My first experience with bush camping has been great. There is a style of travel in Africa called overland exploring. It's inexpensive and requires that you help out with the basic cooking, cleaning and maintenance. When we get to the camp site, everyone gets out of the truck, grabs their tent and sets it up. Then you get your stuff out of your locker, set it up in your tent - sleeping mat and bedding, clothing etc. it's best to do this when it's light as it is often remote and there is little light once it goes dark. A headlamp is absolutely essential, as are extra batteries. There is a rota of duties and you are part of a team of four. Duties range from food prep, cleaning out the truck, dishes, and pots and pans, and "flapping", a technique for drying dishes in the most sanitary way, this is actually quite brilliant. There are three basins, one to do the initial rinse, the next with hot soapy water, then a first rinse with a little Dettol in it, and the last simply a hot rinse. Everyone takes a dish in each hand and flaps around until they are dry. The same goes for washing hands. One basin with soap and a scrub brush, one rinse with dettol and the last one a clear rinse. No one got sick in the whole time we were away. It's amazing to me how quickly we became efficient at set-up and take-down each day. There is lots of laughter and everyone is willing to help out with anything needing doing.
the truck was a beast but we got used to it and spent many hours going over bumpy, dusty roads. Getting stuck in the mud was quite an adventure, but again, teamwork prevailed and we survived.
Sunday, 11 March 2012
5 hours in Dubai is giving me the time I need to catch up on my blog. It was hard saying goodbye to my friends today and I am realising that this trip is full of rich friendships from all over the world that inevitably end in goodbye, very few who I will see again. You get very close, very quickly and begin trusting people who are complete strangers. Everybody shares everything they have, whether it's snacks, bug spray, medications, or even clothing. It is the way of the traveller.
There is an acronym we use here in Africa: TIA (this is Africa). It explains away anything and is always said with a big smile.
Nairobi (Maasai meaning: "place of cool waters")
I arrived safely after an uneventful journey from Addis to Nairobi. I got here around mid afternoon so had plenty of time to get settled and found myself beside the pool as it was a hot and humid day. The swim was glorious. I met the group at 6pm and then had a beer and dinner with Stephani from NYC (a replica of Carrie from Sex in the City.....really) and Liz from Yorkshire. These girls are going to be a lot of fun! There are 14 people including people from London, New Zealand, Ireland, Germany and NYC. The guides, drivers and cook are Kenyan. So far, it seems like a good group.
The vehicle is massive and capable of taking us on very rough roads. It will carry everything we need for the safari including dishes, tents, sleeping mats and food and water. We each have our own locker which has to fit all our belongings - i am so glad i have learned to pack light. I'm really looking forward to doing some proper camping and we are told that the bush camps in the Serengeti are located amidst the animals whom are free to roam where they will. It is not unusual to have hyenas, warthogs and even elephants visit your campsite in the night! First stop was overlooking the Rift Valley which was incredible! The thorny Acacia trees, so quintessentially African, stand out against the serene landscape.
We continued to travel through the tea-growing highlands going west towards the Tanzania border. It is quite hot, high 30's and I am enjoying the warmth and sunshine. This is the ancient homeland of the Massai, tall, graceful tribesmen dressed in distinctive scarlet robes, tending their prized herds of cattle. Children stand by the side of the road, their bright smiles so beautiful, waving up at us as we pass by. The countryside is lush and green and the donkeys look healthy and strong, unlike the ones in Morocco who were skinny and carrying too much weight.
We stopped in the hilltop town of Kisii where we stocked up on all the supplies as we head out into the African wilderness to begin our safari on the Serengeti. 8 hours on a very rough road. Tonight we are staying just outside of Kisii, in dormitories with hot showers, flush toilets, and beds with bedding, the last luxury before the upcoming bush camps with cold showers and stand toilets.
There is an acronym we use here in Africa: TIA (this is Africa). It explains away anything and is always said with a big smile.
