Today was the day I climbed the next big mountain. Acutally, I decided to do most of it yesterday and the rest today, but it seemed like the climbs would never end today. La Faba turned out to be a really great place - a tiny hamlet, high in the mountains run by a German confraternity. Nice and clean and a big kitchen to cook in. I am travelling with another group of people and I particularly like Arlene, from Bristol who I have befriended. She is about my age and we seem to have a lot in common. She has made me feel very welcome. There were about 15 people who pooled our resources and cooked a huge pot of pasta and a risotto. Plenty of wine, and lots of laughs. At 8:00, there was a special service at the little church for all the pilgrims so I decided to go. A franciscan brother led the service and a woman translated in German and English. He lit a candle lantern and pàssed it around, telling us to think of somone or something that was special and important to us on the Camino. It was very moving as the lights were dim and it was completely quiet. He then washed the feet of one of the pilgrims and asked her to wash the feet of another, and so on. It was very special. After that, he did a blessing and we all stood around the alter together. It made me realize that though we come from so many different countries, on the Camino, we are all the same. I think of this quite often. He left us with this thought: "if you go home and merely tell stories about your experiences on the Camino, you haven't really done the Camino. You have to change something and keep it with you forever". I will think about this as I keep walking.
There are people waiting to use the computer so I will sign off for now.....and take a rest.
Thursday, 6 October 2011
Tuesday, 4 October 2011
Oh the shame...!!!!!
After I had a shower I took out my sleeping bag and laid it out on my bed. I decided to have a little rest for half and hour and then went out to sit at a cafe and write. I met some new people and we were chatting when I found a bunch of little itchy bumps on my shoulder. I got Gerry (from Ireland) to have a look and he said he thought it was what I dreaded it to be. Yes. I have bed bugs. Gerry and I came back to the albergue, my head hung in shame, admitting to my haeneous crime. The young man and woman who run the place gave me two big plastic bags and told me to pack up everything that can be washed and bring it down to the laundry. Everyone in the dorm was looking at me and I felt so embarassed. God Bless Gerry, who came with me and helped me. I have to have everything washed, even what I am wearing and it will cost me 5 euros per load! They can´t wash my pack but they can spray it with something. I feel like my whole body is covered in bites (it isn´t) and that there are bugs crawling all over me (there aren´t). Now I have to hang around here until some clothes are ready for me to wear.
I feel like crying.....but I´m not going to.
This too, shall pass.
I feel like crying.....but I´m not going to.
This too, shall pass.
Bed bugs.....?
I have some red spots on my arms and am wondering if they are bed bugs. Not itchy, but quite red. I will air out my sleeping bag and wash everything in my pack in a machine. I have checked all my stuff and don´t see any sign of any black dots so I´m hoping it is just the sun. Yesterday the temperature was 34 degrees in Ponferrada. I decided to stay there because there is a medieval castle (1200ad) and I really wanted to go through it. I totally forgot that on Mondays everything is closed in Spain and since I never know what day of the week it is, I didn´t get to go in. I was quite disappointed so when into yet another cathedral. The one in Ponferrada is quite special as it has very strong links to the Templar knights and has attained the lofty status of a Basillica. It was quite beautiful, but not so grand as others I have seen.
I walked 26km today to Villafranca, just at the foot of the next mountain to climb - O´Cebrera. Tomorrow is supposed to be over 30km to the top but there are a few little villages before that which I think I will consider. I read that O´Cebrera is not a great place to stay and this will shorten the walk a little and since it is all uphill, will be quite hard. I am realizing how strong I am getting as the hills are so easy for me now and I can keep my regular pace. I stop often to take photos and breathe......
On the other side of the mountain, I leave the province of Castille d´Leon and enter Galecia. Apparently, this is where there is a very good white wine - Albarino - which you must eat with octopus. My friend Juan Jo from Spain has been a good guide and translator for me. I met him yesterday and we are having dinner again together tonight. Again, I pledge to learn Spanish!
