Santo Domingo

I left Ciruena early in order to get to Santo Domingo in plenty of time to tour the church museum and possibly go to Mass. I arrived at 8:30, had a coffee and was able to attend mass in the little chapel beside the church. Afterwards, I went to the entrance to the cathedral museum to find, to my delight, it was open. I spent two hours learning about Santo Domingo and his dedication and devotion to improving the physical route for the pilgrims. Born in 1019, he came from humble surroundings and is said to have been a giant among men. He built a pilgrim hospital, now a Parador, and a church which has evolved over the years into a cathedral. Both are situated in the Plaza del Santo, and like many religious structures have been renovated over the centuries, therefore combining many architectural styles. I was so happy to have had the opportunity to wander the winding streets of this ancient town. Just before I made my way back onto the trail, I decided to get some cash out of one of the ATM's on the main street. I happened to run into three other pilgrims I had met the day before and was chatting with them. I got my money and off I went, wishing them "buen Camino"!

My intent was to walk to walk to Viloria de la Rioja where I had heard there was a really great alburgue. I passed Casteldelgado for the last 5km to Viloria del a Rioja, population 70. When I arrived an hour later, I found myself in a ghost town. The tiny village had only one place to stay....which turned out to be closed for the weekend. Rotten luck for me as by then I was tired, my feet ached and I was ready to stop. There was nothing else to do but to turn around and go back to Casteldelgado where I ended up staying in a hotel by the side of the road. What I didn't know was that it was a truck stop and frequented mostly by men. I had dinner in the restaurant and made my way up to my room only to find I was being followed by a spaniard with ulterior intentions! Apparently it is not unheard of for "ladies of the evening" to frequent these places. Somehow I must have pulled off this look but heaven only knows how he could reach that conclusion given my pilgrim appearance. Despite all this, I had a good sleep in a room by myself in a real bed with sheets and a shower with real towels. Lovely. When I woke up, I decided not to have breakfast but to just make a start. I went to reception to pay my bill, opened my wallet to find that my bank card was not there. I remembered at that point how I was talking with the pilgrims at the ATM in Sto. Domingo and realised I must have left it there. I did not panic (what is the point in that?) I went into the bar and ordered a coffee and to ponder what I should do about this. What were the chances that someone would have turned it in to the bank? Pretty good, I thought as it is exactly what I would do if I saw a bank card left behind. I decided to find out if there was a bus back to Sto. Domingo and see. I had to wait an hour for the bus but it took only 10 min to get there (it would have taken 2-3 hours to walk). I got to the bank, and while I was waiting in line, I prayed that my journey was not for nothing, but knew whatever happened, I would be fine. My turn. I asked the man if he spoke English, he said no. I attempted to explain why I was there and he asked me if my name was Jennifer. I was thrilled! I showed him my passport and he handed over my bank card. Back to the bus station to find out that I had 2 hours to wait so I went back to the cathedral for a quick visit, had a cafe con leche in the sunshine, and got the bus back to Casteldelgado, where I had begun that morning. All was well. Yesterday is history, tomorrow a mystery and today is a gift - that is why itis called the present -- unknown

Ciruena (pronounced: theer-wen-ya)

Whenever you stay at a really nice alburgue, it seems inevitable that the next one will be.......interesting, to say the least. When I got to this town, it was as if there was no one living there. I followed the signs to the hostel, and after walking 26k, was really hoping it was open. It was. The hospitalier spoke no English and it appeared I was the first guest. He barked out the rules, in Spanish of course and I had to work out a vague translation - he pointed to the toilets and said "pee pee and po po". Okay, he was trying to communicate..it was hard not to laugh. Dinner was at 8:00 for 7€ and breakfast was included in the 13€ fee. I looked around at the simple, but clean surroundings and decided to stay. Just then, Burt from Tazmania, who i met on the road earlier, came in and I was relieved to know I wasn't alone (this was before I knew how much he snores!). Anyway, I asked the man if I could get something to eat...was there a cafe/bar in town? He shouted at me, pointing at his watch and holding up 4 fingers, indicating the bar closed at that time. It was around 2:30. He shouted again, and started pushing me towards the door and I deduced that I wouldn't be able to get food past 4:00. Of course, I took his advice and Burt and I headed to the bar for a salad and beer. By the time we got back, 11 more Peregrinos had joined us and everyone was settling in. I had a shower that started out warm and ended up freezing and I never fully recovered as there was no heat in the place! At 8:00 we were all called into the tiny kitchen where the man had made us a fine stew made of lentils and chorizo. It was really good and the portion was huge. Fruit for dessert and then we were shuffled off to bed. I shared a room with Burt (the Tazmanian devil snorer) and two delightful women from the Netherlands. Turns out Burt was born there so they all spoke Dutch and had a great time though I don't have a clue what they were talking about. I put in my earplugs and hoped for the best. Burt kept us all awake half the night! Breakfast - tostada and cafe con leche was at 7:00 am promptly, and we all made our way out into the crisp, cold morning. It was a beautiful 5km to Santo Domingo where I planned to spend the morning before walking the next 17km