Nairobi (Maasai meaning: "place of cool waters")
I arrived safely after an uneventful journey from Addis to Nairobi. I got here around mid afternoon so had plenty of time to get settled and found myself beside the pool as it was a hot and humid day. The swim was glorious. I met the group at 6pm and then had a beer and dinner with Stephani from NYC (a replica of Carrie from Sex in the City.....really) and Liz from Yorkshire. These girls are going to be a lot of fun! There are 14 people including people from London, New Zealand, Ireland, Germany and NYC. The guides, drivers and cook are Kenyan. So far, it seems like a good group.
The vehicle is massive and capable of taking us on very rough roads. It will carry everything we need for the safari including dishes, tents, sleeping mats and food and water. We each have our own locker which has to fit all our belongings - i am so glad i have learned to pack light. I'm really looking forward to doing some proper camping and we are told that the bush camps in the Serengeti are located amidst the animals whom are free to roam where they will. It is not unusual to have hyenas, warthogs and even elephants visit your campsite in the night! First stop was overlooking the Rift Valley which was incredible! The thorny Acacia trees, so quintessentially African, stand out against the serene landscape.
We continued to travel through the tea-growing highlands going west towards the Tanzania border. It is quite hot, high 30's and I am enjoying the warmth and sunshine. This is the ancient homeland of the Massai, tall, graceful tribesmen dressed in distinctive scarlet robes, tending their prized herds of cattle. Children stand by the side of the road, their bright smiles so beautiful, waving up at us as we pass by. The countryside is lush and green and the donkeys look healthy and strong, unlike the ones in Morocco who were skinny and carrying too much weight.
We stopped in the hilltop town of Kisii where we stocked up on all the supplies as we head out into the African wilderness to begin our safari on the Serengeti. 8 hours on a very rough road. Tonight we are staying just outside of Kisii, in dormitories with hot showers, flush toilets, and beds with bedding, the last luxury before the upcoming bush camps with cold showers and stand toilets.
Saturday, 10 March 2012
Bahar Dair
I left very early this morning, arriving in Bahar Dair around 9:30am. I had arranged a driver and a guide (Kindu) to take me to the Blue Nile Falls and the monasteries on the peninsula. He greeted me with enthusiasm and since I was his only customer, took good care to ensue I had a good experience. We drove through the city to the lake where my hotel was; I dropped off my suitcase and off we went. It was a very hot day and the road was dusty and rough. We passed many people on their way to market, miles away. The men, draped in the traditional gabi carrying a stick across their shoulders, their thin spindly legs like sticks. The women, draped in their traditional dresses and natelas, carrying huge bundles on their heads, invariably a child strapped to their backs. We complain when we have to walk anywhere...I am struck by the searing contrast of my life.
The journey was hot and dusty, the road very rough. We passed a garbage dump with flocks of buzzards perched heavily on the branches of the trees, somehow managing to look majestic, waiting to dive down to eat something fleshy and dead. To keep them at bay, the men started burning the rubbish, acrid smoke filling the air.
The jaquaranda trees were in full bloom, the branches heavy with the mauve blossoms, like puffs of purple smoke standing out against the dry, brown landscape. I wanted to get closer so I could smell them, wondering if they even have a scent.
We drove through the village where the market took place, a busy, bustling hive of activity. Children running around, barefoot and ragged, goats and donkeys sometimes making it impossible to pass. We eventually got to the place where we met the local guide and began walking towards the falls. It was a moderate climb up into the hills, very hot and dusty. At one point I found myself thinking - here I am, in the middle of a strange country with two men I don't know, trusting that they will take me where I want to go. Again, as in so many times on my travels, I felt I was taken care of. The last bit was to cross a suspension bridge high above the rocky river bed, dry now until the rains come. I am terrified of heights but managed to cross by looking up and holding the hand of my trusty guide.
I knew that being the dry season the Blue Nile Falls would be underwhelming, but the landscape and beauty of the area was spectacular. I saw where the Blue Nile feeds into Lake Tana.