Most of the time I walk alone. I prefer it right now as I am needing to let my thoughts be what they are. After leaving the meseta, I am enjoying being in the mountains again. So many people complained about the meseta but for me it was a rich and beautiful time. I believe the transition is necessary to the process of the Camino and I am so happy I was able to do it all at once.
There are very few people I know now as I am either ahead of or behind the people I originally started out with. I met two Polish men today and they were fascinated that I had come from so far away and all alone.
My boots and my feet seem to have made peace with each other and most of my blisters are healed. This is a great blessing as I realize how much harder it was to walk now that they are better. I bless them every morning.
Now, two people waiting for the computer so I must close.
Love to all
J
I walked 26km today to Villafranca, just at the foot of the next mountain to climb - O´Cebrera. Tomorrow is supposed to be over 30km to the top but there are a few little villages before that which I think I will consider. I read that O´Cebrera is not a great place to stay and this will shorten the walk a little and since it is all uphill, will be quite hard. I am realizing how strong I am getting as the hills are so easy for me now and I can keep my regular pace. I stop often to take photos and breathe......
On the other side of the mountain, I leave the province of Castille d´Leon and enter Galecia. Apparently, this is where there is a very good white wine - Albarino - which you must eat with octopus. My friend Juan Jo from Spain has been a good guide and translator for me. I met him yesterday and we are having dinner again together tonight. Again, I pledge to learn Spanish!
Most of the time I walk alone. I prefer it right now as I am needing to let my thoughts be what they are. After leaving the meseta, I am enjoying being in the mountains again. So many people complained about the meseta but for me it was a rich and beautiful time. I believe the transition is necessary to the process of the Camino and I am so happy I was able to do it all at once.
There are very few people I know now as I am either ahead of or behind the people I originally started out with. I met two Polish men today and they were fascinated that I had come from so far away and all alone.
My boots and my feet seem to have made peace with each other and most of my blisters are healed. This is a great blessing as I realize how much harder it was to walk now that they are better. I bless them every morning.
Now, two people waiting for the computer so I must close.
Love to all
J
Sunday, 2 October 2011
In the Mountains again
So I am once again in the mountains and today was at the highest point I will get to on the Camino - 1505m. The views were indescribable. I stayed in Foncebadon last night, a funky little place only 2km from the Cruz de Ferro. My plan was to leave in the morning and get to the cross at sunrise. Didn´t work out exactly as planned, but it was perfect in the end. I left my stone, sat on the rocks and thought about the "burden" I was leaving there. My thoughts at that point are very personal so won´t put them down here, but know that it was an emotional and profound moment in my journey.
After that I carried on to the top and then began the decsent down to the next village - Acebo. When you are walking, and if you are able to stay present you don´t think about what is coming. All of a sudden, you turn a corner or crest a hill and you see the inevitable church steeple, telling you that you have arrived in the next village. It was hard going down the mountain (only half way down) as it was a very steep and rocky path. When I got to the village, I sat down and had a glass of fresh squeezed orange juice and sat on the patio. The views were stunning and I am so happy to be in the mountains. The air is clear and fresh. And then I saw the sign for rooms and made the decision to stop here. In doing so, I know I will leave the people I have met recently, but it´s okay. I feel like having more alone time.
I passed a sign today that said 222km to Santiago. When I looked at this, I realized that I have walked over 500kms! I am strong, yes I am! I am doing something really amazing and brave and I realize that it took a lot of guts for me to do this on my own. So many people questioned my decision to do this alone. The fact is, you are never really alone. There are people ahead of me, behind me, and sometimes beside me. And this is much like my life. I walk alone, but amidst much love from all the people who believe in me and honor who I am. I am choosing to slow down so as to be in the mountains a little bit longer. Tomorrow it is a short day - only about 22km to Ponferrada.
