Day 2 - Peggy's Cove

The Lighthouse at Peggy's Cove

We met up with our group at 8:30 this morning, there are about 43 of us, mostly from the USA. It seems like a great bunch of people. Mom is getting quite a kick out of the tour guide named Chris and totally appreciates that he speaks slowly and clearly and she can hear everything he says. Turns out he's a working Actor and lives in Calgary.

Peggy's Cove

We began the day with a trip to the famous "Peggy's Cove". I loved how unspoiled it is. There are no hotels or typical souvenir shops, only a few shops that sell handmade local art. We walked out to the lighthouse that rests on the huge granite rocks where you can walk nearly to the edge to see the waves crashing onto them. Magnificent! The cove itself is lined with small shake sided shacks in weathered pastels, all with a dock and a fishing boat that looks like its been well used. We could have spent days there. There are several opinions about why it is called Peggy's Cove and who exactly Peggy is. The village is likely named after Saint Margaret's Bay (Peggy being the nickname for Margaret) and the most popular legend claims that the name came from the sole survivor of a shipwreck at Halibut Rock near the cove. No doubt there are many stories to lay claim to the name of this famous and quaint little village.

Back on the bus and to the Halifax harbor where we scattered for lunch. We met a really nice woman from Kelowna named Joan and she is proving to be good company. We ate the best seafood chowder I've ever tasted and sweet fresh cornbread just out of the oven. A few of us decided to do the 100 year anniversary of the sinking of the Titanic at the maritime museum. It was fascinating learning about the part Halifax played in the role of taking in the deceased off the rescue boats and burying the unclaimed bodies in the cemetery here. We visited the unmarked graves, some of which were later identified even years later. There were stories of people who perished that night, whose names and memories live on after 100 years, leaving a significant mark on the history of this beautiful city.

On the Road Again

Kootenay Lake

It's been four months now since I arrived back in Canada and the time has flown by. Seriously, I don't know how that happens. In the first couple of weeks I kept myself busy with paying bills, banking, income tax and house stuff. The weather wasn't great so it was all okay. I also reconnected with family and friends on a daily basis going for coffee, walks and dinner. The weather turned gorgeous and I spent 6 weeks enjoying the perfect Kootenay summer...and I mean PERFECT! Day after day of sunshine and heat. Living by the lake means a swim every day; the water warmed up considerably and although most people would say it is freezing, it's really lovely and refreshing in the 30 temperatures. My last swim in the lake was Sept 28th!

So now that I'm back on my blog, I'm ready to write again, specifically about my most recent trip: a three week trip across Canada and to the Maritimes with my dear Mom.

Since my blog was not working the whole time we were away, I'm going to post the entries one at a time. The dates are off and it is written in the present because I kept a journal on my iPad as we were travelling. Here goes:

October 3, 2012
My mom and I decided to take a little trip together. I was thinking she meant a trip around the Kootenay's staying in B&B's and checking out the local artisans' work. Turns out, she always wanted to go across Canada on the train. I couldn't say no.

We flew to Halifax via Toronto and even though it is my moms least favourite thing in the world (flying) she took her drugs and despite a 2-1/2 hour delay sitting on the Tarmac in TO, we made it to Halifax safe and sound.
First day - a gorgeous warm sunny day so we walked down to the pier from our hotel, about a 30 min walk and were delighted with the smells, sights and sounds of a busy port and boardwalk on the seafront. We strolled along looking at the ships and taking in the little shops. Not too busy this time of year and we enjoyed every moment.

One of the highlights of today was a tour of the Alexander Keith's brewery on lower Water street, complete with actors in period costume singing and serving us their delicious ales. We ate the best seafood chowder ever at a restaurant called "Salty's" finishing up with an ice cream from the east coast favourite - Cows Ice Cream. Yum! This was the beginning of a most extraordinary culinary experience. I can say I ate my way through the Maritimes. Yikes!

Tomorrow we meet up with a tour group and begin a 10 day tour of the Maritimes. I'm so excited to learn more of this vast and rich country I call "home". For now.

*Walk*Pray*Laugh*

When I began this journey ten months ago I had no idea the impact it would have  on me nor the adventures that lay ahead. I did not know I would change my plans to carry on travelling for the better part of a year. If I had thought about it, well, I probably wouldn't have done it. It evolved. I was open. It was meant to be.

