Roncesvalles...I made it!

Well, that was probably the hardest thing I´ve ever done. It was a mix of Gordon Rd, Pulpit Rock, and Silverspray. Seriously didn´t think I was going to make it at times. I walked with a young woman named Anna from the US (living in Paris) and we helped each other along. It was 31 degrees which made it a little harder with the heat. Anyway, we were rewarded with unimaginably beautiful sights. Green rolling hills, sheep grazing with their bells tolling, birds singing and otherwise completely silent. I was truly overcome with the beauty of it all. It was a gruelling day and took us longer than we thought, however we made it.  I can now say that I walked from France into Spain over the Pyrenees and survived to tell the tale. When we got here, we were given our rooms in an old monestary (300 plus rooms) and I crept to the shower, nearly weeping with joy, as they were clean, new and vacant! I showered, washed my clothes and then went for a cold beer down in one of the hotel bars. We then had a wonderful ¨"Pilgrims meal¨" complete with pasta, fish, and wine. 9 euros. On the way back, I said to my friends, I´m just going to have a look at the cathedral and when I got in, they were just starting Mass for the pilgrims. I decided to stay and was very glad I did. Even tho it was in Spanish, it was beautiful in the century´s old church complete with full organ and 30´foot stained glass windows. I felt very special as they prayed for all the pilgrims on the road that day. I am beyond tired and need to tend to my blister (damn!) and then close my eyes and rest my weary body before the 24km walk tomorrow. I have met people from Belgium, USA, England, Ireland, Netherlands, Spain, and Canada....amazing! Good night, and bless you all. Love jenn

St. Jean Pied de Port

Well, I made it to St Jean after an amazing day/night in Bordeaux. Beautiful city full of life and culture. On to St. Jean via train to Bayonne and then bus. So far, have met some wonderful people, my first pilgrim friends Maureen and Nadine from Canada. At the hostel there are 20 or so pilgrims beginning tomorrow and all but myself and one other young girl from USA are stopping in Orrisson. I'm beginning to wonder about my decision to go to Roncesvalles (27k) all in one day and as I look at the mighty Pyrenees looming ahead of me, am feeling a bit intimidated. I remain steadfast in my decision despite the challenge. \The weather is supposed to be sunny and warm and my hosts will be providing me with a lunch for the road. The hostel I'm at is called L'Espirit Chemin and is a cozy little pl.ace where I have been welcomed warmly. We had a "family dinner" and we all got to know one another a little bit. As I begin this journey tomorrow, I do so knowing I am loved and thought of from those back home and it encourages me. I have my pilgrim passport, food for tomorrow, and a good attitude to take me into the mountains. Buen Camino!!

Banks

Trying to figure out why my bank at home would tell me that I need a 5 digit pin number in UK and EU when I really only need my regular 4 digit pin. It amazes me that they don't know this. Didn't need this frustration but I have a few Euros now and a nice hotel booked and paid for tonight in Bordeaux but God knows if it will all work when I need to get more money. Oh well, I guess this is all part of the adventure, right? Wish me luck.

Liverpool

Well, I managed to make it to Liverpool in one piece despite a delayed flight which made me miss my first train. Navigating the underground after 11 hours on a plane, carrying luggage, trying to make my way through the crowds, buy tickets and figure out which way to go, was a bit of an undertaking. For those of you who know me well, know how easy it is for me to get lost. It's embarrassing and I'm really proud of myself for successfully getting myself to Liverpool. I was met at the train station by my Aunt Susie and we were so happy to see one another after 4 years. She and Terry always make me feel so welcome and it felt like coming home. Since arriving it's been a flurry of activity visiting  my Mom's other lovely sister Ange, as well as my cousins Gemma, Mel and Phil, and Ruth and Roland. I spent yesterday at a food and drink festival in Sefton Park with Mel, Phil and their children, Gemma and a good friend Chris. Food was consumed, as was the odd pint or three, finishing off the day with fish and chips. Predictable, I know, but thoroughly enjoyable. Today I went to a cricket match that Ruth and Roland's son Barney was playing in. It was the finals and though they didn't win, it was a lovely sunny day, Barney was a star and we had a good visit. Pub lunch and now dinner at Mel and Phil's after a nice walk on the beach. I'm feeling good, though still a little jet-lagged but hope to be in fine form before I leave for France on Tuesday. Oh look! Phil just brought me a beer! Bless him.

I'm off!

You can see from the previous photo the state of my packing a few days ago. When I finally put everything into my pack, it was clear I had too much stuff. My goal was to have my pack weigh around 16 pounds. It came in at 21.6!! I unpacked everything three times and then finally settled with 16.5, not including water or hiking boots. There wasn't really too much to take out but I reduced the amount of medical supplies and gadgets that I thought I needed. Turns out, one soap will work for everything I need to do: wash clothes, hair and body. I also took the water out of my water bag which made a big difference. I had worked myself into quite a tizzy over this and then went to pack my other bag of "normal" clothes. I chose the smallest carry-on I had and put in a few "luxury" items like shampoo and perfume and left it at that. I will beg, borrow or steal anything else I might need. Chances are, clothes won't fit after 35 days of hiking and walking anyway...unless I do nothing but eat tapas and drink wine! Last minute things to do: write a few emails, phone Robbie, shower, take out garbage, eat, pray that flight gets out of Castlegar and I make all the other connections.
I miss George already, but he was very happy to see Norm when I dropped him off last night.
Next post will come from Liverpool.

Poor George

As you can see from this photo, George is beginning to realize that things are not looking good. First of all, the bed that Sarah has occupied (and let him sleep on) for the past few weeks is now covered with unfamiliar stuff and no Sarah in sight. This alone is disturbing. Then he goes into my room where he sees.......the dreaded suitcase! He knows the jig is up and things are about to change. The good news is, and he doesn't realize this yet, but he will be spending time with two families he adores - Norm and Jeanette McCarvell, and Carrie and Sophie Fitzimons. He will be fine, but I will miss my walking companion terribly. It will be really weird and I know I will be looking for him along the way, in my shadow where he walks to keep out of the sun.

Preparation

As I begin this blog, I am aware that I should have started this weeks ago and, as usual, I am flying by the seat of my hitech-lightweight-quick-dry-walking pants. I am in full swing now, gathering all the bits and pieces that will eventually get stuffed into my pack, fine tuning my list of what is absolutely essential and what can and should be left behind so that my burden will be light.  As I have prepared both mentally and physically for this journey of my self, my soul, my destiny, I consider the many blessings and gifts that surround me. I am turning 50 on October 13th and my plan is to walk into Santiago that day. Please think of me on that day, and know that I will be thinking of you.

It's difficult to imagine being away for three months, and I am in the throes of preparation in the glorious aftermath of Sarah and Rob's beautiful wedding last weekend. I'm tired, I'm excited, I'm scared. But I have faith that it will all unfold as it's meant to and the three months will whiz by and I'll be back before you know it.

The name of my blog refers to a point on the Camino where pilgrims are encouraged to leave behind a stone that they have carried on their journey. Leaving a stone at the cross at Cruce de Ferro is a long tradition, and the size of the mound of stones is an indicator of the extent to which people follow it (I've seen photos). Few seem to know how old the actual iron cross is, but there are hints in the literature that the tradition is ancient. The act prepares the pilgrim for the final phase of the walk -- the joyful approach to Santiago.

My plan is to write as often as I can along the way and keep you updated on my travels. I look forward to reading your posts.