So here I am, sitting in a little hostel with a room that is clean, comfortable and all mine! The sun is shining, my clothes are drying and I´ve had a cervesa con limonada on the patio. A little luxury for a humble pelegrino who desperately needs to shave her legs!
After that I carried on to the top and then began the decsent down to the next village - Acebo. When you are walking, and if you are able to stay present you don´t think about what is coming. All of a sudden, you turn a corner or crest a hill and you see the inevitable church steeple, telling you that you have arrived in the next village. It was hard going down the mountain (only half way down) as it was a very steep and rocky path. When I got to the village, I sat down and had a glass of fresh squeezed orange juice and sat on the patio. The views were stunning and I am so happy to be in the mountains. The air is clear and fresh. And then I saw the sign for rooms and made the decision to stop here. In doing so, I know I will leave the people I have met recently, but it´s okay. I feel like having more alone time.
I passed a sign today that said 222km to Santiago. When I looked at this, I realized that I have walked over 500kms! I am strong, yes I am! I am doing something really amazing and brave and I realize that it took a lot of guts for me to do this on my own. So many people questioned my decision to do this alone. The fact is, you are never really alone. There are people ahead of me, behind me, and sometimes beside me. And this is much like my life. I walk alone, but amidst much love from all the people who believe in me and honor who I am. I am choosing to slow down so as to be in the mountains a little bit longer. Tomorrow it is a short day - only about 22km to Ponferrada.
So here I am, sitting in a little hostel with a room that is clean, comfortable and all mine! The sun is shining, my clothes are drying and I´ve had a cervesa con limonada on the patio. A little luxury for a humble pelegrino who desperately needs to shave her legs!
Friday, 30 September 2011
Astorga
I am staying at an Albergue that holds about 125 people. I´ve managed to get into a semi private room with 3 other women so it should be a quiet night. This is a great city but because I didn´t arrive until later today, had very little time to explore. It was a 32km day and the last 3km was gruelling in the 32degrees heat. I had dinner at a fancy hotel with my friend Eric, a singer-dancer from NYC. He thinks I´m FABULOUS! We had a nice evening together and he is determined to be in Santiago for my birthday.
So many amazing people I have met. Two nights ago I ran into a couple from Vernon BC whom I had met earlier on. They are really nice but I hadn´t had a chance to spend much time with them until the other night. Linda shared that her camino is about grieving the loss of her son less than a year ago. She told the story of his sudden illness and death and that he was 41 and left behind a wife and three young children. She cried openly and I so appreciated her sharing her grief. It made me think of my mom and how strong she is and how much she would have been able to relate to this woman.
I am finding that we get very close very quickly with people and you take the moment you have because you may never see this person again. It is a rich and beautiful experience.
Tomorrow I go to Rabanal, only 21km. I am considering going a bit further as the next day is 31km and is up to the Cruz de Ferra, the place where I will leave my stone.
I feel good. Blessed. Happy.
So many amazing people I have met. Two nights ago I ran into a couple from Vernon BC whom I had met earlier on. They are really nice but I hadn´t had a chance to spend much time with them until the other night. Linda shared that her camino is about grieving the loss of her son less than a year ago. She told the story of his sudden illness and death and that he was 41 and left behind a wife and three young children. She cried openly and I so appreciated her sharing her grief. It made me think of my mom and how strong she is and how much she would have been able to relate to this woman.
I am finding that we get very close very quickly with people and you take the moment you have because you may never see this person again. It is a rich and beautiful experience.
Tomorrow I go to Rabanal, only 21km. I am considering going a bit further as the next day is 31km and is up to the Cruz de Ferra, the place where I will leave my stone.
I feel good. Blessed. Happy.
