This few days I think will be the highlight of my trip to Morocco. When I decided to make Morocco my next trip, it was to experience the sandunes in the desert and for the opportunity to be in the high Atlas mountains and the past few days have delivered in spades! I'll start with the long drive from Fez to the edge of the desert. As we got closer to it, the landscape changed dramatically and it was a bit like driving through the prairies; not much to see and it seemed endless. At last we could see the reddish brown sand dunes off in the distance, and I began to feel the anticipation of a truly amazing experience. The plan was to park the van at an Auberge at the edge of the dunes and ride by camel about an hour to our campsite. We packed our sleeping bags and only the most necessary items like toothbrush and a change of clothes. There were no facilities so we wouldn't be able to bathe or wash. I have to admit, I was pretty excited at the idea of riding a camel. I know it sounds touristy, but I knew that we were going to a very rustic place, surrounded only by sand dunes and the sky, and that this would be something I will likely only experience once in my lifetime.
Getting onto the camel was interesting. The shepherds make them go down onto the ground (I love the way they fold their legs up underneath). You mount the camel and when they get up, they go up on their back legs first, thrusting you forward and then up on their front legs, thrusting you back! I thought I was going to fall off, but it seems they know what to do. It was about 3pm by the time we started off to the camp, making our way slowly into the dunes. In the hour it took to get there, I was enchanted by the beauty of the red sand, the curves and shapes of the dunes, made more interesting by the changing light and shadow. By the time we got to the camp, it was dusk and we dismounted our trusty steeds, where they gracefully settled themselves for the night.
The camp was indeed rustic. It was very cold and we were greeted by the men who were to cook for us that evening, welcoming us with a cup of Moroccan tea. It was pretty cold so we huddled around the table, sitting on mats around a low table. We were served chicken tajine and fruit, and of course, the delicious mint tea we have become so accustomed to. As in Canada, everything tastes so good when you are camping and you are ravenous! After dinner, we took the blankets off our camels to wrap ourselves in while we sat in the total darkness under a clear sky resplendent with bright stars. As is customary in Morocco, the drums came out and both the shepherds and the camp caretakers sat with us and we played and sang together under the night sky. At some point, I have no idea of the time, we made our way into our tents and went to sleep. It was magic. We arose at early light, in time to climb to the top of a sand dune to watch the sunrise, and then mounted our camels and made the journey back to the edge of the desert for breakfast at the auberge where we left our van.
Next stop, the High Atlas mountains....
Wednesday, 23 November 2011
Wednesday, 16 November 2011
Fez
Our tour guide today was a woman named Hakim. She is well known, and seemingly well loved in Fez. Apparently there are very few female guides here. She has a good sense of humor and is very knowledgeable. She and I had a good conversation at one point and she asked me if I was a famous person in Canada. I didn't dare ask her why she thought that!
First stop was the Royal Palace: 14th century, 82 hectares with huge rooms, shops, swimming pools and golf course. The entrance has 7 doors, seven floors, seven skies all with some significance to the seven days of the week.
The city of Fez was built in the 8th century and the medina is the largest imperial city in Morocco. It has the oldest university in the world. The medina is a veritable maze of streets, all interwoven and absolutely no pattern to the layout. It would be impossible to go into it without getting lost if you didn't have a proper guide! Inside, we visited a metalwork shop, a food market, Koramic school - no longer in use, a blacksmith, textile factory where they weave scarves and tablecloths, and a mosque. Later on we went to a ceramic factory and saw the entire process of how tiles are produced - from the clay to the wheels to the painting with dyes made from all natural ingredients: aloe Vera, saffron, indigo, henna, poppy flower, mint; to the kiln and finally, the finished products. It is all done by hand and the people who work there apprentice for 5-7 years before they become master craftsmen.
We drove up to the military site where there is a spectacular lookout point over the entire Medina. The entrance to the medina is a magnificent tiled archway, the outside in all blues signifying the national colour of Fez, and the inside in green, the colour of peace. We learned that 98% of the population is Muslim, almost all practicing.
We then visited a carpet factory inside the medina which was situated in one of the older homes in the city. Upstairs we saw one of the carpet weavers who painstakingly weave the carpets by hand. There are 1500+ members of the cooperative and the bigger ones take 8-10 months to complete. They are made from wool, cotton and silk. I learned that silk also comes from the aloe vera plant!
