I left very early this morning, arriving in Bahar Dair around 9:30am. I had arranged a driver and a guide (Kindu) to take me to the Blue Nile Falls and the monasteries on the peninsula. He greeted me with enthusiasm and since I was his only customer, took good care to ensue I had a good experience. We drove through the city to the lake where my hotel was; I dropped off my suitcase and off we went. It was a very hot day and the road was dusty and rough. We passed many people on their way to market, miles away. The men, draped in the traditional gabi carrying a stick across their shoulders, their thin spindly legs like sticks. The women, draped in their traditional dresses and natelas, carrying huge bundles on their heads, invariably a child strapped to their backs. We complain when we have to walk anywhere...I am struck by the searing contrast of my life.
The journey was hot and dusty, the road very rough. We passed a garbage dump with flocks of buzzards perched heavily on the branches of the trees, somehow managing to look majestic, waiting to dive down to eat something fleshy and dead. To keep them at bay, the men started burning the rubbish, acrid smoke filling the air.
The jaquaranda trees were in full bloom, the branches heavy with the mauve blossoms, like puffs of purple smoke standing out against the dry, brown landscape. I wanted to get closer so I could smell them, wondering if they even have a scent.
We drove through the village where the market took place, a busy, bustling hive of activity. Children running around, barefoot and ragged, goats and donkeys sometimes making it impossible to pass. We eventually got to the place where we met the local guide and began walking towards the falls. It was a moderate climb up into the hills, very hot and dusty. At one point I found myself thinking - here I am, in the middle of a strange country with two men I don't know, trusting that they will take me where I want to go. Again, as in so many times on my travels, I felt I was taken care of. The last bit was to cross a suspension bridge high above the rocky river bed, dry now until the rains come. I am terrified of heights but managed to cross by looking up and holding the hand of my trusty guide.
I knew that being the dry season the Blue Nile Falls would be underwhelming, but the landscape and beauty of the area was spectacular. I saw where the Blue Nile feeds into Lake Tana.
The next day we took a boat across the lake to the peninsula and onto what felt like an unspoiled remote island. Again, the warmth and smiles were so beguiling and I find myself pulled into the life there. I saw monkeys swinging and playing in the trees, tasted the juice from the ripe coffee beans, bought a small painting from a local artist who uses natural colours from the plants and flowers, took traditional, ceremonial tea, and had a tour of the 14th century church. When i think of all the magnificent churches i have seen along the way, I felt more at home in this humble and well loved church. This island was paradise to me and I am once again struck by the simplicity and appreciation for the environment the people live in. I want to live there!
Back to Addis where I was picked up at the airport by Ray and the boys. We had a lovely day lounging by the pool at the Sheraton and then an amazing last night dinner at an authentic Ethiopian restaurant which was so good, in fact best meal in Ethiopia. Saying goodbye to this little family was difficult for me as I grew very close to them all in the week we spent together. I think of them with great fondness and hope it won't be too long till I see them all again.
I wish I had more time to visit Gondor and Lalibela but I guess this just means I'll have to come back some day.
Saturday, 10 March 2012
Friday, 2 March 2012
Ethiopian Coffee Ceremony
I had read about this and wondered if I would be able to experience it, which, to my great delight was arranged for me by Al on Monday afternoon. Almez had prepared the little customery table laid with cups, spoons and coffee pot and placed it on the floor. Beside the tiny table, a small hibachi heating coals with frankincense, giving off that familiar smell reminding me of the incense in church. She sat on a tiny stool and took a small, flat pan and began to roast the green coffee beans over the coals. Once the beans were sufficiently roasted and we could smell their rich, dark, smokey odour, she took them off the heat and put them into a mortar and ground them with the stone pestle into a rich, black dust. She spooned it delicately into the narrow spout of the clay coffee pot and added hot water. We drank two tiny cups each, without sugar or milk. It was so thick and full of flavour, nothing like what I drink at home. Coffee is one of the major exports in Ethiopia, the arabica bean being the most widely known. Al told me that when you share coffee in this traditional way, you would go to the home of one of your neighbours and everyone would sit on the floor, talking and sharing the gossip and stories of the week. Popcorn is served with the coffee, a strange combination, but one that works quite well, I thought.