As I contemplate  my journey home tomorrow I am trying to find a way to put into words my feelings, my thoughts, my anxieties and anticipation about ending what was the most extraordinary year of my life. I am excited beyond measure to see my children Sarah, Robbie, James and my son in law Robert, my Mom and all my friends, and, of course George, my puppy. How I have missed them! And I am very sad to say goodbye to everyone here - Sue and Terry, Ange, and all my cousins, and their lovely children as well as the friends I have made here. So, off come the hippy bracelets and the harem pants and on to the sobering reality of taxes, bills, responsibilities and the rather daunting prospect of finding a job..

 My blog has been an account of the details of my journey and my personal journal. I am amazed at the number of hits, ......mind you, 50% are probably my Mother! But I do appreciate those who have read and followed me along "The Way". What began as a 5 week pilgrimage has turned into a near year long discovery of who I am, what my life means and holds for me as I consider the next half of it. How do I keep with me those moments of sheer awe, of the extraordinary life changing experiences that will never be repeated, at least not in the same way. My mind is like a tornado, so many images and memories swirling around in my head it's dizzying! Even now, I will see something that reminds me of a situation, a person, a place, a moment and I get utterly lost in a memory that I hold dear to my heart. I must keep these moments alive even though I know it is not possible to live in those moments, and knowing they cannot be perceived by anyone else no matter how hard I try to describe them. If you see a smile cross my face at any given moment, you can be sure it will be because I am pondering one of those explicitly delicious moments, a memory I will hold on to ever so dearly. Some people have said, "you're like Julia Roberts in "Eat, Pray, Love".  I am naming this entry "Walk, Pray, Laugh". Here's why:
 **WALK** I must have walked hundreds of miles and have taken every opportunity to be outdoors. I have a weathered look about me and this has aged me considerably but I don't mind. To be outdoors is a welcome opportunity compared to working most of my life indoors. If I don't walk every day, I just don't feel quite right in my body. It calms my mind and exercises my body in a way that benefits and suits me. I have no aches or pains and feel healthy, well and fit. I am happiest when I am walking whether its along the beach of Crosby, the coastal cliffs of Cornwall, following the ubiquitous yellow arrow on the Camino path, hiking up a mountain in India, or walking through a pasture in northern England. Walking simply makes me happy.
 **PRAY** I have entered and prayed in countless churches and holy places of worship. I have lived prayer by walking the Meseta, by walking through the slums of Kolkata, by standing at the tomb of Mother Theresa, by observing the most beautiful and majestic animals in the kingdom, by immersing myself in sunsets and places of such profound beauty, and by standing in front of Masterpieces that have taken me back in time and taken my breath away. My time on the Camino and at Motherhouse renewed my faith and commitment to living a prayer filled life. I have said hundreds of "Hail Mary's" as I toiled up a particularly difficult hill, was lost and didn't know where to go, or felt so homesick for my kids I wanted to cry. It is this one quote that gives me all the strength I need to live my life: "You shall love the Lord your God with all your heart, with all your soul, and with all your mind".  Matt 23:37.  This is the pure and simple answer to have the most amazing life. To me, without this, I am nothing.
 **LAUGH** There were times where I laughed so hard my stomache hurt and my eyes spilled tears of joy. Arlene, Francis, Laura, Les, Eric, Sue, Terry, Stephanie, Steph, Linnea, Jess, Foxy, Gen, Richard, Ruth, Rachel, Nancy..to name a few. I thank you for laughing out loud with me. A good deep belly laugh is like medicine and there is nothing quite like it. I will remember with love all the people I've met and spent time with laughing, talking, eating, drinking, sharing. I pray I will see you all again someday. And if I don't, know that you will never be forgotten.

 A year of travel. A gift worth more than all the money I have or will ever have. Experiences that cannot be surpassed or repeated. Beautiful people I will never forget. Lessons that can be learned in no other way. An acute and growing awareness for those who struggle, where I do not. The observance of how cultures and customs shape the world. That no matter the colour of our skin or the language that we speak we are all People of God, whether we believe it or not. My pilgrimage has come to an end. Now, I must use the experiences to continue to have the most precious and blessed life. To live my life with passion and purpose and to fill it with love and beauty. To manage the stress and challenges that come my way with dignity, ease and grace. I will always remember the words of the Franciscan monk at La Faba and his special pilgrim blessing: "If you go home and merely tell stories about your Camino, you haven't really done the Camino. You have to change something about yourself, something about your life, and keep it with you always". I ponder how I have changed. My attitude to happiness and what that means to me. My ability to trust that all will work out the way it's meant to. My deepened sense of understanding and awareness of others. My purpose is unclear but I trust it will be revealed in time and I pray that I do not get pulled into the inertia and stagnation that life can sometimes be. I will continue to enrich my life every day.....Life, with all it's challenges, joy, beauty, sadness and pain. I will not take it for granted, no matter what. 