Thursday, 29 September 2011
Leon
Last night I decided to stay at the Alburgue run by the nuns. It was interesting. Normally, you have to be in by 10pm but this one was 9:30. It was a very crowded and busy place and I got a bed on the bottom bunk. I heard a lot of people talking about bed bugs but they had fumigated the place that day so I was´nt too worried. I got myself ready for bed and then all of a sudden a little nun came through the place clapping her hands and telling everyone to come with her. I got out of bed, threw on my shorts and followed, no idea what was happening. We all filed into a small room for evening prayers and there were little books in all different languages so we could follow along. This took about 20 minutes and I thought we were done. Then, she opened two big doors that led into the church and we all filed in. I sat near the front and as is common in some of these old churches, there is a space at the front separated by iron gates where the clergy or nuns sit. All of a sudden, about 20 nuns filed in 2 or three at a time, like penguins. They were so cute! They began the evening prayers in Spanish, or latin I think and I just listened and enjoyed the warm feeling of the moment. Then one of the older nuns began to sing. It was so beautiful as she had a clear and perfect voice. It brought tears to my eyes and I just embraced it all. After that, there were a few more prayers, lots of standing up and stitting down, and then a woman who worked there came to the front and named the countries of all the pilgrims that night. There must have been 25 different countries! At the end, there was the pilgrim blessing, wishing us a good journey to Santiago. It was beautiful. The other good thing about this albergue was that the men and women were separated and even though there were 30 or 40 people in my room, there was NO Snoring!! I had a pretty good sleep.
I´ve discovered that my least favourite part of this whole thing is going into and leaving a big city. Sometimes it takes 1-2 hours. Leon was not well signed and I really had to pay attention and look at a map. Because it is now dark until nearly 8am, it is impossible to do this in the light of day. Anyway, I made it out onto the quiet road and walked a mere 23km today.
Since I spent a day in Leon, I have lost my original travel group for the most part. I have met new people already and feel okay about spending some time alone now. Tomorrow is a long day - 32 km to Astorga, a slightly bigger city.
I am more than half way to my destination and am considering walking to Finisterra, another 100km if all is well. We´ll see when I get to Santiago.
Tonight I am staying at a private Albergue for 7 euros and 9 euros for a delicious home cooked meal. I ate together with new people, Rudy, Guillia, and a German guy whose name I can't remember, and it was nice. Salad, squash soup, and paella. I think I will go to bed early and make a start around 7am. Blisters are healing, new ones cropping up....this is how it is meant to be for me.
I hope all is well with you all at home,
Jena
I´ve discovered that my least favourite part of this whole thing is going into and leaving a big city. Sometimes it takes 1-2 hours. Leon was not well signed and I really had to pay attention and look at a map. Because it is now dark until nearly 8am, it is impossible to do this in the light of day. Anyway, I made it out onto the quiet road and walked a mere 23km today.
Since I spent a day in Leon, I have lost my original travel group for the most part. I have met new people already and feel okay about spending some time alone now. Tomorrow is a long day - 32 km to Astorga, a slightly bigger city.
I am more than half way to my destination and am considering walking to Finisterra, another 100km if all is well. We´ll see when I get to Santiago.
Tonight I am staying at a private Albergue for 7 euros and 9 euros for a delicious home cooked meal. I ate together with new people, Rudy, Guillia, and a German guy whose name I can't remember, and it was nice. Salad, squash soup, and paella. I think I will go to bed early and make a start around 7am. Blisters are healing, new ones cropping up....this is how it is meant to be for me.
I hope all is well with you all at home,
Jena
Wednesday, 28 September 2011
I cán´t say enough about OLIVES!
Now that I am resting in Leon, I have a little more time to write. There is an internet cafe with lots of computers and no one breathing down my neck. I´m hearing that a lot of people are unable to leave comments on the blog. If anyone can post something about how to do it, that would be great. Robbie....?
It is so good to hear from you all....encouraging words that make me feel more connected to home. I generally know what time it is but have no idea what day or date it is. I just know I´ve been walking for about 20 days.
Last night I stayed un a luxurious hotel with my two Belgian friends, Francis and Roger. Only on the Camino is it okay to spend the night with two men I didn´t know until I started this journey! I had a the greatest luxury of a bubble bath, completely losing myself in the warmth, smell and the clean white towels. Bliss! We met some other friends from California for dinner as it was R & F´s last night. I think they will complete it next year. Strange to be so connected to people you never knew before and know that you may never see them again. Never say never....
