Ngorongoro Crater

Another game drive out of the park as we continue our journey to the Ngorongoro crater, approx 80 kms out.  I was totally unprepared for the profound beauty of the view of the crater and for the second time on my travels was moved to tears by what I was seeing. This is indeed God's  work and i was truly awed. I knew this was going to be one of those once-in-a-lifetime experiences that I will never forget. It is fiercely protected and they only let so many vehicles in the park a day. You are given a time that you must return and if you don't you are heavily fined. 
Our campsite on the rim of the crater overlooks jagged volcanic peaks and rolling grasslands thousands of feet below. With cold showers and drop toilets, this is likely one of the most spectacular campsites with such a view. It was quite cold but we built a fire and stayed up late looking at the stars and the magnificent full moon - an added bonus!
After an early breakfast, we descended to the crater floor in 4x4 jeeps, a steep 600m below the rim. A huge, perfectly intact crater, Ngorongoro Crater is home to approximately 30,000 animals including the endangered black rhino. We were told there was only a 50% chance of seeing one of which there are only 28 in the whole of the crater. This is the only place they live and the park staff are committed to increasing the herd. We were lucky enough to see this rare sight as we viewed a group of 5 off in the distance,  completing our viewing of the Big Five! Another highlight was the leopard, sleeping in the tree, it's limbs hanging down, completely relaxed. It was incredible to see the thousands of pink flamingoes that grace the edge of the lake feeding off the algae that turns them the vibrant pink colour. Again, elephants, lions, impalas, zebras and hippos along with the hyenas and warthogs who frequently cross the road in front of us. Towards the end of the drive, we were able to witness the migration of the wilder beasts, approximately 1.25 million of them, a magnificent sight indeed. I was so impressed with the driver's knowledge and the complete regard for the life of the animals. He told us that at times, whilst the vehicle is parked, a lion will come and lie down in the shade of the vehicle or even jump onto the hood, and if this happens, they do not move the car until the lion decides to move on. This can take hours, and it is this profound regard for the animals that made me so thankful for their diligence to keep the animals safe in their natural habitat.

What strikes me as so incredibly amazing is that each and every living thing, plant, insect, or mammal depends on each other to create this wondrous and perfect place on earth. Never have I been so in awe, so enraptured by the very existence of these marvellous creatures.

Serengeti National Park, Tanzania

About 100km drive and we entered the Sarengeti National Park, 14,763 square kilometers in size. Over the next 120 km we began our game drive and were immediately treated to herds of wilderbeast, zebras, and impalas, grazing and barely looking up to notice us. Everyone got really excited when the first two giraffes appeared and then, only minutes later, a herd of elephants. It is indescribable to witness these majestic beasts in their natural habitat. The wide open plains of the Serengeti, green now because of the recent rain is home to thousands of hoofed animals and fierce predators, the quintessential image of Africa. Flat and rolling with long grasses and dotted with acacia trees, the plains get their name from the Massai word "Siringitu" which means "the place where the land moves on forever". There were so many amazing moments as we witnessed the solitude and reverence of the animals in the park over the next two days. It is not a given that you will see The Big Five on one trip but we have been abundantly blessed to see them all. Elephants, lions, leopards, buffalo and even the elusive leopard. So many more including giraffes, herds of wilderbeasts, warthogs, impalas, ostriches, gnus, dikdiks, hyenas, to name a few.
And the birds alone! With over 500 species in the Serengeti we were able to spot quite a few. My favourite was the red-billed oxpecker, magnificent in its irridescent bright shiny blue/green colours and closely related to the starling . Our guides were equipped with books and were themselves incredibly knowledgeable about a lot of the animals and birds. The only negative was that we got stuck in the mud and it took two hours to dig ourselves out, eventually being rescued by a truck with a pully that hauled while the rest of us pushed. It was actually kind of fun and just added to the "real life experience".

On our second day in the Serengeti, we woke up very early in order to be out at dawn when the animals are at their most active. Once again, we found ourselves stuck in the mud and another two hours to dig and push and finally free ourselves from the thick, wet mud. Back to the campsite for brunch and then relaxing, doing laundry by hand and hanging it in the sun to dry. We headed out again at dusk and were treated to the sight of the many animals that live there. I think my favourite is the elephants as they are just so majestic. It is mesmerising watching the animals. They seem oblivious to us as they regard the vehicles as part of the environment and do not feel the least bit frightened or spooked. At times they came right up to the vehicle, which was truly amazing. At one point there was a male elephant right beside the truck and he looked at us and then raised his trunk and roared! I also love the giraffes. Up close you can see their long eyelashes as  they graze at the top branches of the thorny acacia trees. It amazes me how they can twist their long tongues around the thorny branch somehow managing to take the tiny leaves without getting pierced by the long thorns. I learned that they have a kind of natural defence in their tongues that prevent them from ingesting the poison from the thorns. Nature is so amazing!
Our campsite is right in the serengeti itself and as we sat around the campfire, we could hear the nocturnal sounds of the animals and were visited by a hyena, lurking nearby in the shadows, not menacing, but definitely hoping for something to scavenge.
There are many Massai villages near the Serengeti, and, while it is a fascinating culture, these villages now exist for the purpose of tourism and the Massai try to sell souvenirs, a disappointing aspect of the experience. I have begun to realise that as the world grows smaller, it is increasingly difficult to experience the remoteness and authenticity of these ancient and remote cultures. There are still some authentic Massai who live the true life of their culture, herding their animals, living on fresh blood and milk as their only food.