 A big theme for me this year was moving out of my comfort zone. I have a huge fear of getting lost and have always been intimidated by big cities. I do not have a good sense of direction, yet I have navigated my way through some of the biggest and busiest airports and metro stations in the world - London, Paris, Madrid, Barcelona, Dublin, Manchester, Casablanca, Addis Ababa, Nairobi, New Delhi, Kolkata, Dubai, Liverpool! And all by myself!  I have gained great confidence and feel brave and proud. I have been on dozens of flights and trains, slept in countless beds, with countless people! I have not driven a car in all this time. I have travelled the world. I have seen so much. I have lived life fully. I  have known true freedom. The more I see of the world, the more I realise there is still so much I haven't yet seen. Perhaps it is not an ending at all, but merely another beginning. So if this is what it's like to be 50, then I only have one more thing to say: BRING  IT ON!

Top twenty Travel Tips

Travelling is at times tiring, confusing, difficult, hot, cold, boring, irritating and terribly uncomfortable. I have never been happier. I am an intrepid traveller. A true explorer. I have learned many things, some of which are spiritual, physical, personal, or just plain practical. 

Here are my Top Twenty Travel Tips:

 1. Never travel anywhere without tissue. Ever.
2. When they say get to the airport 2 hours before....they mean it.
3. Always talk to strangers. 
4. Pack light. Then take out more.
5. If you're not sure, ask someone.
6. Give to the poor.
7. Never leave anything behind that can't be used by someone else
8. Learn how to wash your clothes by hand
9. Be polite, no matter what the situation. You are representing your country.
10. Use the tourist information offices. You're a tourist.
11.  Send postcards.
12. Take a business card from the place you are staying when you go out for the day.
13. Spend your money on experiences rather than stuff
14. Take pictures but commit to memory as well
15. Sleep with your passport. Shower with it if necessary.
16. Eat the local food.
17. Move your body every day.
18. Conserve water, use it wisely.
19. Try to speak a few words in the language of the country you are in.
20.  Write about your travels

The Scilly Isles

....pronounced "Silly" Isles. We decided to take this once in a lifetime (for me) opportunity to visit the Scilly Isles, specifically Tescoe Isle. My first time ever in a helicopter, it seemed a fitting way to experience my last inter-continental flight before going home. We had a cup of tea at the waiting area and then were led out to the waiting, and very noisy, helicopter. I must admit, I was excited! I kept thinking of Robbie who used to go to work everyday like this when he was firefighting. The view from the helicopter was incredible as you fly much lower than in an airplane. The coastline was wild and rugged and so interesting to watch the waves crashing against the gnarly cliffs. It was a rough day, very windy, but a smooth ride nevertheless. The helipad on Trescoe was very simple and since the island is a no-car zone, we walked the short distance to our first stop, the sub tropical Trescoe Abby Gardens, host to thousands of exotic plants . Finding myself enraptured in this place of such profound beauty, engulfed in the trees, shrubs, flowers, birds and insects, I was thoroughly engaged for the next couple of hours. We walked the lush criss-cross grid of pathways amidst succulents, towering palm trees and lipstick red flame trees and hundreds of flowering plants and shrubs from all over the world.  Many of these plants would not stand a chance on the Cornish mainland less than 30 miles away but by building tall wind breaks Augustus Smith channelled the weather up and over the network of walled enclosures that he built around the priory ruins. This tropical garden is home to species from 80 countries and indeed a treasure to behold! Next a walk around the island to the castle ruins and the only pub "The New Inn" for lunch - a half pint of fresh prawns, salad and, of course, a beer. We got drowned in a torrential rain storm on the way back but I have learned to shake it off and enjoy myself despite the unpredictable English weather. The sun came out and we had a cup of tea in the garden where the birds were so tame they were actually sitting on Terry's knee! Delightful! We saw a golden pheasant, one of the most colourful birds I've ever been close to, and one I've never even heard of before. It was an amazing day, one I shall never forget. The next day we headed back to Liverpool, a long 8 hour drive and I sincerely hope to go back to Cornwall one day. In fact, if I could, I'd live there. Still need to find that farmer to marry though.....!