I am staying in the Albergue tonight, again sleeping with 20 or so people. This one is by donation and run by the nuns. They do a beautiful evening service and pray for all the Pilgrims (Pelegrinos). Tomorrow I will walk again and I think it is a long one, about 28kms. Working our way back into the mountains and perhaps a change in weather. It continues to be beautiful and sunny every day.
The food in Spain is interesting. I eat olives every day, sometimes even for breakfast. They are so good!! I bought a small bag this morning at the market and I think they were the best ones yet, so I went back and bought more! I am always thinking about what I must carry in my pack. Even the smallest items can add up and believe it or not, I feel the difference. I am getting a little tired of the Pelegrino menu: as it is always the same no matter the city or town, but only costs 9 or 10 euros and includes all the wine you want to drink. You have a choice between Pasta, ensalada mixta, garlic soup and maybe asparagus for your starter and then meat, fish, or eggs for your main. Every dish comes with french fries. I have found a nice change is to go for tapas and share with other people. It´s enough food and is almost always good. Beyond that, I take some fruit and yogurt drink on the road and usually drink a beer when I get myself settled in my place.
The church in Leon is magnificent. I went in briefly yesterday when I arrived and will go back in today. Therey are countless outside cafe´s surrounding the square where one can sit and drink, read, write, and watch people. This will be my afternoon and then an early night and hopefully not too many snoring people!!
Since I am staying a day in Leon, I will lose track of some of the people I have been travelling with but I´m sure I will meet more. Seems that is my way.
Will write again soon.
PS. Did I mention the olives.....???
It is so good to hear from you all....encouraging words that make me feel more connected to home. I generally know what time it is but have no idea what day or date it is. I just know I´ve been walking for about 20 days.
Last night I stayed un a luxurious hotel with my two Belgian friends, Francis and Roger. Only on the Camino is it okay to spend the night with two men I didn´t know until I started this journey! I had a the greatest luxury of a bubble bath, completely losing myself in the warmth, smell and the clean white towels. Bliss! We met some other friends from California for dinner as it was R & F´s last night. I think they will complete it next year. Strange to be so connected to people you never knew before and know that you may never see them again. Never say never....
I am staying in the Albergue tonight, again sleeping with 20 or so people. This one is by donation and run by the nuns. They do a beautiful evening service and pray for all the Pilgrims (Pelegrinos). Tomorrow I will walk again and I think it is a long one, about 28kms. Working our way back into the mountains and perhaps a change in weather. It continues to be beautiful and sunny every day.
The food in Spain is interesting. I eat olives every day, sometimes even for breakfast. They are so good!! I bought a small bag this morning at the market and I think they were the best ones yet, so I went back and bought more! I am always thinking about what I must carry in my pack. Even the smallest items can add up and believe it or not, I feel the difference. I am getting a little tired of the Pelegrino menu: as it is always the same no matter the city or town, but only costs 9 or 10 euros and includes all the wine you want to drink. You have a choice between Pasta, ensalada mixta, garlic soup and maybe asparagus for your starter and then meat, fish, or eggs for your main. Every dish comes with french fries. I have found a nice change is to go for tapas and share with other people. It´s enough food and is almost always good. Beyond that, I take some fruit and yogurt drink on the road and usually drink a beer when I get myself settled in my place.
The church in Leon is magnificent. I went in briefly yesterday when I arrived and will go back in today. Therey are countless outside cafe´s surrounding the square where one can sit and drink, read, write, and watch people. This will be my afternoon and then an early night and hopefully not too many snoring people!!
Since I am staying a day in Leon, I will lose track of some of the people I have been travelling with but I´m sure I will meet more. Seems that is my way.
Will write again soon.
PS. Did I mention the olives.....???
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