The next day we took a boat across the lake to the peninsula and onto what felt like an unspoiled remote island. Again, the warmth and smiles were so beguiling and I find myself pulled into the life there. I saw monkeys swinging and playing in the trees, tasted the juice from the ripe coffee beans, bought a small painting from a local artist who uses natural colours from the plants and flowers, took traditional, ceremonial tea, and had a tour of the 14th century church. When i think of all the magnificent churches i have seen along the way, I felt more at home in this humble and well loved church. This island was paradise to me and I am once again struck by the simplicity and appreciation for the environment the people live in. I want to live there!
Back to Addis where I was picked up at the airport by Ray and the boys. We had a lovely day lounging by the pool at the Sheraton and then an amazing last night dinner at an authentic Ethiopian restaurant which was so good, in fact best meal in Ethiopia. Saying goodbye to this little family was difficult for me as I grew very close to them all in the week we spent together. I think of them with great fondness and hope it won't be too long till I see them all again.
I wish I had more time to visit Gondor and Lalibela but I guess this just means I'll have to come back some day.
The journey was hot and dusty, the road very rough. We passed a garbage dump with flocks of buzzards perched heavily on the branches of the trees, somehow managing to look majestic, waiting to dive down to eat something fleshy and dead. To keep them at bay, the men started burning the rubbish, acrid smoke filling the air.
The jaquaranda trees were in full bloom, the branches heavy with the mauve blossoms, like puffs of purple smoke standing out against the dry, brown landscape. I wanted to get closer so I could smell them, wondering if they even have a scent.
We drove through the village where the market took place, a busy, bustling hive of activity. Children running around, barefoot and ragged, goats and donkeys sometimes making it impossible to pass. We eventually got to the place where we met the local guide and began walking towards the falls. It was a moderate climb up into the hills, very hot and dusty. At one point I found myself thinking - here I am, in the middle of a strange country with two men I don't know, trusting that they will take me where I want to go. Again, as in so many times on my travels, I felt I was taken care of. The last bit was to cross a suspension bridge high above the rocky river bed, dry now until the rains come. I am terrified of heights but managed to cross by looking up and holding the hand of my trusty guide.
I knew that being the dry season the Blue Nile Falls would be underwhelming, but the landscape and beauty of the area was spectacular. I saw where the Blue Nile feeds into Lake Tana.
The next day we took a boat across the lake to the peninsula and onto what felt like an unspoiled remote island. Again, the warmth and smiles were so beguiling and I find myself pulled into the life there. I saw monkeys swinging and playing in the trees, tasted the juice from the ripe coffee beans, bought a small painting from a local artist who uses natural colours from the plants and flowers, took traditional, ceremonial tea, and had a tour of the 14th century church. When i think of all the magnificent churches i have seen along the way, I felt more at home in this humble and well loved church. This island was paradise to me and I am once again struck by the simplicity and appreciation for the environment the people live in. I want to live there!
Back to Addis where I was picked up at the airport by Ray and the boys. We had a lovely day lounging by the pool at the Sheraton and then an amazing last night dinner at an authentic Ethiopian restaurant which was so good, in fact best meal in Ethiopia. Saying goodbye to this little family was difficult for me as I grew very close to them all in the week we spent together. I think of them with great fondness and hope it won't be too long till I see them all again.
I wish I had more time to visit Gondor and Lalibela but I guess this just means I'll have to come back some day.
Friday, 2 March 2012
Ethiopian Coffee Ceremony
I had read about this and wondered if I would be able to experience it, which, to my great delight was arranged for me by Al on Monday afternoon. Almez had prepared the little customery table laid with cups, spoons and coffee pot and placed it on the floor. Beside the tiny table, a small hibachi heating coals with frankincense, giving off that familiar smell reminding me of the incense in church. She sat on a tiny stool and took a small, flat pan and began to roast the green coffee beans over the coals. Once the beans were sufficiently roasted and we could smell their rich, dark, smokey odour, she took them off the heat and put them into a mortar and ground them with the stone pestle into a rich, black dust. She spooned it delicately into the narrow spout of the clay coffee pot and added hot water. We drank two tiny cups each, without sugar or milk. It was so thick and full of flavour, nothing like what I drink at home. Coffee is one of the major exports in Ethiopia, the arabica bean being the most widely known. Al told me that when you share coffee in this traditional way, you would go to the home of one of your neighbours and everyone would sit on the floor, talking and sharing the gossip and stories of the week. Popcorn is served with the coffee, a strange combination, but one that works quite well, I thought.