Lake Victoria

Travelling towards the Tanzania border and our next stop, lake Victoria, Africa's biggest lake and the world's biggest tropical lake. It's shores are shared by Kenya, Tanzania, and Uganda. The nearest town is Musoma and we stopped there for a quick visit to the market and bank machine. We camped on the shores of the lake on the outskirts of Musoma, one of the least visited campgrounds. It was quiet, peaceful and very beautiful. I felt at home on the lake, though you are not allowed to swim there. Watching the sunset was a real gift. Our camp cook Sue, is an amazing cook and tonight made traditional Kenyan food which is a beef stew, chiapatas and a white maize thing which is like a lump of dough...not very appetising on its own but seems to go with the meal. The Kenyans were delighted as it is one of the favourite foods. Up very early to begin our Serengeti game drive.

Camping, not "glam ping"

My first experience with bush camping has been great. There is a style of travel in Africa called overland exploring. It's inexpensive and requires that you help out with the basic cooking, cleaning and maintenance. When we get to the camp site, everyone gets out of the truck, grabs their tent and sets it up. Then you get your stuff out of your locker, set it up in your tent - sleeping mat and bedding, clothing etc. it's best to do this when it's light as it is often remote and there is little light once it goes dark. A headlamp is absolutely essential, as are extra batteries. There is a rota of duties and you are part of a team of four. Duties range from food prep, cleaning out the truck, dishes, and pots and pans, and "flapping", a technique for drying dishes in the most sanitary way, this is actually quite brilliant. There are three basins, one to do the initial rinse, the next with hot soapy water, then a first rinse with a little Dettol in it, and the last simply a hot rinse. Everyone takes a dish in each hand and flaps around until they are dry. The same goes for washing hands. One basin with soap and a scrub brush, one rinse with dettol and the last one a clear rinse. No one got sick in the whole time we were away. It's amazing to me how quickly we became efficient at set-up and take-down each day. There is lots of laughter and everyone is willing to help out with anything needing doing.
the truck was a beast but we got used to it and spent many hours going over bumpy, dusty roads. Getting stuck in the mud was quite an adventure, but again, teamwork prevailed and we survived.

5 hours in Dubai is giving me the time I need to catch up on my blog. It was hard saying goodbye to my friends today and I am realising that this trip is full of rich friendships from all over the world that inevitably end in goodbye, very few who I will see again. You get very close, very quickly and begin trusting people who are complete strangers. Everybody shares everything they have, whether it's snacks, bug spray, medications, or even clothing. It is the way of the traveller.
There is an acronym we use here  in Africa: TIA (this is Africa). It explains away anything and is always said with a big smile. 

Nairobi (Maasai meaning: "place of cool waters")
I arrived safely after an uneventful journey from Addis to Nairobi. I got here around mid afternoon so had plenty of time to get settled and found myself beside the pool as it was a hot and humid day. The swim was glorious. I met the group at 6pm and then had a beer and dinner with Stephani from NYC (a replica of Carrie from Sex in the City.....really) and Liz from Yorkshire. These girls are going to be a lot of fun! There are 14 people including people from London, New Zealand, Ireland, Germany and NYC. The guides, drivers and cook are Kenyan. So far, it seems like a good group.
The vehicle is massive and capable of taking us on very rough roads. It will carry everything we need for the safari including dishes, tents, sleeping mats and food and water. We each have our own locker which has to fit all our belongings - i am so glad i have learned to pack light. I'm really looking forward to doing some proper camping and we are told that the bush camps in the Serengeti are located amidst the animals whom are free to roam where they will. It is not unusual to have hyenas, warthogs and even elephants visit your campsite in the night! First stop was overlooking the Rift Valley which was incredible! The thorny Acacia trees, so quintessentially African, stand out against the serene landscape.
We continued to travel through the tea-growing highlands going west towards the Tanzania border. It is quite hot, high 30's and I am enjoying the warmth and sunshine. This is the ancient homeland of the Massai, tall, graceful tribesmen dressed in distinctive scarlet robes, tending their prized herds of cattle. Children stand by the side of the road, their bright smiles  so beautiful, waving up at us as we pass by. The countryside is lush and green and the donkeys look healthy and strong, unlike the ones in Morocco who were skinny and carrying too much weight.
We stopped in the hilltop town of Kisii where we stocked up on all the supplies as we head out into the African wilderness to begin our safari on the Serengeti. 8 hours on a very rough road. Tonight we are staying just outside of Kisii, in dormitories  with hot showers, flush toilets, and beds with bedding,  the last luxury before the upcoming bush camps with cold showers and stand toilets.