Lastly, we visited a tannery where they cure the skins of camel, goat, sheep, and cow to make clothing, purses, bags etc. I cannot begin to describe the smell of this place!
We had lunch at a restaurant in the Medina and it was one of the best ones yet! I can't get over the incredible flavours of the Moroccan cuisine. One of the specialties of Fez is pastille, which is meat pie. Very tasty.
Tomorrow we head for the Atlas Mountains. The weather has been quite cool and will get even cooler in the mountains. I hope I will be warm enough.
First stop was the Royal Palace: 14th century, 82 hectares with huge rooms, shops, swimming pools and golf course. The entrance has 7 doors, seven floors, seven skies all with some significance to the seven days of the week.
The city of Fez was built in the 8th century and the medina is the largest imperial city in Morocco. It has the oldest university in the world. The medina is a veritable maze of streets, all interwoven and absolutely no pattern to the layout. It would be impossible to go into it without getting lost if you didn't have a proper guide! Inside, we visited a metalwork shop, a food market, Koramic school - no longer in use, a blacksmith, textile factory where they weave scarves and tablecloths, and a mosque. Later on we went to a ceramic factory and saw the entire process of how tiles are produced - from the clay to the wheels to the painting with dyes made from all natural ingredients: aloe Vera, saffron, indigo, henna, poppy flower, mint; to the kiln and finally, the finished products. It is all done by hand and the people who work there apprentice for 5-7 years before they become master craftsmen.
We drove up to the military site where there is a spectacular lookout point over the entire Medina. The entrance to the medina is a magnificent tiled archway, the outside in all blues signifying the national colour of Fez, and the inside in green, the colour of peace. We learned that 98% of the population is Muslim, almost all practicing.
We then visited a carpet factory inside the medina which was situated in one of the older homes in the city. Upstairs we saw one of the carpet weavers who painstakingly weave the carpets by hand. There are 1500+ members of the cooperative and the bigger ones take 8-10 months to complete. They are made from wool, cotton and silk. I learned that silk also comes from the aloe vera plant!
Lastly, we visited a tannery where they cure the skins of camel, goat, sheep, and cow to make clothing, purses, bags etc. I cannot begin to describe the smell of this place!
We had lunch at a restaurant in the Medina and it was one of the best ones yet! I can't get over the incredible flavours of the Moroccan cuisine. One of the specialties of Fez is pastille, which is meat pie. Very tasty.
Tomorrow we head for the Atlas Mountains. The weather has been quite cool and will get even cooler in the mountains. I hope I will be warm enough.
Tuesday, 15 November 2011
Rabat, Meknes
We began the morning touring the 3rd largest mosque in the world - Hassan II Mosque. It was built in the early eighties and took 5 years and 30,000 labourers to build. Many modern day technologies including a high tech speaker system, sliding roof to let in light and air, and heated marble floors. The titanium doors weigh several tons and open electronically. At 200meters high, the minaret is the highest in the world. Apart from the Italian chandeliers, all the materials are Moroccan. Inside the mosque, I was overwhelmed with the sheer size of it - able to hold 80,000 people! I couldn't help but wonder what would you do if you really needed to go to the loo!? It truly was an amazing sight with it's polished marble floors and intricate hand made tile work.
Afterwards we got the train to Rabat, the Capitol city of Morocco, where we toured the Market and the centuries old Medina before moving on to Meknes, a 10th century city founded by the Berber tribe of the Meknassis. We arrived in time to eat dinner and get to our hotel to sleep before spending the day there.
The first stop was the Hari es-Souani, the granaries that the King built for his 12,000 horses over a thousand years ago. It is basically in ruins except for the first few vaults which have been restored. I find it fascinating that they could control temperature, direct and regulate the flow of water in these massive buildings so long ago without any technology and using the power of animals and rudimentary tools. After that we walked to the mausoleum of Moulay Ismail. Beautiful and peaceful.
Another wander through a very large, very busy, and very colourful market where I bought some frankincense and amber. The meat section was interesting and made me swear off meat until lunchtime where I ate a camel burger. When in Rome....as they say!
After lunch, which was delicious by the way, we took a bus to the Roman ruins on the way to our next stop, Fez. It is hard to fathom seeing floor tiles in intricate patterns that have been uncovered after 2000 years. Only a third of the ancient city has been unearthed and restored (started in the 1920's) but there are plans to uncover and rebuild the rest of it in time. Truly amazing.