Ventosa

So far, I've met some lovely people: Bill from USA, a very kind man; Kate and Jude from Australia; a really nice couple from Germany; a Spaniard who speaks English about as well as i speak spanish but we somehow communicated; and Ceaser from India, the first Indian I've met here.  I decided to stay at a private Albergue for my second night and it is very nice and very clean. I haven't washed my clothes in over a week and there is a washing machine so I was delighted. Being a Sunday, everything is closed so I couldn't cook but shared pasta with Kate and Jude at the Cafe Bar. It was adequate. All is well.

Camino Again!

After spending a week in Valdelavilla, I hitched a ride to Soria with one of the Spanish participants. My intention was to board the bus and head to Logrono that day. I was so exhausted, I decided to stay one night in Soria and then get the bus to Logrono the next day. After sleeping 12 hours (!!!) I am now in Logrono, ready to start walking tomorrow.  It is a very different scene from last fall, weather-wise. It's quite cool, which I don't mind at all, but it is raining. In all the time I walked last fall, I cant remember even one drop of rain. Let's hope the weather improves over the next day or two. My intention for doing this is partly to walk the bit that I had to take the bus through because of my blisters, but also because I have signed up to walk Hadrians Wall starting May 4th and after spending a lot of time in countries where it is difficult to exercise, feel the need to do some training. I really love the Rioja area and I am looking forward to spending some time exploring Santa Domingo and other villages where there are some monasteries and places off the beaten track which are worth seeing. I plan to walk about a week and this should help get me and my feet ready for my next walk.  Buen Camino!

Soria

I had a great week in Valdelavilla, a once deserted Spanish village, and, once again have said goodbye to some really fantastic people I met there. I must say, I'm a little tired - who would think that talking all day long would be so exhausting?! The place was beautiful, very remote though with limited Internet and no cell coverage. In a way, I quite liked it though because it was so quiet and peaceful.  Valdelavilla, is a picturesque hamlet tucked in the mountainous province of Soria and consisting of about 20 hand built stone cottages. The official language is English and the village is used almost exclusively by VaughanTown, an English Immersion program based in Madrid. There was a program director named Marissa and an MC/entertainment director named Pete who were both extremely competent and who made the week a very fun experience. We participated in plays, presentations, singing and dancing along with one-to-one sessions with the Spaniards. It was a very well organised scheduled program and we were kept busy but had ample free time to enjoy walking in the steep mountain paths. We laughed a lot and got to know each other quite well in this tiny remote village. The weather was, at times cold and windy, but there were some beautiful sunny days as well and there is just nothing like sitting outside in the spanish sunshine with a cafe con leche or a cold cervesa! The food was amazing....plentiful and traditionally Spanish, with not a single French fry in sight! I learned early on to make sure one of my courses was a salad as the portions were huge. Even though it was a bit like working, it was very enjoyable and I would recommend it for anyone who finds themself in Spain looking for an fantastic experience. I might even do it myself again someday. I am now on my own in the city of Soria and will board a bus to Logrono tomorrow where I will walk for a week along the camino trail. I need to walk and can think of no better place since I am so close to it, and I need to prepare for my Hadrians Wall trek as soon as I get back to England in May. I met a really lovely woman named Sue who lives in Ormskirk who I am looking forward to meeting up with in May in Liverpool. My friend Stephanie from New York is going to England for a week in June and I will meet up with her and Liz in Yorkshire for a couple of days ( I met these two women in Kenya) There seems to be no end to the possibilities....  I must say I am looking forward to spending time at "home" in Liverpool with Sue and Terry. I have become so close to them and find I miss them when I'm away. We are planning a trip to Cornwall in June which will be a great way to end my time with them.