Addis Ababa
Addis Ababa is a busy, bustling city where beggars, tuk tuks, and street children clamour for your attention - I felt as I have felt in other places in Africa, overwhelmed with the sight of ragged dirty children, polio cripples, and people relieving themselves in public. Despite all this, I never felt any threat to my personal safety other than being a passenger in a vehicle...the driving is crazy!
Alemu spent the past couple of days taking me to the museums and art galleries in Addis. We first went to the National Museum where the skeletal remains of Lucy, a hominid woman who lived about 3.2million years ago are kept. Ethiopians refer to her as "Dinquinesh", meaning "thou art wonderful". Although not the oldest skeleton ever found, the finding was significant in that it proved that humans were walking upright 2.5 million years earlier than previously thought. I found it all so fascinating.
We visited the university which was once the palace of the Emperor Haile Selasi. Inside, the museum does a wonderful job of showing the life and history of the Ethiopian people describing the rituals of birth, marriage and death as well as what happens when young boys and girls come of age. Colourful artwork from the 16th and 17th century depicting religious stories from the bible, painted with natural inks that were once vibrant and rich. In another area there were vestments and jewels once worn by the deacons and high priests of the orthodox church. They were kept in dusty glass cases, a mere padlock keeping them safe. I couldn't help compare these "riches" with the ostentatious blatancy of the crown jewels and the many priceless accoutrements with their high and technical security. The contrast was profound.
Alemu spent the past couple of days taking me to the museums and art galleries in Addis. We first went to the National Museum where the skeletal remains of Lucy, a hominid woman who lived about 3.2million years ago are kept. Ethiopians refer to her as "Dinquinesh", meaning "thou art wonderful". Although not the oldest skeleton ever found, the finding was significant in that it proved that humans were walking upright 2.5 million years earlier than previously thought. I found it all so fascinating.
We visited the university which was once the palace of the Emperor Haile Selasi. Inside, the museum does a wonderful job of showing the life and history of the Ethiopian people describing the rituals of birth, marriage and death as well as what happens when young boys and girls come of age. Colourful artwork from the 16th and 17th century depicting religious stories from the bible, painted with natural inks that were once vibrant and rich. In another area there were vestments and jewels once worn by the deacons and high priests of the orthodox church. They were kept in dusty glass cases, a mere padlock keeping them safe. I couldn't help compare these "riches" with the ostentatious blatancy of the crown jewels and the many priceless accoutrements with their high and technical security. The contrast was profound.
Tuesday, 28 February 2012
First few days in Ethiopia
Since I don't have access to regular Internet, I am writing a diary on my ipad and then putting it in when I get access, so you will get more than one day at a time. Right now, I'm sitting in the airport in Addis Ababa waiting for my flight to Bahar Dar.
Here we go....
Ethiopia Day 1
After a very long journey, I arrived about noon in Addis Ababa and was met at the airport by my cousin's husband Alimu. It is not often that I am met by someone and was grateful not to have to find my way around another busy airport or arrange a taxi fare in a language I don't speak. It was a long journey and I was tired - I did not sleep on the plane, and very happy to see Rachel, Al, and the boys Theo and Nathanial.
On the journey from Manchester to Dubai, I sat beside the nicest young man from Glasgow. It was a fairly long flight and we had some nice chats. I love the Scottish accent, it is perhaps, my favourite. He is a pilot and knew all the idiosyncraties of getting what you want in economy! He reminded me of my sons and i found myself missing my boys. What a sweet guy he was, helping a woman with her 2 little ones off the plane and into the craziness of Dubai airport where everyone is connecting to some other destination. I had to make my connection so was scurried off to my gate. My gate was #136 and when I saw the sign saying "gate 101-240", I knew there was a possibility I wouldn't make my connecting flight. Running was not an option because the airport was so crowded. I hurried as best I could and made it just in time.
It was Nathanials birthday on the 22nd, same day as my Robbie, and I brought a suitcase full of presents for him and of course, luxuries from England - sausages, bacon, and cheese!
I woke up this morning, for a split second wondering where I was. It was dark and I lay there and listened to the sounds of a city awakening, in particular, the soothing and monotonous Muslim call to prayer.