Land's End

We woke up to pouring rain today. The plan was forTerry and I to drop Sue off at her course and then carry on to Lands End, England's most westerly point and do a coastal walk. I was really excited and I packed my bag with all the necessary items. I knew I'd get wet, but I didn't mind. I was primed to see the beauty of this rugged coastline I had read so much about. When we got to Lands End, it was so windy I began to have second thoughts only from the safety aspect. We went into the coffee shop had a coffee and then I decided I wanted to go regardless of the weather. Terry did as well though he only wanted to walk to Sennen, a mile away. I wasn't thrilled about walking alone on a treacherous path but once we got going it seemed to settle down a bit and was fine. We parted ways at Sennen and after meeting and getting information from a very friendly woman named "Irish Annie"at the National Trust office (an old fort overlooking the sea),  I carried on nearly to Port Cornwall where it veered off to the small town of St Just.  Battered into dramatic shapes by the Atlantic winds and waves, jagged cliffs rise from the wild waters. It took me about three hours and it was stunningly beautiful....words can't describe it. I had walked about an hour and a half when I reached a high rocky bit where the path seemed to end rather abruptly. I found myself peering over the cliff edge looking down a rock face to the sea below. I had no choice but to turn back. When I did, I met three guys who were headed that way and I told them they wouldn't be able to pass. Just then, another guy came down heading in the opposite direction of which we were going and told us we just had to scramble over the rocks and we would be okay. So that's what we did and my new friends Ian (Groggy), Mark, and Aidy (Adrian) found themselves with a new walking partner. They were very kind and two of them were heading to Port Cornwall as well so it made sense to walk together. When we got to the sign that said St Just I decided to leave them and head there to meet Terry. I invited them to join us for a pint at the Kings Arms Pub, which they did. It had started raining heavily and the last 45 minutes was torrential. Luckily the pub had a roaring fire going and we warmed up rather nicely, hung our clothes in front of the fire and had a good time. The owner of the pub was doing a quiz night and practiced on us...so much fun! We said goodbye, another couple of people that will remain in my memories of this amazing journey.

St. Ives

"...I could fill pages remembering one thing after another. All together made the summer at St. Ives the best beginning to life imaginable." --- Virginia Woolf

St. Ives

Barbara Hepworth

Barbara Hepworth

 Touted the 'Best UK Seaside Town' from the British Travel Awards in both 2010 and 2011, St Ives was incorporated by Royal Charter in 1639. It has become renowned for its number of local artists, most notably sculptor Barbara Hepworth whose studio and sculpture garden are a must-see. The Barbara Hepworth Museum and her sculpture garden are the responsibility of Tate St Ives. It was the wish of the late sculptor to leave her work on public display in perpetuity. St Ives is situated on the shore of St Ives Bay, its harbour sheltered by Smeaton's pier. Close to the harbour, its streets are narrow and uneven while its wider streets are in the newer parts of the town on rising ground. We parked the car in a car park up a steep street and made our way down to the pier. The town has four beaches and because of its oceanic climate has some of the mildest winters and warmest summers in Britain making it a popular holiday destination for the Brits. Anyway, I did love this place...it was a happy place filled with young people, dogs and for some reason, lots of pregnant women! Needless to say, it is an very special place and though I felt like a tourist, it was a place I wanted to return to, so I did. We decided to take one of the little boats to "Seal Island" which turned out to be a sunny and spectacular cruise along the beautiful coastline and though there weren't many seals, the ones that were there were delightful. Back on dry land we strolled along the promenade and ate a Cornish pasty, the local specialty. We meandered through the streets lined with little gift shops, bakeries, pasty shops and a butcher shop where we bought delicious lamb chops that we bbq'd for tea that night. It has become our custom, call it a Holiday Habit, to stop in at a pub for a pint before going back to the cottage to cook dinner. On one such occasion I went to the bar and ordered a cider for Sue, a pint of Betty Stoggs for Terry, and a half pint for myself. The barman asked me if I was sure I only wanted a half to which I replied "go on then, I'll have a whole". I've been here long enough to know the lingo....a pint, I should have said. By the time I go home, I'll have it down and then will have to go back to saying....uh oh, what is it that we say in Canada? Now I'm really confused. Better quit drinking beer for a while!