Valdelavilla

I'm literally in the middle of nowhere in Spain, participating in an English immersion week for Spaniards who want to improve their conversation skills.. My job is to talk to people. In exchange I get my room and board paid for in a beautiful villa in northern Spain for a week. Not a bad deal. I have booked my flight back to Liverpool for May 2nd so that I have another two weeks here and so far, have made no firm plans. One option is to do some walking on the Camino trail since I am only steps away from it. Another option is to go to Portugal and walk the trail there. I do want to visit Barcelona for a few days and learned of a cycling tour of the city which I would really love to do. There are a few people here who drove to this place and have offered to drop me off somewhere and that also intrigues me. It would be an adventure to just get dropped off in some obscure place and see what happens!
In the meantime, I'm hanging out with 7 Spaniards who are becoming proficient at speaking English and 14 english speaking Anglos from Canada, USA, Scotland, England, New Zealand, Korea, and India! The Indian fellow, Manish, is conducting a lesson on Bollywood dancing and somehow I have found myself signed up! We have to give a performance to the rest of the group.....I wonder at my profound inability to say "no". Some things never seem to change.
I am loving being back in Spain....it is such a wonderful country - so beautiful, so rich in the culture. The food is great and I am trying to remember the Spanish I learned last fall, even though I am not allowed to speak a word of it. I am committed to learning Spanish when I go home and will enrol in a proper class, possibly when I move to the coast.
Despite all these wonderful things I'm doing, a part of me is still in Kolkata and in some ways, I wish I was still there. I think it means that someday, I am meant to go back. His will be done.....
In the meantime, I shall go and practice my dancing with the other 11 people who signed up for the big performance tonight!
I am making a list of unforgettable experiences and I think this will be one of them!

Scotland

Before I left for Africa, my aunt Angela and cousin Gemma decided to go up to Scotland where my other cousin Ruth and her family -  husband Roland, and children Mabel, Barney, and Monty were going to be glamping for the week. They asked me if I'd like to join them...of course I would!! 
The drive up from Liverpool through Carlisle to Edinburgh took about 5 hours....a long drive by British standards. We got to the town of North Berwick where we were met with great warmth by Ruth and her family. They are staying at a farm nearby and "glamping" in a tent/cabin on the farm. It's absolutely beautiful here! The farm is within walking distance to the North sea and it goes on for miles, so lots of great long walks.
It is so strange being in a country where everything is so green and there are more sheep than people! It is lambing season now and there are hundreds of adorable lambs gambolling in the fields and feeding off their mothers. I now understand the phrase "lamb of God", they are so innocent and vulnerable and devastatingly CUTE!
At the campsite the farmers have put pens which house lambs, goats, chickens, bunnies and geese. The children are having the best time taking care of the animals, feeding them and letting them out to play. I kept thinking of my kids and how much they would have loved this when they were little.
Long walks on the beach followed by great meals (why does everything taste better when you're camping?) and sitting around the fire. Lots of games of rummicub and arguing over the rules, a seemingly necessary aspect to family games nights! Roland and I and the children went on a bike ride - it was a gloriously sunny day and I so enjoyed the fresh air and exercise.
We had a wonderful Chinese meal in the town of North Berwick, compliments of my Auntie Angela. It's a cute little village and she and Gemma are staying in a fancy hotel by one of the many golf courses in the area. I sometimes wish I was a golfer, and I remember with great fondness the time when my dad and I went to Scotland and I was his caddy. Such great memories. 
On our last evening, Roland treated us to a great pub meal and when i saw that there was sticky treacle pudding on the menu, i decided on a simple bowl of soup with my main course, dessert. Unimaginably delicious!
On the last day, Ruth, Mabel and I booked a hour of horseback riding  with the farm down the road. I was really nervous but the woman, Carole, was great. Stern, but great. I told her the last time I rode something it was a camel in India, and it wasn't very comfortable! She looked at me with slight disdain and said horses are different. I knew then that I was dealing with a serious and devout Horse Lover and I needed to show respect. It was a magical experience and "Flame" and I got along quite well, although Ruth could tell you a different story....! Mabel has had some riding lessons so was a pro and had the distinct pleasure of being allowed to gallop on the beach which was very exciting for her...and her Mum. I was just happy that I got to a trot and didn't fall off the horse! It was a really fun experience and I loved it. The only down-side was that I forgot that i am very allergic to horse hair and neglected to take an antihistamine before getting on it. At the end of it, my eyes were swollen, itchy and red, I was sneezing and streaming, but it was still worth it!
I had such an amazing time with this lovely family and have fallen in love with the three children. I will see them again before I go home....but wonder how I will do without them when I am far away in Canada.
Back on the road to Liverpool to have a meal and visit with Sue and Terry before my flight to Madrid tomorrow.
More adventures to come!