Addis is the national Capitol of Africa, much like Brussels is the capitol of the European Union. The language is Amhera and the currency is the birr. Im finding it confusing trying to convert from birr to pound to canadian dollar.
My cousin and her family live in a house provided by the school. It is modest, but large and comfortable. They employ two people - a maid named Almez and a gate keeper called Habtamu who watches over the house while they are not here and is given a room in the lower part of the house. As in other African countries, there is a large section of desperately poor people living in slums and then the middle class people who are fortunate enough to have a house, a job and perhaps a car. These two people that Ray and Al employ are very grateful for these jobs.
When I arrived, there was a birthday party for Nathanial and, as at home, it is attended by the parents as well so I was able to meet some of the other expats who work with Ray and Al.
Day 2
Back in sandals and a beautifully warm climate. My body is happily soaking up the rays of the intense sun and i am a little sunburnt despite sunscreen. Last night we went to Ray and Al's "local" and enjoyed an evening sitting on plastic stools outside drinking beer and watching the scene on the busy night street. Theo and Nathanial brought their latest game gadgets and were as good as gold. Once again, I am conscience of my skin colour and am regarded with curiosity. I have learned to reign in my natural friendliness and not make eye contact as it promotes people, mostly men, to take advantage and pester me unabashedly. This morning Ray went to work - she teaches high school - and they occasionally have school on a Saturday morning. Al and I walked to the school as the boys had a football game there. He showed me around the school which was impressive.
Day 3
Today we woke up with no water. We noticed yesterday the water pressure was low. Apparently a water main burst on the East side of Addis affecting the residential area where Ray and Al live. There is is a water source near their house and we noticed many people from the slums carrying jerry cans and queing up in long lines to get water. The Sheraton was closed so we couldn't go there and I must admit after a day in the hot sun and the dusty dry streets, I'm feeling a bit grubby. Such is life in a developing country.
I booked a two day trip to Bahad Dair in the north which I will fly to.
Being only 7 degrees from the equator, there is almost exactly 12 hours of daylight and 12 hours of darkness. The change from dark to light, and vice versa, happens very quickly. It is like this year round.
Here we go....
Ethiopia Day 1
After a very long journey, I arrived about noon in Addis Ababa and was met at the airport by my cousin's husband Alimu. It is not often that I am met by someone and was grateful not to have to find my way around another busy airport or arrange a taxi fare in a language I don't speak. It was a long journey and I was tired - I did not sleep on the plane, and very happy to see Rachel, Al, and the boys Theo and Nathanial.
On the journey from Manchester to Dubai, I sat beside the nicest young man from Glasgow. It was a fairly long flight and we had some nice chats. I love the Scottish accent, it is perhaps, my favourite. He is a pilot and knew all the idiosyncraties of getting what you want in economy! He reminded me of my sons and i found myself missing my boys. What a sweet guy he was, helping a woman with her 2 little ones off the plane and into the craziness of Dubai airport where everyone is connecting to some other destination. I had to make my connection so was scurried off to my gate. My gate was #136 and when I saw the sign saying "gate 101-240", I knew there was a possibility I wouldn't make my connecting flight. Running was not an option because the airport was so crowded. I hurried as best I could and made it just in time.
It was Nathanials birthday on the 22nd, same day as my Robbie, and I brought a suitcase full of presents for him and of course, luxuries from England - sausages, bacon, and cheese!
I woke up this morning, for a split second wondering where I was. It was dark and I lay there and listened to the sounds of a city awakening, in particular, the soothing and monotonous Muslim call to prayer.
Addis is the national Capitol of Africa, much like Brussels is the capitol of the European Union. The language is Amhera and the currency is the birr. Im finding it confusing trying to convert from birr to pound to canadian dollar.
My cousin and her family live in a house provided by the school. It is modest, but large and comfortable. They employ two people - a maid named Almez and a gate keeper called Habtamu who watches over the house while they are not here and is given a room in the lower part of the house. As in other African countries, there is a large section of desperately poor people living in slums and then the middle class people who are fortunate enough to have a house, a job and perhaps a car. These two people that Ray and Al employ are very grateful for these jobs.