Addis Ababa
Addis Ababa is a busy, bustling city where beggars, tuk tuks, and street children clamour for your attention - I felt as I have felt in other places in Africa, overwhelmed with the sight of ragged dirty children, polio cripples, and people relieving themselves in public. Despite all this, I never felt any threat to my personal safety other than being a passenger in a vehicle...the driving is crazy!
Alemu spent the past couple of days taking me to the museums and art galleries in Addis. We first went to the National Museum where the skeletal remains of Lucy, a hominid woman who lived about 3.2million years ago are kept. Ethiopians refer to her as "Dinquinesh", meaning "thou art wonderful". Although not the oldest skeleton ever found, the finding was significant in that it proved that humans were walking upright 2.5 million years earlier than previously thought. I found it all so fascinating.
We visited the university which was once the palace of the Emperor Haile Selasi. Inside, the museum does a wonderful job of showing the life and history of the Ethiopian people describing the rituals of birth, marriage and death as well as what happens when young boys and girls come of age. Colourful artwork from the 16th and 17th century depicting religious stories from the bible, painted with natural inks that were once vibrant and rich. In another area there were vestments and jewels once worn by the deacons and high priests of the orthodox church. They were kept in dusty glass cases, a mere padlock keeping them safe. I couldn't help compare these "riches" with the ostentatious blatancy of the crown jewels and the many priceless accoutrements with their high and technical security. The contrast was profound.
Alemu spent the past couple of days taking me to the museums and art galleries in Addis. We first went to the National Museum where the skeletal remains of Lucy, a hominid woman who lived about 3.2million years ago are kept. Ethiopians refer to her as "Dinquinesh", meaning "thou art wonderful". Although not the oldest skeleton ever found, the finding was significant in that it proved that humans were walking upright 2.5 million years earlier than previously thought. I found it all so fascinating.
We visited the university which was once the palace of the Emperor Haile Selasi. Inside, the museum does a wonderful job of showing the life and history of the Ethiopian people describing the rituals of birth, marriage and death as well as what happens when young boys and girls come of age. Colourful artwork from the 16th and 17th century depicting religious stories from the bible, painted with natural inks that were once vibrant and rich. In another area there were vestments and jewels once worn by the deacons and high priests of the orthodox church. They were kept in dusty glass cases, a mere padlock keeping them safe. I couldn't help compare these "riches" with the ostentatious blatancy of the crown jewels and the many priceless accoutrements with their high and technical security. The contrast was profound.
Tuesday, 28 February 2012
First few days in Ethiopia
Since I don't have access to regular Internet, I am writing a diary on my ipad and then putting it in when I get access, so you will get more than one day at a time. Right now, I'm sitting in the airport in Addis Ababa waiting for my flight to Bahar Dar.
Here we go....
Ethiopia Day 1
After a very long journey, I arrived about noon in Addis Ababa and was met at the airport by my cousin's husband Alimu. It is not often that I am met by someone and was grateful not to have to find my way around another busy airport or arrange a taxi fare in a language I don't speak. It was a long journey and I was tired - I did not sleep on the plane, and very happy to see Rachel, Al, and the boys Theo and Nathanial.
On the journey from Manchester to Dubai, I sat beside the nicest young man from Glasgow. It was a fairly long flight and we had some nice chats. I love the Scottish accent, it is perhaps, my favourite. He is a pilot and knew all the idiosyncraties of getting what you want in economy! He reminded me of my sons and i found myself missing my boys. What a sweet guy he was, helping a woman with her 2 little ones off the plane and into the craziness of Dubai airport where everyone is connecting to some other destination. I had to make my connection so was scurried off to my gate. My gate was #136 and when I saw the sign saying "gate 101-240", I knew there was a possibility I wouldn't make my connecting flight. Running was not an option because the airport was so crowded. I hurried as best I could and made it just in time.
