Los Arcos....a long day in the sun

I haven´t written for a while as it is often hard to get onto the computer at the end of the day in the refugios. Last night, I stayed in a terrible one, it was not clean and very hot. many beds in a huge room so lots of snoring! Tonight I am staying in a newer one with only 6 beds to a room and breakfast included. I have made many friends along the way but will be parting ways with them tomorrow as I will not be able to walk 30k with my bad blister. It seems the Camino is telling me to slow down and take more time. I will have to cut this short as lights out has passed but there is a football game on so they are letting some of the guys stay up and watch the game. Anyway, this is very hard and I am discouraged with my blister but still hoping it will eventually heal. I am prepared to stay one more night in Logrono if necessary. The weather is blistering hot and today there was no shade at all. Rewards are the incredible scenery, the old monastery´s and medival buildings and churches you pass by and today was the day of the wine fountain which I drank from at 8.00 am! I am so hot I have totally lost my appetite during the day and can only manage a cafe con leche and some fruit. Sometimes the cafes offer fresh squeezed orange juice which I happily take part in! Tonight my friend Frances from Belgium and I cooked a meal for some of the people staying here. It was so much fun and we drank wine and talked till late. I am being asked to get off the computer so will bid you goodnight. Thanks for thinking of me...please pray for my blister to heal. I am learning to live in the moment.

Blisters and Blarney

I have a huge blister on my heel and am wishing Leah was here with her gel bandages! It was 34 degrees yesterday and the hills didn´t end. We got to Zuburi, and they told us the hostel was closed in Larasonna, so we had to stay in Zubiri instead. I was so hot, tired, sore and in pain. The only thing that made me quit complaining is that there is a group of Irish people and they are so happy all the time. One of the guys is blind and he has the biggest smile on his face and keeps saying how wonderful it all is. So there. Anyway, it is 8am and I am on to Pamploma so I better get going before it gets too hot. Pray for me and my blister.....

Roncesvalles...I made it!

Well, that was probably the hardest thing I´ve ever done. It was a mix of Gordon Rd, Pulpit Rock, and Silverspray. Seriously didn´t think I was going to make it at times. I walked with a young woman named Anna from the US (living in Paris) and we helped each other along. It was 31 degrees which made it a little harder with the heat. Anyway, we were rewarded with unimaginably beautiful sights. Green rolling hills, sheep grazing with their bells tolling, birds singing and otherwise completely silent. I was truly overcome with the beauty of it all. It was a gruelling day and took us longer than we thought, however we made it.  I can now say that I walked from France into Spain over the Pyrenees and survived to tell the tale. When we got here, we were given our rooms in an old monestary (300 plus rooms) and I crept to the shower, nearly weeping with joy, as they were clean, new and vacant! I showered, washed my clothes and then went for a cold beer down in one of the hotel bars. We then had a wonderful ¨"Pilgrims meal¨" complete with pasta, fish, and wine. 9 euros. On the way back, I said to my friends, I´m just going to have a look at the cathedral and when I got in, they were just starting Mass for the pilgrims. I decided to stay and was very glad I did. Even tho it was in Spanish, it was beautiful in the century´s old church complete with full organ and 30´foot stained glass windows. I felt very special as they prayed for all the pilgrims on the road that day. I am beyond tired and need to tend to my blister (damn!) and then close my eyes and rest my weary body before the 24km walk tomorrow. I have met people from Belgium, USA, England, Ireland, Netherlands, Spain, and Canada....amazing! Good night, and bless you all. Love jenn

St. Jean Pied de Port

Well, I made it to St Jean after an amazing day/night in Bordeaux. Beautiful city full of life and culture. On to St. Jean via train to Bayonne and then bus. So far, have met some wonderful people, my first pilgrim friends Maureen and Nadine from Canada. At the hostel there are 20 or so pilgrims beginning tomorrow and all but myself and one other young girl from USA are stopping in Orrisson. I'm beginning to wonder about my decision to go to Roncesvalles (27k) all in one day and as I look at the mighty Pyrenees looming ahead of me, am feeling a bit intimidated. I remain steadfast in my decision despite the challenge. \The weather is supposed to be sunny and warm and my hosts will be providing me with a lunch for the road. The hostel I'm at is called L'Espirit Chemin and is a cozy little pl.ace where I have been welcomed warmly. We had a "family dinner" and we all got to know one another a little bit. As I begin this journey tomorrow, I do so knowing I am loved and thought of from those back home and it encourages me. I have my pilgrim passport, food for tomorrow, and a good attitude to take me into the mountains. Buen Camino!!

Banks

Trying to figure out why my bank at home would tell me that I need a 5 digit pin number in UK and EU when I really only need my regular 4 digit pin. It amazes me that they don't know this. Didn't need this frustration but I have a few Euros now and a nice hotel booked and paid for tonight in Bordeaux but God knows if it will all work when I need to get more money. Oh well, I guess this is all part of the adventure, right? Wish me luck.

Liverpool

Well, I managed to make it to Liverpool in one piece despite a delayed flight which made me miss my first train. Navigating the underground after 11 hours on a plane, carrying luggage, trying to make my way through the crowds, buy tickets and figure out which way to go, was a bit of an undertaking. For those of you who know me well, know how easy it is for me to get lost. It's embarrassing and I'm really proud of myself for successfully getting myself to Liverpool. I was met at the train station by my Aunt Susie and we were so happy to see one another after 4 years. She and Terry always make me feel so welcome and it felt like coming home. Since arriving it's been a flurry of activity visiting  my Mom's other lovely sister Ange, as well as my cousins Gemma, Mel and Phil, and Ruth and Roland. I spent yesterday at a food and drink festival in Sefton Park with Mel, Phil and their children, Gemma and a good friend Chris. Food was consumed, as was the odd pint or three, finishing off the day with fish and chips. Predictable, I know, but thoroughly enjoyable. Today I went to a cricket match that Ruth and Roland's son Barney was playing in. It was the finals and though they didn't win, it was a lovely sunny day, Barney was a star and we had a good visit. Pub lunch and now dinner at Mel and Phil's after a nice walk on the beach. I'm feeling good, though still a little jet-lagged but hope to be in fine form before I leave for France on Tuesday. Oh look! Phil just brought me a beer! Bless him.

I'm off!

You can see from the previous photo the state of my packing a few days ago. When I finally put everything into my pack, it was clear I had too much stuff. My goal was to have my pack weigh around 16 pounds. It came in at 21.6!! I unpacked everything three times and then finally settled with 16.5, not including water or hiking boots. There wasn't really too much to take out but I reduced the amount of medical supplies and gadgets that I thought I needed. Turns out, one soap will work for everything I need to do: wash clothes, hair and body. I also took the water out of my water bag which made a big difference. I had worked myself into quite a tizzy over this and then went to pack my other bag of "normal" clothes. I chose the smallest carry-on I had and put in a few "luxury" items like shampoo and perfume and left it at that. I will beg, borrow or steal anything else I might need. Chances are, clothes won't fit after 35 days of hiking and walking anyway...unless I do nothing but eat tapas and drink wine! Last minute things to do: write a few emails, phone Robbie, shower, take out garbage, eat, pray that flight gets out of Castlegar and I make all the other connections.
I miss George already, but he was very happy to see Norm when I dropped him off last night.
Next post will come from Liverpool.