge, perfectly intact crater, Ngorongoro Crater is home to approximately 30,000 animals including the endangered black rhino. We were told there was only a 50% chance of seeing one of which there are only 28 in the whole of the crater. This is the only place they live and the park staff are committed to increasing the herd. We were lucky enough to see this rare sight as we viewed a group of 5 off in the distance, completing our viewing of the Big Five! Another highlight was the leopard, sleeping in the tree, it's limbs hanging down, completely relaxed. It was incredible to see the thousands of pink flamingoes that grace the edge of the lake feeding off the algae that turns them the vibrant pink colour. Again, elephants, lions, impalas, zebras and hippos along with the hyenas and warthogs who frequently cross the road in front of us. Towards the end of the drive, we were able to witness the migration of the wilder beasts, approximately 1.25 million of them, a magnificent sight indeed. I was so impressed with the driver's knowledge and the complete regard for the life of the animals. He told us that at times, whilst the vehicle is parked, a lion will come and lie down in the shade of the vehicle or even jump onto the hood, and if this happens, they do not move the car until the lion decides to move on. This can take hours, and it is this profound regard for the animals that made me so thankful for their diligence to keep the animals safe in their natural habitat.
What strikes me as so incredibly amazing is that each and every living thing, plant, insect, or mammal depends on each other to create this wondrous and perfect place on earth. Never have I been so in awe, so enraptured by the very existence of these marvellous creatures.
Our campsite on the rim of the crater overlooks jagged volcanic peaks and rolling grasslands thousands of feet below. With cold showers and drop toilets, this is likely one of the most spectacular campsites with such a view. It was quite cold but we built a fire and stayed up late looking at the stars and the magnificent full moon - an added bonus!
After an early breakfast, we descended to the crater floor in 4x4 jeeps, a steep 600m below the rim. A huge, perfectly intact crater, Ngorongoro Crater is home to approximately 30,000 animals including the endangered black rhino. We were told there was only a 50% chance of seeing one of which there are only 28 in the whole of the crater. This is the only place they live and the park staff are committed to increasing the herd. We were lucky enough to see this rare sight as we viewed a group of 5 off in the distance, completing our viewing of the Big Five! Another highlight was the leopard, sleeping in the tree, it's limbs hanging down, completely relaxed. It was incredible to see the thousands of pink flamingoes that grace the edge of the lake feeding off the algae that turns them the vibrant pink colour. Again, elephants, lions, impalas, zebras and hippos along with the hyenas and warthogs who frequently cross the road in front of us. Towards the end of the drive, we were able to witness the migration of the wilder beasts, approximately 1.25 million of them, a magnificent sight indeed. I was so impressed with the driver's knowledge and the complete regard for the life of the animals. He told us that at times, whilst the vehicle is parked, a lion will come and lie down in the shade of the vehicle or even jump onto the hood, and if this happens, they do not move the car until the lion decides to move on. This can take hours, and it is this profound regard for the animals that made me so thankful for their diligence to keep the animals safe in their natural habitat.
What strikes me as so incredibly amazing is that each and every living thing, plant, insect, or mammal depends on each other to create this wondrous and perfect place on earth. Never have I been so in awe, so enraptured by the very existence of these marvellous creatures.
Tuesday, 13 March 2012
Serengeti National Park, Tanzania
About 100km drive and we entered the Sarengeti National Park, 14,763 square kilometers in size. Over the next 120 km we began our game drive and were immediately treated to herds of wilderbeast, zebras, and impalas, grazing and barely looking up to notice us. Everyone got really excited when the first two giraffes appeared and then, only minutes later, a herd of elephants. It is indescribable to witness these majestic beasts in their natural habitat. The wide open plains of the Serengeti, green now because of the recent rain is home to thousands of hoofed animals and fierce predators, the quintessential image of Africa. Flat and rolling with long grasses and dotted with acacia trees, the plains get their name from the Massai word "Siringitu" which means "the place where the land moves on forever". There were so many amazing moments as we witnessed the solitude and reverence of the animals in the park over the next two days. It is not a given that you will see The Big Five on one trip but we have been abundantly blessed to see them all. Elephants, lions, leopards, buffalo and even the elusive leopard. So many more including giraffes, herds of wilderbeasts, warthogs, impalas, ostriches, gnus, dikdiks, hyenas, to name a few.
And the birds alone! With over 500 species in the Serengeti we were able to spot quite a few. My favourite was the red-billed oxpecker, magnificent in its irridescent bright shiny blue/green colours and closely related to the starling . Our guides were equipped with books and were themselves incredibly knowledgeable about a lot of the animals and birds. The only negative was that we got stuck in the mud and it took two hours to dig ourselves out, eventually being rescued by a truck with a pully that hauled while the rest of us pushed. It was actually kind of fun and just added to the "real life experience".
On our second day in the Serengeti, we woke up very early in order to be out at dawn when the animals are at their most active. Once again, we found ourselves stuck in the mud and another two hours to dig and push and finally free ourselves from the thick, wet mud. Back to the campsite for brunch and then relaxing, doing laundry by hand and hanging it in the sun to dry. We headed out again at dusk and were treated to the sight of the many animals that live there. I think my favourite is the elephants as they are just so majestic. It is mesmerising watching the animals. They seem oblivious to us as they regard the vehicles as part of the environment and do not feel the least bit frightened or spooked. At times they came right up to the vehicle, which was truly amazing. At one point there was a male elephant right beside the truck and he looked at us and then raised his trunk and roared! I also love the giraffes. Up close you can see their long eyelashes as they graze at the top branches of the thorny acacia trees. It amazes me how they can twist their long tongues around the thorny branch somehow managing to take the tiny leaves without getting pierced by the long thorns. I learned that they have a kind of natural defence in their tongues that prevent them from ingesting the poison from the thorns. Nature is so amazing!