It was Nathanials birthday on the 22nd, same day as my Robbie, and I brought a suitcase full of presents for him and of course, luxuries from England - sausages, bacon, and cheese!
I woke up this morning, for a split second wondering where I was. It was dark and I lay there and listened to the sounds of a city awakening, in particular, the soothing and monotonous Muslim call to prayer.
Addis is the national Capitol of Africa, much like Brussels is the capitol of the European Union. The language is Amhera and the currency is the birr. Im finding it confusing trying to convert from birr to pound to canadian dollar.
My cousin and her family live in a house provided by the school. It is modest, but large and comfortable. They employ two people - a maid named Almez and a gate keeper called Habtamu who watches over the house while they are not here and is given a room in the lower part of the house. As in other African countries, there is a large section of desperately poor people living in slums and then the middle class people who are fortunate enough to have a house, a job and perhaps a car. These two people that Ray and Al employ are very grateful for these jobs.
When I arrived, there was a birthday party for Nathanial and, as at home, it is attended by the parents as well so I was able to meet some of the other expats who work with Ray and Al.
Day 2
Back in sandals and a beautifully warm climate. My body is happily soaking up the rays of the intense sun and i am a little sunburnt despite sunscreen. Last night we went to Ray and Al's "local" and enjoyed an evening sitting on plastic stools outside drinking beer and watching the scene on the busy night street. Theo and Nathanial brought their latest game gadgets and were as good as gold. Once again, I am conscience of my skin colour and am regarded with curiosity. I have learned to reign in my natural friendliness and not make eye contact as it promotes people, mostly men, to take advantage and pester me unabashedly. This morning Ray went to work - she teaches high school - and they occasionally have school on a Saturday morning. Al and I walked to the school as the boys had a football game there. He showed me around the school which was impressive.
Day 3
Today we woke up with no water. We noticed yesterday the water pressure was low. Apparently a water main burst on the East side of Addis affecting the residential area where Ray and Al live. There is is a water source near their house and we noticed many people from the slums carrying jerry cans and queing up in long lines to get water. The Sheraton was closed so we couldn't go there and I must admit after a day in the hot sun and the dusty dry streets, I'm feeling a bit grubby. Such is life in a developing country.
I booked a two day trip to Bahad Dair in the north which I will fly to.
Being only 7 degrees from the equator, there is almost exactly 12 hours of daylight and 12 hours of darkness. The change from dark to light, and vice versa, happens very quickly. It is like this year round.
Here we go....
Ethiopia Day 1
After a very long journey, I arrived about noon in Addis Ababa and was met at the airport by my cousin's husband Alimu. It is not often that I am met by someone and was grateful not to have to find my way around another busy airport or arrange a taxi fare in a language I don't speak. It was a long journey and I was tired - I did not sleep on the plane, and very happy to see Rachel, Al, and the boys Theo and Nathanial.
On the journey from Manchester to Dubai, I sat beside the nicest young man from Glasgow. It was a fairly long flight and we had some nice chats. I love the Scottish accent, it is perhaps, my favourite. He is a pilot and knew all the idiosyncraties of getting what you want in economy! He reminded me of my sons and i found myself missing my boys. What a sweet guy he was, helping a woman with her 2 little ones off the plane and into the craziness of Dubai airport where everyone is connecting to some other destination. I had to make my connection so was scurried off to my gate. My gate was #136 and when I saw the sign saying "gate 101-240", I knew there was a possibility I wouldn't make my connecting flight. Running was not an option because the airport was so crowded. I hurried as best I could and made it just in time.
It was Nathanials birthday on the 22nd, same day as my Robbie, and I brought a suitcase full of presents for him and of course, luxuries from England - sausages, bacon, and cheese!
I woke up this morning, for a split second wondering where I was. It was dark and I lay there and listened to the sounds of a city awakening, in particular, the soothing and monotonous Muslim call to prayer.