When I arrived, there was a birthday party for Nathanial and, as at home, it is attended by the parents as well so I was able to meet some of the other expats who work with Ray and Al.
Day 2
Back in sandals and a beautifully warm climate. My body is happily soaking up the rays of the intense sun and i am a little sunburnt despite sunscreen. Last night we went to Ray and Al's "local" and enjoyed an evening sitting on plastic stools outside drinking beer and watching the scene on the busy night street. Theo and Nathanial brought their latest game gadgets and were as good as gold. Once again, I am conscience of my skin colour and am regarded with curiosity. I have learned to reign in my natural friendliness and not make eye contact as it promotes people, mostly men, to take advantage and pester me unabashedly. This morning Ray went to work - she teaches high school - and they occasionally have school on a Saturday morning. Al and I walked to the school as the boys had a football game there. He showed me around the school which was impressive.
Day 3
Today we woke up with no water. We noticed yesterday the water pressure was low. Apparently a water main burst on the East side of Addis affecting the residential area where Ray and Al live. There is is a water source near their house and we noticed many people from the slums carrying jerry cans and queing up in long lines to get water. The Sheraton was closed so we couldn't go there and I must admit after a day in the hot sun and the dusty dry streets, I'm feeling a bit grubby. Such is life in a developing country.
I booked a two day trip to Bahad Dair in the north which I will fly to.
Being only 7 degrees from the equator, there is almost exactly 12 hours of daylight and 12 hours of darkness. The change from dark to light, and vice versa, happens very quickly. It is like this year round.
Sunday, 19 February 2012
True Story
I was visiting my great aunt Winefride yesterday and she told me this story:
Winefride owns a little cottage in Wales and though she doesn't go there too often, she is good friends with one of her neighbours. Recently the neighbour, let's call her Jane - had a friend visiting her and this friend brought along her little dog. One day they decided to go for a walk in Anglesey. After a short time, they noticed that the little dog was not with them and since they were walking along the water, they became very worried. They called and called, but still no dog. Jane could see that her friend was becoming quite frantic so she suggested they split up and go in opposite directions. Her friend started off, frantically calling the dog. After a time, she came across a couple who were out for a stroll. She was so distraught that she didn't really look at them but asked if they had seen a little dog. They politely replied that they had not so she suggested she give them her number in case they did see him and could call her. She proceeded to give it to them and when she looked up, realised she was talking to Prince William and the Duchess of Cambridge! You can imagine her reaction! Within a few moments, and as if knowing he was missing out on something important, the dog showed up. It was reported that Kate was very affectionate with the dog and they all had a nice little chat!
Winefride owns a little cottage in Wales and though she doesn't go there too often, she is good friends with one of her neighbours. Recently the neighbour, let's call her Jane - had a friend visiting her and this friend brought along her little dog. One day they decided to go for a walk in Anglesey. After a short time, they noticed that the little dog was not with them and since they were walking along the water, they became very worried. They called and called, but still no dog. Jane could see that her friend was becoming quite frantic so she suggested they split up and go in opposite directions. Her friend started off, frantically calling the dog. After a time, she came across a couple who were out for a stroll. She was so distraught that she didn't really look at them but asked if they had seen a little dog. They politely replied that they had not so she suggested she give them her number in case they did see him and could call her. She proceeded to give it to them and when she looked up, realised she was talking to Prince William and the Duchess of Cambridge! You can imagine her reaction! Within a few moments, and as if knowing he was missing out on something important, the dog showed up. It was reported that Kate was very affectionate with the dog and they all had a nice little chat!
Saturday, 11 February 2012
Wood splitting, knitting and Mahjong
I think it's time for me to start travelling again....
I must say, after finally receiving my long-awaited UK passport, I was quite reluctant to let it go but I had to send it off with applications for my African and Indian visas. I leave on Feb 23rd for Ethiopia where I will visit my cousin Rachel, her husband Alimu, and their two little boys Theo and Nathanial. Ray and Al are both teachers and live in Addis Ababa, the Capitol, and, as luck would have it, it will be half term when I'm there so we will get to have a good visit and spend lots of time together. After eight days there I fly to Nairobi where I will do a safari into Tanzania. It is what they call an overland tour where you travel in these big army-like vehicles high off the ground, suitable for rough roads. After spending a few days in Kenya, we will load up with supplies and head out into the Serengeti where we will be staying in rustic tents and lodges. Apparently, the Ngorongoro Crater is where we will see many big game animals as they gather at the water hole at sunrise and sunset every day. After the Safari adventure, I head to India travelling from New Delhi to Kolkata where i hope to volunteer at Mother Theresa's orphanage. I fly back to Liverpool just in time for Easter and my Uncle Terry's 70th birthday.