The food in Morocco is sensational. The Moroccans really know what they're doing with spices. The tangines are fragrant with spices, tender meat and often cooked with figs, vegetables and couscous. A highlight today was eating a fresh pomegranate.
Just heading out to eat dinner. I'm told that lambs head is on the menu.....!
Afterwards we got the train to Rabat, the Capitol city of Morocco, where we toured the Market and the centuries old Medina before moving on to Meknes, a 10th century city founded by the Berber tribe of the Meknassis. We arrived in time to eat dinner and get to our hotel to sleep before spending the day there.
The first stop was the Hari es-Souani, the granaries that the King built for his 12,000 horses over a thousand years ago. It is basically in ruins except for the first few vaults which have been restored. I find it fascinating that they could control temperature, direct and regulate the flow of water in these massive buildings so long ago without any technology and using the power of animals and rudimentary tools. After that we walked to the mausoleum of Moulay Ismail. Beautiful and peaceful.
Another wander through a very large, very busy, and very colourful market where I bought some frankincense and amber. The meat section was interesting and made me swear off meat until lunchtime where I ate a camel burger. When in Rome....as they say!
After lunch, which was delicious by the way, we took a bus to the Roman ruins on the way to our next stop, Fez. It is hard to fathom seeing floor tiles in intricate patterns that have been uncovered after 2000 years. Only a third of the ancient city has been unearthed and restored (started in the 1920's) but there are plans to uncover and rebuild the rest of it in time. Truly amazing.
The food in Morocco is sensational. The Moroccans really know what they're doing with spices. The tangines are fragrant with spices, tender meat and often cooked with figs, vegetables and couscous. A highlight today was eating a fresh pomegranate.
Just heading out to eat dinner. I'm told that lambs head is on the menu.....!
Sunday, 13 November 2011
Morocco
Well, I made it to my destination and what a crazy day it was! Early start of 4:15 to get to the airport by 5:30, flight at 7:45. All good. I arrived in Marrakech on time and got through customs no problem. Got to an ATM and found the bus to take me to the train station. So far so good. I met a young man from USA who was also going to the train stn and even taking the same train but going to Rabat. As it happens when travelling, you become fast friends very quickly. When we got to the train stn, it was just before 1:00 and I thought I would have just enough time to get my ticket and get on the train. We were met by huge crowds lining up for tickets and the kind of chaos one finds in a busy, economically challenged city such as this.we got in line, knowing the next train was scheduled for 3:00 and I hoped it would be on time. In the line up, we met another young man from Belgium who was stopping in Casablanca and who could speak French as well. I decided to stick to him like glue. Turns out he was a very nice guy and he helped me out enormously. At 2:15, a porter started yelling and whistling for everyone to line up for the train. I thought this was a little odd but along came the train and Jerome, who has been here for a month, told me to get up to the front and push my way in. There were hundreds of people on the platform and I was feeling a little claustrophobic. There are compartments that hold 8 people comfortably but we had 12 in ours. The windows wouldn't open and it was very hot and stuffy. People kept crowding onto the train and here we waited until 3:00 when we finally started moving. It was interesting to see the Moroccans dressed in wool coats and many women in full burkas. I couldn't imagine how hot they must have been.
It became clear that I was not going to make it to my hotel by 6:00 so I asked Jerome to call my hotel (at £1.75 per min!) and leave a message for my tour leader that I would be late. We didn't get to Casablanca until nearly 8:00 and it was absolute madness getting off the train! There were people and baggage everywhere, even in the aisles and we had to step over them with our bags, shoving our way through out into the dark platform. I needed to negotiate the petit cab and again, Jerome came to the rescue. It was insane! No seatbelts and I prayed I would make it to the hotel alive. Jerome and I parted ways amidst the chaos and noise, having exchanged emails on the train. We lost Mike on the platform getting on the train and didn't see him again.
When I got to my hotel, everyone had gone out for dinner but the host didn't know where. He gave me directions to a nice restaurant "around the corner". I set out, acutely aware that I was a very White woman walking alone in a busy city and felt for the first time on my travels, a little nervous. A lot of men tried to speak to me but I ignored them and did not make eye contact, almost turning around, but I had not eaten since a coffee and yogurt at 6:30 this morning and was starving. I kept going and ended up at a really nice quiet place where I had a beautiful lamb and couscous dinner. The waiter spoke French and kept coming back to my table and kept repeating the words "après" and "bise". I finally figured it out - he wanted to meet me afterwards and kiss. Needless to say, I got the hell out of there fast and he followed me to my hotel - I think to make me think he was getting me there safely. I finally shook him off and got to my hotel safely. Eventually I met my team, briefly, and am now in my room, safe and sound and ready to explore Marrakech in the daytime!