Bahar Dair

I left very early this morning, arriving in Bahar Dair around 9:30am. I had arranged a driver and a guide (Kindu) to take me to the Blue Nile Falls and the monasteries on the peninsula. He greeted me with enthusiasm and since I was his only customer, took good care to ensue I had a good experience. We drove through the city to the lake where my hotel was; I dropped off my suitcase and off we went. It was a very hot day and the road was dusty and rough. We passed many people on their way to market, miles away. The men, draped in the traditional gabi carrying a stick across their shoulders, their thin spindly legs like sticks. The women, draped in their traditional dresses and natelas, carrying huge bundles on their heads, invariably a child strapped to their backs. We complain when we have to walk anywhere...I am struck by the searing contrast of my life.
The journey was hot and dusty, the road very rough. We passed a garbage dump with flocks of buzzards perched heavily on the branches of the trees, somehow managing to look majestic, waiting to dive down to eat something fleshy and dead. To keep them at bay, the men started burning the rubbish, acrid smoke filling the air.
The jaquaranda trees were in full bloom, the branches heavy with the mauve blossoms, like puffs of purple smoke standing out against the dry, brown landscape. I wanted to get closer so I could smell them, wondering if they even have a scent.
We drove through the village where the market took place, a busy, bustling hive of activity. Children running around, barefoot and ragged, goats and donkeys sometimes making it impossible to pass. We eventually got to the place where we met the local guide and began walking towards the falls. It was a moderate climb up into the hills, very hot and dusty. At one point I found myself thinking - here I am, in the middle of a strange country with two men I don't know, trusting that they will take me where I want to go. Again, as in so many times on my travels, I felt I was taken care of. The last bit was to cross a suspension bridge high above the rocky river bed, dry now until the rains come. I am terrified of heights but managed to cross by looking up and holding the hand of my trusty guide.
I knew that being the dry season the Blue Nile Falls would be underwhelming, but the landscape and beauty of the area was spectacular. I saw where the Blue Nile feeds into Lake Tana.
The next day we took a boat across the lake to the peninsula and onto what felt like an unspoiled remote island. Again, the warmth and smiles were so beguiling and I find myself pulled into the life there. I saw monkeys swinging and playing in the trees, tasted the juice from the ripe coffee beans, bought a small painting from a local artist who uses natural colours from the plants and flowers, took traditional, ceremonial tea, and had a tour of the 14th century church. When i think of all the magnificent churches i have seen along the way, I felt more at home in this humble and well loved church. This island was paradise to me and I am once again struck by the simplicity and appreciation for the environment the people live in. I want to live there!

Back to Addis where I was picked up at the airport by Ray and the boys. We had a lovely day lounging by the pool at the Sheraton and then an amazing last night dinner at an authentic Ethiopian restaurant which was so good, in fact best meal in Ethiopia. Saying goodbye to this little family was difficult for me as I grew very close to them all in the week we spent together. I think of them with great fondness and hope it won't be too long till I see them all again.

I wish I had more time to visit Gondor and Lalibela but I guess this just means I'll have to come back some day.

Ethiopian Coffee Ceremony

I had read about this and wondered if I would be able to experience it, which, to my great delight was arranged for me by Al on Monday afternoon. Almez had prepared the little customery table laid with cups, spoons and coffee pot and placed it on the floor. Beside the tiny table, a small hibachi heating coals with frankincense, giving off that familiar smell reminding me of the incense in church. She sat on a tiny stool and took a small, flat pan and began to roast the green coffee beans over the coals. Once the beans were sufficiently roasted and we could smell their rich, dark, smokey odour, she took them off the heat and put them into a mortar and ground them with the stone pestle into a rich, black dust. She spooned it delicately into the narrow spout of the clay coffee pot and added hot water. We drank two tiny cups each, without sugar or milk. It was so thick and full of flavour, nothing like what I drink at home. Coffee is one of the major exports in Ethiopia, the arabica bean being the most widely known. Al told me that when you share coffee in this traditional way, you would go to the home of one of your neighbours and everyone would sit on the floor, talking and sharing the gossip and stories of the week. Popcorn is served with the coffee, a strange combination, but one that works quite well, I thought.