Addis is the national Capitol of Africa, much like Brussels is the capitol of the European Union. The language is Amhera and the currency is the birr. Im finding it confusing trying to convert from birr to pound to canadian dollar.
My cousin and her family live in a house provided by the school. It is modest, but large and comfortable. They employ two people - a maid named Almez and a gate keeper called Habtamu who watches over the house while they are not here and is given a room in the lower part of the house. As in other African countries, there is a large section of desperately poor people living in slums and then the middle class people who are fortunate enough to have a house, a job and perhaps a car. These two people that Ray and Al employ are very grateful for these jobs.
When I arrived, there was a birthday party for Nathanial and, as at home, it is attended by the parents as well so I was able to meet some of the other expats who work with Ray and Al.
Day 2
Back in sandals and a beautifully warm climate. My body is happily soaking up the rays of the intense sun and i am a little sunburnt despite sunscreen. Last night we went to Ray and Al's "local" and enjoyed an evening sitting on plastic stools outside drinking beer and watching the scene on the busy night street. Theo and Nathanial brought their latest game gadgets and were as good as gold. Once again, I am conscience of my skin colour and am regarded with curiosity. I have learned to reign in my natural friendliness and not make eye contact as it promotes people, mostly men, to take advantage and pester me unabashedly. This morning Ray went to work - she teaches high school - and they occasionally have school on a Saturday morning. Al and I walked to the school as the boys had a football game there. He showed me around the school which was impressive.
Day 3
Today we woke up with no water. We noticed yesterday the water pressure was low. Apparently a water main burst on the East side of Addis affecting the residential area where Ray and Al live. There is is a water source near their house and we noticed many people from the slums carrying jerry cans and queing up in long lines to get water. The Sheraton was closed so we couldn't go there and I must admit after a day in the hot sun and the dusty dry streets, I'm feeling a bit grubby. Such is life in a developing country.
I booked a two day trip to Bahad Dair in the north which I will fly to.
Being only 7 degrees from the equator, there is almost exactly 12 hours of daylight and 12 hours of darkness. The change from dark to light, and vice versa, happens very quickly. It is like this year round.
Sunday, 19 February 2012
True Story
I was visiting my great aunt Winefride yesterday and she told me this story:
Winefride owns a little cottage in Wales and though she doesn't go there too often, she is good friends with one of her neighbours. Recently the neighbour, let's call her Jane - had a friend visiting her and this friend brought along her little dog. One day they decided to go for a walk in Anglesey. After a short time, they noticed that the little dog was not with them and since they were walking along the water, they became very worried. They called and called, but still no dog. Jane could see that her friend was becoming quite frantic so she suggested they split up and go in opposite directions. Her friend started off, frantically calling the dog. After a time, she came across a couple who were out for a stroll. She was so distraught that she didn't really look at them but asked if they had seen a little dog. They politely replied that they had not so she suggested she give them her number in case they did see him and could call her. She proceeded to give it to them and when she looked up, realised she was talking to Prince William and the Duchess of Cambridge! You can imagine her reaction! Within a few moments, and as if knowing he was missing out on something important, the dog showed up. It was reported that Kate was very affectionate with the dog and they all had a nice little chat!
Winefride owns a little cottage in Wales and though she doesn't go there too often, she is good friends with one of her neighbours. Recently the neighbour, let's call her Jane - had a friend visiting her and this friend brought along her little dog. One day they decided to go for a walk in Anglesey. After a short time, they noticed that the little dog was not with them and since they were walking along the water, they became very worried. They called and called, but still no dog. Jane could see that her friend was becoming quite frantic so she suggested they split up and go in opposite directions. Her friend started off, frantically calling the dog. After a time, she came across a couple who were out for a stroll. She was so distraught that she didn't really look at them but asked if they had seen a little dog. They politely replied that they had not so she suggested she give them her number in case they did see him and could call her. She proceeded to give it to them and when she looked up, realised she was talking to Prince William and the Duchess of Cambridge! You can imagine her reaction! Within a few moments, and as if knowing he was missing out on something important, the dog showed up. It was reported that Kate was very affectionate with the dog and they all had a nice little chat!
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)