It became clear that I was not going to make it to my hotel by 6:00 so I asked Jerome to call my hotel (at £1.75 per min!) and leave a message for my tour leader that I would be late. We didn't get to Casablanca until nearly 8:00 and it was absolute madness getting off the train! There were people and baggage everywhere, even in the aisles and we had to step over them with our bags, shoving our way through out into the dark platform. I needed to negotiate the petit cab and again, Jerome came to the rescue. It was insane! No seatbelts and I prayed I would make it to the hotel alive. Jerome and I parted ways amidst the chaos and noise, having exchanged emails on the train. We lost Mike on the platform getting on the train and didn't see him again.
When I got to my hotel, everyone had gone out for dinner but the host didn't know where. He gave me directions to a nice restaurant "around the corner". I set out, acutely aware that I was a very White woman walking alone in a busy city and felt for the first time on my travels, a little nervous. A lot of men tried to speak to me but I ignored them and did not make eye contact, almost turning around, but I had not eaten since a coffee and yogurt at 6:30 this morning and was starving. I kept going and ended up at a really nice quiet place where I had a beautiful lamb and couscous dinner. The waiter spoke French and kept coming back to my table and kept repeating the words "après" and "bise". I finally figured it out - he wanted to meet me afterwards and kiss. Needless to say, I got the hell out of there fast and he followed me to my hotel - I think to make me think he was getting me there safely. I finally shook him off and got to my hotel safely. Eventually I met my team, briefly, and am now in my room, safe and sound and ready to explore Marrakech in the daytime!
Saturday, 12 November 2011
More travels
I left Bournemouth today and made my way to Gatwick by bus and then train. Staying at a funky little hotel about 20 minutes away. When I say funky, I mean a bit weird. When I booked it online - looking for something really cheap but close to the airport with wifi and a restaurant - I got that, but the restaurant is a bar and the wifi can only be used in the bar or the lobby. I was looking forward to getting into bed and sending a bunch of emails and order room service. Oh well, it will have to do. I have to get the 5am shuttle as I have an early flight and easy jet can have a very long check in as they tend to check in all the flights from one desk.
Travelling alone again, I am looking forward to the next adventure and who I shall meet. I am a bit nervous as I have to fly to Marakech and then get a train to Casablanca where my tour starts. I need to get money at the airport in Marakech (it is not possible to obtain MAD money before arriving in the country). That will be the first challenge. Then I have to get a cab, negotiate the fare before I get in, and get to the train station where there are trains to Casablanca every hour. It should take about 3 hours and then another cab to the hotel hopefully before 6pm where I will meet my group. I hope they are as fun and nice as the group I travelled in Italy with 5 years ago.
Wish me luck!!
Keep reading, next post from Morocco!
Travelling alone again, I am looking forward to the next adventure and who I shall meet. I am a bit nervous as I have to fly to Marakech and then get a train to Casablanca where my tour starts. I need to get money at the airport in Marakech (it is not possible to obtain MAD money before arriving in the country). That will be the first challenge. Then I have to get a cab, negotiate the fare before I get in, and get to the train station where there are trains to Casablanca every hour. It should take about 3 hours and then another cab to the hotel hopefully before 6pm where I will meet my group. I hope they are as fun and nice as the group I travelled in Italy with 5 years ago.
Wish me luck!!
Keep reading, next post from Morocco!
Friday, 11 November 2011
11.11.11.
This just has to be an auspicious day. I can't help but think that there is something to it when the numbers line up like this. I wish I knew more about numerology, or astrology because I think it probably has some significance. For me, it is another day of possible adventure. My last day in Bournemouth and hoping for a long walk on the beach again. I have now been in England nearly 4 weeks (is it really 4 weeks since I left Spain??) and am starting to feel like I live here. What I love is the anonimity I experience every day. I walk down the street and know not a single soul. For some reason I like this. You can't beat the dairy here - cheese especially. Sarah, you would be in heaven, the aged white cheddar is to die for! I try not to eat it too often because, well, it's just not good to do that. This way, I can savour it when I do have it. I have mentioned my addiction to tea already and I indulge in that (as my aunt Susie and uncle Terry can attest to) as often as I like. I had a cadbury chocolate in Liverpool - another thing that seems to taste better than anywhere else, as do the toffees, which I have yet to indulge in. I love the old churches, cobblestones, narrow streets, and earthy, lush green that is evident only as a result of the rain and dampness. Oddly enough, it hasn't rained much but I'm told it will....