Our campsite is right in the serengeti itself and as we sat around the campfire, we could hear the nocturnal sounds of the animals and were visited by a hyena, lurking nearby in the shadows, not menacing, but definitely hoping for something to scavenge.
There are many Massai villages near the Serengeti, and, while it is a fascinating culture, these villages now exist for the purpose of tourism and the Massai try to sell souvenirs, a disappointing aspect of the experience. I have begun to realise that as the world grows smaller, it is increasingly difficult to experience the remoteness and authenticity of these ancient and remote cultures. There are still some authentic Massai who live the true life of their culture, herding their animals, living on fresh blood and milk as their only food.
And the birds alone! With over 500 species in the Serengeti we were able to spot quite a few. My favourite was the red-billed oxpecker, magnificent in its irridescent bright shiny blue/green colours and closely related to the starling . Our guides were equipped with books and were themselves incredibly knowledgeable about a lot of the animals and birds. The only negative was that we got stuck in the mud and it took two hours to dig ourselves out, eventually being rescued by a truck with a pully that hauled while the rest of us pushed. It was actually kind of fun and just added to the "real life experience".
On our second day in the Serengeti, we woke up very early in order to be out at dawn when the animals are at their most active. Once again, we found ourselves stuck in the mud and another two hours to dig and push and finally free ourselves from the thick, wet mud. Back to the campsite for brunch and then relaxing, doing laundry by hand and hanging it in the sun to dry. We headed out again at dusk and were treated to the sight of the many animals that live there. I think my favourite is the elephants as they are just so majestic. It is mesmerising watching the animals. They seem oblivious to us as they regard the vehicles as part of the environment and do not feel the least bit frightened or spooked. At times they came right up to the vehicle, which was truly amazing. At one point there was a male elephant right beside the truck and he looked at us and then raised his trunk and roared! I also love the giraffes. Up close you can see their long eyelashes as they graze at the top branches of the thorny acacia trees. It amazes me how they can twist their long tongues around the thorny branch somehow managing to take the tiny leaves without getting pierced by the long thorns. I learned that they have a kind of natural defence in their tongues that prevent them from ingesting the poison from the thorns. Nature is so amazing!
Our campsite is right in the serengeti itself and as we sat around the campfire, we could hear the nocturnal sounds of the animals and were visited by a hyena, lurking nearby in the shadows, not menacing, but definitely hoping for something to scavenge.
There are many Massai villages near the Serengeti, and, while it is a fascinating culture, these villages now exist for the purpose of tourism and the Massai try to sell souvenirs, a disappointing aspect of the experience. I have begun to realise that as the world grows smaller, it is increasingly difficult to experience the remoteness and authenticity of these ancient and remote cultures. There are still some authentic Massai who live the true life of their culture, herding their animals, living on fresh blood and milk as their only food.
Lake Victoria
Travelling towards the Tanzania border and our next stop, lake Victoria, Africa's biggest lake and the world's biggest tropical lake. It's shores are shared by Kenya, Tanzania, and Uganda. The nearest town is Musoma and we stopped there for a quick visit to the market and bank machine. We camped on the shores of the lake on the outskirts of Musoma, one of the least visited campgrounds. It was quiet, peaceful and very beautiful. I felt at home on the lake, though you are not allowed to swim there. Watching the sunset was a real gift. Our camp cook Sue, is an amazing cook and tonight made traditional Kenyan food which is a beef stew, chiapatas and a white maize thing which is like a lump of dough...not very appetising on its own but seems to go with the meal. The Kenyans were delighted as it is one of the favourite foods. Up very early to begin our Serengeti game drive.
Sunday, 11 March 2012
Camping, not "glam ping"
My first experience with bush camping has been great. There is a style of travel in Africa called overland exploring. It's inexpensive and requires that you help out with the basic cooking, cleaning and maintenance. When we get to the camp site, everyone gets out of the truck, grabs their tent and sets it up. Then you get your stuff out of your locker, set it up in your tent - sleeping mat and bedding, clothing etc. it's best to do this when it's light as it is often remote and there is little light once it goes dark. A headlamp is absolutely essential, as are extra batteries. There is a rota of duties and you are part of a team of four. Duties range from food prep, cleaning out the truck, dishes, and pots and pans, and "flapping", a technique for drying dishes in the most sanitary way, this is actually quite brilliant. There are three basins, one to do the initial rinse, the next with hot soapy water, then a first rinse with a little Dettol in it, and the last simply a hot rinse. Everyone takes a dish in each hand and flaps around until they are dry. The same goes for washing hands. One basin with soap and a scrub brush, one rinse with dettol and the last one a clear rinse. No one got sick in the whole time we were away. It's amazing to me how quickly we became efficient at set-up and take-down each day. There is lots of laughter and everyone is willing to help out with anything needing doing.
the truck was a beast but we got used to it and spent many hours going over bumpy, dusty roads. Getting stuck in the mud was quite an adventure, but again, teamwork prevailed and we survived.
the truck was a beast but we got used to it and spent many hours going over bumpy, dusty roads. Getting stuck in the mud was quite an adventure, but again, teamwork prevailed and we survived.
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