I can't even begin to tell you how excited I am for this next adventure! I will have limited email access but will write and post when I can.
Thanks for reading!
I must say, after finally receiving my long-awaited UK passport, I was quite reluctant to let it go but I had to send it off with applications for my African and Indian visas. I leave on Feb 23rd for Ethiopia where I will visit my cousin Rachel, her husband Alimu, and their two little boys Theo and Nathanial. Ray and Al are both teachers and live in Addis Ababa, the Capitol, and, as luck would have it, it will be half term when I'm there so we will get to have a good visit and spend lots of time together. After eight days there I fly to Nairobi where I will do a safari into Tanzania. It is what they call an overland tour where you travel in these big army-like vehicles high off the ground, suitable for rough roads. After spending a few days in Kenya, we will load up with supplies and head out into the Serengeti where we will be staying in rustic tents and lodges. Apparently, the Ngorongoro Crater is where we will see many big game animals as they gather at the water hole at sunrise and sunset every day. After the Safari adventure, I head to India travelling from New Delhi to Kolkata where i hope to volunteer at Mother Theresa's orphanage. I fly back to Liverpool just in time for Easter and my Uncle Terry's 70th birthday.
I can't even begin to tell you how excited I am for this next adventure! I will have limited email access but will write and post when I can.
Thanks for reading!
Tuesday, 7 February 2012
Lake District - Take Two
On Sunday, the second anniversary of my Dad's passing, I went walking in the Lake District with Ruth, a longtime friend of my Aunty Angela. It had snowed heavily in the night, leaving a winter wonderland to play in. The sun was shining, the snow clung to the branches and the tops of the dry stone walls like frosting on a cake! We parked the car in a little village called Grasmere, home of the famous 18th century poet, William Wordsworth and headed out for a walk around the lake and up into the hills around it. I was so happy to be in the snow as it reminded me of home and we had a lovely day in the fresh air, stopping several times to enjoy the views and take photos. It was one of those perfect winter days when you just feel happy to be alive. Later, we had a wander through Wordsworth's home - Dove Cottage, where he lived with his wife and children and a couple of spinster sisters (single women were not allowed to live on their own in those days). It was a perfect day.
I leave you with a poem by William Wordsworth:
Composed By The Side Of Grasmere Lake 1806
CLOUDS, lingering yet, extend in solid bars
Through the grey west; and lo! these waters, steeled
By breezeless air to smoothest polish, yield
A vivid repetition of the stars;
Jove, Venus, and the ruddy crest of Mars
Amid his fellows beauteously revealed
At happy distance from earth's groaning field,
Where ruthless mortals wage incessant wars.
Is it a mirror?--or the nether Sphere
Opening to view the abyss in which she feeds
Her own calm fires?--But list! a voice is near;
Great Pan himself low-whispering through the reeds,
'Be thankful, thou; for, if unholy deeds
Ravage the world, tranquillity is here!'
---William Wordsworth
I leave you with a poem by William Wordsworth:
Composed By The Side Of Grasmere Lake 1806
CLOUDS, lingering yet, extend in solid bars
Through the grey west; and lo! these waters, steeled
By breezeless air to smoothest polish, yield
A vivid repetition of the stars;
Jove, Venus, and the ruddy crest of Mars
Amid his fellows beauteously revealed
At happy distance from earth's groaning field,
Where ruthless mortals wage incessant wars.
Is it a mirror?--or the nether Sphere
Opening to view the abyss in which she feeds
Her own calm fires?--But list! a voice is near;
Great Pan himself low-whispering through the reeds,
'Be thankful, thou; for, if unholy deeds
Ravage the world, tranquillity is here!'
---William Wordsworth
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