I am looking forward to my trip to Morocco. I am carrying my pack with only a few things - I now know how to pack light. It was more difficult to pack for this trip as I needed to have both warm things for my time in England as well as cool clothes for my trip to Morocco - all fitting into my little orange pack. I need to take a sleeping bag too which takes up a bit of space. I recently bought an iPad (I now understand the merits of it) and will try and write as often as I can depending of the availability of WiFi. I have just uploaded all my photos and will post them to FB in the next day or two. I continue to ache for Spain so have applied to volunteer for a week in Madrid teaching conversational English. It sounds great - they put you up in a nice place and you just have to have conversations with Spanish people who have learned English in a classroom setting, but need to practice their conversation skills. They pay for all your expenses and the only skill you require is to be able to talk to people. (Hehehehe)
Other than that, I am still exploring the idea of going to India for a few months. I don't feel ready to go home and feel that this time has been given to me and I must do something extraordinary with it. Time has a way of slipping by and I have become acutely aware of how much time can easily be wasted doing what we think we ought to do instead of taking a risk and doing what we really want to do.
Time will tell.
I am looking forward to my trip to Morocco. I am carrying my pack with only a few things - I now know how to pack light. It was more difficult to pack for this trip as I needed to have both warm things for my time in England as well as cool clothes for my trip to Morocco - all fitting into my little orange pack. I need to take a sleeping bag too which takes up a bit of space. I recently bought an iPad (I now understand the merits of it) and will try and write as often as I can depending of the availability of WiFi. I have just uploaded all my photos and will post them to FB in the next day or two. I continue to ache for Spain so have applied to volunteer for a week in Madrid teaching conversational English. It sounds great - they put you up in a nice place and you just have to have conversations with Spanish people who have learned English in a classroom setting, but need to practice their conversation skills. They pay for all your expenses and the only skill you require is to be able to talk to people. (Hehehehe)
Other than that, I am still exploring the idea of going to India for a few months. I don't feel ready to go home and feel that this time has been given to me and I must do something extraordinary with it. Time has a way of slipping by and I have become acutely aware of how much time can easily be wasted doing what we think we ought to do instead of taking a risk and doing what we really want to do.
Time will tell.
Thursday, 10 November 2011
Bournemouth
I am now in Bournemouth, on the south coast of England staying with my mom's eldest sister Jennifer. It is a very beautiful place - isn't it always beautiful by the sea? I decided that I needed a long walk yesterday so took the bus down into the town square and walked down to the pier. It was windy, but not too cold and the sea was rough and alive. I walked for a couple of hours, over to the other pier. I walked up the windy zig zag path that goes up to the road and didn't even feel out of breath, so I did it again! The sea front is lined with tiny little beach huts in matching colours. For instance, there will be a block of about 10 in all the hues of blue, and then another one in yellows. They are great and I want to paint them someday. I had a cup of tea in a cafe on the seafront and made my way back to the town square to wander around the shops.
Speaking of painting....I went to my aunt's art class with her today and did a watercolour painting. It was absolutely awful, but it was fun and I learned how to use frisket. The teacher was great and inspired me to do a class....someday. Maybe. I come from a long line of true artists and I must say they are all rather intimidating.
Tomorrow Jen and and I are going to meet Mary, the daughter of my late grandfather's brother George for lunch. She lives in Poole and Jen sees her regularly.
On Saturday I go back to London and will fly out to Marrakech early Sunday morning. Stay tuned for adventures in Morocco!
Speaking of painting....I went to my aunt's art class with her today and did a watercolour painting. It was absolutely awful, but it was fun and I learned how to use frisket. The teacher was great and inspired me to do a class....someday. Maybe. I come from a long line of true artists and I must say they are all rather intimidating.
Tomorrow Jen and and I are going to meet Mary, the daughter of my late grandfather's brother George for lunch. She lives in Poole and Jen sees her regularly.
On Saturday I go back to London and will fly out to Marrakech early Sunday morning. Stay tuned for adventures in Morocco!
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